success1980

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About success1980

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  1. I am not sure, as far as I can work out it is for everyone on the street but might have to find out more details. There is only one other property (therefore only one other garage adjacent to mine) on our end of the road. The others go to the other side from the access road. The guy on our side is cool with it, he even said once that he sees the land outside my garage as mine and he wont go or park there ... not sure if he even knows I don't actually own it yet. Haven't told him what I plan yet.
  2. That is true in theory as the plan is to scale. But I wouldn't need this land if I were to undertake a build like this as a road runs to the full frontage on the north and would serve as access. The original developers have applied for two houses on this plot but that was rejected and they built one with a nice garden instead. I have no plans on building in the garden, I'd rather have a nice garden 👍
  3. Thank you all so much for your input. Just want to be a bit more precise (and I have attached a basic plan too). The ROW is for vehicles and pedestrians but only for the driveway bit (blue in the plan). It doesn't lead anywhere, there is no storage, garage, footpath etc after the driveway. The common parts area is between my driveway and the neighbour's fence. Completely overgrown and not maintained. Noone will go there and use it. I will still purchase the land even with these restrictions on them. Primarily because I want to have peace of mind of owning the land outside my garage ... don't want to see the bad in people but I have recently seen an auction where someone sold the driveway network on a small estate and they then charged people to get to their garage (don't know if it has gone through or if it was illegal). The main reason for trying to get these restrictions lifted is to have everything clear and clean with no conflict potential.
  4. Hi everyone, I own a house at the end of a cul de sac. There is no other house, no other garage, footpath etc leading away from there. My garage is the last one before my garden fence. I now have the option to purchase the land outside my garage but was made aware that 50% of it has a ROW and 50% is classed as "area of common parts" (fully overgrown with shrubs, noone has aver been there). I am not too fussed about the ROW or the area of common parts as I would buy the land anyway just to have clarity of ownership outside my garage. However, ideally I would like to get these two restrictions lifted at some point. Currently there is no issue with people parking there, but as the years go on and people get more and more cars, that can change. I would at least like to have the option to put a gate up in the years to come. My questions is ... has anyone had any experience with getting ROW removed? P.S.: Nobody has ever used that land. Not for parking, not or walking, etc. Only thing that has ever been there was my car.
  5. Hi all, The title says it already, I am struggling to find reasonably priced, fully finished internal doors. They should be smooth (no wood grain), white and the cottage style with vertical lines. Did any of you come across them in the past?
  6. Thanks for all your ideas so far, thats a great help. I do like the look of tarmac, maybe a mix could work 👍 Also my "fear" of weeds growing through the block paving even with a membrane seem justified. Something I don't want as the driveway should be minimal or no maintenance.
  7. I have a front garden of around 140m2 and would like to build a driveway. I am told it would not be an issue to get approval for a dropped kerb. My issue is that I very much like tarmac; but at 140m2 i think it may look like an office carpark. I am not 100% keen on block paving as I hate the fact that there is a chance of weeds growing through in the future. Also I am not sure if the blocks move over time when the car is always parked on the same spot, or the wheels are always turned on the same spot. Does anyone please have an inspirational idea what I could do?
  8. That's what I thought. If I have to move the wall forward by 120mm anyway I may as well continue the fake wall leven from the toilet frame at +200mm and inset the vanity until it meets the original back wall.
  9. There are some 2x4 in the wall I am planning a "floating" cabinet underneath and can fix that to the wall too. I could even let it rest on another piece of timber I screw to the wall.
  10. Thanks for your reply. I would feel more comfortable with the stability of a frame but am unsure if the frame takes too much of my space away as I have to more the wall forward by 10cm. Makes total sense though to use a frame like you did, unlike a toilet frame its main purpose is support of tha basin, nothing functionally.
  11. Hi guys, As the title says, I am planning to install a wall hung basin in the ensuite. I already have a Geberit toilet frame next to it. Do I need a frame to do this too? The water inlet and waste pipe are about 50mm from the wall and space is limited as I only have just over 40cm to the door. Alternatively I was thinking to use a countertop vanity unit and continue the false wall level of the toilet under the vanity too. This way I could mount the unit and countertop straight onto the wall and hide everything else behind the false wall. What do you think?
  12. Hey everyone, I am looking for a plain white internal door that comes finished (meaning not only primed, ready for paint ... but fully finished). I have seen many of these doors on the continent but here in the UK they all come with only a base coat and I would have to finish them myself ... not really what I want to do. Anyone have an idea where I can get them from? Thanks
  13. Thanks for the link, looks good. Will give them a call.
  14. Hi I am looking to replace my front door (around 80cm wide, have to take exact measurements) with something much more high quality. Currently there is a cheap, light, standard door which feels drafty and light. I have seen doors that feel heavy and sturdy with 2 or 3 seals. Surely they retain energy much better as the bit if cardboard that is currently there. I did come across a company called Hormann. Does anyone have any experience with them? Or are there other manufacturers that have good alternatives? Thanks
  15. Thanks for the info guys. There is nothing much to protect except cars (which will be locked anyway) and the odd tool which won't break the bank if I have to replace them. I agree, the damage would be more expensive anyway. And there is a side door too. Good to hear that the motors actually have some sort of "closong pressure" even with power off. Just thought there may be some extra latches that get automatically released when the motor opens the door.