Temp

Just a thought but is it better/possible/cheaper to build the wall pillars to suit railing length rather than the other way around?

We have three small dormers in bathrooms. In our case they help with the headroom allowing a WC under the window. Only issue is that our windows are triangular so curtains are a bit harder.

Was that S106 for "affordable housing"?

Good source of info is this site. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/knowledge/planning-your-install Possibly too much info. As a starting point they suggest a Log36.. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/product/log-36-aerial-pre-wired-c-w-1ft-of-self-amalg-tape or Yagi.. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/product/yagi-18k-aerial With the elements either horizontal or vertical to suit the transmitter (most are horizontal). Perhaps try the post code checker here and then scroll down and select detailed view. https://www.freeview.co.uk/help Which transmitter(s) does it suggest? How far away? Signal strength Good/Green? Bearing to transmitter? Check any trees or buildings in that direction?

Never tried one. However Aerial theory was one of my courses at university some 40 years ago (which means I've forgotten most of it!). An awful lot depends on where you are in relation to the transmitter and if there are any local conditions that need special measures. If the transmitter is close and in line of sight a small conventional (cheaper) aerial might be all you need. First thing I noticed is that it has a built in amplifier/booster. That's not necessarily a good thing because amplifiers not only amplify the wanted signal but they add noise and amplify unwanted signals. It probably needs an amplifier to make up for its small size. The normal rules of aerial selection... Right type and size of aerial. Pointed in the right direction. As high as necessary/possible. Then if that doesn't work perfectly then address the reason why. For example if the signal is weak a bigger or higher aerial is the first thing to try. Only if you cannot fit a bigger/higher aerial should you use an amplifier. If the problem is interference from another transmitter then you might need a more directional aerial (high gain in the direction of the wanted transmitter and low gain in the direction of the unwanted transmitter. There is a lot to be said for finding a local aerial installer with a lot of experience.

I put mine on a slab of granite from a local stone mason. He had some gloss black left over from a kitchen and I got him to hone off the gloss surface. I had considered slate but was told it scratched and marked easily. If it's just the colour of the bricks you dont like, consider brick slips.

Just curious but does your lender also offer house insurance? I know they probably don't cover plots but it might be worth giving them a call pretending to need house insurance and ask if they can note a lender on their own policy. If they say no it might give you ammunition to get the requirement removed.

+1

Doesn't help but Google suggests it's pointless them asking to be noted on the policy... http://www.robertgerrard.com/2018/09/noting-an-interest-on-an-insurance-policy-is-it-necessary/

I guess we know who to ask about screed now. Is that 30mm over the pipes or 30mm total? We quite often get questions about the minimum floor build up for UFH. I've seen a system that was ok with 40mm screed but interested to know if thinner is possible.

@jfb has a socket in the floor so has to be a male fitting above it. The second photo in the OP is about as low as physically possible because it has a boss that will end up only mm above the top of the socket.

My parents named their house Palma Nova because that's where they went on honeymoon.

Try using Google translate to turn something into a foreign language. For example "Open Skies" translates to "Oka lani" in Hawiian. If you translate it back the other way as a check it says it means "It's Heaven". A letter to the relevant Embassy to check Google is correct might be worth doing! Apparently "Raon Uaine" means "Green field" in Scottish Gaelic.

That would be me. Sadly the Turner's Oak (Quercus x turneri) tree that it was named after died 10 years later. I'm going to plant another next winter.

Can you put a strap boss on a swept bend? Thought all strap on boss are designed for straight pipe. There is also a minimum height for the lowest connection in the regs but that might not be an issue.

I might be wrong but a lot of the items on the list you posted earlier look like stuff needs to provide you with a 240v connection rather than moving cables. Is there no existing supply nearby? If you are buying this land then you should factor the cost of getting services to site into the value you place on the land. Eg into the price you are prepared to pay for it. Perhaps the seller has already done that, perhaps not.

Personally I'd go for a decent IP rated light over a shower even above the height limit.

Not sure if this is of any interest but. On another forum someone is using a MAF sensor designed for cars to measure air flow in a lab experiment. Perhaps they would work on mvhr if you needed a sensor.

How high are the lines and what voltage? I thought minimum cable heights took into account vehicles passing underneath? I'm no expert but had a look at the legislation here... http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2002/2665/schedule/2/made It appears the min heights over roads and other locations are the same except for <33,000V cables. So I'm guessing "your" cable is less than 33,000V? Perhaps try safely measuring the exact height of the cables. eg using trigonometry not a long pole! If they are over 5.8m high you might not need to do anything? If they are lower how much lower? If they are below 5.2m could you argue they don't meet legislation and need to be raised? How about putting up barriers to prevent the lorry coming off the track or excavating the land 0.6m to artificially raise the height of the cable? How about barriers at the start and end of the track to limit vehicle height?

+1 I think the centre line of the lower boss would be about 40+35 = 75mm above the slab. That's at the FFL. The McAlpine ST90xxx-70 trap has the centre line of the outlet pipe 35mm below bottom of tray. There is a slightly lower one but I think it only has a 25mm water seal rather than 50mm. So you would need a platform at least 35mm high plus whatever fall is needed on the pipe run.

I think it's ok if they are at right angles. Not allowed to have them opposite (opposed) each other.

The following assumes the sweep bend has a push fit socket on it. I looked at part SY405 (87.5 Degree Five Boss Branch - Push-fit Socket - Spigot) on Marley web site.. https://www.marleyplumbinganddrainage.com/products/soil-systems/pushfit-soil/ The 110mm branch is 175mm from the bottom of the branch connector. The male on the bottom goes about 60mm into the socket of the swept bend. So I think the 110mm branch would be at 175-60 = 115mm above the top of the sweep bend. So the 110mm branch would be 35 + 115 = 150mm above the slab or 150 - (50 + 25) = 75mm above FFL. The WC pan connector is about 180mm above FFL so I think it works for the WC. The branch might even be too low if the WC pan is very close to the stack - you might even need to raise the branch a bit. Best check my maths. Aside: 50mm insulation isn't much.

Oops my bad. Didn't spot the N.

How high? We used sleepers but ours is only about 1ft high.

That's 390kg/m^2 ?