Temp

Too much demand for housing to care about the EPC? How about Increased stamp duty on badly insulated houses? Would that make people wake up? Make it reclaimable if the house is improved within 3 years? Any money raised used to provide grants for insulation? If not stamp duty then how about CGT or some other tax on sellers of badly insulated houses?

Ok after another look I can't tell from your original photos of the stats which of the following modes the system was designed to operate in.. 1) The clock determines if the stats are in normal or setback modes. or 2) The clock turns the whole system on/off (and the stats are wired permanently in normal temperature mode). You would need to figure out if the time clock is controlling the clock input on the stats. The manual for the stats says that (with the switch in the clock position).. https://www.heatmiser.com/en/download/211/english/9550/ds-sb-v3-2.pdf If that's how your system was designed to work then I would expect the boiler to wake up in the night sometimes, probably several hours after the clock switches off and the temperature drops 4C below the set temperature. However if the clock inputs to the stats are permanently live then the clock might be intended to turn the whole system on and off (and it has a fault or wiring error that prevents it turning off at night). I believe the optional link on the clock just converts the relay output from "volt free" mode to "Switched 230V" mode. I would expect only one to be connected to the UH3, probably the NO output. If more than one has a connection where does it go?

Think I would try submitting four separate planning applications identical to your existing PP. I know there would be fees but at least it would be clear. Edit: When you submit your commencement notice for your self build make 100% sure to quote the right planning reference!

I might be wrong but i believe the difference is minor. The TC-02 is a single channel time to clock and the TM4-TS is a four channel. I believe the time clock shown on the UH3 wiring diagram only controls the setback time. So does it matter if all stats switch from normal temperature to setback temperature at the same time (TC-02) or in groups at different times (TM4-TS)? I suppose some people might want to setback different rooms at different times but you are after the ability to turn off bedrooms totally not just setback. One solution would be to replace the stat in your bedroom with a fully programmable stat. That would allow you to program it to be fully off at night not just set back. The boiler might fire up to heat other rooms but yours would be off. We have Heatmiser programmable stats and you can set the temperature to at least four different values at different times. Eg you could set.. Waking up temperature (20C) Daytime temperature (18C) Evening temperature (22C) Night temperature (10C or lower so it's effectively off, just acting as a frost stat). You can also alter the times it switches between these temperatures.

We just chuck em in a drawer.

Sorry forget I mentioned DHW header. I was having a brain fart.

Yes on setback the boiler will probably switch off for an hour or two at night then may fire up again to maintain the setback temperature. In the winter indoor air can be very dry so you might find a humidifier helps more than reducing the temperature more than the 4C that the set back provides. Check if any water is coming out of the pressure relief valve? Or from DHW header tank overflow?

Sometimes the water can get sucked out of a trap by fast flowing water elsewhere in the system. _if_ that's the problem then adding an air admittance valve to the waste near the sink may help. These let air into the pipe breaking the suction and preventing the water being sucked out of the traps.

Short answer is Yes. It opens and closes so the set temperature is maintained 24/7. It does not mean the burner in the boiler runs 24/7. I think there have been several (3?) versions of that stat. This looks like the manual for one of them.. https://www.heatmiser.com/en/download/211/english/11237/heatmiserds-sb.pdf The slide switch is described on page 2. It has three positions.. 1 = ON Stat ignores any Time Clock and controls heating all the time, turning it on and off as necessary to maintain the set temperature 24/7. Clock = Set back mode This mode uses a separate clock that either sends 230V to the stat (Daytime) or doesn't send 230V (Night time). When the thermostat receives a 230v signal from the time clock the stat will control the temperature according to the dial setting. When no 230v signal is received from the time clock, the thermostat will operate in setback mode and automatically reducing the set temperature by 4°C. So if set to 21C the room should be heated to 21C in the daytime and 17C (21-4=17) at night time. 0 = OFF Heating OFF. Stat does not control the room temperature. The best setting IMHO would be to leave it in Clock/setback mode all the time but make sure the clock is set right... I would set the clock so that night time/setback mode starts about an hour before bedtime and finishes an hour before I get up. I say "an hour before bedtime" because it takes the house awhile to cool down (eg it should still be warm when you go to bed). If you find the house too cold just before bedtime then reduce this time from 1 hour to say 30 mins. I say "an hour before I get up" to give time for the house to warm up (eg so its 21C when I get up). If you find the house hasn't reached the target temperature (21C) when you get up then increase this time so it has more time to warm up. If you have a party that goes on late into the night then you might consider switching it to position 1 (ON) but next day put it back to clock/setback.

If you feel rich many glass shops will make one for you using low iron glass to reduce the green tint on the edges.

Says you can reclaim VAT on telephone sockets and cables but not telephones here... https://www.gov.uk/guidance/goods-and-services-you-can-claim-for-under-the-vat-diy-scheme#T Presumably talking about extensions.

Actually if the return is hinged you could open it once inside so it doesn't get in the way.

No idea. Some seem to be hinged.

More googling found this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEGANT-Frameless-Shower-Enclosure-Support/dp/B07Y4DBH6X/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Shower+Enclosure+Cubicle+1200x900+-sliding&qid=1582922615&s=diy&sr=1-9 They appear to have.. a) 700 wide pane plus a 300 wide return with fittings in 8mm glass for £108 b) 900 wide pane with fittings for £94 Total £202 inc free delivery. Do you own checks as I'm unwinding with a beer after long drive. PS With such a large tray it seems odd to me to restrict the showering area to 700 x 900. I think I would go for a hinged door so the whole tray is available.

Just for info.. I found an online quote place.. https://madetomeasureglassuk.com/toughened-glass/toughened-clear-glass and entered 6mm toughened glass 1800 x 700 1800 x 900 1800 x 300 Came to £237 + VAT just for regular glass with no fittings or mounting holes. The fittings can be quite expensive. Might not be much saving over a complete shower kit?

We had several missing basins and WC. Had to seal the open pipes so the pressure test worked but otherwise our BCO was happy. Think he was more concerned about underground leaks.

Consider looking for "low efflorescence" bricks to reduce chances of getting white salt deposits. Get bricklayers to make a 1m*1m sample wall as a quality control reference?

Our SE recommended 2m deep trench foundation and we've had no problems. House a few doors down was recommended 3m deep trench foundation by different SE. As a result they got estimates for piling which were slightly cheaper. Problem is when they started piling they found they had to go much deeper than expected and it ended up costing quite a bit more. Don't think it occured to them to do a trial hole.

Learn something new every day here. I've always used wire wool but got into the habit of blowing off any wire/dust so perhaps that's why I've not seen this or just been lucky. There is something very satisfying about assembling copper pipe and just waving a blow lamp and watching the little silver line appear. Equally nothing as frustrating as trying to solder a joint with a bit of water in the pipe.

Was the same back in the 1980s when electric powered RC planes became possible. I was an early adopter and would turn up with charged batteries and be flying before others had got theirs fueled up. No struggling to start cold engines with ether soaked fingers in winter :-)

I should add.. No soldering near the valves as heat can damage the seal, do the compression joints on the valves last. Also do as many solder joints on the workbench as possible leaving just one solder joint and one compression joint per pipe to do under the sink. Do water before waste but mindful of where the waste pipe must go.

I like full bore lever valves for isolation. Much easier to operate than other types. Are both hot and cold mains pressure? If not then there are mixer taps with different diameter connections, (bigger for the hot) that can help improve hot flow. I've fitted both flexible and rigid tails to a mono block. The rigid type weren't as difficult to do as expected. I fitted them to the tap and tightened them up. Then splayed them out a bit to allow compression lever valves to be fitted, then made up solder joints and pipes to go between those and the rest of the pipework. With soldering it's essential to clean pipe and fittings with wire wool and I also wipe on some flux before assembly. Then if they are solder ring type you just apply heat. Sometimes twisting or tapping a fitting helps the solder to flow if you can't see that happening. Almost never need extra solder.

I read somewhere that the design of the truck might have to be changed a lot to meet EU/UK regs because of the sharp edge and stiff materials. Any news on that?

Would making yours 6.3m make it deeper than the neighbours? If not then perhaps point that out and ask the planners if they will accept a it as a non-material amendment.

Seems it's a bit lower at 150l/day but depends how many people share a house.. https://www.statista.com/statistics/827278/liters-per-day-household-water-usage-united-kingdom-uk/