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All I'll say is that downlights are the devil, and large arrays of downlights are whatever's worse than the devil. My eyes are already bleeding looking at the array in the kitchen. One thing I'll recommend (which we didn't do enough of) is to walk into each room, imagine specific scenarios about how it will be used, and think about what the lighting would ideally look like for each use. For example, the kitchen is probably going to be the most complex, because it has lots of different uses across the day and night: - Cooking on a weeknight: compare a bright summer's day with a dark winter evening - Eating lunch/breakfast at the island - Eating dinner at the table - Coffee on a dark, overcast winter weekend morning - After-dinner lighting for midweek where you might be wandering in and out from the living room, grabbing a cup of tea, etc - A party where there are lots of people drinking and eating snacks - A dinner party with 6-8 people at the table (does the lighting change over the course of the evening? Brighter when people get there and you're engaged in cooking and organising drinks, then changing focus to the table when you sit down to eat, and perhaps changing again if things continue after dinner) Other things to consider: - Will you have any art on the walls? If so, how will you light it (if at all). - How much of your lighting can be done with local task lights versus bright downlights? In the kitchen example, are you better having some good task lighting above the island where you'll be doing food prep, coupled with some more moody, lower level lighting over the island for when you still want to see what you're doing (e.g., eating), but brightness isn't so important. - Consider lamps and wall lights that are controllable as part of scenes incorporating your main lighting. Another thing to consider is to look at the lighting in bars and restaurants, and see what sort of lighting gives you the sort of mood you're after. It's amazing the impact a couple of lamps with orange or red shades can do to the feel of a space.

Completely agree, I would say the proposal is unimaginative. When putting together our scheme we talked to a professional lighting designer (who we didn’t go with due to cost, but shamelessly took many of the ideas) and their single most helpful comment is to think about where you don’t want light and darker spaces are just as valuable as brightly lit spaces. A full matrix of LED downlights will certainly give even and bring coverage, but is that what you want? Even bathrooms can have a more subtle mood with lights in niches, and darker spots of the room where you don’t need to be dazzled. Light goes over basins and in showers, perhaps highlighting a picture with a narrow slot. No, you don’t need pendants everywhere but they can definitely be helpful in specific locations to create impact, for example over a dining table, over stairs, in your entrance lobby if there’s enough height. Equally you can have light at different levels for a more subtle mood, and 5amp circuits can still give good control and dimming. Table lamps, lights that arc over a sofa, bedside lamps, desk lamps are all part of the scheme. Recessed LED strips can work well, but equally can be overdone if too many. Slot lights at floor level can light your was to the bathroom in the night with a low glow. Pictures can be picked out rather than lighting the whole floor. Reflected light is often softer and more appealing than direct light from a downlighter. So many options. We had a basic principle of not wanting to see the source of the light, just the effect. We didn’t always achieve that, but it’s a great starting point. A lot of that is by using flush plaster-in angled lights like wall-washers. if I had one suggestion it would be to break up the matrix of downlights and put the light where you need it rather than splashing light everywhere. As to how you control it all, there are so many options from manual dimmers, DMX, KNX, Loxone, WiFi controllers, zigbee etc. I would suggest refining the lighting scheme before worrying about controls.

That'll be the day. New thread if he does though.

None are typical, they're all the sum of the installation parameters? Length and size of pipe, number of 90o/180o turns, rated power of pump and so on. Hence the reason each UFH manifold comes with a set of flow gauges that are adjusted during commissioning to balance the system according to its unique characteristics.

We have down-lights, but I am not a fan of loads of small ones. We have 6 big ones in the kitchen about 150/200mm dia, fill the room with light little or no shadows. They are flat and white, so disappear in to the ceiling. Look more like a light tunnel. We have a ceiling that follows the roof line, and selected them as they are only about 20-30mm deep. Used slightly smaller ones the hall and most other rooms.

I just don’t understand this. Good quality high CRI bulbs in a 2700k colour will illuminate whatever you need to see as well as you could ever need to see it, without the harshness of cool lights. 3000k at a stretch, but anything higher than this is not appropriate for a residence.

I’m with @jack on this. I hate downlights. We managed to get away with only 13 in the whole 5 bedroom/3 storey house: one in the porch two in the ground hallway one in first floor hallway two at the top of the stairwell above second floor hallway two in the kids bathroom 5 concealed in the kitchen -these are to illuminate the L worktop, I say concealed because you can only see them directly under them, there is a decorative ceiling that drops 20cm below the ceiling where they are installed. I will try and upload some pictures. i find that lighting works much better with lots of layers, and only using downlights where you absolutely have to because there is no alternative. So we have a lot of wall lights, a pendant in the middle of most rooms, including in our master en-suite, which looks great, and a few floor standing lamps and table lamps. We wired many of the lamps into 5A lighting circuits so that you can still control at the wall.

Maybe a few bottles of Scottish or Irish whiskey and a Cotswolds gin might oil that and many more gears.

@Nickfromwales Taken your advice and removed part of the back of cupboard as there is a double socket on it and i have also taken a section of dot dab out where the tap is going, just to give a little more room. @Conor This could be an option if i ever do it all again but like nick says i could not afford to move the return units along as they butt up to a wall but worth bearing in mind for any future kitchens. Regards James

My mate took the mayor to his favourite restaurant and wined and dined him, worked a treat 👍

I knocked up some secondary glazing a few weeks back. Just cheap styrene sheets, cheap moulded timber, cheap foam W seals, all held together with double sided tape. I have timber framed so just drilled and screwed them in place. Apart from reducing draughts (which is what I wanted) the noise reduction has been dramatic. The neighbour that goes to work at 3 AM is not public enemy number 1 now (though may still squirt some expanding foam up the big bore exhaust). I did this as a proof of concept, may redo them a bit prettier next year, shall see how much energy I save first. I think the 14 windows did not cost me 200 quid.

Thanks for this useful information. I'm a least said soonest mended person, so we'll just put in the application and see how it goes. I hope its not contentious. I've read many planning officer reports on local applications, and have a picture in my mind of their point of view - so ours in non-contentious [I think]. I agree it's the luck of the draw with planning officers, and hope ours will have a more contemporary than traditional bias.

Our architect said that pre-planning gives them a chance to have their say - but pre-planning enquiries like all planning like all planning applications depend on the authority and also the officer. Both our pre-planning applications (outline and full) were both a waste of time. The one on the full application caused us major grief by asking us to make one part of the plan shorter front to back which made the layout we wanted impossible - I think if we'd just put the application in, it might have gone through. The outline reply was a joke - we ended up going to appeal and won hands down. We used MBC - at the time we were getting quotes, most of the companies we approached were comparable price wise. The great thing about MBC is that they take responsibility for the insulated slab as well as the frame. In our opinion, they were taking on too many contracts when they took ours which resulted in the using contractors for the actual erection - our mob were cowboys. They sacked the company off soon after our build. So I'd ask for a clause in the contract that the erectors are MBC employees - that way you're more likely to get the Irish team who know what they are doing. There's lots of issues with our build under the skin that we know about but now we're living here it's a great house. Airtightness result was 0.7, so just above the PassivHaus standard and that was with the standard TF, not the double skinned PH system they do. I understood btw that any double skinned TF is inherently difficult to get square with flat walls - if the timbers in the frame twist warp, the skin which is osb can't really fight against this, so the standard system is probably more stable in that respect. Would I use MBC again - probably yes BUT I'd employ a project manager for the erection with experience of TF builds and have them on-site full time for the 5 or 6 weeks it takes to finish the build. Just to make sure everything is done to plan - it would have saved us a lot of effort rectifying issues caused by the subcontractor that did the erection. Simon

Hate to be pedantic but balusters need to be spaced so that a 100mm sphere CANNOT pass between them. Slight difference but less than 100mm. I’d normally suggest 100mm maximum centres. Works for most infill balusters.

MBC offer a guaranteed air tightness score of 0.6ACH with their passive twin wall iirc. If Airtightness is your thing then it should be a serious consideration. They even guarantee maximum 2ACH with a standard TF. I didn’t find many companies offering that. I still didn’t use them though. 😂

There's also this long thread, but it is mainly about treatment plants. There may be something in it. Again old, but the biological mechanics have been exactly the same since Medieval Long Drops.

will be fine on something that small, truss clip the trusses to the wall plate to belt and braces it.

One of our members @Tennentslager has a hut at Carbeth, near Glasgow, and used a boxed in dry loo which separates 1s and 2s. Details are here on his blog, quite a long way down the article - but since it is basically a weekend hut there are probably a lot more ideas that would be useful for your shepherd's hut if you read it all. You get the benefit from my interest in bodily functions in the comments. Summary: Dry Toilet And No Smell Whatsoever Apologies for the pic of the loo, warts and all so to speak... This is the 'seperate' plastic toilet from Sweden that has a front funnel and back void. The thinking is to seperate the solid and liquid waste as it is the combination Of both together that causes the smells we don't like. Urine runs to a soak away and the solids and toilet paper (and sawdust which helps the drying process and Erm...helps the appearance should you peer into the pit!)end up in the bucket below. There is a small fan running constantly which you can just see on the floor behind the urine waste tube. The fan is powered from our 12v battery and draws next to no power at around 0.1 amps. This provides an airflow which removes odours and aids the drying process for the solid waste.

you are quite correct zoning is very bad practice as heat will just try and migrate to the colder zone anyway. Best practice seems to be run it at your comfortable temp day/evening and let it fall back 3 degrees overnight. Set the flow temp as low as your building heat loss allows.

The problem is less downlights per se and more the visual effect of a vast array of closely-mounted downlights as the primary, or even only, light source for a large area. It's particularly bad if the ceilings are low. We have a small number of relatively high power, wide angle downlights in our kitchen and they're not actually that bad, although I prefer to have them on low in the evenings and use wall and accent lights unless I'm doing something that needs a ton of light. As well as using not shite pendants, you can also use wall lights and lamps (and LED strips, but even when they're concealed I'm not a fan of the way these are usually used). I've had the 16 channel version of this running via Loxone for a few months now. Rock solid so far. Dimming is excellent - better even than the 8-channel Theben KNX dimmer being used for the rest of the channels.

put the cheapers compesting bog in you can buy. get BCO signoff. remove and connect to sceptic tank.

Where is local to you? Mode eDIN system is over the top for a house (just left a site snagging walk round and funnily enough had a look at the eDIN system I had specified to see if it was commissioned correctly. No.). Can you post an example of some of the products and manufacturers. Also, with all due respect, and I mean this in the friendliest way, that is not a "lighting design". Yes it shows lighting on a plan and constitutes a plan of lighting, but that is something that an architect would throw on a drawing for building warrant. Has any of the lighting been calculated and lumen outputs and beam angles etc. considered etc. Regardless of the above, if you are happy with that and can pick some decent quality luminaires then go for it. For control, simple option is just light switches in the majority of spaces and a couple of dimmers for the living kitchen area. I would suggest, for the living room, depending on height of the LED strip (i.e. what it is built into) and the pendant tubes beam angle and output, your living room may be a bit under lit in some areas such as the couch, however, you may be like me and never really use the ceiling lights and rely on table lights, floor standers etc. I am not sure what the top 2, on plan, rooms are, downlights might not be best option depending on use.

In the days of 50W halogens I'd agree, but with low energy bright and dimmable LEDs they have their place. We have them in our kitchen and they are good for task lighting; 4 over one work surface , 4 over another work surface and an odd fitting over the island. They're switchable in groups so that you only have them on over the area that you are using. They give decent light where you are working and you don't shade it as you would with central lighting. We also have a long narrow hallway which was lit with 4 pendant lights (with cfls) when we moved in. It gave a horrible dim, flat light. I've put in 8 downlights in 2 groups. The pools of light on the walls and the increased brightness make it a much more pleasant space. No, I wouldn't choose them in a living area, preferring to have a mixture of freestanding lamps and uplighters to provide variation in lighting

Depends on the time of day you measure, if you have people upstairs they are all breathing out moisture. Perhaps your ventilation is less well performing upstairs.

Why not replace with something like this. Then they only open as much as required and do it automatically. https://www.bpdstore.co.uk/glidevale-energy-saver-humidity-sensitive-trickle-ventilator/p/182

seen a couple inches lost below dpc.

1. No, but many suppliers will want to offer 1.4. Problem is not the glass but the frames, you need good frames to get 1.2 or better. We have a couple of double glazed doors, which I had Krypton filled, they achieve U value for whole door of 1.1. An insulated door will get 1.0. Increase insulation in floor, walls and roof. Adding solar panels. Adding waste water heat recovery. Better airtightness. MVHR. Improved boiler controls. Will all get you more points on the SAP report.

Good for you, not easy to do, perhaps let us know where you are, I can recommend a fantastic builder but he is booked for at least a year.

Sorry your issue isn’t Building Control it will be planning - whilst you can argue it is portable and moveable, planning may see it having a permanent train connection as a permanent structure. Be very careful how you manage that one..!

Update: I’ve just had a site meeting and sacked the builder. It was the right thing to do. I now need to find another tradesman. Not sure if we are allowed to provide recommendations on here. There is a hell of a lot of work to do.

I’ve rented a boat with one and it was fine. Might be worth asking on a boating forum as they’ll have more experience of them.

The air quality and humidity will become hugely problematic if you do as you suggest. Try opening the trickle vents to 5 or 10% of their capacity and revisit. Is this a brick and block cavity wall dwelling? Cold or warm roof?

Yes lack of info. If you mean a loo that doesn’t have access to a foul system or water then there is this type. My pal is building a canal boat and is considering this type of loo or similar for it. It’s very dear though. https://www.leesan.com/shop/all-toilets/incineration-toilets

Basing my comments of your sub floor being very flat and level, if not you should use a self levelling compound to get this to a decent enough standard. Then, for the areas with laminate; If it were me, I’d go for the XPS as your moisture barrier, and would take no chances there in assuming the floor already has one. The moisture levels would be very different when the surface is no longer exposed to atmosphere so going by that isn’t a very good yardstick afaic. Then, go for the 10mm fibre for additional heat insulation. You buy insulation once, so invest now, save on heating bills long-term. For the areas with LVT; You’ll need a liquid damp barrier, and then to make this up to the required depth ( height ) with a self levelling compound. The LVT needs something under it that can withstand point load / impact, and none of the products you’ve linked are suitable for those areas. If you can buy the LVT which comes on a backer, so it’s like planks, then go for the thicker XPS so you’re insulated and moisture barrier protected. Remember with the XPS to tape the joints with a suitable tape to maintain the barrier.

I’ve read that twice, and haven’t got a clue what were being asked, sorry Is this for use in a house? On site as an alternative to a Portaloo? You’ll need to add some more detail please!

This is the solution I’d decided on and bought a rest bend when I was out earlier. I’m very glad to have it confirmed as the right thing to do! I’m not going to do the horizontal in 150mm though. I’ll stick with 110mm. I presume that’s fine? It’ll have to end up at 110mm anyway to join the other 2 branches. this, along with testing each of the 3 runs individually, is tomorrow’s job! I’ll update the thread with photos. 😊

^^^Get an insinkerator. One of my favourite things in our kitchen. Contemplated a prep sink in the island with an insinkerator, but in the end prioritised prep space instead and have it in the main sink directly behind prep area. 90% of our food waste goes down it.

Waste disposal! Anything that stores food waste is going to stink unless you clean it everyday

Well, you at least will understand when I say : "How do I know what a Gallic Shrug is....?"

You only put good stone at the front anyway and backfill with ballast etc. the “dividers” are just there to hold bigger cages in shape, not to separate materials as you need the gabions to be packed tight or settlement makes a real mess of them. also buy well not cheap! Poorly galvanised cages do not last, they are intended for temporary works only or where they will be covered over as works progress

if only one side is visible you can get a divider to go inside the baskets tso the back can be filled with cheap ballast and only the front faced with expensive stone.

Why not just do this properly????? Plastic is NOT meant to have a metal olive chew into it, and I’ve said this a number of times here. Put the zone valve on to a short piece of copper, so the compression setup is 100% concrete solid, and then simply use a pushfit coupler or elbow to convert from copper to pushfit. Bombproof. Compression and plastic should not appear in the same sentence, EVER. 👎

I fitted a free standing bath. They usually work by using a flexible waste fitting. You place the bath in position but lifted up on blocks a few inches above the floor, connect the waste and then remove the blocks and lower it down. There will be adjustable feet reached when the bath is lifted on the blocks. Personally I dislike flexible waste fittings. While it was up on blocks I connected a length of solid waste, when lowered the solid waste went down through a hole in the floor and I connected from below. This was a new build before the plasterboard in the utility room below went on. I know if ever I have to lift the bath, it will mean cutting a trap in the ceiling below, but with a top access click clack waste and wall mounted taps there should be no reason to do so.

Taps are no problem and waste just needs to be a top access one. Very rare you need to get under a bath

No following the logic, unless a big ASHP the supply would be single phase.

Spot on. 👍

So I have been tinkering with my collection of "stuff that will come in handy one day" Anyone reading beyond this point has to make a promise not to laugh, at least not out load. So put together a test water wheel entirely from bits you have to hand: The business side, that will collect the water. Yes that is a bicycle wheel, and the trial set of "buckets" that will go around the outside to collect the water and so cause it to rotate, are indeed baked bean cans. Looking at the other side, that is the pulley and belt from a dead washing machine. It is driving a little DC servo motor as my trial generator candidate. Initially I tried the pulley from the washing machine motor, but that only gave a 9:1 ratio, I felt it wanted more, so I made a very much smaller pulley for the servo motor and I have got to about a 17:1 ratio. The whole lot is mounted to the end of a length of aerial pole. The shaft is a length of M12 threaded rod and the bearings are old idler bearings left over from a previous cam belt change on my car. They mount to the aerial pole with a heavy duty aerial pole clamp set. The proposal is to mount the aerial pole pivoted about it's mid position giving somewhere for a counter weight and easy height adjustment. And since the motor is right in the "splash zone" it will have a plastic cover to keep it a bit dry A similar one will will also be fitted over the bearings We need to eat some more baked beans before there are enough cans to give it a water trial.

(I know, I know...the photos didn't paste in and I will have to do them one at a time...I'll get 'round to it I promise...managed the first dozen, more to come) Part One-Wind And Watertight For Under £6k I'm new to blogging and probably have nothing much in terms of knowledge to impart but some of you might be interested in building on a low budget so here goes. After many years on the waiting list we got offered a plot on the famous West Highland Way about 3 miles north of the starting point in Milngavie, just north of Glasgow. For £4k we get a 20 year ground lease around 100ft square, ground rent is £90 per month and of course membership of the community group that collectively owns the whole estate. See more about Carbeth Hutters here http://www.carbethhu...o.uk/index.html we needed planning permission and Carbeth is itself a conservation area so we kept to the hutters spirit of ingenuity and self-everything and splashed out on some graph paper from the local stationers. We made several models from foam board (thanks JS Harris) and finally paid the fee and waited... I'll add the plans when I find them but permission was granted and we stated work digging the footings by hand. Oh I should say at this point so far we have not paid for one trades person nor used any machines other than a Makita saw and drill and a Hitachi gas nail gun. Many thanks to Dominic Stevens and this website for teaching me all I needed to know about the mysteries of marking out http://www.irishvernacular.com/ In May we braved the rain and pressed on building 14 (dodgy bricklaying) piers one big one using cobble stones the rest using concrete blocks from a reclaimed mono bloc driveway. Our near £2500 load of timber arrived and it was time to see if the 'water in a tube' method of levelling the piers was accurate or not...first big confidence builder-it was bang on level across a 4m span I really wish I had bought OSB flooring as the chipboard got soaked a dozen times...its fine now but we have a few swollen joints that will need attention before final floor goes down. Lots of wet days and rain dripping of noses but a nail gun is a great stress buster for us Social Work types and the wall panels and trusses were complete...time for a big hut raising weekend! The June weather was kind and we got a lot of work done but the tarps had to go back on as the floor was still getting soaked... Magic, frame complete Roof is almost there and again we had 8 volunteers over the weekend...including schoolboy nephews who kept wandering off with tools! Then end of June saw the EPDM roof being stuck on with the stickiest of glues but close to water proof at last. On the odd evening we managed to get the windows in... Got some nice doors from Gumtree for £40 so in they go and by the end of June we are almost there Insulation and building paper on Oh and Gumtree found us some kitchen bargains so shipped then up as its nice and dry inside now *smiley face* Cladding And Lighting Weather was sh#t all July so had to bash on through the rain... Sparrow Fart recommended the Hitachi nail gun and as I'm on my fourth box that's 7000 nails so far! 90% Finished...90% To Go... Nearly there...hearth and fire needed to go in as it was getting too cold to work... Got a reclaimed dance floor 57m for £250 so that went down too. Finished off the ceiling joins with some 5mm ply, looks okay. Finally got the dry toilet finished but not *commissioned* it yet. Put some furnishings in for a trial run. Just some plumbing, wiring and joinery to go. Oh and the view from daughters window... Diy Plans-Graph Paper And Pencil I am putting these images up simply to show that you do not have to employ professional help to submit planning applications. For most of you serious self builders designing the house of your dreams I suspect that this will be the only way to go but my little project is different from the norm in many ways. Firstly Stirling Council (in fact the single planning assistant that deals with the Carbeth community huts) is hugely helpful and happy to talk on the phone and comment via email. Secondly reading through previous applications I noticed that some drawn on foolscap (with imperial measurements) passed first time and the more professional architect drawn submissions had lengthy correspondence in the file. I went with the spirit of the old hutters and splashed out on some graph paper and a sharp pencil. I kept what I could vague so as to allow a bit of flexibility as the build progressed. Eight weeks to the day after submission we got a green light with four simple conditions. Having read some of your experiences out there I feel your pain and hope that ion the future this minefield of a system can be improved and made more consistent…I’m not holding my breath though… Attached Files Planning drawings 1-2.pdf (2.12MB) downloads: 75 Planning drawings 3-4.pdf (2.14MB) downloads: 29 Planning drawing 5.pdf (1.05MB) downloads: 26 Carbeth site plan hut no 3 Jan 15.pdf (254.28K) downloads: 28 Interior Fit Out And Decoration The low tech approach continues as does the re-use and recycle theme. Bought a load of Michelin road maps from the charity shop to make my feature wall background and topped then off with a few nice ones I picked up in Poland during the summer. Probably spent about 20 quid in all. Went to the local mental health wood recycling project (boy, they are not cheap!) and spend 15 quid on an old scaffolding board to make this kitchen unit. Might add some hooks underneath and a couple of shelves on the map wall to complete this corner. I might have mentioned before that around my office Monday is the day that the Council bin lorries come around for bulk uplift. The area is all tenement flats and there is no room for bulk trash in the back court so the local arrangement is you put it on a street corner before each Monday morning. It does make for an Aladdin's cave of goodies and there is a fair bit of 'help yourself' going on before the bin lorry arrives. in fact plenty of stuff is labelled, like a TV with remote control taped and a sign 'saying perfect working order'. Anyhow I helped myself to this worktop and slotted it in next to the beech free standing units from Gumtree to make a little sink unit. Looks okay I think...the rest of the worktop was cut up and kept the wood burner going to keep us warm during the freezing weather outside. Dry Toilet And No Smell Whatsoever Apologies for the pic of the loo, warts and all so to speak... This is the 'seperate' plastic toilet from Sweden that has a front funnel and back void. The thinking is to seperate the solid and liquid waste as it is the combination Of both together that causes the smells we don't like. Urine runs to a soak away and the solids and toilet paper (and sawdust which helps the drying process and Erm...helps the appearance should you peer into the pit!)end up in the bucket below. There is a small fan running constantly which you can just see on the floor behind the urine waste tube. The fan is powered from our 12v battery and draws next to no power at around 0.1 amps. This provides an airflow which removes odours and aids the drying process for the solid waste. Once the bucket is full it can be sealed with a tight fitting lid and left for 18 months when it will be safe to use as compost. Some folk toss it on the fire but not sure I fancy that job. Still needs a lick of paint but all in all very pleased this all works as promised in the literature. As the blog title says there is no smell at all and its really a pleasant smallest room. Balcony, Wood Store, Somewhere Nice To Sit Decided simple was best and to crack on with the decking out front. Rescued some fallen trees from nearby and rested them against a quickly assembled frame of 6*2 treated joists. This gave us a nice deck to work on the roof from... Always keep a tidy site Ebuilders...you don't want a wayward screw sticking into the foot of one of you volunteer helpers who come to play with trainers on! Bit of good luck, we had one 4.8 length of decking left over so fashioned up three nice steps to the front door. Lucky for us 800mm wide was just right. Finishing Touches If you wait long enough, what you want will come along in Gumtree. Seller said they were £100 per metre and I can believe that. 4m of them in the back of the car and the suspension was riding low! Anyhow, had no confidence in grouting these the normal way so borrowed a piping bag from SWMBO and took my time squeezing it into each gap so it was just proud. Ran a pencil around the gaps and hey ho it looks great. Now just some stove paint to buy and a few dozen more jobs before its finished... Exterior views

We don’t compost it at all as the other alternative is to burn it. Generally it needs emptied after a couple of months and I store it sealed under the hut then when I have a big garden fire going I pop it on at the end of the night and it turns to ash Its probably 90% sawdust and paper so burns quite well

A question about the compost loo, if I may @Tennentslager.. How often do you need to change the bucket, and do you have dozens of buckets composting? Is it one per weekend staying there say? The application I am debating elsewhere is whether a compost loo is suitable for an allotment, and I thought of this system. I guess the issue will be whether enough compost can be generated to be worthwhile, and whether one or two allotment-holders generate enough poo to fill a bucket quicker than it gets too smelley to be pleasant. Any comments would be most welcome. Cheers Ferdinand