Temp

Well you never know.. https://cornishstuff.com/2019/09/17/lithium/ "This week MetAmpere, the first company to drill lithium exploration holes in the UK, described their test results from Cornwall as “staggeringly good”.

Obviously you couldn't just bend the black bit upwards to raise it 45mm but would a 15 degree bend get nearer or is it too much? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-single-socket-bend-15-110mm/69177?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700020972856688&gclsrc=aw.ds&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6sHzBRCbARIsAF8FMpWokdAwAdUbePMS7aWxbcygv6Ii3EhMTpDNsX8-T5Mz9CcMwqs7G5IaAu1lEALw_wcB

I've got mostly minor DIY scars. Worst was when I fell off a ladder. I landed on a wood floor and was lying there unscathed, happy I had missed my tool box and thinking I'd had a lucky escape... when the ladder fell on me.

+1 We have a mixture but in some rooms we have 80mm PIR insulation and about 60mm screed with UFH. Wish we had more insulation. Our favourite rooms have 21mm engineered oak flooring on battens with PIR between and no screed. The top layer of PIR has foiled covered grooves for the pipes that spread the heat. A system like that would allow a greater depth of insulation.

Google found.. https://cableductuk.com/700series.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpLfzBRCRARIsAHuj6qUTH6BdbeW5nGHVzZkM3BUnj4kD9oj_oCCIZok8hdaCzextaqjpfcMaAvFBEALw_wcB

Battens worked for me but I wasn't putting the tray in a recess. I think straps might be the way to go as @Onoff suggested. Would an engine hoist work?

+1 Howmany air bricks are there? If you have several along that side of the house I doubt it would cause any problems if that one was blocked, perhaps by filling the "trench" with large decorative stones or a planter box.

That's what slip couplers are for :-)

If you can't concrete it now how about a large thick tarp? Put some blocks on it to stop it blowing away.

Well this was a long cup of coffee... It's common to try and exclude consequential loss but my understanding is it may only be enforceable with business customers unless the contract was specifically negotiated with you rather then being standard T&Cs. I believe you, being a "consumer customer", also have statutory rights under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 in that excluding consequential loss probably amounts to an unfair contract. https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/somethings-gone-wrong-with-a-purchase/claim-compensation-if-an-item-or-product-causes-damage/ https://www.consumercouncil.org.uk/sites/default/files/2019-09/A_Guide_To_Consumer_Law_for_Businesses.PDF https://www.squirepattonboggs.com/~/media/files/insights/publications/2015/10/the-consumer-rights-act-how-does-it-impact-on-brand-owners/cra-article-for-consumer-brands-alert.pdf https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/450440/Unfair_Terms_Main_Guidance.pdf Reading on it appears they believe the exclusions of unforeseeable consequences would be ok but the exclusion of foreseeable ones would be unfair. If that gets raised I'd argue that the consequences of a leak were reasonably foreseeable by both parties! So looks like a pretty certain that a consequential loss exclusion is unfair when the buyer is a consumer. I'd get quotes for the repairs and send them a letter asking them to pay up before you do any work. Point out that clauses in contracts with consumers which use terms like "consequential loss" are considered unfair. I believe you have to give them the opportunity to fix it before you can get it done yourself by a third party and claim compensation. Give them a two week deadline to respond? You could probably also claim for your time locating the source of the leak but I think I would just point out that that by taking action to promptly identify the source of the leak, and removing sodden insulation yourself, you have minimised the possible damage and the cost to the rooflight company. I've also been reading something about the Alternative Dispute Resolution (ADR) Directive which provides an alternative to court action. I think TrustMark is an ADR provider. Perhaps find out if the rooflight co is a member and involve them?

Bottom up. Ideally start from the sewer in the road (at least on paper so you know how high the rest bend at the bottom of the stack must be to get the correct falls all the way to the sewer).

Oh bother, I didn't spot that bit.

For the drainage stuff you may need to lift manholes in the road to find out how deep the sewers are. Then make a drawing working back to your house accounting for the fall in each length of pipe to calculate the invert level for each inspection chamber. For example if the sewer connection was 2m below reference level and the nearest IC on your plot was 40m away the bottom of the IC would be calculated as.. 1:80 fall over 40m = 0.5m so the IC would be set at 2m - 0.5m = 1.5m below reference (Thats not necessarily 1.5m below ground because the ground may slope). Repeat for each IC untill you get to the bottom of the stack.

I missed it but thought on the news it said businesses could defer rates for 3 months or something like that.

PS: Latest cylinder connectors have large knobs so no spanner required.

We have that set up. A Brittania dual fuel range with gas hob on a pair of 47kg cylinders, family of four. Works very well. One cylinder lasts 18 months at least. I was thinking of using smaller cylinders but someone here pointed out that they may not be able to deliver the gas flow rate required when multiple rings in use. Our cylinders are located about 40m (yes forty meters) from the cooker in a cabinet behind the garage. We used several lengths of plastic coated copper pipe designed for the purpose. I think the connections were gas compression fittings, pressure tested and then wrapped in Denso tape before being buried in the ground. Indoors we laid the pipe in the floor insulation (we have beam and block with insulation and UFH in screed in kitchen). We used one length of pipe indoors so no joints under floor screed. We only used a duct pipe through the foundations. To pressure test you turn off the valve at cooker end. Fit a regulator and cylinder in the cabinet. The regulator has a gauge on it. Open the gas valve on the cylinder to pressurise the pipe run then close it again. Pressure gauge should remain stable for at least 24 hours. Metal cabinets for gas cylinders are expensive for what they are. Ours is designed for 47kg cylinders but it's only just tall enough and has a fixed roof. It's a pain to wrestle the cylinder into place through the door and connect it up. See if you can find one with a hinged roof as well or at least plenty tall so you can get your arms in there. I've recently changed to much longer hoses (4ft) between regulator and cylinder so I can connect it up outside the cabinet then shove it into place. 47kg cylinders are heavy even on a sack trolley. Avoid steps between car parking and cabinet if possible. You can get them delivered but that might be more expensive. I've always collected mine but you need something to stop the cylinder rolling around and protection for the lip of the boot when dragging it in and out. Two man job really.

+1 Even a 60mm diameter pipe would be better than nothing. When you have the second course built and its set up good, wait till he's gone to work, drop in the pipe and cover it up with gravel and soil.

Google found underwater mortar but no idea how readily available it is... https://rotafix.co.uk/products/masonry-repairs/rotafix-underwater-applied-mortar/ Rotafix Under Water Mortar powder is a blend of special cement powders, high quality graded sand, and a unique combination of polymers and admixtures. The powder, when mixed with water, produces a mortar which is wash-out resistant and waterproof. The ready to use mortar powders are packaged in 25kg moisture proof durable bags and have a shelf life of 2 years. https://www.epoxyproducts.co.uk/Epoxy%20Mortar%20Underwater%20482015.pdf EPOXY MORTAR—UNDERWATER Is for use in exceptionally wet conditions and for underwater applications. For fixing slip bricks and reinstating structures exposed to heavy battering from sea, such as sea walls and jetties. For repairing submerged concrete. I'd do my best to eliminate the water and leave gaps in that first course so any can drain to your side rather than build up.

I don't know about Scotland but in England a loft conversion can turn a two storey house into a three storey house and the rules for fire doors and fire resistance of walls is different for three storey houses. Sometimes the stair well on the ground floor has to be upgraded by doubling up plasterboard. Check with the BCO but if you only need FD30 doors then you can get some pretty nice looking cottage oak doors these days.. https://www.doorsandfloors.co.uk/woodland-oak-ledge-and-brace-fd30-fire-doors.html https://greentreedoors.co.uk/product/oak-mexicana-fd30-internal-fire-door/

Why do they say solvent weld should be avoided below ground on this one?.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-long-radius-bend-87-5-110mm/81100

Some grey and black solvent weld pipe feels less strong than the traditional brown plastic pipe. Is the grey/black rated for underground use?

Originally John Prescott (remember him) told LABC that they should have the staff to check DIY work meets Part P and that if they don't have the staff then the LABC should not require a DIYer to pay for a Part P Electrician (it should be included in the fee paid to LABC). However that all seems to have gone out the window. Best follow @Jeremy Harris advice.

Perhaps too heavy for the hinge friction mechanism? eg slides down and open on its own when unlocked? Perhaps wide windows may not stay parallel to the ground? eg one side may open more than the other? google found.. https://www.iqglassuk.com/storage/documents/Passiv-Haus-Windows-and-Doors-Product-Information-IQ-Glass.pdf Configurations Available Windows Fixed / Tilt and Turn / Side Hung / Top Hung / Bottom Hung (all inward opening) Doors Inward Opening Casement Door / Sliding Door Maximum and Minimum Sizes Hinged Elements 3m2, height 0.4m—2.7m, width 0.6m—1.6m Sliding Elements 4.3m2, height 1.8m—2.6m, width 1.6m—3.5m snip Maximum panel weight 90kg for hinged elements, 130kg for sliding elements

and you have definitely got all your CIL paperwork sorted (pre-commencement conditions discharged, CIL exemption claim form 7, Notice of commencement date Form 6 etc)? Get any of that wrong and you loose the CIL exemption if you start work. A fair bit of the missing data is more to do with Planning than Building Regs (eg the position of the house on the site and dimensions of the house are Planning issues not Building Regs issues). Unfortunately its up to you (the builder) to ensure the house is in the right place. There is also a difference between Building Regs drawings (which are to show how your house complies with Building Regulations) and Construction Drawings (which tell a builder how to build it). The above subset would be on a setting out or foundation plan. Typically you would start by getting a site survey done. This would be like a site plan with height data points on a 10m grid. Someone (you, your architect, or SE) would then add details of your house and founds to it together with two or more reference points (Control Stations). These reference points should be marked on the site by hammering in two posts that remain for the duration of the build (you can also set them out before the site survey and ask them to be shown on it). They should be somewhere out of the way such as in diagonally opposite corners of the plot, ideally on or near a height marker points. The posts should have height reference datum lines on them. They serve as reference points for the people setting out the house in the correct position on the site. Get these wrong and you end up building the house in wrong spot. The drawing should be dimensioned from the reference posts so the location of everything on the list can be read off and marked out on site. Drainage invert levels tell the ground workers how deep to set manholes, rest bends and the pipes between them. I can't remember if these are normally referenced to FFL or a site datum height. They probably need a cross sectional drawing of the foundations. This (these) will show: a) Foundation depth and thickness. They need to know how many courses of brick/block below FFL/DPC there will be. That way they know how much concrete to put in the trenches. Too much and you can't fit a whole number of brick courses between the top of the concrete and the desired height of the FFL/DPC. There are standard combinations for cavity walls but I'd have to look it up. Its something like two courses of blocks on the inner leaf are same height as 6 courses of bricks on the outer leaf. b) the width and minimum depth of the foundation trenches. The width may depend on the load bearing properties of the soil. This is usually determined by an SE who may need you to commission a soil condition report first (sometimes combined with a soil percolation test for soakaways). The depth of the founds may also depend on the soil type and proximity to trees and species. On some types of clay you need the sides of the foundation trenches lined with compressible boards before pouring concrete. How much of all this you actually need can depend on the project, site and soil type.

I think anyone with FTTC can order FTTP and they will quote to provide it at some cost. I'm guessing they are just making it easier in some areas where there is high demand.. https://www.openreach.co.uk/orpg/home/products/ultrafastfibreaccess/fttpondemand/fttpod.do or perhaps they are just replacing old cables in your area.