Temp

I believe for our Grant the instructions say the return must be >40C and <55C at all times. They recommended a mixer is used to ensure the return isn't too cold during startup as too cold apparently causes corrosion. On the other hand the boiler and load must be correctly sized or the return will be too hot preventing it operating in condensing mode or even cause short cycling. That 15C window might be wider on boilers with Stainless Steel heat exchangers? We struggled a bit to get it in the window. Had to fit smaller jets to reduce the power but the manual says that improves efficiency compared to standard jets. It started life as a 40kW feeding a 300L thermal store.

Do not rely on that. Council's have been known to send out letters saying you qualify for an exemption, without adding "if you follow the claim process". Request copies from the architect and confirm they were received by the council. Don't forget Form 7 part 2 that must be done after completion. If you haven't finished yet your architect can't have done it.

https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200136/policy_and_legislation/70/community_infrastructure_levy/5 Near the top of Form 7 it details the four step process needed to qualify and claim the self build exemption. Make sure you follow it to the letter. Make sure any forms you send in actually arrive at the council. Get proof. One letter lost in the post can cause you to loose the exemption making you liable for £thousands with no way out. Everything must be on the correct form. For example the commencement notice - you cannot just notify the council by email of the date you intend to start, it must be on form 6 and it must arrive at the council before starting work... or else!

Think that's exactly right. You need a rad that's capable of 2.5kW at 60C because it will only emit 813W at typical ASHP flow temperatures.

+1 If it couldn't be separately occupied it wouldn't count as a new house so it wouldn't be zero rated. Aside: If you have a Tree planting condition that required you to agree a landscaping plan you can reclaim the VAT on the trees as well.

Opinions vary. I believe it needs to be higher than the spillover of the lowest appliance so it doesn't reduce flood resistance of the property. However some say it must be higher than the spillover for the highest appliance for the same reason! That doesn't make sense to me. There are also "Type A" AAV that can be installed below the spill over level. Think they are rated for higher back pressures to keep water out in event of a flood.

Would a well done butt joint be very visible? Think I'd much rather have a joint than silicon sealant.

Sounds a bit expensive just to split it into two circuits. Does it need a fancy computer to control the ASHP temperature or something?

We have an old WD My Book. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Digital_My_Book Works but perhaps a bit too basic for some.

Not sure what the BCO will want. We used large radius rest bends. Google just found this which looks like it has a radius in between a standard bend and a rest bend. Seems cheap as well... https://www.speedy-plastics.co.uk/shop/underground-drainage/110mm-underground-drainage/90d-double-socket-swept-bend/

Is spray foam cheaper than rigid foam sheets with same U value?

Thinking aloud... With a standard shower trap the pipework allows the trap to move vertically slightly when the tray is fitted and connected up. With a vertical outlet trap the height might be too rigidly fixed? Not a problem for a wet room but not sure how it would work for a tray that is bedded on mortar of unknown thickness. Sorry if I haven't explained that we'll.

We have 110mm under the slab coming up in the kitchen under the sink. 40mm waste pipes from sink and dishwasher connect into it via an adaptor. Is that big X a shower tray? You should plan how that will connect into the 110mm pipe carefully. You can get top access traps with a vertical outlet but I've never used one. If the hole in the tray isn't directly above the 110mm pipe it might help to know you can get adaptors/reducers that are non concentric. They are called "level invert" adaptors. Rotating one of these allows small errors in alignment to be corrected. Just had to do this on mine. How deep will your 110mm pipe be? I recall there is a minimum height for the lowest connection above the bottom of the 110mm. Looks like that would be the shower. I think you will need an AAV near the bath as the rush of water from the WC may suck water out of the basin, bath or shower traps.

If the floor isn't getting warm check the actuator on the UFH manifold. I've had one pop off. If that's ok turn the stat right up and check the actuator for that loop works like the others. On some when the stat calls for heat a button on top comes up after several mins as a visual indicator it's ON. Then the floor loop pipe should start getting hot.

Place I use for glass is Go Glass in Cambridge. They don't list glass canopies on their web site but its the sort of place that could probably source fixings and make glass to your dimensions.

Wikipedia suggest a number of possible threads. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tripod_(photography) See under subheading "construction".

Remember not all thicknesses of PIR is available, will probably need multiple layers. Some thicknesses will probably be cheaper per mm than others, especially if you are using stocked thicknesses rather than special order thicknesses.

We don't have any either. We brought 110mm up in the kitchen under the sink area which is on an interior wall. 40mm waste pipes go into that from sink and dishwasher via an adapter. The 110mm runs straight out to an IC in the garden and we could rod back from there (although we have never needed to).

We have a slightly smaller area with stone flooring. It will sound different when empty but it's ok once you have furniture, curtains and the odd rug.

It might be worth finding out if it's worth appealing. For example if a lot of houses have been built in the area covered by the council recently and many have S106 for the same reason it might be possible to argue the need for more has changed since the policy was written. Depends if you want to gamble a bit on a planning consultant in the hope of getting it removed. You might be able to get and initial opinion quite cheaply.

Same here. Still took me a year to get our PP changed. Meanwhilewe were living abroad so to attend a meeting with the planners sometimes involved a return air fare, hotel and car hire. Weeks would go by and we would find out the conservation officer had quit and we had to wait a month before her replacement started. Some planning staff weren't even full time, one only worked three days a week. Eventually found out they had told a previous owner the opposite of what they were telling us. Even when we got planning permission they lost brick samples sent recorded delivery delaying the discharge of conditions and our start date. By contrast actually building the house was easier.

Ok so you want to demolish part of the bungalow and live in the rest for awhile. I think the ease or difficulty will depend on the layout of the bungalow. That will determine how hard it is to erect temporary stud walls and OSB and/or plastic sheeting to keep out the elements. Does that side face the weather or is it sheltered? The other issues are.. Can the electrics to the part being demolished be easily cut and isolated? Where is the meter and CU? Where is the boiler and hot water tank? Gas meter and supply pipe? Edit: You might need an SE to confirm the roof will remain safe?

CIL exemption sorted? Wouldn't want some council twit deciding you must I have started work.

It can be tricky to get the height and position of the WC pipes correct. If they are horizontal outlet pans you have to allow for screed and floor coverings which can vary. If vertical you have to position them the right distance from walls to allow for plastering, front to back depth of the cistern etc. All possible but it's a lot easier if you have stub stacks for the WC to connect to as you can adjust things later. You might also be able to connect other things into the stub stack reducing the number of connections into external IC Down side is you need to hide the stub stacks. One way to do that is to use concealed cistern as well and hide the lot in tiled studwork.

Might try.. https://www.solidwoodkitchencabinets.co.uk/ Showroom in Warrington Edit: Oops I see they appear to have gone a bit upmarket since we used them. Cabinets now in oak!