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So finally we been granted full permission to proceed, my drainage pan has been approved and deemed I do not impact the nutrients to the broads in addition to those expected by my initial application that was already approved, common sense has prevailed. Quite why I had to wait when this assessment was done 29th September I’m not sure. But it done now. Hooorahhh South Norfolk and Broadland District Council Habitat Regulations Assessment (HRA) Screening Please note: Undertaking the HRA process is the responsibility of South Norfolk and Broadland District Council as the Competent Authority for the purpose of the Habitats Regulations. However, it is the responsibility of the Applicant to provide the Competent Authority with the information that they require for this purpose. HRA Drafting Date: 29 September 2022 HRA Completion Date: 29 September 2022 Application Reference: 2022/0699 Application Address Land North of Brickle Loke, Stoke Holy Cross, Norfolk Application Description: Variation of conditions 2, 4 and 6 – amended drawings, materials and velux windows Proximity to SPA/SAC Within catchment of The Broads SAC Lead Planning Officer: Please note that all references in this assessment to the ‘Habitats Regulations’ refer to The Conservation of Habitats and Species Regulations 2017 (as amended). Stage 1 – Details of the Plan or Project Does this application relate to residential development only? Yes European site potentially impacted by planning application, plan or project: The Broads SAC Is the planning application directly connected with or necessary to the management of the site [If yes, Applicant should have providedevidence and justification]] No Are there any other projects or plans that together with the planning application being assessed could affect the site? [Applicant to provide the information sufficient to allow an ‘in combination’ effect to be assessed] No Stage 2 – HRA Screening Assessment Screening under Regulation 63(1)(a) of the Habitats Regulations – Significance test: the Applicant is to provide evidence so that a judgement can be made as to whether there could be any potential significant impacts of the development on the integrity of the SPA/SAC/Ramsar. Whilst the application site falls within the Broads Catchment Area shown on the NE map, and does provide overnight accommodation, it does not present any increased foul water implications beyond those that would occur lawfully under the consented and implementable permission 2021/1154. The scheme would not lead to non-sewerage discharge to watercourses that would necessitate an appropriate assessment for nutrient neutrality. Does the evidence submitted suggest the proposal will lead to a likely significant effect, without mitigation measures, on European Site integrity? No

It’s the most stressful part of your build Having us all jumping through hoops seems to be a pass time at the local planning office Big tick off your list Well done

I always purchase things like this from Amazon - because it's easy to return 😁

I've a TP link Deco system. Pretty easy to install. Probably take you 30mins to get three units up and running. A techy friend also reccomemded the Nest system.

Didnt use it for a workshop, but did in my house (old, no DPC etc etc) Aside from cost, is little downside. I looked at it again for a workshop that would have the potential to flood, so definitely was in the running, as completely unaffected by water. In the house, i used it for all the reasons they state, but inside the house, and not wanting to dig to far down and expose the foundations, its main benefit was being the load bearing AND insulating layer combined. Of course, it doesnt meet current regs. Does your workshop need to?

Firstly, i am both Engineer and contractor. For a clientI I take few risks. For my own, and family, i take more chances. We have taken on severely distressed buildings 5 times, always to live in. In every case there have been nasty surprises, even to me. These would nof have come up in reports other than as general warnings. More accurately these are considered decisions, not risks. So the default here is to say to be careful. The discount may not begin to cover the risks....but i don't know as i don't know enough about this property. If this house was possibly to be mine i would cost the repairs of the known problems, but also allow for the unknowns. Repairing to live in rather than sell is an advantage. Things like the drains can be dealt with as and when. A builder either has to get it right, or disguise the problems, in order to sell it. Stitching is a repair, not a solution. Best have an expert look at what caused these cracks and the floor movement. A good local SE could simply have a walk round inspection and give off the recird advice. This works for easily seen problems and avoids unnecessary detail and report cost. For example i once suggested this, on the basis that the SE would say only whether the house would get a mortgage, and why not. Client paid for 2 hours and avoided an expensive mistake. The discount may not be remotely enough. Be prepared to let it go. On a positive. Maybe the ground is ok and thd floor is just very badly made, and can be repaired. Maybe the walls are cracked for other ressons thsn foundations, and just need repair. On a negative....often houses are beyond repair, demolished and rebuilt as new. Be careful, get independent professional advice.

We are building a four-bed detached house in the south of England and for a whole host of reasons (well mainly privacy!) I thought I’d try a blog in a slightly different way. I’ve been making notes of “lessons” we’ve learnt along the way and I thought I’d try and write them up whilst we progress before hindsight has the chance to alter them too much! Some of them are things I wish I’d known or realised beforehand, others are just little things that have worked well for us, but hopefully they might be useful for others at a similar stage and I’d be interested to hear how they compare to your own. The first chunk are my notes from finding land through to gaining planning permission… There’s no doubt luck is required to find a good plot, but you can give yourself the best chance to be lucky. Research planning applications, look for areas of land on Google Earth, use Land Registry, write letters. Don’t just wait for Rightmove. We paid a lot of money for a site without planning permission – many people told us we were breaking the biggest self-build golden rule. We were clear with ourselves about the risk we were taking, understood exactly why the current owners didn’t want to put planning in place and, importantly, we made sure the price we paid reflected the risk. Neighbourly relations are hugely important and you likely need to be prepared for people to object to your development no matter what you design. Disruption, noise, loss of green space, loss of privacy, and just change in general are all very real worries for people. We wrote letters to everyone in the immediate area outlining our plans and kept them up-to-date with our progress. We worked really hard to always be polite and courteous, even when we weren’t always getting that in return. We can now happily meet any neighbour know we’ve always done our best. Everything takes longer than you think! During the design process the weeks seemed to tick by very quickly – every iteration needed our architect to re-work something, and then come back to us a week or two later. Be open to your architects ideas and suggestions, think things through and question your own presumptions, but also don’t be afraid to push the design in the direction you think best. Our plot is in a conservation area so our plans were always going to come under a lot of scrutiny. Read up on planning applications in your local area and follow the applications as they progress, in particular read the statutory consultees responses (highways, trees, conservation). You can learn a lot by seeing what amendments or information they’re requesting and how that might translate to your own application. We used our local authority’s planning pre-application advice services with a fairly mature set of plans. This cost as much as a full planning application, and took longer, but was invaluable for letting us get feedback from the conservation/planning officer away from any neighbour scrutiny. We’d agreed at the start a fixed price with our architect through to full planning submission, this proved very worthwhile as significant re-design was needed on the basis of the pre-app feedback. We listened to our neighbour objections, and tried to mitigate their concerns where practical, but at the end of the day we knew we’d be submitting plans with things they wouldn’t like. We made sure we explained the rationale for why alternates weren’t possible, but otherwise pushed ahead with the design we wanted that stood us in the best stead for planning. Despite all our neighbourly relation work our application attracted objections (as expected!) but went through smoothly as we’d addressed all the material considerations from our pre-app. Importantly we remained on good terms. If the shoe’s on the other foot - and you’re objecting to a neighbouring application - make sure you focus on the material considerations. One neighbour picked up on the aspect of our design we were least confident would get through but then buried their remarks on it in the middle of long-winded list of other non-material objections. Had they clearly presented their case and focussed on the material considerations they likely stood a much better chance of influencing the planning officer.

As part of our house renovation, we're trying to restore the original part of the property back to, near, original. Down the side elevation was originally a side entrance, which we believe was into the original kitchen. We plan to restore that, and put a boot room there instead. An old picture of the house, shows the kitchen window as being a casement window, whereas the others are all sash. Our Architect has proposed we do the same in our renovation, and his opinion is that "working rooms" were generally very different to habitable rooms, so the contrast would be fair, but our window fitter has expressed concerns that mixing sash and casement will look odd. As a, mass, third opinion, what says you? (The window in question is circled in green on the new elevations)

@Roger440 thanks for that link, interesting reading. My GAB will serve a similar purpose to yours but I only have the one car to put in it plus other stuff. Oh. Really? that’s very useful to know. I’ll be using the same inspector that we used for the house build who was, um, easy to put it mildly. I’ll check with him before I start. Likewise, and to stop tools going rusty etc etc.

From my recent experience... Request plenty of of the quotes. Most of my enquiries went unanswered even from smaller locals. Gave up with web enquiries and answer phone messages. This may have changed in the last month or so as things start to slow. Give as much info as you can up front - we didn't want trickle vents and that wasn't an option with some places. Have an idea of what performance (frames & glass) level you want and avoid anywhere that can't give you specifics. Check the quote has glass and frame performance detail. Flexibility can assist in price negotiation. Are you prepared to have the work done early Jan or at a point when the company is trying to fill their job book? Extras - colour cost, If you've not got existing cavity closures probably an extra cost. Check what's included and what's not. Other random things to ask - lead times, guatentee - do you have a single point of contact for any failure. Good luck. I'll be happy when I'm done with windows - it's been a slog but hopefully I'm finalising our order on Friday.

Ah that makes more sense. I would still check this is OK with the door company. Think I would ask the SE what the ? can be. I think it could be timber but in many cases brick or block walls are just mortared on top of steel. One other issue occurs to me.. is your house rendered? If not you might need a cavity tray in the wall above the height of the flat roof?

One issue is how to get out If the outer doors are shut and the inner door opens out. Might have to motorise the outer doors?

I would fit the inner door as normal in a frame in the opening. Then fit an outer door to the face of the outside wall as you would a hinged shutter. Depends what you can get away with. The outer door could be hinged or sliding. Just needs to be big enough to be out of tye way of the inner door. Could even be two doors one sliding to the left and the other to the right. A bit like these but external grade doors..

I'm not sure why you made the steels deeper just to fill a gap. That would make them more expensive and harder to fix any issues on site. I would speak to the sliding door company and ask what they want above the door to fix into. It might be they prefer you to raise that steel and put a wood beam below it to fix the door track to? It might be possible to raise the other steel and fix the wall plate to the side. If they are the same height one option is to fill in the web with timber and fix joist hangers to that. You can get them with long tails that go up over the beam and down the other side fixing into the infill timber on both sides.

I have, I’ll see how my plan evolves but it’s highly likely I’ll install the pipes and pop a Willis heater in there. Any extra solar would be PV, I won’t be adding solar thermal. I’ll also explore @saveasteading’s suggestions

Welcome. I look forward to your input.

For an occasionally used workshop I would consider a Mediterranean type Aircon unit. A fan and heat exchanger outside and fan inside. They used to be very poor for heating, but now appear to get a 4x energy rating. For £500. Plus an infra-red work-bench facing heater for instant warming of you. There is a good big one with optional stand at toolstation. They all show a bit of visible light now. for unbelievers and to remind us to turn it off.

You have experience with UFH so I would consider that. Solar thermal might be good for this?

the basic interface looks like this:

Hi and welcome. There's probably not much you don't know. Well done on your portfolio of builds, and look forward to the next one taking shape.

Not the interface that you log into a 192.168.1.1 That just gives you basic information and basic settings, when you log in as "admin" Is there another login user name that gives you more options? Within that basic user interface there is a link to "UNMS" which opens a new tab and takes you to https://10.20.9.17/nms/login but I don't have a user name or password to log in there and no idea what it would allow me to do.

This is to help stop the gable falling over (because the roof trusses get installed so the gable wall can be strapped back to the roof trusses as it goes up). So it's done for a good reason.

Devils advocate time. If THIS house was defective and mould was rampant, how come ALL the houses of this type are not condemned? I very much doubt this one particular house has a big fault in it's construction that the houses adjacent don't? Could just a little of the blame be put on the tenant for not understanding how typical old UK houses, in a damp UK climate work, and how they need to be heated and ventilated properly? And could just a little bit of the blame be put on the fact English is not their first language and no matter how much you try and explain things to them, they just don't understand? Two examples. We used to have a 1980's build flat as a buy to let, typical construction for the area, timber framed, electric storage heaters, wooden double glazed windows. We had one tenant complaining of damp. Inspection showed all the heating off. All the windows shut and all trickle vents closed, the bathroom fan turned off at the fan isolator switch (that was when I learned NEVER have a fan isolator switch in a rental) and wet clothing hung in every room. It was unheated and unventilated with very high humidity. Just what do you expect to happen? No tenant before or after had a problem with damp. And the language thing, yesterday I had to go to a rental with the reported fault "heaters not working". They were storage heaters, and they were turned off at the wall switch. I tried to explain to the tenant, who did not speak much English that you turn them on and leave them on and they will heat up over night. I gathered from what little I could understand, she turned them on, the light did not come on (in the daytime) so she assumed they were faulty and turned them off. Now someone will come and label me racist because I struggle to communicate with someone who does not have a reasonable command of the English language, and heaven forbid I expect a tenant to do their best to work with the property they have warts and all., The alternative is we knock down most of the UK's housing stock and replace it with idiot proof passive houses so the tenant does not have to think. But better not fit an off switch to the MVHR.

This is one nice thing with the ubiquiti gear: you can create a 802.11b legacy network with advanced features disabled. This has kept a lot of old and basic and low bandwidth IoT devices working for me, such as Fitbit scales, petwalk catflap, tempest weather station, etc

Was literally just reading about this on the bbc: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-manchester-63635721 Absolutely outrageous. I hope the council agencies involved are sued for this completely avoidable tragedy.

As above, and if not damaged they can be brought back up slowly with a variable power supply. Our customers often ‘forget’ to charge their machines for extended periods and we can usually recover the Cells over a few days getting the voltage up to where the charger will recognise the cell and kick in.

It depends on what you mean by fully discharged. Lithium batteries like to be kept between certain voltage limits, for LiFePo4 that's 2.5v to 3.6V. If those levels are exceeded for any length of time the cells will probably be damaged. For long term storage a state of charge of roughly 30-50% is recommended. If the battery hasn't been abused by being discharged to less than the minimum voltage for that chemistry it will probably be fine. The self discharge rate for lithium batteries is very low, so it probably won't have discharged itself in storage.

It might just me my Raspbery Pi Music box that is not very good. On the previous (3 MBPS on a good day, frequently slower) ADSL broadband, the Pi would often stop and start it's streaming, very often around 5 to 6PM every day, and if someone started streaming tv or downloading then forget it. This is the first time the Pi has show any issues since getting the new broadband. Unlike the old BT router, this Air Cube shows you what devices are connected and what up and downloads they are using and the XBOX did indeed seem to be using all that was available. I was hoping there would have been some hidden / advanced settings to set limits or priorities but lots of searching has revealed a big fat no. Annoyingly, the Pi is connected by ethernet not wifi but that does not seem to give it any priority.

I can see why you have been seduced/sold by the description of the polymer lifting your house back up the required spot in a matter of days. Sounds easy. Can it overshoot and effectively cause heave? Underpinning is tried and trusted. I've bought a house which has had it done and we had to take over the same insurance policy. If they've had their insurers out, find out why aren't they making a claim? The excess is usually only about £1K. I have a friend who bought a house with an expensive subsiding conservatory and they were able to take over the policy, continue with claim process and got a nice new conservatory eventually. It took a while tho' as I believe they had to reduce the adjacent trees to see if the (ground) settlement resolved. Is something like this an option?

There's no required amount as it's considered an unheated space by Building Regs. If you're considering heating it anyway you're going to want 0.18-0.21 I'd say.

I am just too nice, I hate telling people off, as I hate being told off. The XBOX thing, he was not to know it was capable of hogging all the bandwidth of what is still a limited bandwidth service. It is plain stupid that with standard equipment and protocols there are no settings or limits that ensure all devices on the network get a fair slice of the bandwidth available. Setting on and off times to prevent that would pretty much be only allowing it to download when the rest of us are in bed or out of the house. What is needed is the XBOX or similar devices to have a setting to restrict their maximum download speed or the router to be able to do the same. I guess even at our new fast(er) 50MBPS broadband (the fastest we are ever likely to get here for a long time) that is by todays technology, FTTP or FTTC or even 5G a slow legacy service. But out in the sticks we are unlikely to get any of those faster services any time soon, so we continue to be "forgotten" The shower thing is just typical of someone that has no understanding of how things work, how much things cost and who has never had to pay for them. Words have been had. We will see if it happens again.

I'm not aware of there being limitations on new users uploading, plus he managed to upload one yesterday. Size seems fine. Try going to where you have the file saved, then dragging and dropping them from there into the post where shown in the editor:

I use this setup to good effect. It depends on airtightness, ours is too poor to warrant MVHR running costs (probably, based on many assumptions...) Unsure on building regs, our last house was a new build with PIV and no trickle vents so it's possible.

Yeah, fair enough. Now that I think about the actual time slot, 5-6 pm isn't a great time for us to be reducing energy either. We rarely cook before 6, there's no hot water heating happening at that time of day, and the ASHP isn't likely to be doing any heating at this time until it gets colder. I haven't looked back further, but yesterday we used something like 0.8 kWh between 5 and 6. Short of stopping work for an hour and turning my computer and monitor off, I'm not sure what other easy wins there are. I'm not switching off the fridge or the freezer, as knowing my luck I'll forget to turn them back on again!

It’s more about incremental gains multiplied by potentially millions of people. We are too used to waste in wealthier countries whether it’s energy, water, food, or packaging. Add in the amount of unnecessary stuff people buy from clothes to electronic tat. This has been driven by low inflation and cheap money. Obviously the two extremes at either end of wealth curve still exist so the well off don’t need to cut back anywhere (luxury goods don’t tend to suffer in a recession) and the poor struggle to survive. As a very minimum if people think twice about their energy usage it won’t be such a bad thing in the long run.

Yep I’m certain

I do wonder whether those who potentially stand to benefit most from this scheme are savvy enough to have even signed up for it. Whereas, those on this forum are likely already energy aware.

Thanks for that @Adrian Walker most useful (and I see the DPM does maker an appearance, no worries)

Details for foamed glass foundations attached. GEOCELL-Foundation-Details.pdf

Yes, but only if you can utilise it. @ProDave would flush any left over down the drain.

If it really is a passive house then 3kW heating for whole house will be plenty. My house is not a passive house but max heating demand when it is +20 inside and -10 outside is just over 2kW On first heating at such low levels of heat input it will take a long time to heat up the structure of the house, so stick with it, leave it on for 24 hours or until the house warms up. Thereafter is will not need much heat input to maintain the temperature.

there are no wrong answers when it comes to aesthetics only opinions.

must be great breathing in all those particles of perished rubber around the lid. Crazy to bodge and skimp on a couple hundred quid manifold ...

if an insurers SE says the footing has failed then any 'resin' is literally paving over the cracks. It sounds like your looking for an easy out to justify the price and have latched onto this. Underpinning is not a massive job and will fix the root cause. Webuyanyhouse wont touch it with a bargepole as they wont be able to flip it with subsidence which is all they do. stick by your guns there is always another place.

May be worth reading up on Jet Grouting as this seems to be a modification of it. https://theconstructor.org/geotechnical/jet-grouting-procedure-advantages/14470/

Groundsworker was a bit sceptical but it's been there for three years with no issue. Floor is warm and no damp issues.

I'm being very general here but to give you a flavour of the way things operate. For the avoidance of doubt I'm including some of the companies that are major developers and medium sized ones that are underwriten by the major warranty providers in the UK. I'm not going to name them.. suffice to say that I have won a number of claims again them similar to what you describe. Small builders that may be building you an extension,.. don't say much here on small builders as this may require a partially differant approach.. assuming there may be a cash element to that type of transaction. If you are a domestic home owner then surprisingly you often do have legitimate recourse against the medium and bigger developers. But you will probably need to spend a bit of time and possibly a bit of money to overcome this hurdle. If a new build.. in the first couple of years the medium sized builder upwards is probably playing the war of attrition.. they know a lot of folk complain but only a few will take it any further..(some folk post bad things on facebook etc) the warranty provider often does not hold the ball until two years have elasped.. hence the lack of initial response. Take a young couple who have saved up to buy a house and they move in. Cracks appear / drains block say and they feel that they have not got what they paid for. Over the years I have become aware that this is a numbers game for builders and their warranty providers. The warranty providers are essentially insurance companies so this is all about paying out less than you get in premiums and the difference between the two is essentially their profit. Just like car insurance they have a "claims avoidance" department / culture..? I'll deal with the jobbing builder (say a small extension) in another post if there is any interest. But the some of the same rules apply.. often you won't have a formal industry standard contract with the very small builder.. you may be doing a deal.. part cash? Take a medium builder up to the majors. They send their "surveyor in a suit" and offer to do a bit or just send the decorators.. that reduces the field quite a lot.. folk feel.. well we got something out of them. As a domestic home owner you are entitled to a certain standard of workmanship. You are also entitled to a structurally safe home.. all covered under the consumer protection act not least. You are as a home owner are entitled to a product that will perform. @Scots Build If you want to pursue this you have options, there are others but here are a couple. Builders/ house developers often give domestic home owners the run around. They are experts at it and they caveat the sale conditions very heavily.. you need to clear a lot of hoops to gain satisfaction. Caveats include cracking / shrinkage and a whole host of other things in the fine print. What I do is this when acting on behalf of a Client is this.. Rather than arguing about crack sizes / workmanship on say sticky doors, opening mitres, floor levels say on facings that are open to interpretation in the desing codes I look under the bonnet. I always ask myself.. what is causing the cracks, blocked drains, in adequate wall ties for example, walls out of plumb. I then look at the what could be structurally wrong. I can tell you that I will 90% of the time I will find a "structural non compliance" when I look under the bonnet. I don't do random opening up stuff as I know from experience where folk cut corners. I would focus on for example and investigate.. the things that are cheep and simple to do SE wise as it keeps your bill down ...is it the render.. but that could be a symptom of underlying malaise.. I would check the wall for alignment.. is it out of plumb, are the wall ties correctly installed, are the cavities the correct size and clean? If the cavities vary too much coupled with the outside leaf leaning out and the inside leaf leaning in then they are often stuffed as the wall ties no longer comply with the design codes they have probably used. This is easily checked with a plumb bob. simple technology. I check the connections of floor joists for example. Fire protection is a cracker.. one failure is a no no in this day and age. I look at a load of other things too.. could be that I notice that electrical cables are too close to heating pipes.. on the face of it you may think that it is not within an SE remit.. but anything that could potentially cause a detrimental effect to the structure.. say cables or heating pipes that could cause fire or comprimise the strength of a stuctural member does fall in my remit. I only need to ask.. hey I see this.. can you confirm it is OK? I don't need to be an Electrician I just need to apply common sense and are entitleled to ask these queations as a professional. Now it may seem harsh. But if I write in my SE report that you instructed me to do a prelimiary survey and I look in two places that are of interest to me and find one out of two items that are non compliant in terms of fire design.. that is a 50% failure rate.. it raises questions.. I guess where I need to look, say open up a small part of the ceiling to expose a joist hanger.. is it fully nailed, it it installed as per the manufacture's instructions. Find one thing wrong and you have them over a barrel. I have found in the past that the developer comes back with.. what are you on about.. we are big boys and you are not.. our SE says its ok. I call their SE and say do you know about this.. they say no.. In then say who is responsible for the fire design? now the the developers own SE has washed their hands.. and the deveoper has lost the support of their own SE. As soon as the SE bails out all the stuff about shrinkage is blown out of the water. I have found that as soon as you say.. Hey I have found evidence that the building does not comply structurally and I need you to come to the table to discuss it changes the game. If you don't come to the table I'm going to report you to the HSE and my Client is going to sue you as you have sold them an unsafe building. The HSE stuff will impact on their insurance premiums.. you aim for their pocket. Have found that this approach gets their attention as you have moved the goal posts big time. From experience your complaint will rapidly get moved up to "director" level. Funnily I have had quite a lot of success with this approach.. maybe I'm just lucky? The above is a bit of an insight into how you may approach your problem. If you want to pursue this you need to pick your battles and hit them where it hurts. Always remember that you bought the house in good faith.. you are not at fault. Hope this helps you either rule in or rule out how you may want to progress.

I don't know for sure these days, but when I had my 2011 FIT system installed the paperwork package from th eMCS installer included various certificates to confirm the equipment was new, was owned by you, had been correctly installed and various drawings about the instalation. These needed submitting then to the FIT provider. I assume it is much the same. the key thing it must be signed off my an MCS installer.

Or Portuguese 'heating engineers' are as shit as ours. Not sure if an A/C unit, designed primarily for cooling is the right choice for heating. Would have to see the specifications. @Old McDonald What is the size of this shed, and roughly how thick is the insulation? We could do a rough heatloss calculation and then get a better idea of what is needed. Just to clarify, I really meant to suggest that the night storage heaters were charged with PV most of the time. There is no fundamental difference between a fan heater, a panel heater, a storage heater a heat pump solution. 1 kWh of delivered heat, at the required temperature, is the same as any other 1 kWh of heat delivered. Why we use standardised units.

Loft roll is soft and will be unlikely to just stay in place. Frametherm is much stiffer and if cut slightly oversize will push in place on a sloping ceiling and just stay there. Early in the build I put a single piece in the roof between the rafters as a test , and 6 months later it had not fallen out or even slipped.