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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/01/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Just to put the floatation aspect into perspective, we have an 85mยฒ slab, which is EPS that's 300mm deep. If the water level rose to the top of the slab (DPM level) then the upward acting buoyancy of the EPS would be around 242 kN. The mass of concrete and steel in the slab is around 14.5 tonnes, so that exerts a downwards force of around 142 kN. The mass of the house built on top of the slab is around 30 to 40 tonnes, so that exerts a downwards force of between 294 to 392 kN. Summing these forces, using the minimum house mass, we end up with: Downwards forces = 142 kN + 294 kN = 436 kN Upwards force = 242 kN So, even if flooded up to the top edge of the slab, the point where the house would start to get flooded, there is zero risk of the house being displaced upwards by the buoyancy of the EPS, all that would happen is that the force acting on the ground beneath would reduce from around 436 kN to around 194 kN.
  2. 2 points
    Some of ours (EPS300) took flight in a gale: hence aviation anti-collision lights too
  3. 2 points
    Welcome. Our experience of the early phase of the process was that our opinion of what we wanted changed - almost by the month. As our opinions became more and more informed, so our ideas adapted to encompass those ideas. A bit like the way that wine consumption over time tends to change your palate: you start to prefer drier wines - sweet white is fine, but a dry crisp white is better with fish. Your hands-off approach is highly likely to change once you've been hit in the bank balance once or twice. (That is if you realise you've been had) The best thing to do is to read the wailing and gnashing toothed stories here - and stories of the sheer delight on moving in. Self building doesn't discriminate by bank balance or personality or approach or intelligence or experience. It's uniformally challenging. Your experience is highly likely to be something like the one described by the commentariat here. It's pure skiing in front of an avalanche. ( @TerryE Jan 2019)
  4. 2 points
    Sorry, that was a typo, should have read MOT Type 3 - I've corrected it now, thanks for highlighting it.
  5. 2 points
    Perhaps passiv slab house owners should fit marine navigation lights to cover all possibilities.
  6. 2 points
    Just for clarity, MOT type 1 includes fines, and isn't free-draining. I think the stuff specified by MBC's engineer is something like "18-35mm, no fines". We used recycled railway ballast. If you choose to do this, make sure you're getting stuff that's been steam-cleaned. Ours was filthy with god knows what, but it was delivered and laid while I was at work so there was nothing I could do about it.
  7. 2 points
    If you want to find the studs after the plasterboard is up, and you haven't marked the floor, then magnets work well. I have some pencils where I fitted neodymium magnets to the end, and these are great for finding plasterboard screws and a lot more accurate than using a stud finder. I also have a dozen or so left over magnets (small ones, around 6mm diameter x 6mm long, IIRC) that I use as markers. They will just stick to the wall wherever there is a plasterboard screw, so I can put several in place to show where all the screws/studs are without marking the paint finish.
  8. 1 point
    When you say "in the footings", is this to take the water main through the foundation from outside to inside the building under what will eventually become the internal floor? I ask because the accepted practice is to use ducting for the water pipe as it passes through the foundation wall. The Building Construction Handbook 11th Edition page 937 has a diagram showing what is required with a 75mm drain pipe acting as a conduit for the water pipe through the wall and up to the FFL. In their diagram the footing blockwork is as deep as the regulation 750mm depth for laying a water main hence the water pipe and duct pass through blocks rather concrete. I assume your foundation concrete is thicker and the footing block courses will start above the 750mm regulation depth for the water main? The same page then has a confusing extra note "pipes passing under the foundations should be encases in mass concrete". I think this covers a different situation where the foundations are shallow and the arrival point of the mains pipe is completely below the main poured concrete foundations. Your builder should adhere to further mains water service standards as the water main passes up through the floor structure to FFL particularly insulation. The book shows insulation for the final 600mm of conduit up to FFL and where the water main emerges at FFL within 750mm of an external wall I think it recommends the whole conduit is insulated. Here is what an Anglian Water inspector would be looking for: Pipe has ducting and insulation where it enters the building. Ends of the duct are sealed. Within the property oversite, where there is a suspended floor or the pipe rises to less than 750mm deep within 750mm of an external wall the conduit should be insulated. If the pipe runs through concrete it is housed in continuous ducting to facilitate later removal. See page 11 https://www.anglianwater.co.uk/_assets/media/LED645_AW_DS_Connecting_10_steps_20pp.pdf I am a beginner who is about to tackle this on a diy basis so it would be good if @PeterWcould review this.
  9. 1 point
    Ground that has a very high water table or that is prone to flooding would definitely need the input of an engineer before designing the foundations. Take a look at the power of floating polystyrene on a flooded site in this link of a flooded car park in London: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/10/09/cars-crushed-against-the-ceiling-in-underground-car-park-as-floo/
  10. 1 point
    The bedrooms are all more than 3mx3m so maybe there will be space... although donโ€™t like the idea of jack and Jill en-suite. The shower room on the top floor might help for future years! The eldest is currently only 8!
  11. 1 point
    We have a passive slab on dug out ground. Dead easy and quick to install, if done by a team who know what they are doing. Not great for a team who have little experience of laying them. There are photos and a description of ours being laid here: http://www.mayfly.eu/2013/10/part-sixteen-fun-and-games-in-the-mud/ Start to finish the laying of the blinding, insulation, DPM, reinforcement fabric, UFH pipes and pouring and power floating the concrete slab and ring beam took four days. The slab is laid directly on a free-draining 200mm thick layer of MOT Type 3, a bit like clean railway ballast, laid on to geofabric. We have drains around the edges to ensure water flows away. The photo below shows the dug out ground and the layer of compacted Type 1 stone:
  12. 1 point
    Strip foundations and insulated suspended timber floor. The main issue for me is the slop of the site and I wanted to raise, not lower, the ground level. At the back, the house floor is 1 metre above ground level (and that is after the ground level was raised using all the spare soil) To do that with a passive slab would have been a lot of material to import, and would have meant building up a raised platform that extended beyond the perimiter of the house and would not have worked so well with the landscaping plans.
  13. 1 point
    Recognising that a lot is cast in stone as you have a Planning App in, but commenting a little more widely as I am wondering if your overhangs will be seen as taking the p slightly on a footprint restriction and they may say to think again in some respects. I like that you have not told the planners *too* much stuff they do not need to know. 1 - I like the placement, orientation and layout on the plot, but wonder if you need something for winter / wet weather playing for kids that is not the main lawn; area by the South end of the house? Being cater-cornered always make it seem more upmarket and bigger, like laying tiles diagonally in a room. 2 - I like the curved wall - if stud should be OK to build (insulation inside it) if planned carefully by good people. Not sure a pantry that deep and narrow will work at the back - lay it out in full plan size and experiment physically? I might make the last 1.2-1.8m into a cupboard or shelf unit in the hall. 3 - To me the overall look and feel is a bit retro, and does not match recent ideas of open voids and "wow" spaces inside, and in the use of windows. May not be a issue for you. That may be partly the furry sketch style of drawing, which always feels more busy on the page. Has it been run through a furry-iser program ๐Ÿ˜€, or is it a real by-hand sketch plan (gold star if so)? 4 - I half agree on the "4 beds to one bath" comment. I would consider a compact ensuite (perhaps shower / whb / no loo) in Bed 5 - either where the desk is shown, or at the house corner and move the Master Ensuite (does it need a bidet? Would a shattaf be OK instead?) down slightly where there is room and the M.E. window round the corner (in two minds on this as that would make the road-facing elevation asymmetrical). I would make Bed 5 a potential alternative or second study wrt to sockets and lights etc. Make sure all the showers are large, and not like telephone kiosks. 5 - I think the lounge-dining works OK but if that is a woodburner it may be a pink elephant in a Code 6 house. Consider a flame effect gas fire or even electric, or spend the money on a lighting designer for your lounge diner to create an intimate feel? 6 - I think your biggest issue is that the hall / loo / utility / stairs area is not resolved enough, and could be a lot better. It feels a bit maze-y to me. There is a lot lost to circulation space in the hall and that dogleg walkway in the utility. I would: a - Put the hall-utility door by the kitchen, so that the utility walkway takes up less space and you only have doors in one corner. b - Straighten the wall between the utility and cloakroom, for me towards the utility so a shower can go in the cloakroom for disabled or frail guests etc. c - Put that inner-hall space into the Cloakroom, and use that as a coats and "things" (pushchairs, wheelchairs, golf clubs etc) area - could have a large closet, with a further door to the downstairs loo, into which I would put a shower as (b). As it is that circulation space is wasted. d -I would take away the wall between the stairs and the front door, so you get a more fluid space and the impact of the void above the stairs is your "wow" perceived on entry. e - I would consider moving the front door to the West or Centre within your 3 section door design and consider either making the staircase wider (ie open well between the two halves), or making it a 90 degree not a 180 stair to lead the eye into the void. That would increase your impact for minimum changes, but may need a bit of juggling with your door design. I think it would be grander and suitable for a large house such as this. f - I would make sure the stairs are at a more relaxed than typical angle - go for 34-38 degrees if you can, not 42. It makes a huge difference to the "feel". IMO insist on this. This should be a building regs not a planning matter. g - I would be more generous with my staircase windows, perhaps double or treble the width. That may affect your Code 6, however. 7 - I think you could reconsider your other windows at the front - at present there are too many different sizes, and I am not sure about the "tall and thin" subdivisions. To me that is not a suitable entrance face for this house. This would unfortunately involve returning to the planners. 8 - What is your provision for house-wide disabled / elderly access in future? This will become important. 9 - Do you need a snug? HTH - it may be more than you wanted but even for validating your decisions different suggestions can help; there is also a lot you could do within your PP if this is approved. Ferdinand
  14. 1 point
    If the distance between us wasnt so great I would say you had the same one as us! Maybe its a tactic that is common to men with diggers!
  15. 1 point
    Normal people do not build their own house!!!!!!!!!
  16. 1 point
    @TheMitchells Thank you! It's a bit of a drive from London, but will definitely explore. @ultramods thanks, glad we were thinking along the same lines and are well into the selection process you listed! Highlight of the Christmas family getaway was a visit to a Porcelanosa showroom ๐Ÿ˜ thought-provoking, indeed. Our provisional plans went up for a public forum beating earlier this week and the results were really helpful, working on amendments now! @Square Feet we are demolishing an existing bungalow we're currently living in, so the services are connected to the plot, so hopefully will not be much of a drama to disconnect and re-connect, and we're keeping services entry points almost at the exact spots as current. @recoveringacademic and @Ferdinand - believe me, we are reading it methodically (early stages), but I completely take your point! Nothing is more loathsome than newbies asking primitive questions for a 1000+'s time, can totally relate to the feelings it brings up :)) The only reason why I asked it (whilst reading everything else) was out of fear that there may be some crucial deadline I missed just because I have not yet read up to that page! Anyway, so far this is the friendliest forum I've seen in a long time, and I wholeheartedly intend to obey the rules and not irk the Masters and the Gurus :) bad for karma, they say! Everyone, thank you very much. Now back to reading....๐Ÿ˜Š
  17. 1 point
    For just a hand wash basin, how about a low volume storage water heater, typically anything from 10L to 20L and with a 3KW element or similar size. This sort of thing just as an example not a recommendation to buy. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10L-2kW-Under-sink-Water-Heater-by-ATC-3-sinks/142934692689?epid=2254439348&hash=item2147925351:g:OxYAAOSwnXpbl8P4
  18. 1 point
    Anglian Water recommend using 32mm above 40m. See page 8. https://www.anglianwater.co.uk/_assets/media/LED645_AW_DS_Connecting_10_steps_20pp.pdf
  19. 1 point
    I'd deffo go for a 22mm 'backbone' and drop to 15mm when you et to the last 2-3 outlets. What hot water device are you fitting? UVC?
  20. 1 point
    How long is the external pipe run from the mains to your property wall? There is an industry recognized threshold at which point 32mm is recommend, I think the number is 40m.
  21. 1 point
    25mm is a decent sized main for a domestic dwelling. You may be having extra bathrooms, but you'll likely not use them all simultaneously. If you think you will use them / have very high DHW demand then I doubt fitting a 32mm main to the existing mains ( street ) supply will make any notable difference TBH.
  22. 1 point
    Would incorporating a breakfast cupboard help tidy up the main worktops? https://www.pinterest.com/pin/359232507770073269/
  23. 1 point
    A new house AND Virgin Galactic tickets! You're spoiling them!
  24. 1 point
    We will be making sure our shower controls are far away from our shower head, no more wet arm turning it on in the morning.
  25. 1 point
    If I've understood Joe right, I think he's looking at something like a hot water tank that's mainly kept at an efficient ASHP flow temp (so typically no more that 40 deg C to prevent defrosting lowering the COP a lot) and then using a modulating instant water heater to provide the boost up to a good hot water temperature at the taps. Such a tank would need an anti-legionella boost every couple of weeks, to around 60 deg C or so. I can vouch for this working well, as it's our standby DHW system in the event the Sunamp PV doesn't get enough charge, or runs out of charge due to heavy hot water demand. The ASHP heats our buffer to around 35 to 40 deg C, and this then preheats the incoming cold main to 30 to 35 deg C. The modulating instant water heater then boosts this up to the 42 deg minimum acceptable temperature for us (I tested this, anything under 42 deg C and the shower's too cool, anything over 42 deg C just wastes energy by heating the water to a higher than needed temperature). One thing to watch is that all these modulating instant water heaters work in the same way; they control the power to the element by pulsing the heating element on and off, with a variable duty cycle at the mains frequency zero crossing point so they don't cause a lot of EMI. They do this to avoid the electrical noise that would be caused by phase control, and they use a low frequency to get a wide range of control and stay within the regs on flicker frequency and amplitude. However, if you have dimmable LED lighting, then you almost certainly will see some flicker when the heater is modulating. We only had one dimmable LED power supply in our house, in the WC, and it's how I know that the heater makes the LEDs flicker! I replaced the LED power supply with a wide voltage range, non-dimmable one and the problem went away. It's hardly surprising that there are small voltage fluctuations with these modulating heaters, ours is switching around 10 kW at a rate of a few Hz, and that's bound to cause a small pulsed voltage drop on the whole installation. The drop is within the limits allowed, but enough that something as sensitive as an LED, with its very fast response time, to be affected by, if it's not eliminated by the power supply.
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