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The main issue with GU10 in my experience is that when one or two fail you discover that make and model are no longer made or no longer identical. The other issue is that I much prefer wide beam angle bulbs >90 degrees and most companies seem to be moving to narrower angles like 36 degrees. In my opinion this makes them too spotty and not uniform enough. If that trend continues flat panels will be a better bet for many applications if not already.

I'm thinking handles for shopping baskets and trolleys are going to be a risk for virus spread. Ditto petrol pump handles. Not yet but if this thing really gets going in the UK.

Crazy thought but would a crane make sense? Eg to lift skips over neighbors property?

I agree with Russell. It would take too long picking up dirt with the shovel. I reckon much quicker to get the digger to load it/them and you could probably fill them better as well. Is there no way to make it wider even temporarily? The thing I hired was more like a Thwaites 1 ton dumper... http://www.thwaitesdumpers.co.uk/PDFLibrary/Sales lit UK/201 - 1 Tonne Hi-Tip - UK.pdf

Our council is consulting on new Planning Application validation check lists. I see that for all Full Planning Applications.. "where there is a potential adverse impact upon the current levels of sunlight/daylight of adjoining properties and/or of future occupiers of the proposed development" ...you must provide a "Sunlight Indicator Test". They provide a link to this page at the BRE and a £55 book... https://www.bregroup.com/services/testing/indoor-environment-testing/natural-light/ I think a significant percentage of new houses/self builds have some potential to impact "current levels of sunlight/daylight of adjoining properties". In the past Planning Officers would assess an application and request more information, reports or studies. Now it seems you have to do one for even minor adverse impacts that do not come close to affecting someones right to light. Searching the BRE website for "Sunlight Indicator Test" finds no matches. Google isn't much more helpful. Anyone know if this is a simple exercise that you can complete yourself or a massive bill from a consultant?

Certainly think he has double counted labour. When we built our house we had a similar crew, site foreman and two others. Those two others wern't the same two every day but we rarely had more than three people on site on average. For example I bet those two labourers will be the same two that take up the patio. Likewise when excavating the site foreman acted as banksman/lookout. I suspect this is how he hides his profit. He's given what looks like a detailed breakdown but where is his profit :-) Im sure he's not aiming to break even. Some things he's charging hire for I suspect he owns. How many builders don't have a site van and WC? Ours had his own telehandler. Ok so you don't get them free, I would expect him to charge for wear and tear rather than full rental value? £550 to install two padstones? Only 100mm PIR in the roof? Get other quotes. Don't show them this one.

I couldn't immediately think where you would do that? I mean if you have a pipe run that descends vertically, then goes horizontally (with a fall), then descends vertically again you need two 92.5 degree bends not one of each. Perhaps if you were going around three sides of a building?

Can you go bigger? Those may carry 1000kg weight but the volume capacity is typically 250-400L depending on model and if the soil is level or heaped. If you really have 100m^3 to move that would be 200-400 trips.

Our builder provided a shed like building as a site van. Just a table in it and a porta loo round the back. No chairs, no heating etc When I commented that it wasn't very luxurious he said it was deliberate, didn't want people getting too comfortable in it or no work would get done when he's off site.

Welcome to the forum.

Stacks don't have to be 110mm.... The approved document has a table that specifies the Stack Diameter required for different Flow rates. The minimum size in the table is 50mm as I recall. The top ventilated part has even less flow (none!) so presumably can be 50mm.

And I recommend buying enough to make up a small sample panel first before buying loads.

Does it still provide the "clear opening width" to allow someone to escape through it - building regs issue? There is also a minimum sill height rule to stop people falling out.

Shouldn't really be on the same dimmer. Light dimmers aren't rated for driving motors although they may do so.

Not 5% any more? https://www.tileenergy.uk/huge-vat-increase-on-solar-batteries Currently, new Solar PV system with Battery installations attract just 5% VAT, acting as a great incentive for our customers. However, this is due to come to an end in October 2019. On Monday 24th June HMRC put forward new legislation to increase the VAT on home solar battery systems from 5% to 20%. This was voted on by parliament, accepted into law on June 25th and this increase is likely to come in to effect on October 1st, 2019. When challenged, HMRC blamed EU regulations because they “rule out preferential VAT rates for energy saving equipment under state aid rules and whilst an EU member our rights and obligations remain unchanged” What this is likely to mean is a significant price increase on your Solar battery. What is galling is that VAT on coal used as a domestic fuel remains at 5%. However, you can beat the increase by getting your order in now. All you have to do is get in touch with Tile Energy on 01793 287777 or info@tileenergy/uk

Sounds like it's doable. We have a public footpath near and across our land and someone pointed out you aren't allowed to drive vehicles over a public footpath unless you have a right of way. It didn't cause us too many issues in the end, although footpath officer said he wouldn't divert it to a new route until the grass seed we had laid had grown. So we turfed it and told him it grew overnight.

Some BCO provide this advice of a version of same.. https://www.eden.gov.uk/planning-and-building/building-control/building-control-guidance-notes/roof-ventilation/

Some dimmers have a minimum load specified. When incandescent bulbs are replaced with LED the load is reduced and can fall below the minimum specified for the dimmer. Adding the fan takes the load back above the minimum specified but is not an acceptable solution. Use a proper LED dimmer for the lights and move the fan to another switch. This might be possible using a modular/Grid faceplate (eg dimmer and switch on one face plate) but depends where the fan is connected to the lighting circuit. or just replace the dimmer with a switch as others have suggested.

I recently fitted one of these dimmers.. https://www.medlocks.co.uk/zano-zmo150-led-dimmer-switch-digital-150w-module-only-white Its just a dimmer module, I used my existing face plate and knob. Zano make a range.. https://zanocontrols.co.uk/ https://www.medlocks.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=zano PS It won't cope with a fan though.

I don't envy you. Are they public footpaths? Some things also appear incompatible with each other such as.. Normally to protect trees you can't dig at all. I think that's probably the best route but you will probably need something bigger than a mini digger. Hammer in some posts and use a water level or laser to put marks on them, then tell them to excavate until its ?cm below the top of the posts. When level set out for the piling. Perhaps pay the engineer to make a few site visits to check before piling and before pouring? I used a hired dumper truck to transport ready mix concrete around our site which worked ok provided you drove slowly. Perhaps work out how many trips up and down the path you would have to make to move 100 cubic meters. Are neighbours going to complain? The problem might not be digging but loading the muck away lorries. Is there space near the road to put a massive pile of dirt so you can use same digger to load the muck away lorry when it come to collect? How long are the paths? Can you pump concrete that far?

Based on what you have said so far.. You would be liable for the CIL if it applies in your area. Only Self Builders are exempt. You wouldn't be eligible for the Self Build VAT reclaim scheme, but any services should still be zero rated to you. Likewise any materials purchased by a contractor doing "supply and fit" should also be zero rated to you (but it can be hard to convince some trades that this is true as they have paid VAT on the materials). Only things you buy yourself would have VAT on them that wouldn't be reclaimable. Some things like tool hire will also have VAT on them but that's not reclaimable by anyone. The project maybe liable for Capital Gains Tax on any profit over your exemption. However if this project is your main source of income you might be liable for Income tax instead. If selling within 10 years the buyer will expect a 10 year warrant. I don't know what hoops a Ltd Company has to go through to provide one. I doubt a Ltd Company can buy the same policies that a self builder can. The optimal route would probably be to have a change of plan and decide to build a house for yourself to live in. You would potentially need to live there for at least three years to avoid the CIL. A shorter period to avoid CGT. What matters to HMRC are your intentions at the outset. See what your tax advisor says and then make a decision and ensure everything you do is consistent with that decision. eg Don't tell HMRC its a self build and at the same time apply for a business loan. You should also work out if you can actually make any money building the house. We purchased our plot from a builder who was selling it because he didn't think he could make any more money by actually building the house. We got the PP revised and built something better. We have a great house but I don't think we made/saved any money.

Pretty clearly there is a leak somewhere if its loosing pressure with no water coming out of the PRV. If Worcester Bosch can't find anything wrong with the boiler try feeling around every joint and connection you can find on the system looking for drops of water, everything should be bone dry. If you can't find anything I'd tell the landlord it needs a heating engineer to isolate parts of the system and do pressure checks to find the leak. Each section might take 24 hours so it's not going to be quick process. Just needs someone who is methodical and can work a problem logically. The issue with not being able to fully switch off the system at night should be easy to fix but the landlord may argue its working as designed.

Are your surnames the same for both plots?

Didn't know you spoke German.

The EU have 100 degrees in a right angle so you get these odd half degree amounts when you do the conversion to "imperial degrees".