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Temp

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Everything posted by Temp

  1. Can't really see what the middle bit is. Could you cut a ridge tile to shape?
  2. I think the systems in the original news article are electric boilers heating a water thermal store used for both heating and DHW. I suspect the whole system is too small and the store is running out, particular after a shower or two.
  3. Just checking you have seen latest weather forecast for storm ciara. Pretty strong winds this weekend.
  4. If i was to switch today the best rates for my consumption would be are around 13p/kWh but I'm paying a bit more than that as I switched less than a year ago. That would make the ASHP figure 7.8*13/20 = 5.07 p/kWh just a bit cheaper than oil. They are suggesting bills would reduce from £1200+ to £840 about a 30% reduction. Still find that hard to believe.
  5. All they say is... "Electricity: Based on an average of the 6 major electricity suppliers’ online prepayment, credit and direct debit tariffs, including standing charges and VAT, but not Economy 7. Data used are the Tariff Comparison Rates (TCR) provided on the 6 major energy suppliers’ website."
  6. So they are predicting a considerable % saving. What tariff were they using to calculate your likely electricity bill? This site is one of the few that compares different fuels systems but its not without fault... https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ They estimate: Pence per kWh (after boiler efficiency) Electricity 20 p/kwh Oil/Kerosene 5.73 p/kWh ASHP 7.81 p/kWh Their figure for Electricity appears to be too high. I think 15 p/kWh is more reasonable than 20p/kWH. If they used 20p electricity in their ASHP calculation the figure for ASHP should be nearer 7.8 * 15/20 = 5.8p /KWH but that's still about the same as oil (5.7p/kWh). Ok so the Notts web site have assumed oil boilers are 90% efficient, and yours probably isn't, that appears to be where the saving is coming from.
  7. Google found that some have a 25 year warranty. Don't know about your old one but check out if you need to do anything to get that on the new one? Paperwork/receipt from plumber?
  8. They make cylinders in "steel with vitreous enamel lining" and stainless steel.
  9. Have just remembered that her storage heaters appeared to be switched off at the wall two weeks ago. If she hasn't been using those for heating the bills are likely to be wrong and too high. Can't do much for now, as it seems nobody has a Power of Attorney.
  10. The meter is actually inside her flat so I know exactly which meter is hers. Its just the number on the bill doesn't match whats on the meter. It will take me awhile to work out if her meter readings and bills agree with each other. Very little chance of me finding who has the other meter or even if it exists. Its a block of 20-30 warden controlled flats and most of the other occupiers are pretty elderly. Can just imagine the reaction I'd get knocking on all the doors asking to see their meter with no ID. Don't fancy a cold cell while they check me out.
  11. I think that should be a large part of your objection. Calculate what percentage his extension would be and refer to the green belt 30% policy and the rejections. If possible I quote a list of recent rejections and the reasons given if they help your case. Sees also the "disproportionate" test used in some areas.. https://consultations.southglos.gov.uk/consult.ti/greenbeltspd/viewCompoundDoc?docid=4628&partid=1396
  12. @bippitybopp this might help. But becaware you only have 21 days to get your objection in. First thing to understand is that planners can only take what they call "valid" planning reasons for rejection into account. Things like your house loosing value are unfortunately not considered a valid reason. Issues that effect your use and enjoyment are valid reasons. Being overlooked or over-shadowed or losing your privacy are valid grounds to object. Yes I know it may seem unfair. There is a list of valid an invalid grounds for objection here.. https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Planning_objection
  13. Read the guidance @Stewpot posted.. 8m rear extensions have to follow slightly different procedure to 4m rear extensions.. ,
  14. Think the 225*225 tile is the corner one for the border. So the border would actually be (5*450)+(2*225) rarther than 6*450.
  15. Or use cut down center tiles to make the "border around the border".. 3000/450=6.666 So 6 full border tiles with a "border around the border" of 0.666*450/2 = 150mm approx. So with luck you can get two from each 450*450 center tile. I think 150mm is wide enough so that any slight variation in width won't be obvious. For example you won't notice if the border one side is 5-10mm narrower. However if it was only 50mm then a 5-10mm variation would be more noticeable. Planning will be key. Make a drawing. I'd start laying tiles from the centre and work out.
  16. I guess ok if dead branches cant fall on anything. I've had two trees die and the main reason for cutting them down was because they shed branches.
  17. Elderly relative is moving into a nursing home and I'll probably have to sort out her bills for her. Have just noticed that the last digit of her electricity meter number is wrong on the bill. Something like bill says WX06430 when it says WX06436 on the meter itself. What are the chances two flats have been paying each others electric bill for 15 years?
  18. I've been working my way through a similar list and in the same order... Wouldn't buy TP-Link, D-Link again. Ok when new but became unreliable too quickly. Strange things like forgetting the WiFi settings for no reason. The Netgear hubs I've got have been ok. But there is a lot less to go wrong with a hub. I have two DrayTek WiFi access points that have been working well for several years and I got them second hand. Would buy again but they are more expensive than I would like new. When we got fibre (FTTC) a few years ago I switched to a Billion modem. That's also been very good. Impressed with the WiFi access point in it especially as it has no visible antenna. Would buy again based on experience to date. Not a very scientific survey but that's where I'm at.
  19. Should also check dining table if not done. The symbols look identical to those our architect used. I reckon they were invented for estate agents to make houses look bigger. Bit like using small kids to make a car look bigger.
  20. I notice that talks a lot about storage so the tanks they have must be thermal stores. They don't look big enough to switch to some sort of night time rate.
  21. Measure temperature of inside face of wall. Single brick wall probably cold enough for condensation.
  22. I also prefer option 1. However.. it's a bit narrow at 3.218m and the sofa at the top might be too far from the TV so I suggest.. Moving the partition between living and kitchen a bit to the right making living wider and kitchen smaller. Move sofa at the top down so you can walk behind it to get ffrom kitchen to BBQ area. Also makes nearer TV and other sofa. Double check the size of furniture on drawings because some architects drawings of three seater sofas are the size of some two seater.
  23. DM says... It seems they had two meters one for the boiler and one for everything else which is making it hard to switch because there aren't many (any?) tarriffs that are set like that. 7p is about same as LPG and a more than Oil according to my favourite comparison site. 16p for heating is crazy money. I notice in the video the people also say they aren't powerfull enough.
  24. +1 to the accountant. So many ways to come unstuck. For example the CIL exemption for self builders only applies under some pretty tight rules. Don't do anything until you are sure you understand them. As some errors cannot be reversed easily or at all leaving you liable to pay it. Even your accountant may not fully understand the CIL exemption do check out what you propose to do on this forum. When did your Dad get planning permission and is there still much time left before it expires? I think there are also different tax and inheritance tax rules for gifts of land rather than other assets. I wouldnt be surprised if someone told me it was better for you to buy the land and for your father to gift you the money straight back (or some other complication).
  25. A QS can do quite a lot but it can get expensive if you hire them to do everything. They can... * Estimate total build cost. * Check and adjust builders quotes so they are based on same assumptions/place holders otherwise they can't be compared. One of our builders allowed too much for steels and accepted QS figures. * Value work done to ensure builder is entitled to a stage payment and perhaps what that payment should be. Ours pointed out we should retain 5% of stage payment until snagging was done. * Check cost of changes you may want is reasonable, agree amended total price. Possibly argue for you if there is a dissagrement with the builder. Overall we found our QS better value than the Architect during the construction phase but now I have done a house I know quite a bit more than I did at the outset.
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