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You'll just need an inspection point every 22mts, depending on situation. And one within 12m of the public connection. I'm assuming you own all the land and have enough fall etc. This is Northern Ireland btw. Check your applicable BC documents.

Provided you are a Domestic Client (thats really important) your project is NOT notifiable. Here's the definitive guidance. (HSE). For further reassurance you can also read this thread on this board (about CDM 2015) @nod's point about keeping the site secure is the key issue for you, I would think.

If the top picture is thermal output and the lower picture electrical input, then yes, not very good at all, a CoP of: 7983 / 4474 = 1.78 If you have really only used ~8,000 kWh since it was installed, a 12 kW heat pump seems rather large. At full output it means it has only run for 665 hours, but even at half output it is only double that, 1,330 hours. Does it switch on and off a lot (short cycling) and do you know your flow temperatures and if there is a buffer tank fitted?

Put detailed PP in for your bungalow in the garden, when it's approved fence off the plot, then put in PP for your own extension.

No Don’t risk it next week Far to frosty Low temps do less harm than higher temps with frost We are cementing a ver large hotel kitchen at the moment Ready for tiling next week I’ve insisted that a heater be left on overnight Id give it a week

You've been bleating about charges having just been introduced, I show you something that shows you charges have been in place since at least 2014 and that's the best response you can do. Answering with something like " oh I hadnt realised" might have done done a bit for your credibility. I'm out of this futile discussion. Sorry for the derail Umer

No problem. Keep reading. No. Without an effective vapour barrier and airtight seal, you might have big issues. You keep saying you don't want to create a warm roof but that's almost what you're doing - the sort that cowboy builders make and home owners discover, years later, is growing mushrooms under the decks. I suppose you could argue that the PIR is just like having thicker mineral wool, although the later provides free passage to vapour, but you intend to board over the insulation and this is where the real problems lie. The vapour needs a good amount of air circulation to transport it to the outside. Even in a heated and ventilated room, looking behind furniture next to walls you may find signs of mildew simply because of restricted ventilation in those areas. The outside temperatures you'll find in lofts amplify this effect enormously. It's not uncommon to go up into a loft space and almost immediately have drips of condensation fall from the underside of the roof as the warm air from the house rises up to it. If your detailing is not correct then this effect is taking place 24/7 throughout the heating season and it's the cumulative effect that will begin to cause problems. I related elsewhere how I had put a large sheet of 100mm celotex up into our loft in preparation for cutting and fitting to the back of the loft hatch. I put it up there laid flat across the top of the fiberglass insulation. After it had been there a while and I finally got around to the job, I was amazed at how much mildew had developed on the underside of the celotex and what a swampy mess the fiberglass was in below. Vapour passing through the plasterboard ceiling could not escape to the air circulating in the loft so condensed on the foil surface of the insulation.

Of course, it is but they're also taken the piss. They wouldn't offer the discount unless challenged or requested and then offering an extra 30/35% just means in my humble opinion that their tactics are back to the old ways of white gold and their initial markup is sky high. It gives us all a bad name tbh, those who are trying to be upfront and honest with a fair but honest markup are the ones suffering the most.

Exactly what do you think the DNO does with a G99 application....read one form and nothing else?? In my case SPENs engineer dug out the archive details of our supply. Accurately measured cable runs from satellite images. Ran a number of calculations based on a variety of assumed overhead and undergound cable sizes. Dug out pole mounted transformer details. Called me twice and wrote 2 technical emails. All of that was within a few days of an informal enquiry from me and without me paying a penny. The fee became payable when all the work theyd already done needed formalizing for them to then price up the reinforcement needed which was FOC to me. I think you are living in cloud cuckoo land if you think a commercial organisation should do that for free

they come in different lengths, measure the distance from the face of the door to the centre of the hole which the square spindle goes through and buy the same length.

@marvin from the detail in your post, i'm perfectly happy to put you in the "rich" category. You're welcome to fill in https://ifs.org.uk/tools_and_resources/where_do_you_fit_in (and an equivalent for household wealth if needed) if you disagree. Curious how blind people can be to their own financial position. If you're spending, I dunno, 8K on solar and 10-50K on an EV, the chances of an extra £300 in admin fees dissuading you from going ahead on those purchases are basically nil.

Not for the main build - I had a contractor in to do all the main works and under the CDM rules he assumed role of contractor. I was client. I assumed role of contractor/designer along with client when the main build ended and I was getting individual trades in and paying them directly. Make sure you get this all agreed in writing when the main works start. So anybody on site working is your builder's responsibility.

Here's a relevant doc from 2014 talking about charges in section E https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.spenergynetworks.co.uk/userfiles/file/8_G59%2050kW%20Full%20June%202014%20v2.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjwzqLUzun7AhXYg1wKHWweD-o4ChAWegQIGRAB&usg=AOvVaw3jnrnxUCogZAlulqhDPPE9 If youve got "grandfather rights" for your system why all the fuss

To have a grid connected system you have to completed G98 install certificate. If you don't you need to do it. Then you just use that. Simple

Your assessor needs to read the SAP conventions. Section A2.12 here (depending which version of the conventions this number may be different but this evidence requirement has been valid for many years)

Hmmm if it looses communication it doesn't know how much is being exported so wouldn't be able to export limit, it would just have to shut off the output altogether. Further, if the CT clamp is removed from the outgoing tail and placed somewhere else, no error will be raised (as communication is still intact) thus it will allow full export as the invert is then blind to what's happening I agree the degree of export due to polling time lag is negligible, however these points do contradict your prior claim that it is impossible for an export limited inverter to export.

My spark did up a single page safety test certificate. NCICS template I think. Standard stuff. Has all the details on it.

I think i read not long ago that you had to have accessibility, (manhole) within 20m of a connection to a local authority sewer. Might be worth checking.

Does this question mean can the inverter divert power to the battery during the day IF the battery is ORIGINALLY set up to take night-time electricity ?

Thanks for that explanation @Radian

Posi joists getting wet isn’t a problem They will dry out As long as they are stored off the ground they will be fine You could put them on spats 4x2 and throw a tarp over

Your combined usage figures are the total of day and night, but what periods do those relate to? Assuming those figures are average power in Watts for 15h/day time 9h/night time then in Jan/Feb you consume 9kWh in the day and 3kWh during the night. I don't know where in the world you are but in the Northern Hemisphere a 4.9kW system might deliver 5 or 6kWh on a good day. A 3.3kWh battery might have to be charged exclusively on off-peak and you would have to self consume all 6kWh while the Sun was shining - and you're still coming up short. Off peak you can cover your night time baseload as well as charging but the tricky time will be evening when all 3.3kWh might go in a couple of hours or less. I think you need at least 10kWh battery.

You will be fine, concrete generates heat as it is curing. Really low temps that can or would cause flash freezing at the surface would be an issue but in Uk no problem

He may be spending a couple of weeks as a cuckold, only reason to take your own to the West Indies.

I like pickle as much as the next guy but I wouldn't go that far!

As long as the fall is right then no problem with 50m

Hi there LaCurandera, grateful for this idea- I've gone through your reply, adapted your thinking, & DONE IT! Well, I "walked" the latch out mm by mm with huge force inwards.. finally.. getting a sliver of a knife under the end of the latch. Rammed knife through. The latch was still under strong spring tension, so I was battling this mainly. Minor damage to frame, bracket thing, & door whacking in wedges to give me every mm. JesusH. Huge effort. So now door open. And handles do not move the latch, as expected. So gotta strip the thing down to figure out why latch & the square bar have become disconnected. This was my lowest bar of dignity today. Suffice to say I tried to 'hold it in & drive to town', but no way. Oh ffs. Then lowest bar of all. Yes....... I shat meself. Then on Im not fkn telling you- no way. A very poor day for me. Zoot.

Not true. Even if you turn on export limitation, it uses periodic sampling so has a time delay between noticing that there is export happening and modulating the output downwards. There's a reaction time lag. I can easily see this these momentary spikes using an alternative current monitoring device. So at times, it does indeed export. Furthermore it's far from infallible, and any communication failure from the CT clamp to modbus meter to inverter would leave it in permanent export state. So it's absolutely possible to export even with export disabled.

Point the fan heater away from her 🤷‍♂️, or get an oil filled rad.

I think what your wife is actually complaining about is the fan. Blown air will dry you (or the clothes on a line) much faster than still air. In summer a fan is cooling because it blows away the moister air close to your body so your skin can evaporate more sweat, which cools you. With a fan heater blowing air over you, you get the same drying effect but because the air is hot you don't notice the cooling. But you may feel the drying.

And Ill ask yet again, how are you going to prove that? All the DNOs want is a bit of dialogue with you to ensure that your claimed safe system is actually that.

Here's a link to a good few spreadsheets for you to peruse. We're at the end of our build: the most important thing for us was to make the time to update the spreadsheet regularly: it almost doesn't matter which sheet you start with - you can adapt it to your needs as you go. But tiredness got in the way..... I wish I'd thought to create a spreadsheet that could be easily updated on my phone as well as on my PC and tablet. I should have made the spreadsheet simpler.

Yes as above tell EPC guy he is wrong.

Installation details and PVGIS expected generation, plus electricians sign off just to be safe.

Make and exact model number of panel along with number of panels installed is normally sufficient if not installed under mcs

The DNO is interested in safety of the grid, which includes controlling whats connected to it for the benefit of everyone. You might see them as a pain in the butt but consider a couple of scenarios that G98/G99 ensure dont become problems. One of your family needs sensitive medical equipment and has some in the house. Living down your street are a load of reckless PV cowboys who've connected 10s of KW of PV without giving a hoot about what it might do to the neighbours medical equipment. Sunny day in June and the cowboys PV export pushes the voltage way past the UK limit and your medical equipment shuts down. Another scenario. Same PV cowboys install cheap Chinese inverters that aren't type tested and no one checks because theres no G98/G99. Turns out they dont actually disconnect from the grid when theres a power cut. Come the first daytime power cut and the repair linesmen find theres still 240vac on the faulty lines because of the PV cowboys inverters. Despite having the option to earth the live lines they decide to investigate the source before making a repair. The power is off to your house for significantly longer than it need be until they find the PV cowboys non compliant inverters and shut them down. Both hypothetical scenarios but you'll hopefully see that theres more to G98/G99 than DNOs just being awkward

As long as they are in decent condition, they will be saleable. Roof tiles are in a shortage at the moment with very long lead times. I used reclaimed tiles on my recent extension. There are reclamation yards who deal in roof tiles too, they may well purchase at a reduced price and collect them from you, worth a phone call if you have no luck selling privately.

You're wrong. When you take out a contract for your electricity supply, the contract is a legal document and you will find that you are only entitled to import power, and may only export power with consent. This is because the networks just can't handle arbitrary amounts of power. The G98 certificate covers installations that do not create a challenge by virtue of being limited to 3680W. This is a bit like diversity in reverse. The sizing of cables and transformers can be expected to cope with this amount of power being simultaneously consumed from a substation. When more generation is proposed, the G99 application has to be submitted and assessed in order to ensure that the network infrastructure is up to it. Hence the application may be rejected for good reason.

@umerDiamond core cutters aren't cheap but once you've got one jobs like this are suddenly rather simple.

Well done!

That’s great news. Well done.

If it's a Mr. Cool pre charged system and you can comfortably run the condensate drain and electrics to the unit then it might be two hours. A mate did one for a converted garage he lives in. But installers are assuming they'll need an electrician and possibly a plumber in addition to their services, travel, call out charge and any other physical obstacles that might delay them and require returning to site to fix any issues. And insurance, pension etc. Lots of overheads for even a small job for a single A2A unit. I always start out thinking a DIY job is simple but am regularly surprised by how much detail and effort it actually takes!

Welcome. Passive house priciples are great, but there are diminishing returns. Hence most on here, as you, say ---ish. Build quality is the main thing. There is so much on this site...get delving. Searching on Google seems to work better than the bh search itself....eg search for " buildhub passivhaus" or whatever the spelling is. And please tell us more about your intentions.

Another icf builder here, done 95% myself, even the architect bit, if you don’t want a passive house badge out side then stop using that term. You want to build a highly insulated, very airtight house with low thermal bridging. Its all in the details, floor to wall junction. Wall to roof junction. Window fitting. No gaps. Thats it, don’t let trades ruin what you have achieved by telling them the level of care you want, if they don’t get it find someone else.

Hi, welcome. We just built a 350m2 passive-ish house with ICF. Top tip is find an architect / architectural technician who is familiar with PHPP, building low energy homes, airtightness etc. No point paying twice, especially if not going for the £2k plaque on the front of your house.

@Gus Potter @saveasteading @ETC We are aware there are many professionals on here and generously give their time and advice on the forum. To that end there is a clear statement in the terms and conditions 6.3 We do not verify, confirm or accept any responsibility for any of the information, advice or material posted in any section of the website. If you use any of the information, advice or material posted you do so solely at your own risk. I regularly put on my posts that members should take professional advice - an Internet forum is neither regulated or guaranteed !!

Let's say you can build it yourself for £1k/m2. That does not include your labour as a cost, and you will be very good at avoiding waste. Add 50%....£1.50. Allow for using a series of building trades instead. Add 25% for their costs and risks. £1.90. A main contractor adds another 20%...£2.30. Then there may be a PM. But let's now say the spec is a lot higher. That £1 becomes £2. The £2.30 becomes £4.60/m2. How much can you do yourself?

Thanks @NickK Yes done really bar last 3 snags which are: oak threshold from hall to lounge (stone to oak)/ threshold between back door and utility. Couple of the astragal bars have sprung on the windows as cut too long from factory Flashing on sun tunnel has pulled from roof in one corner. Im around 30k over budget all in but had 20k slush fund so 10k over really. Hoped to have money left over for landscaping but that’s out of the question unfortunately.

I would never floor around the end panels, they should be fitted on top of the flooring IMO, However as said above a coloured mastic will do it .