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Use the 10% to get someone proper to them out

I've now read the report from the planning officer and it looks like he has covered everything. I reckon good chance it will be approved.

1. Yes the committee can decide either way. 2. Sometimes I feel sorry for the planning officer that has to think up "valid planning reasons for refusal" after previously supporting the application. Typically they try and think up as many reasons as possible that previously they may not even have mentioned. 3. At appeal it's an independent planning inspector who isn't connected to the council that makes the decision. Bit like a judge in a court case. I'm not sure planning permission is actually required to remove the fence and form a new access. I think it's only required on a classified road (A and B roads?). Normally on unclassified roads you only need permission for a Dropped Kerb which also gives you the right to drive across any footpath without committing a driving offense. Only other thing I can think of is that when your house was built there was a planning condition requiring a fence? If it gets refused I think I would appeal and submit a new application just to convert the garage and a separate Dropped Kerb Application. Perhaps check with a planning consultant in case I've missed something.

Do not scratch your Hep2O pipes and take them back if they come scratched. Line any penetrations through blockwork etc with conduit or foam insulation. Hep2O fittings seal onto the outside of the pipe using a rubber O-ring. There is a Hep2O lubricant designed for refreshing their fittings that could help with pushing pipes and reducing the chances of a scratch. I have ended up with a scratched pipe(s) that I can't replace with confidence that the new pipe won't get scratched, here are my thoughts as to what I could do: [Maybe] Light scratches may be OK though I am a bit nervous. I only have light scratches and smeared printing. Sometimes a leak occurs at lower pressures that at a high test pressure so I always test at multiple pressures. [No?] polishing the pipe with fine grit sand paper or wire wool. I don't think this is a good idea as it will reduce the OD of the pipe and that is where the O-ring seals so likely to be bad. Has anyone had success polishing scratches out of Hep2O or similar polymer pipe? [Maybe] Use a compression fitting with copper olive. I have heard bad things about using compression fittings with Hep2O ( @Nickfromwales ), but it may be better than the alternatives. Wavin don't approve any sealant, just recommending PTFE tape if needed. A selant manufacturer may state their product is OK for Hep2O though. [Promising] Pegler's plastic push-fit system uses inserts that seal on to the inside of the pipe rather than the outside. I don't think you could mix brands (different ID?, tolerances, etc), but this made me think of Euroconus fittings which are used for UFH, but you can get WRAS approved parts. They also seal on the inside of the pipe using one or more o-rings. You can get 15mm straight couplers that would allow a cut and splice approach. I am thinking of using 15mm Euroconus to attach to a Euroconus manifold which you can also get WRAS approved. The main downside I can see is that it constricts the ID on the pipe fitting. For a 15mm pipe (ID approx 11mm) I guess the Euroconus ID would be around 7mm. A 7mm orifice at 6 L/min drops 0.53 m of head [link] which is equivalent to about 4m of 15mm Hep2O, so not bad. There may be a tighter orifice in the manifold itself. I believe Wavin approve the use of Euroconus fittings with their pipe, so it should be a robust solution. Any advice or other possible solutions?

It can be as few as 2 or 3. Also, if the local councillor asks for it to be discussed, called 'calling in'.

Anyone who wishes to play devils advocate is more than welcome to knock themselves out Fill yer boots. A ridiculous risk afaic, and I would NEVER do this in a clients house, or anywhere else tbh!!! Self builders can do what they like to themselves, at their own risk, I am a business that services clients so I do not have that 'luxury'. I cannot say to my customers "It seems OK today, hopefully tomorrow will be the same, fingers crossed". Why the hell someone would spend their life savings on a one-in-a-lifetime self build and take these risks is beyond my simple level of comprehension. It would save me time and money, make my business more profitable, so ask yourself why do I not do this? Zero skin off my nose, but so cheap and simple to make this utterly bombproof I just wouldn't even consider "the alternatives". Why not? Lack of employing a few hands to the pump? When installing 500m - 1000m long trace heating wires into ammunition lockers on board RFA naval vessels we often had up to 20 or more staff all appointed with a turn or a change in elevation, and the cables all went in without issue, 2 feet at a time. Offer friends and family free beer and a BBQ and get the thing changed! The pipe can be changed, just avoid the issue that scratched it in the first place. You can buy cheap flexible conduit / similar and that's how I avoid scratching these pipes on my jobs, by using the same section (5-10m long or more) to create a slide for the pipe.

I'll wrap this up for you, as I do not have capacity to recall all the insurance jobs I've been through and everything in between. Apologies if this is a little concise. A 'plumber' with 30+ years of experience, now working mostly in 7 figure properties (very few have a 1 or a 2 as the first digit) is telling you something is a very bad idea, stop questioning it . Ringing a manufacturer to ask if there's a problem with their fittings / or a way it's fitted...........surprise!! They said it's fine. That's because their competitors spout the same shart and they want the sale. If I am saying you can avoid this with 50p worth of copper pipe and you wish to seek advice elsewhere then of course that is your prerogative, so, for the last time (please) do not do what you're suggesting. End transmission

Most likely because some objections were recieved. That's the policy in our area. If x number of objections are recieved it goes to committee.

Why is it going to committee when the planning department are in favour? Sorry if I have missed something. The ones I have followed around here, including my own, only went to committee if the local councillor (not the general public) had asked for that to happen. Be aware that the people who sit on planning committees are just ordinary people. The local councillors have some of them in their pockets and they all do each other "favours" which can be reciprocated at some time in the future. Do remember that you can take it to appeal at central government. It costs but mostly they seem to approve these small applications. As has been said the neighbours are all expected to complain but they must have a valid planning complaint. Our neighbours complained about our application but it was still approved. If you don't feel able to speak at the meeting see if you can find someone to do it for you. One of our architects spoke at ours. Just a calm, sensible, statement pointing out all the pros and addressing, if possible, the objections.

Either way round is fine.

you need a tony tray http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/tony.htm

Keep chasing them in writing, email is ideal. Your chasers need to set out precisely what the issues are and give them a reasonable deadline by which to fix them . Normally, 21 days is reasonable, but given you’ve already asked them, a final chance of 14 days would also be reasonable. Explain that if they don’t fix it within 14 days you will be forced to escalate the matter and take legal action against them for breaches of your statutory rights. Whether you actually bother to pursue this in the courts is an altogether different matter, but giving the tradesman the impression that you are willing to take it that far might be all that’s required.

I don't think you need to remove the window, just drill a small hole in the slider and put a screw in it, see pic

id be tempted to just lay the new stuff over the old.

Of course you are, quite normal, but we believe the balance is on your side. 👍

My take on that is that compression joints were designed for copper not plastic, I am sure they will work (and have ) but I would rather not take the risk.

And size it correctly in the first place. Of course it does help if manufacturers make products which are bomb proof, but at some point the installation industry needs to take some responsibility.

Why do you need multiple units just stop people splitting their heating system into a zone for each room. Just have enough water engaged all the time then no issue.

Does bead keep dampness in the outer skin. I guess it does, as any water will trickle down and away.

A cheaper option is to render with a mesh and base coat then thin coat render such as parex. Robust finish that can take water splashing!!

Thanks, Joe, for taking your time to reply to me and go through the comments. I am hoping for the best, but I never know what’s on the minds of the committee members. If they will go through the report submitted by the planning department, then there is a chance. I hope the committee also has a valid reason for refusing the application, isn't it? I will update how the committee went on. Myself and my wife are going to attend the committee meeting.

I dont know whst the rules are, but i would always use treated timber where there is any chance of damp. The extra cost isn't huge, it keeeps away woodworm too. As a compromise, the ends could have been treated on site. That woudnt be "impregnated" though. Bottom line: it's on the drawing. No insulation in the walls?

Never seen this on a drawing. Assuming they are built into the inner leaf of the cavity wall, it is the same as floor joists which are not treated. Just make sure the cavity tray is installed, then it will be fine.

No don’t, that’s what we are here for. Well I just read a few of the complaints (can’t be bothered to read them all) it’s just nimbyism (not in my back yard), the highways have no problem and the council appear on your side. Any objections have to have merit, I.E. point out planning flaws, not just “I don’t like it”. Crack on, yes it’s unnerving waiting fir a result (been there, done that over two years but won on appeal). Search your local planning website to see if anyone else has done similar and what arguments they used. So many people just don’t like others getting on and doing stuff 👍 let us know how you get on.

The plant room is central, kitchen on one side, bathroom on the other. So In think we already have already minimised HW delivery times. It could indeed go in the bathroom, but that would mean extra delivery time to the kitchen.

In the end we went with Norrsken, we are very pleased with the windows and the fitting team were excellent. A few snags remain to be sorted - they are due back next week. (We have not done the air test yet so that remains to be seen.) We chose them for some of the reasons you mention, EG roughly price equivalent & slightly better U values but our main reason was that they could do, and Rationel could not, the triangular opening (Turn before Tilt) we wanted at the front - so no glazing bars across the triangle and the glass to glass corner we wanted for our corner window.

That's only the case if youre altering the FIT accreditted system. If youre adding a second system, as the OP is, it doesnt alter the accreditation of the FIT system so no interaction with your FIT payer is needed. Different matter with the DNO who has to preapprove anything more than 16amp potential export, with potential being the important bit. Whilst you can say your battery pack is set to zero export, your DNO will likely need proof. In our case SPEN told me it would be £350 to come out and witness the export limitation was actually compliant with G100. That's on top of the G99 fee. No need for an MCS install to connect to the grid, just a part P spark

Thanks. It was done keeping in mind having a few cross ventilation options, and of course escape windows for the bedrooms. But most of the small ones will be fixed as we have MVHR and we are trying to be as airtight as possible.

Heating cycle of my ASHP

A little worse than a normal internal boiler, no worse than an external oil boiler, possible a lot better due to the lower flow temps.

Agree 100%. In hindsight, I should have used all 1.5mm2 and not mixed sizes. You'll only need to go a size up if there is anything > around 15A. For me, it was UFH mats that had the highest current, but because I used power distribution, rather than daisy-chaining all of the lives on the relays, amps were less of a concern. I splurged on a Weidmuller Crimp Set with a crimp tool, stripper etc, been invaluable. All connections into terminal blocks need ferrules. For all lighting, UFH, blinds, towel rails etc. you want different terminal blocks. I know exactly what's needed from the Weidmuller range for installation and power distribution terminals (after days of working it out) but don't know the Phoenix Contact or Wago ranges. Weidmuller (and the other manufacturers I think) actually have software which allows you to model the whole cabinet and all terminal blocks which is very useful and you can create placeholders for the Loxone kit too, to plan where these will go. Give me a shout if you want any of the Weidmuller details.

You only need chlorinated once you have over 100m ready to connect up. you also need to do it a maximum of 24hrs before connection if it’s chlorinated more than 24hrs they won’t connect. sounds like you can plan ahead and use the host house supply as long as possible. we were given 3 names from our water company and one, a small company, was happy to do it in 3 stages. They also made the trench wide enough for elec and BT. We only have the middle section dug in trench at the moment. wording from top of our invoice is ‘City & Guilds Qualified & Water Industry Approved Groundworker’ if that helps.

It's difficult to tell....as we have a lot of big sliders which we like to keep open. It only seems to occur middle of the night & always with a ' c3 ' displayed in bottom right hand corner which doesn't appear on any of the other boost modes.....

If you want to do the application yourself then UKPN have an online process called Smart Connect which you can sign up to as a homeowner. It does say on there that, provided you answer the questions and submit the correct information online then you should get an automatic approval for up to 5kW connection to the grid. In your case, as you already have a FIT export in place it's possible you won't get automatic approval but worth a try anyway.

The existing G98 covers the first 3.68Kw, this is the inverter capacity not the panel capacity as the inverter is an AC generator and the panels make DC. DNO does not want or need to know about DC generators only AC generators. So your new Sunsynk is an extra AC generator, even if set to nil export it will take you over the G98 into G99 as a potential nil export control failure could allow an export of over 3.68Kw. As the Sunsynk has the G99 cert then you have the option of a G99 Fast track application ie no need for attended testing of nil export controls. Regardless of a full G99 or Fast track G99 you have to have permission before any connection.

I'm kind of glad July hasn't been too warm, as its enabled me to get more done than i would have otherwise, but the rain has been the main issue, and surprisingly, hedgehogs which have been running all over the front garden, until they mysteriously all died, why i've no idea, felt very privileged having them here. First bit done whilst the hedgehogs were still around, the bit i've been wanting to do the most, around the boiler and gas box, where the worst damage to existing masonry was. June brought boiler service time of the year, so while the plumber was here, he fitted a new longer flue, and also a new gas pipe from the meter to the boiler, to accomodate the thicker walls. Around the flue, I have applied the required dual density rockwool wall board, heavy but really nice to work with, with the remainder done in the usual EPS. Fascia was also installed badly by a contractor many years ago, so i took the bad bits off to replace later on. Fascia repaired, brick slips applied and gas box has been resprayed and refitted. I still need to silicone around here and fit the boiler flue rubber, along with cutting the waste pipe down slightly to fit nice and snug. Rear of extension has been boarded, and mostly rendered, the top part is also fixed now, and just needs a render basecoat on, and brick slips. Front is also complete, and i have since popped a trim above the window to cover the foam, this also needs a bit of silicone when i get a tube. Below the DPC on all sections of EWI, i've got a tub of black render to finish this off, which i'm going to do all at once at the end. Really pleased i've managed to get this far, i've still got to take off 3 rows of tiles front and back of the original bungalow to put some mesh in to stop mice getting in the loft, ensure the insulation is bang on, and vented, replace the latts and felt and tiles back on, a nice autumn job i think when its a bit cooler still, minus the rain!!

This may be of interest to some. This is part of our quote for a new connection in Feb Description of reinforcement charges Install 1 substation £6,386.78 Reinforcement contribution -£3,832.07 (Our Cost Apportionment Contribution, as set out in our Terms and Conditions) Total reinforcement charges £2,554.71 Description of non-contestable charges Upgrade to 50kVA split phase transformer. Dismantle LV Pole 1A and LV Span. Erect a LV Stay. POC - LV Pole Termination POC and Network Assessment, Design Approval (where relevant) £185.00 Final connection £1,051.00 Inspection & Monitoring £2.00 Total non-contestable charges £1,238.00 ..................................................... and just received this when we asked for a revised quote in April Description of reinforcement charges Install 1 substation £7,850.46 Reinforcement contribution -£7,850.46 (Our Cost Apportionment Contribution, as set out in our Terms and Conditions) Total reinforcement charges £0.00 Description of non-contestable charges Upgrade to 50kVA split phase transformer. Erect a LV Stay POC 1ph line connection only. Dismantle LV Pole 1A and LV Span POC and Network Assessment, Design Approval (where relevant) £185.00 Final connection £1,418.36 Inspection & Monitoring £2.00 Total non-contestable charges £1,605.36 Note prices went up in April but we've saved a bit just by waiting for the April changes.

An update on this Got a moling company to deal with pipe replacement. It started well, the quote was reasonable and the weather was nice. And then they discovered a massive (3m by 2m+?) concrete "something" at the bottom of the garden, they couldn't find a way around it, goes almost under the conifers on the border. They suspect it's an old obviously unused septic tank. I was surprised that there is just about 50mm of soil covering it. It's not clear to me how the existing pipe / drainage was laid, maybe they were in first (but then why have a septic tank). Will have to come back with a digger to sort this out. Another grand on top of the quote - but has to be done. I did consider hiring my own but with possible utilities all around it feels too risky. And they said the existing pipe is steel.

Interesting point. Let me test it. But a crossover typically takes away 2 spaces in a suburban street due to turning circles. The neighbours can't use them or they are blocking the drive. Your theory only applies when the o p is already home with 1 car in rhe drive and 1 over the entrance. Any remaining spaces are first come first served. O p has 2 private spaces at all times. Others have 2 fewer to fight over.