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To begin with you have to wonder why ring finals are peculiar to the UK. Their origins go back to their introduction circa 1942–1947 and the materials shortages of the time. It was a crafty trick to effectively get more current through less copper wire. It makes it possible to supply twice the safe current carrying capacity of the cable to any given set of loads on the circuit due to current being shared across two cables: Topologically, every socket is being fed by two paralleled cables. Except when it isn't. If a screw works loose somewhere in the circuit, the ring can be broken - yet you might not know it as there may still be an intact connection to every socket from one direction. Now the ring becomes two radials but sod's law states that the tumble dryer, kettle and toaster all huddle together at one end of the break. And then the burning smell isn't necessarily the toast. A radial will have an MCB rated for the safe current carrying capacity of the cable it feeds and at no time can the cable be stressed beyond that limit. A ring final may become inadequately protected due to a (relatively common) defect.

I repeat it retrospectively in this case. Socket circuits, you only have to put ONE socket on each wall, then route the ring final cable horizontally around the room at socket height in the safe zone created, leaving a little slack in the cable at least at the ends. Then when you know where you actually want the sockets, cut the hole in the plasterboard, fish out the cable and connect the correct number of sockets in the right place. Experience says putting them in too early just means at least half of them are behind furniture, even worse half the socket is behind a unit........

Here you go, controller manual and technical details. If you search google for Maxa i-32V5, the user/install instructions come up in English. You need the installer password, which is 195 Controller-Manual-i-32V5.pdf Technical-Bulletin-i-32V5-1.pdf

Electric circuits - loads of them 👍 Sockets - loads of them 👍 Are they in the right place? 👎 "Oh but, I want that [...] there now, not where we planned it ..... soz .." Weak smile. "Needs an extension then dunnit. Grrrrr." Rinse repeat. I'm not prepared to admit how often I've smiled disingenuously , swearing under my breath, gone out to the workshop, got another extension out and fitted it. (6) Whassa point of asking what electrics she wants where at the design stage? None. None AtBloodyAll Wimmin change their minds all the foggin' time. Another self-build dream down the plug'ole innit. Phhhhhhhhhhhhh. Is it me - it is innit ....?

I think the hope here is installing batteries as part of a new build dwelling, batteries are automatically 0% rated due to no VAT on new houses, regardless of if any PV is ever installed. Problem is I can't see any way you can claim batteries are "ordinarily incorporated" into a new dwelling. Notice 708 by default excludes most electrical appliances, and a battery while being professionally is straight forward to take with you when you move. (It's about the same effort as a washing machine.)

You've got to be very careful. HMRC are very good at weaselling out of this. A quote from admin on HMRC Customer forums

Sorted it today. Fitted 40mm offset connector and mcalpine pan connector with 32mm branch on to which i have fitted an aav. Managed to road up from the manhole and cleared a large blockage. Hopefully its sorted, only just moved in in Nov so may have been a n issue for a while. All working fine now.

I should have twigged that one shouldn't i. Seeing as my handle is Post and Beam and thats the type of house i am hoping to build.

Schematic for my electrically isolated Raspberry Pi to ebus adaptor:

@AliG you beat me to it, so I'll preçis my reply. The current daily wholesale spot rate [see here] is 13.6p/kWh down from it's peak at 59p in September and back at hasn't been since Sept '21. A lot of suppliers took a bad hit and some failed because of capped vs supply pricing. We are with OVE who had a policy of back-to-backing their fixed price consumer pricing with fixed price supply contracts. This meant they could complete with the likes of bulb, but at least they weathered the crisis without totally draining their coffers which is why their current TIRs are more competitive than the likes of Octopus. I am just looking forward to the majors offering a ToD tariff to smart metered customers.

What is disgraceful is that the solicitors were allowed to run up a joint bill of £195K of legal fees on a £16K dispute. I don't see how that's even possible in the County Court (as opposed to the High Court). Both sides and the judge seemed to have completely ignored Civil Procedure Rules 44.4 (1): Factors to be taken into account in deciding the amount of costs 44.4 (1) The court will have regard to all the circumstances in deciding whether costs were – (a) if it is assessing costs on the standard basis – (i) proportionately and reasonably incurred; or (ii) proportionate and reasonable in amount, or ... see: https://www.justice.gov.uk/courts/procedure-rules/civil/rules/part-44-general-rules-about-costs#rule44.4

Trouble is, the scale of the problems means we all have to chip in. I would be happier if the Government increased basic income tax by 2p. I am sure I could cope with that, and anyone that earns more than me and @ProDave, could stop buying a coffee at 3 quid a cup, or knock a minute of the showering time. Really, 2p on basic rate is pretty small considering we have a £12k+ tax free allowance (thankfully frozen). I do think it is unfair that we each household has to bail out some bad energy companies. Not as if I bailed out Bon Marché, whose shops I had never entered, every time I buy some new knickers from Poundland.

It is added to the meter rental, which has doubled in most cases. Rather pisses me off that I am paying to bail out companies that attracted skinflints that wanted to save a few quid a year by buying energy of a company that had an unviable business plan. If a company offers a better deal than the major players in the market i.e. British Gas, EDF, then you have to ask where they are making the savings.

From the article There in black and white: the rationale for keeping your cool and focusing on your opponent's message, and not on how it's delivered.

Good stuff. Other countries have been doing it for decades.

I saw you post on this on another topic, and you concern about having to core lots of access holes. I am not sure what your problem was here. If this had been me, and I needed to run a lot of pipe runs through a block wall, then by far the simplest approach would have been to drill a set of vertical holes and bolster out half a block, then smooth out any rough edges with cement. Feed the runs through and use some short lengths (150mm or whatever fits) crossways in the hole to act as spacers in the hold to keep pipe separation. Pack with mineral wool when all done to create the fire break. Job done. Saving a couple of runs to the manifold at the cost of all then extra jointwork local to each room makes absolutely no sense to me, as it involves extra effort and cost. Sorry but this is flawed reasoning IMO. The Hep2O type pipes have a practical life of maybe 50 years. Earlier failures nearly alway occur in the fittings. That's way the BRegs say that these should always be accessible. By having each appliance / tap on its own unjointed pipe run with the only fittings at end appliance and at manifold, you don't have any hidden fitting within the building fabric. As to running buried pipework, the same rule applies as for electric cabling: only run directly horizontal or better vertical direct to the nearest floor / ceiling void; in the case of Pex pipework, mark run with aluminium tape so that it will be picked up by a cable/pipe detector. Also given that most drill-through accidents occur when someone is adding wall fittings after the house is built, the critical number here is not the 3:1 that you mention, but how many buried tails you have and this basically the same for both approaches. In my case even if shit does happen, and I do drill a tail, then one twist at the manifold immediately isolates that one run, so I have one tap or whatever out of commission until the repair is done, rather than the whole room. PS. I was just chatting about this with Jan, and her comment was "I can see where he is coming from; if we'd had a conventional build without decent floor voids and service cavities, then I have been tempted to do likewise so long as the room manifold were all easily accessible". So maybe I am being a bit too evangelical about 1-1 plumbing. 🙃

UK workplace electrical deaths- USA So 5x the population and 30x the deaths at work. For total electrical deaths per year the UK averaged around 10-12 for the years 2012-17 https://www.ons.gov.uk/peoplepopulationandcommunity/birthsdeathsandmarriages/deaths/adhocs/009176numberofdeathswheretheunderlyingcausewasexposuretoelectriccurrentbysexandfiveyearagegroupengland2001to2017 France apparently averages around 40 and they have been complaining about people using hair dryers in bathrooms and apparently a new issue of using your phone in the bathroom while plugged into the charger. https://www.connexionfrance.com/article/French-news/French-consumer-agency-DGCCRF-warns-against-danger-of-bathroom-device-use-due-to-electric-shock The UK has very strict safety standards and seems to benefit. It is actually something we should be proud of.

Readily available [other retailers are available], Towels | M&S (marksandspencer.com)

I have 2 ducts which pass through a double wall (block cavity construction) from the loft into a vaulted ceiling, and these needed intumescent seals, as the wall is classed as a fire wall.

You cannot plug curling tongs or a hairdryer into a pull cord.

Is this the problem you need to solve..... ? How to seal - waterproof - the gap between the bottom of the cladding and (probably) the path round the house We used Ubiflex. Its good stuff. Bit expensive, but cheaper than lead.

You have to consider the best solution for the most important issue which is the roof of the extension. It needs at least 200mm of rigid or 400mm of fibre insulation and to make it 100% effective it needs to be continuous on the outside of the structure. To do this with a flat roof means adding 200mm to the top of the existing roof. Insulation between rafters won't cut it as you'll be recreating a cold roof with all the ventilation and efficiency problems. For this reason you need to consider an apex roof which will provide enough room for you to build it up as a warm roof (or decently insulated cold roof). You can de-construct the sloping section of the original roof over the bedroom and carry the slope along to cover the extension. You could 'fly' the roof over the cutaway corner to make a little covered area (corner post or cantilevered) if you don't want to extend out into the corner. You can do a cross hip roof (adapt this example picture to suit)

Probably not but speak to youre supplier as they may have a standard fitment. I think its mentioned above that net metering is part of the smart meter spec and that's what a bit of googling suggests too. It seems a great way to avoid MCS cost and get "paid" for all your export at the same rate charged for import. Just the cost of a 3 phase upgrade to fret about but it seems a no brainer for a new build if available

None if your building is two floors or less. Good practice tho to seal any penetrations between floors etc. A lot of units will have a fire damper option, you'd need to connect whatever terminal there is for the function to your smoke alarms.

Thanks for your replies all. Bit of context: This is a new build, so the panels are going up (integrated into the roof) fairly soon. The array is 8kw spread across an E/W roof - roughly 1/3 on the E and 2/3 on the W. @SimC I had a look at PVGIS, but I couldn't figure out how to change the roof direction from South facing to East or West. Is that the figure in the box labelled Azmuth? I don't know how to express the direction in degrees, so any wisdom you can share on this would be great, thanks! Thanks for the comments about the phases and net metering. The 3 phase supply was installed last year by Western Power - their preferred choice for all new properties apparently. We have a digital meter on the outside of our workshop, adjacent to the house. I have gone back to the supplier of the quote to ask more questions about the inverter and phases - i.e. what his thinking is around this, and have cast the net to some other local suppliers for quotes to see what they propose. We don't yet have a smart meter - in order to get the supply connected we just went with the first company that could give us a reasonably short date for this - British Gas - many others were unable at that time to even commit to a date at all in late 2021. We plan to move our supplier to Octopus or Ovo, although we're a bit concerned that it might take quite some time to get a smart meter installed, judging by others' experiences here. For reasons of budget, we are not going to go with the batteries at this point, but will design the system to take batteries so that we can install them further along the line. The electrician we have chosen to do the electrics in the new house has no experience with solar panels, so we think we will have to find someone with this expertise to help to design the system, then to have our electrician fit it. I'll have a look at the posts that DanF referred to, and will do some more googling. I previously joined a forum for electrical and electronic engineers (in order to be able to negotiate with Western Power over the cost of the connection), so I may pose the question about phases and metering on there to see what pops up. Any knowledge I gain, I will bring back over here. Cheers, Omnibuswoman

Im attaching version 2 of the model which addresses a factor previously omitted and mentioned earlier in this thread, namely that the delta T across the emitters will vary as the load varies, unless the pump speed adjusts to compensate. As I surmised this makes a small difference, but doesn't affect the general trends. The main findings in summary are this: WC makes about 25% difference at 55C, 20 at 50C, 15 at 45C, 10 at 40C and 5 at 35C (all flow temps) A linear approximation to the perfect WC curve degrades the performance by 2% or less The 'Lizzie' adaption to a linear WC curve (whereby the flow temp never falls below 37C) degrades the performance by between 1% (at 55C) and 6% (at 40C). Obviously this adaption makes no sense at 35C A 1C uplift to the WC curve degrades performance by 2-3% The degradations above can more or less be added together The simulation is based on radiators, it can be adjusted for UFH by changing the emitter coef. (to 1 I am told). Hope this is of interest WC Simulationv2.xls

@NickfromwalesIt was a one off on eBay, there is a 9kW still there. Item number 266070280966 The seller got them direct from Italy, as the postage bits were still on the packaging. I paid £300 less than the original asking price on eBay.

I don't understand your rationale here. We have one run per appliance fitting, so for example our bathroom has 3 cold feeds (toilet, bath, basin) and 2 hot.; our ensuites ditto but shower instead of bath. At @Nickfromwales suggestion we used Hep2O for all radial plumbing. The pipe is relatively cheap and there are no hidden joints so the only real chance of a leak is if a pipe is directly holed, but it this case every fixing is separately isolatable at the manifold. We layed out our house so that most plumbed rooms backed onto a central core so that most runs were short and it was a lot more convenient for us to run each pipe run direct to the fitting. I did all of the copper-work and soldering for the service cupboard, and Jan and I split the rest between us, with me usually acting as the labourer. The pipe runs were pretty direct in within the ecoJiost space and only a short vertical run up the service cavity to each fitting. We've got a kitchen, utility, bathroom and 3 ensuites but doing the pipe runs was a relatively small part of the total job. Still doing this all ourselves meant that we saved a lot of labour costs and did everything to the quality we wanted. If you have only one feed to your bathroom, say, then you need to have an accessible mini-manifold hidden somewhere in the bathroom and then take local runs to the appliances. This can be a PITA to run if the fitting isn't directly adjacent to the mini manifold. The pipe costs about £1.50/m in coils, so using a per room manifold approach might has saved us maybe £10 per room. Just not worth the hassle and extra fittings and plumbing. See other examples on the forum for this type of installation. Nick has posted some lovely examples. Having got used to ours, I would never go back to not having one. We use soft water for everything other than cold drinking water. It makes better tea and coffee, since the Ca and Mg salts in the hard water sediment out a lot of the nice flavour molecules (that's what forms the scum on a cup of tea if you use unsoftened water. The change isn't really noticable either way for other cooking. We keep a jug of cold water and a few sparkling water (Sodastream) in the fridge which I top up with a large jug drawn from the one tap that is plumbed to the hard side of the softener. The main advantage of the soft water is no tide marks on the whiteware and glass screens and no scaling on cookware and kettles; also no scaling on your HW cylinder and TMVs that are in a lot of appliances and feed to the manifold, so everything is maintenance free for far longer. Researching other self-builders experiences here on the forum and on similar resources might help. It certainly saved my bacon quite a few times on our build, and my time doing this proved to be time well spent. Anyway best of luck on your journey. 😊

It works like this if the inverter supports it, yes. Not all inverters support this though. Also the correct term is "vector sum metering" I think. Net metering typically refers to a tarrif which has the same price for import and export. This approach doesn't need a hybrid inverter specifically, it can also work with AC-coupled batteries and with component-based systems. I know it works with the following: - Tesla Powerwall (using Gateway) - Sonnen - Victron (with an inverter per phase). I think it might work with Solis hybrid inverter, but couldn't get a clear answer from them. Also couldn't get a clear answer from LuxPower. Importantly the electiricty meter that use used (connected up to powerall, sonnen or victron) also needs to measure using vector-sun.

I thought we determined that all UK 3-phase smart meters do (or at least should) use vector-sum metering. I haven't actually looked at mine and tried to determine if it is using vector-sum metering or not though. I guess you'd ask your electriciy supplier, but beware that you might get some strange looks when you ask about "vector sum" from a lot of people. I found that varous PV/battery suppliers I talked to didn't understand this either. Our meter is a Octopus installed "Sprint 211".

Thanks, Cool Energy sent me an anode with my stainless steel tank so I installed it.. might just be wasting my electricity but it has a little control box which indicates as and when it wears out. Sorry for thread hijack.

You mean dismantle and take a piece of frame off a third door, and splice it at the diagonal?

This is correct. When you bring battery storage into the mix it gets a bit more interesting though, as ideally, if you are using 8kW on phase 1 but the inverter can only cover 3kW you want to export 5kW on the other phases to compensate for the 5kW import on phase 1. This is why I asked the OP about how they will load the phases, because if loads are spread across phases and battery storage is planned, then IMO it's important to install a solution that supports this phase compensation.

Retrospective Professional Consultant Certificate. UK Finance website should give you more details about PCC's. They are the new name for Architect Certificates

Plenty of 8kw 3 phase sunsynk inverters listed on the ENA type test database but the only one listed as a hybrid isnt approved so shouldn't be connected to the grid. Probably want to ask the installer about that!! It's been mentioned on here before but if the OP has a 3 phase smart meter, or can get one fitted, then they could well have net metering so its largely irrelevant how the 3 phases are loaded as import and export are offset against each other. As I understand it PV export on any phase cancels out import on any phase to give a net consumption that you get billed for. No MCS needed to get "paid" for your export at a very lucrative equivalent rate. Hopefully someone who knows about 3 phase net metering will confirm?? Another thing for the OPs spark to look into.

As others have said, you really need to understand how your 3 phase supply is going to be utilised and what electrical loads will be presented on each of the 3 phases. It may be a legacy use of the property that powered 3 phase motors/machinery. For example a 3kW 3-phase motor will put an even 1 kW load on each phase, whereas a 2 kW 1-phase washing machine will put the full 2 kW load on 1 specific phase based on which it is wired to. Another brand of 3-phase inverter mentions being able to cope with out of balance loads across the 3-phases, with up to 5 kW output on 1-phase from an 8 kW inverter. https://midsummerwholesale.co.uk/buy/solax/solax-x3-g4-fit-8-tp30 Another consideration is the location of the grid incomer (plus utility meter) in relation to where the inverter will be located. The inverter will require a suitably rated power cable, along with a data cable to it's own 3-phase meter. This is so the inverter knows what loads are present on each phase and also once a battery is added what output it needs to provide in order to target zero grid import which minimises your bills. If you want to be paid for export, the installer will need to be MCS approved and provide a certificate for your installation along with DNO approval for connecting the system to the grid.

It's not just about your 3-phase supply. It's also important to consider: - Do you need to be able to export from PV on all three phase in order go beyong 3.68kW/phase limitation or is DNO happy for you to export 8kW on a single phase? - Will you house loads be all on a single phase, or will they use all three phase?

I share your uncertainty about the 3-phase credentials for the inverter. The user manual is not an easy read but I did try. For about 5 pages. From what I can see (I'm no expert) it looks like you have been quoted for a single phase invertor that can be configured with two others for a three phase configuration, with one inverter on each phase. Perhaps that explains the single phase meter. If your quote is for a single phase inverter and 8 KW of PV attached to one phase then I think that would exceed the DNO limit of 4KW per phase. I'm sure someone will be along soon who knows what they are talking about and give a better informed answer. I hope so as our requirements are very similar.

Starting with the solar panels part, REC is the manufacturer with a good reputation for reliable products. If they are installed by an 'REC Pro Installer' then you get a 25 year warranty on the panels that includes the labour costs to swap out any that fail. Check this link for your local installers. https://www.recgroup.com/en/installers/search The GSE integration is a mounting system for the panels that fixes directly to the roof slats, so the panels become part of the weather proof cover for the roof with the edges filled in with normal roof tiles. Presumably this is for a new or replacement roof project. With 22 x 365 Watt panels, the peak output in Summer with all at the optimum slope angle on a South facing roof would be 8030 Watts (8.03 kWpeak). But is your roof area all South facing, and big enough to contain all 22 panels, or do you have East and West roof areas big enough for say 10 and 12 panels? To cater for different alignment of roof areas, the inverter has 2 string inputs that operate independantly to optimise the output of the connected panels. So you could have say string 1 of 10 panels for the East roof, and string 2 of 12 panels for the West roof. You can get a prediction of the panel performance for your location and roof layout by using this calculator:- https://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvg_tools/en/ Choose your location, even down to your street level. Input the PV peak power (all 8.03 if all facing in the same direction). Slope = angle of roof from horizontal. Azimuth = angle from due South (East = -90, West = +90) Click the 'Visualise results' button to see the predicted kWh output per month. Run the report twice with different PV peak power and azimuth if you have 2 roof areas, then add the monthly results together.

Googling your inverter and the spec says it can operate on 3 phase. Your quote only has a single phase generation meter so did you ask for a 3 phase PV system and the supplier has made a mistake? Plenty of info on the web but make sure your looking at UK web sites!! If youre not too confident with electrics, you might be best paying your electrician to come and explain your house wiring before you go looking at PV. PV install and wiring will likley make much more sense if you have a grasp of how your house electrics work.

Why do you say that? The house clearly has poor air quality, insufficient ventilation at the moment. So some improvement is necessary. Dehumidifiers will remove most of the excess moisture so will cure the most noticable issue, the condensation, at the expense of needing electricity to power them and generally being noisy irritating things. But that does not cure the poor air quality. for that you need proper ventilation. I keep seeing people recommend DMEV or PIV for this, but all that does is blow in fresh cold air or suck out stale air with the same amount of cold air being sucked in any way it can. Neither have heat recovery so while they will improve the air quality, they will cool the house / increase heating required. Yes for sure for best results you want an air tight house. But I don't understand the logic of saying mvhr is a waste of time if the house is not air tight. If you do fit mvhr to a leaky house, at least some of your ventilation will benefit from the heat recovery. Balance the system properly so you are not pressurising or depressurising the house and little else will enter or exit through all the leaks except perhaps on a windy day. I would certainly say if you get the chance go ahead with mvhr. Since I appear to be in the minority here, I await incoming.

Catching up on the comments. Firstly yes more than happy to take feedback, its good to get alternate views. Why glass at front? - Yes front area will be the useable garden - a courtyard garden south facing, so we want to make the most of the view from in the living area. Why so much on ground floor with limited upper floor? - A couple of reasons, 1. we dont want to overpower the existing property as we will be selling that once build is complete so key to have minimal impact (on reslae value whilst delivering what we want in new build). 2. We will move into the new build and expect it to be where we will live out our later years, so ensuring we will have all we need to be comfortable on the groundfloor should stairs become an issue. Large living space? - yes its big! Today we have Kitchen,+dining room plus a Living room which together make a similar size, We have big furniture! We are also doing more detail on how to best use the space and maximise Kitchen furniture. The planning pictures are for planning approval and dont reflect how the internal furniture will necessarily be placed Narrowness of corridor on bedroom block? - Good point I hadnt really considered it as narrow will revisit. Please keep the comments coming

Can I just echo @Papillon,s comment @Nytram, appreciate you weren’t asking for layout feedback - I also love huge open plan spaces they look amazing in warehouse & factory conversions and in magazines but they often have high ceilings and assume you ceiling height is normalish domestic heights. As @papillion suggests the likes of a lowered seating pit could give you best of both worlds open plan but with some seating intimacy to prevent it from feeling like an airport lounge or a bland open space. Internal glass walls those with metal black framed ones could even be an option. Or recessed ceiling areas all that with a single flat ceiling could look…uninteresting. Bad interior design choices in that space eg small dining table, could make it feel….weird. Good choices could make it look amazing. This is not a cheap build as you know you so maybes worthwhile investigating getting some internal 3d rendering done I’m sure there must be software to help ascertain natural light levels in the centre of the room. Too late to change once it’s built. If you are committing to that open space perhaps a sensible precaution would be to ensure UFH runs, switch and socket location etc are configured to allow you to easily install internal walls in obvious places in the future. Effectively future proofing should you have any regrets once you actually live in that space. just some wee observations 2nd opinion for thought. The rear corridor ground floor is very narrow unbefitting an impressive house. You can easily make that wider stealing some space from the already generous bed 2 & bathroom. No internal door between entrance hallway and main living space? ok with that ? you could have some lovely impressive full ceiling height glass doors. enough shoe and coat storage at entranceway? Not sure you have TBH. your money / your house of course….

I couldn't have put it more eloquently 😀

By way of an update - And, a warning to others on the site. The installer has been paid 60% of the total cost for the job in Nov and Dec (Tens of thousands of pounds). He has obviously not passed all of this on to the supplier but spent a fair proportion of it, implying major cash flow issues, then panicked and asked for another 8K in VAT when we were not due it and would never have seen it again had it been paid. He then came back again, saying unless we paid the FULL BALANCE of the whole supply/install by 4pm that day, the windows and doors would not be loaded on the lorry in Poland. We then contacted the supplier directly, in an attempt to pay the balance of the materials and expedite delivery, but they refused direct payment and backed up their installers position, stating he was a "trusted partner". The position now is that the supplier will not answer our emails or telephone calls, referring us to sort it out with the installer, the installer continues to demand the whole balance by tomorrow and is unable to take a credit card payment to protect our outlay. We are, effectively, being extorted. We feel that, if we pay the balance in full tomorrow, we will be left with a lorry load of kit dumped on our site and will never see the installer again. At no stage has any customer service or consideration been anywhere near this transaction. We are simply left, pondering legal action, with our build on hold. The supplier of the windows/doors is a major European company based in Poland. Their agent is based in Central Scotland. If anybody wants details at this stage, PM us and we are happy to share. We are consulting solicitors re: hitting social media and going public.

All interesting points of discussion, thanks. I’ve solved the problem for now by flying somewhere warmer, dryer, and with better building quality 🤣 Back in the hateful UK end of the week though. Back to looking at the solutions to this problem.

No. But whatever they do, it's likely to be overpriced. Here's why