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Seems I can pick up a non fake 4.0 battery for £45. Will prob go with that and the dewalt recip from eBay at £65.

I am entirely convinced. My wood burner is a modern, Norwegian built Jotul F373, installed as I was building my house in 2016. It has exceptional performance and I use excellent wood which is sourced locally. When it burns you have to look very hard indeed to see anything coming out of the flue and on a gray day you won’t be able to see anything. I also had the flue cleaned and after 8 years of burning the guy said he could find nothing in the flue. in this 8 year period I have planted 208 trees on my property.

I've heard a lot of stories from bcos about incompetent work from self builders....and people expecting a free design service, Deliberate bodging and cocealment, usually by contractors Rubbish work by supposedly experienced builders. Promises to remedy a problem, only to find it ignored or concealed on a quick return. I don't fancy the job.

Hiya. I'm Scottish base and have family that live on one of the inner Hebrides and have lot's of experience dealing with BC on the Islands. Also I deal with Scottish Building Standards on a regular basis and have done so for the last 40 years. Some of the BC officers I know quite well, we have a chat on the phone about our careers and reminisce on how good the old times were. In other words they are folk just like us.. there is the odd exeption but that is life. In the round though BC officers actually do have your best interests at heart. It would be great to have a BC officer or two join BH! On the Islands there is a lot of politics. Some Island builders are really shite, cut corners in a big way, some are better / good. BC know who they are so maybe you are getting a heads up and not just seeing the wood for the trees about the work that has been done by others. Now you are doing a bit of work yourselves.. well how much and when did you start doing a lot yourselves? It is in your own interests to build your house right? There is always friction on the Islands... BC know this but are not corrupt at this level. There are loads of other Islanders and folk moving there that do DIY projects so you are not the first and last. @JWHIT "surely this is trespass" My advice.. get this right out your head now. If the BC officer can access your site then you have a Health and Safety issue and they can hammer you on that. The HSE law is quite clear on this all over the UK, if your site is accessible then you are on a hiding to nothing. Have a looked at your site security? Don't pursue this route as you will likely regret it. Too late for that, BC can hammer you much earlier. There is no argument in law for shoddy HSE by saying.. hey I'm insured. Insurance is for when you have tried to do your best and things still go wrong. If they can see bad things from outside the site boundary then surely.. you may be making a cock up? If you try and play hard ball with them then they will pull your trousers down and you won't get to pull them back up until they have run you ragged. Now you may feel that the BC officer has turned up with no appointment.. but they are allowed to do this under UK HSE law (not just Scottish law) .. part of their remit is pubic safety.. they can hammer you on this too! To lay it on a bit thicker they may start to ask if your project should fall under CDM regulations., just to give you the run around. In summary: 1/ Yes there is Island politics, don't worry too much about the main Island Contractor not getting the job. 2/ Phone the officer up and ask when they are next on the island and arrange to meet them in person. This is so imprortant. You are on an Island.. you must get to know folk.. the emails you get from BC only show a snap shot.. sometimes they write stuff that seems really daft / aggressive.. but they are pushed for time and under funded. Cut them some slack and cut yourself some slack too. Keep an open mind as while you see this as a personal opinion then they may be able to give you good advice? Also if you hit it off with them then later on when you apply for a completion certificate you'll probably find that part of the process much easier and not get hit with a load of things that don't conform. 3/ Build a rapport with the officer.. recognise that they may be trying to help you rather than hinder. You may have a young and inexperienced BC officer. Be very careful here not to bully as their boss will then give you the big stick! Listen to what they are saying.. put forward your ideas and have a bit of fun.. seriously they are just folk. To finish @Kelvin may be able to give you some advice about how you deal with BC when relocating to the north of the UK ( Scotland) 4/ Some of my family live on Tiree. Clocked this at the end! Well it does.. Some of the building regs are open to opinion / discussion / detailed design. BC officers often hold professional qualifications / have great experience. They are entitled to question. As before one big stick they do hold is the public safety issue (I do it too as an SE) . Lot's of folk on BH think that this is their house and they can do what they want. BC say and I.. that house has to last for 50 years at least and you may sell it to a family in a couple of years time. Our duty is not just to you but all the folk that come after. Just copied this right at the end. The above is misleading as if it is deemed to be a risk to public saftey then the LA can effect immediate access as what they do will call on the Fire service, the Police , gas board and me as an SE. You see.. who knows what building regs have been compromised? Is it just an extractor fan of a serious structural defect that could cause a gas leak? If push comes to shove and I'm acting for the local authority.. I'll find a legal way of getting into your property if I feel there is a safety issue. You are pissing in the the wind! If you have nothing to hide then you should be relaxed about all of this.

One or the other is enough - it just needs to be very airtight. Not that much of a cost - you only need to brush or trowel on a couple of mm thick - the cost is mainly labour. You have a cost whether you choose parge or PIR joint-sealing; probably not much difference.

Because I know the thermodynamics.

I’d have my money on a plumbing leak I The trays should cope with anything soaking through

This thread is just showing how individual houses differ. My 5kW heat pump copes with heating our house at +20 indoors and -10 outside. -10 for a week or more is quite normal here in winter with high pressure and no wind to bring warmer air. When you hear on the weather forecast "colder in some sheltered glens" that is us. It rarely defrosts at -10, there is just too little moisture in the air by then. A few degrees either side of 0 is when defrosting is more likely. My LG heat pump seems incredably quick at it's defrost cycle, the compressor and fan stop. You hear the 4 way valve change over. the compressor starts but not the fan. When the evaporator warms up and melts the ice, only then does the fan start and blow away all the now melted ice in a puff of "steam". Then the compressor and fan stop the 4 way valve changes back and normal operation resumes. That takes about 2-3 minutes in total. Another feature of our house is it will not heat up or cool down quickly. Nothing to do with thermal mass but everything to do with low decrement delay insulation. Perhaps that is why the WBS does not overheat our house but others have that problem?

Its about a 3.5C drop from 20.5 to 17. The average house temp in winter is thus very roughly 9*20.5 +15*(20.5-1.75) = 19.4C. The correction factor is therefore 20.5--2.3)(19.4--2.3), about 5% suggesting your design temperature load is about 5.8kW. You will need bigger than this if you plan to heat part time when its at its coldest. 5.8kW and 6.5kW are not that far apart! Thinking about it I realise that the calculation of the 'correction factor' for part time heating is wrong. Since it is effectively being applied to the whole season consumption, it should be calculated with reference to the average OAT not the extreme OAT. I don't know what the average OAT in the heating season is, but its probably around 7C https://www.statista.com/statistics/322658/monthly-average-daily-temperatures-in-the-united-kingdom-uk/. Thus the 'correction factor' is 20.5-7)(19.4-7), about 8% instead of 5%. This means that the estimated load based on the annual consumption is suggesting your design temperature load is about 6kW. This doesn't make much deference but does increase the level of confidence that the 7kW Vaillant should do the job (see calculations in this post)

We keep on having this WBS debate, it is a Marmite subject and nobody is going to convince the "other side" that they are wrong. I have one because we have trees which properly managed produce wood so I burn it. If I had to buy wood to burn, I would not bother. But the WBS is a good second source of heat, even a passive house will loose it's temperature when it's well below 0 and the the power is off for several days because we are a low priority after a storm. The over heating myth. Yes if we crank the stove up full and shut the doors to the room it is in (largest room in the house) it would quickly get very hot in there, but leave all the downstairs doors open and the heat can get to all the house without overheating any one room. Perhaps that is down to design that we wanted double doors to the main downstairs rooms to open it all up when we want to. I will start to give the environmental arguments against a WBS just a little credence when there is a public admission that burning wood in DRAX on an industrial scale was a bad idea and should never have been done and it has been closed with immediate effect. In the mean time some of the electrons powering my ASHP may well have come from there.

The important data point is your heat loss when the heating is off. It ought to be negligible over that time period.

In England and Wales, BCOs are required (under Section 8 of the The Building (Approved Inspectors etc. ) Regulations 2010) to 'take such steps (which may include the making of tests of building work and the taking of samples of material) as are reasonable to enable the approved inspector to be satisfied within the limits of professional skill and care that [most sections of the regulations are complied with]'. Consequently they are free to inspect the work as they wish, not just at the set intervals, provided they are being reasonable. If that is during normal working hours, then I imagine that would be viewed as reasonable.

If your yardstick is number of trees planted then I’ve planted more so therefore I am allowed to lecture you? I rather suspect not. There’s a long list of stuff we could compare if you like beyond how many trees we’ve planted. We have ‘banned’ plastic containers from our house which is almost impossible really. We try and use refill places as much as possible for example. But it’s cut down the amount of plastic we use significantly probably by about 75%. I no longer shower every day. I wear clothes for longer between washes. We don’t use a tumble dryer etc The point is that everyone can justify how they live. It’s the collective impact of that across millions of people around the World. 18°C is a perfectly healthy temperature for the majority of people. Sure if you want it warmer then fine but it won’t impact the health of the vast majority of people. A wbs is likely to be worse for your health. But my point was that three small electric heaters got our house up to 18°C before the ASHP was installed. Therefore I’m quite confident, now it is installed, we won’t be sitting freezing on the odd day it’s cold because it can’t cope wishing we hadn’t deleted the wbs from the plans.

I believe the 45’ rule does apply to permitted development but your neighbour may not object! My brothers neighbour built an extension within the 45’ but my brother did not object and it was ok. Some bedtime reading….https://www.jabdesign.co.uk/blog-2/what-is-the-45-degree-rule-and-why-is-it-important

Yes, you'd expect the big developers to have their own quality control but no. Not just housing either. Our bco said he was inspecting an upmarket shopping mall development. Inspecting a floor shutter, he saw there was no steel mesh. "It's coming." Went back an hour later to find the concrete poured and no mesh in it. It's scary really. If he hadn't the integrity and some courage to go back, then that would be a dangerous building. It's all too easy to keep a bco off site if you want to. I welcome them, genuinely, albeit they can be annoying sometimes.

Absolutely. At my recent pre-plaster inspection, the BCO commented on the high standard of workmanship and detailing on my build and said it was a breath of fresh air. He said I should have seen some of the developer and contractor stuff he'd been inspecting earlier - which was along the lines of a dogs dinner, the lot of it.

Ok thanks Joe. I’ll do that, I guess I just want to make sure I’m bot wasting time, but no harm in talking with them to get a feel. (They gutted the house in 2021 and their was no shortage of disruption that we put up with, so hopefully they’re accomodating.

I love this thing and looks the batt is compatible. You’re right, I’ll stick to DeWalt.

Stick to a brand really, I use DeWalt for everything and being able to switch the battery is a right bonus. For what its worth I've a cordless DeWalt recip and it's been bullet proof.

Wow! I have an 18v dewalt drill driver. I will need to check compatibility but thank you, that looks unbeatable.

Go for a naked tool that is compatible with the batteries and charger you already have? I bought a used Makita off eBay and it’s had an absolute beating over the last 5 years. Still going strong, just a bit noisier as it’s not as ‘tight’ due to wear & tear, but with what I’ve done to it I’d be happy to buy one once every 12-18 months as it’s earned its money hundreds of times over.

When I needed to contact Building Control urgently I sat in the lobby of the Building Standards office with a letter for Building Standards and a good book to wile away the hours. I had to leave at closing time without managing to have a face-to-face meeting. When the building control officer came to my home the following week he mentioned that he dealt with my letter first because he had 240 emails in his inbox on average that had to be dealt daily.

Thats the same Czech document as on the OpenEnergyMonitor thread I posted earlier. I have not seen this document in English (and presumably neither has @sharpener), I wonder why not. Vaillant are a German company but perhaps they design their heat pumps in the Czech republic, Alternatively perhaps they think that Czech heating engineers are more likely to understand it. According to the document the 5kW model can do about 6.5kW at FT45/-2 and modulate down to 2.5kW at FT35/+12 the 7kW model can do about 9kW at FT45/-2 and modulate down to 3.2kW at FT35/+12 I have chosen FT35/12 as a representative 'mild weather' scenario assuming weather comp The document also seems to list a 6kW model which does about the same as the 5kW model, which may be why its not available in the UK sofaik. According to the spreadsheet OP's loss is 7698. This, is likely to translate to about 4kW most of the time According to the 'total energy' method OPs loss is 5.8kW. This is likely to translate to about 3kW most of the time. That, in all probability, bounds the uncertainty. Ideally therefore we want a machine that can do 8kW and can modulate down to 3kW. If OP could verify the actual loss eg from smart meter measurements is closer to the 'total energy' figure than it is to the 'spreadsheet' figure then it might be possible to show that the 5kW model is adequate. Otherwise I would agree with @sharpener that it is not a safe choice. The 7kW model should, based on what we have heard, have adequate capacity. At a min output of 3.2kW it might struggle to achieve the 'most of the time' requirement without cycling if, in fact, the house demand is only 5.89kW. However as OP is likely to do an element of batch heating (based on current patterns) this should, with a bit of luck, compensate. Thus I would tend to agree with @sharpener that the 7kW model is likely the one to choose unless the actual demand can be shown to be closer to the 'total energy' figure. There is a risk of cycling in the shoulder season, but mild batch heating, which appears likely to be the desired pattern anyway, will probably overcome this. If I were OP I would look at whether I could bring any more evidence to bear on the question, but if I couldn't I wouldn't sweat about it and would run with the 7kW. That's of course if OP can persuade anybody to fit it! Fir what its worth here are the performance tables for the '8.5kW' R32 Mitsubishi Ecodan. Given the uncertainties I would describe these as not markedly different to the Vaillant ones as regards capacity and modulation.

Thank you. I enjoyed it and which they could do a more in depth series, but accept that it is rather niche. Another good one is In Their Element Has Andrea Sella in it, and he is a bit bonkers, but a brilliant science communicator. This RI lecture about Rare Earth Elements is just brilliant.

Just leave it all 20, keep it simple, your either going to batch charge the house or run on Weather Compensation. So 20 is close enough or your average temperature.

It's correct that condensation can cause problems with gypsum & plasterboard, but there's no need to worry at the exposed wall surface. What you don't want though is gypsum left on the original wall that you're insulating, as that's where condensation is most likely.

I always like it when my Grandmother said "5 and twenty past" or "Five and 20 to".

Then they need to supply parts at a reasonable price. There are 2 headlights in a car (sometimes more) I simply do not believe at manufacture time they cost £1600 which would have been more than 5% of the cost of the car (possibly a lot more)

Remember to position the steels in the room on the floor before you put the acros and needles in, once you have it all propped you sometimes cannot get the steels in. I have seen this a few times. if the celcons are not strong enough you might need to chop them back and build up in 7n lightweight concrete blocks. you can also change the cavity into one solid pier.

@Gus Potter I'm here to learn too. Me asking these questions (speculating as you say) is educational for me. The term "cantilevered slab" is a fascinating concept to me, I even started to explore the possibility of a cellar over the chamber - which again, as a concept is exciting as hell to me - be as blunt / tough as you need to be, I'm just grateful you guys are taking time to share your experiences with me and I genuinely love this sh1t. As mentioned -I'm in the process of getting the basics sorted. I'm being as pragmatic as I can as I've never been here before. TW have a set of drawings and outlined the application process - I assume that TW will need another set of drawings with revised foundations and doing my homework means I should be able to present them with the best options. I'd not dream of asking you to design anything at this point, this is just a preemptive discussion. Budget - £50k Self built so I'd expect a fair bit of change from this. SE has done nothing wrong as his scope was (and still is at this point), a rear extension. As mentioned above - "I" am enquiring about the wrap around. Good shout on the title deed thing too, although I've never had an SE as thorough as that but i'll be sure to give you a shout first in the next one.

No - it's a reference number for the chamber - you should also have a list of the nearby chambers together with their cover level and invert level and hence their depth. Not is all lost - I once dealt with a rear extension that had a 1500mm dia surface water sewer running up the shared driveway between the applicant and his neighbour in St. Albans. It took a while to sort out and cost him more than you'd want but not silly money. Approval was given by TW and it got built.

MY view on this is similar to few others, I arranged a Kick-off site visit with My BCO, this for me has always been a way of getting a positive relationship with the BCO officer, in Scotland with the Warrant the work is very formalised anyway. My invitation was open the discussion similar to "I'm planning on doing X, Y, & Z over the next few weeks, do you want to see any certain aspects? want me to send photo's? etc. and an open offer to visit whenever they were passing. I have nothing to hide, their experience and help is more valuable than then turning up ad-hoc IMHO. This worked to my advantage on the build they did call in one day and I went through the progress, all good, then when It came to pouring concrete, They were unable to visit due to other commitments so I sent photos and moved on with no issues. IF I was a BCO, and the client got twitchy with me turning up, I'd be suspicious. If its purely Insurance etc, I'm sure that could be worked around with a site visitors book for signing in etc. @JWHIT "it also seems to be the case that because we are doing a fair amount of work ourselves, and not using any of the main island contractors, they have sparked a particular interest " My View on this is simple, they don't know you or the quality of your work, so for me it's up to you to A: help them understand your ability and quality - i.e. let them see your work, your passion for the quality etc, B: be cryptic, evasive with them, and expect them to look under every stone to make sure their happy with the progress.

Agree piles and cantilever beams the most likely viable solution. Rafts wouldn't be suitable as although they wouldn't damage the sewer, the water company is more concerned about getting access to the sewer in future and they wouldn't want to undermine a raft.

Thanks @Gus Potter Happy to share my experience and how I approached it. When I got the warrant approval letter and therefore got the name and number of the BCO assigned to our build I made a point of asking a few folk that had built houses in the area what their experience of the BCO was. I also asked some of the trades I had lined up what they were like to deal with. The common feedback was helpful, pragmatic, and practical. I then called him to introduce myself and tell him a little about our project. I asked him how he liked to work and if he had any advice for me. He asked me which trades I’d lined up and while he didn’t offer a direct opinion on them I still got his opinion (if you catch my drift) What I did notice was that the trades I was using made a big difference. For example when I told him the groundswork company I was using he immediately said brilliant you’ll have no problems there which presumably helps him a bit too. They are busy people working in an underfunded department so getting them onside early is important. I can imagine that their approach on the islands will be quite different to my area due to necessity of geography. My BCO can drop in when he’s passing which he has done a few times. Yours can’t so when they are there they are likely to want to make the best use of their time. Plus you’re doing this yourself and their experience of people doing much of the work themselves is mixed hence his slightly more thorough approach possibly. The BCO told me of some horror stories when he first visited. All of that said, the guy might just be a bit of an arse, some are. If so you’ll need to bite your tongue a bit and work around that. One last point, whenever I’ve visited the islands I’ve seen lots of building work going on and very little in the way of security fencing in place. If that’s you then I’d make your site more secure. Your site insurance could be invalid if it’s not secure. Clearly Heras fencing isn’t the last thing in secure fencing but it stops people randomly entering your site.

I love hammering nails. As I understand it they are less prone to sudden sheer failure than screws. You can get special screws now that are fit to replace nails in joist hangers for example. These might be the "high" quality space screws mentioned above. As for the BCO disregarding the SEs design, they will probably become believers after the screwed joint is still in place in 50 years. Frustrating for you but that's the way most knowledge on building seems to become accepted.

Thanks to the relatively mild weather this winter i decided to start chipping away at the bathroom project, which is being extended into part of the extension which was finished over a year ago. This gave me the opportunity to install the bath, sink and toilet in the new bit, at which time I’d totally disconnected the old bathroom allowing me to strip it out and that’s worked really well for my as I struggle to do more than 4hours in a single day so I could keep doing a bit and stopping when I’d had enough. didn’t fancy tackling the ceiling for plastering in the new bit so got a pro in to do this bit for me, all done in a couple of hours which was nice. and made the most of the space and got the painting done after putting a layer of 10mm marmox board down ready to accept the underfloor heating mat Next job was to start making a frame to hold the toilet frame and the sink and cabinet Decided on making my own cabinet rather than paying silly money for an MFC one, got pine furniture boards, a pocket hole jig and a new router and came out with this which I’m pretty happy with that all got painted and the sink installed, wall mounted tap and the wet room panels that I’m using both for this and for the walk in shower area all installed. got to work cutting the OSB backing and wet room panel for the toilet in prep for the final big push to disconnect the old and commission the new, that was a hard days work! And then bath and toilet all installed once the shower area is complete the bath will be disconnected again to lay the underfloor heating, self leveller and the flooring before being put back in place, and eventually building the wall and plastering it. Made a start on stripping the old bathroom out Next job is to patch up the loft insulation where the old spotlights were, new wiring in place for a single light fitting this time, airtight membrane adhered to the walls and then battens before reboarding it ready for plastering. Floor is coming up also to be replaced with 22mm chipboard to match new bit.

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/35099-streetfield-suds-system/?do=findComment&comment=513546 (And if you can spot the mistake in the very final calculation, you have understood it. The answer is correct but a number in the equation are not) The Building Regulations 2010 Drainage and Waste Disposal Approved Document H 2015 Edition: Section 3.27 states “Soakaways should be designed to a return period of once in ten years”. However, our LA wanted to see 1 in 100 calculations The soil infiltration rate (f) is calculated with the equation: f = Vol75-25 / ap50 x tp75-25 f: soil infiltration rate (m/s) Vol75-25: volume of water in the trial pit between 75% - 25% effective depth (m³) ap50: internal surface area of trial pit up to 50% effective depth, including the base area (m²) tp75-25: time for water to fall from 75% - 25% effective depth (secs) The storage volume should be calculated so that, over the duration of the storm, it is sufficient to contain the difference between the inflow volume and the outflow volume. The inflow volume (I) is calculated from the rainfall depth and the area drained. The outflow volume (O) is calculated from the area of the side of the storage volume when filled to 50% of its effective depth and D, the duration of the storm in minutes. Storage Volume Method The soakaway storage volume (S): S = I – O S: Soakaway storage volume (m³) I: Inflow from impermeable area drained to soakaway (m³) O: Outflow infiltrating into the soil (m³) Inflow (I): I = A x R A: Impermeable area to be drained to the soakaway (m²) R: Total rainfall in design storm (m) Outflow (O): O = as50 x f x D as50: Internal surface area of proposed soakaway up to 50% effective depth, excluding the base area (m²) f: Soil infiltration rate (m/s) D: Storm duration (sec) The following 1 in 100 year return period rainfall values will be used for the infiltration proposals. This is calculated using the Wallingford Procedure for the Cambridge area with catchment details: 5-year return period rainfall of 60 minutes duration = 20 r Ratio Rainfall Value = 0.45 Standard Average Annual Rainfall = 550 WRAP Soil Index = 2 Runoff Coefficient = 100% Climate Change Allowance = 1.4 Return Period = 100 years Storm Duration (Minutes) 5 10 15 30 60 120 240 360 600 100 Year Return Period Rainfall (mm) 20.50 28.96 35.18 45.07 56.00 67.42 78.11 85.05 93.98 Table 4: 100 Year Rainfall Values Infiltration Rate Calculation The proposal presents a rainwater run-off of 115m² from the proposed dwelling roof area and 62m² from the proposed garage roof area. The soil infiltration rate should be calculated as follows: f = Vol75-25 / ap50 x tp75-25 f: Soil infiltration rate (m/s) Vol75-25: Volume of water in the trial pit between 75% - 25% effective depth (m³) ap50: Internal surface area of trial pit up to 50% effective depth, including the base area (m²) tp75-25: Time for water to fall from 75% - 25% effective depth (sec) Vol75-25 = 0.3 x 0.3 x (0.3 x 0.5) = 0.0135m³ ap50 = (0.15 x 0.3 x 4) + (0.3 x 0.3) = 0.18 + 0.09 = 0.27m² Average tp75-25 = 2870 sec Average infiltration rate to be used for design, f = 0.0135 / (0.27 x 2870) = 1.74 x 10-5 m/s Storage Volume Calculations The proposed soakaway is to be made with dimensions of 1.40m effective depth, 3m long and 3m wide. Inflow I = A x R A = 115m² + 62m² = 177m² R = M100-5 = 20.50mm = 0.02050m I = 177 x 0.02050 = 3.63m³ Outflow O = as50 x f x D as50 = (L x h x 2) x0.5 + (W x h x 2) x0.5 = (3 x 1.4) + (3 x 1.4) = 8.40 m² f = 1.74 x 10-5 m/s D = 5min = 300sec O = 8.40 x (1.74 x 10-5) x 300 = 0.044m³ Storage Volume S = I – O: = 3.63 – 0.044 = 3.58 m³ Calculations were then repeated for a range of critical storm durations. Storm Duration (min) Required Soakaway Volume (m³) 5 3.58 10 5.04 15 6.09 30 7.71 60 9.38 120 10.87 240 11.71 360 11.88 600 11.34 1440 7.14 Table 5: Soakaway Volume for Range of Storm Durations The calculations have indicated the critical storm duration to be 360 minutes in this situation, giving 11.88m³ soakaway volume requirement. Using geocell soakaway crates with 95% void space gives an effective volume of the soakaway: EVol = 3 x 3 x 1.4 x 0.95 = 11.97m³ Effective Volume 11.97m³ > Required Volume 11.88m³ It should also be ensured that any proposed soakaway discharge from full to half-volume within the required maximum 24 hour duration, to allow for subsequent storm inflow. The half drain time (ts50) should be calculated as follows: ts50 = S x 0.5 / as50 x f = (11.88 x 0.5) / (11.88 x 1.74 x 10-5) = 40716 sec = 11.31 hrs Half Drain Time 11.31hr < Required Drain Time 24hr

Wish my dad was still alive. He was lighting engineer/manager at BBC and could probably make a fortune designing lighting for houses. He did some garden lighting in the 1980s tor people but was getting offered projects on £ multi million houses and was meant to be retired.

The ecologists. They have a vivid imagination.

Can I bring in a new rule that anybody who ever has bonfires is not allowed to criticise wood burners? That's not aimed at anyone, just a generality. I say that while sitting in a draughty old house with no central heating until it is fixed, and an electric heater on. I don't know what fuel made the electricity. I'm going to overcome it temporarily by doing some pruning and leaf clearing and filling the brown bin to make municipal compost. I will do it very gently to avoid any dust that is below 10 microns.

Degrees in Renewable Energy and Environmental Science, A Master and 2/3rd of a PhD in Energy Usage. Well I have the biggest I suspect.

I am in trouble then as I am sitting in a room that is between 17.25 and 17.562°C. See you all on the other side as I don't have long to go.

LEDs Are Pants? https://www.kingfisher.com/en/own-exclusive-brand.html

Make a change from Stargazy Pie and Saffron Buns. I have done Jury Service on a sexual offence charge (and a theft/assault charge as well). The opinions of the gobby juriers is unbelievable and the evidence presented to them is of no consequence, even when they are direct to deliver a not guilty verdict. It was one of the worse 2 weeks of my life and an innocent person was found guilty. I was so upset that as I walked back to my car I was in tears from anger, frustration and injustice. I felt I should have done more along with the other two people that were working to the evidence, one of which changed their mind without an explanation (they got paid the same to sit in the courts as they did cutting up bacon at work).

I can't compete with that line up, my only brushes with celebrity are that I designed a website for Eric Knowles, chatted to Paul Young often and used to work for one of Adam Ant's band members. Got to be a certain age to even begin to think who they are!

I've a mate who does set dressing for a production company that's done a few property shows. Renting is what happens, they rent a van, go down to one of the large prop companies, in Borehamwood I think he said, stock up with furniture and pot plants and then dress the house like it was a drama set, in wafts the presenter, pack it all up and return the next day.