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This thread NEEDS some pictures.

dumper converted and working well consists of a kwickstage upright 10ft with a length of thick walled steam pipe tack welded to the scaffolding pole brackets ,so I can reclaim the pole when done and bolted with brackets to the dumper at one corner -so i can still use it if needed in the mean time dumper can still tip fully ,pole end is close to ground when tipped It lifts every stone i have tried so far with no bending or even flexing average granite stone size I have been moving about is 700mm x 350m x 350mm. the capping stones for my big long wall. taking down wall to repair and rebuilding with morter ,not just dry so far 12t of sand 70bags of cement and only about half way will post pictures at some point

That's what I say when there is some distraught Mr Toad trying to squeeze past dangerously someone on a bike in order to get forward to the traffic jam at the next junction 7 seconds early, in order to wait 7 seconds longer.

Maybe? And please don't talk to me about nuclear waste. The absolute daftest person I personally know has a top job in the decommissioning sector and every night I heave a sigh of relief that we made it through yet another day without a serious cock-up in that department.

Have you been writing to the papers again. No need to go nuclear to temper global warming (1) Published 6 July 2022 From David Flint, London, UK Graham Reynolds asks us to choose between long-term storage of nuclear waste and “worldwide, incomprehensible damage to the climate” (Letters, 25 June). That would be a good argument for nuclear power if we had only two choices. But we don’t. We can also choose to sharply reduce energy waste and to rely on power from the sun, wind and tides to heat our homes and move our cars, buses and trains. This is the pragmatic solution because it needs only things we have already designed and built, and whose costs fall each year. It frees us from dependence on an industry that just can’t deliver on time and within budget. Why wouldn’t we choose the renewable option?

PIR won't work behind glass. Glass blocks the IR. And being an indoor (burglar alarm) sensor - it has no light sensor. There's several reasons it's so cheap. Both outdoor sensors have light sensors and adjustable timers.

If there’s glycol, drain down into buckets and pour it back in. And don’t let the dogs drink out of them ☠️

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Steinel-Infrared-Movement-Detector-Swiveling/dp/B002J93FU2/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B002J93FU2&psc=1 Another Steinel with a little bit less range but better price. Actually that's a very keen price. Toolstation want over £60 for it!

The last 3 posts are all technically correct, but many don't bother. All MCS approved inverters have anti islanding, in other words if the grid goes down they cannot continue to feed onto the LV network and potentially kill someone working on a line. Yes they want to keep tabs, but under 16A they don't care, if the argument is so they can keep tabs, then we would need to submit a cooking schedule so they could work out when we are all importing 16A. They know we have PV generation, they know to expect a slight reduction in energy demand on a sunny day where PV is prevalent, but we are talking 16A or less here. You can always install it and just fill out the form, many MCS accredited installers have not been sending in the forms for <16A systems and it has become fairly well known that there are systems on the grid not registered. If you do want to, install it all, the submit a G98 and put it in as self install - the ENA form doesn't mention MCS accredited.

There are so called "long range PIR detectors" such as: https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/product/steinel-sensiq-s-long-range-20m-300°-pir-sensor-black-109229 I'm sure you could get a better price than that.

You can line one side prior to elec-plumb fist fix and simply hold a patress against The board and drive a few screws in The side that isn’t boarded turn the c studs facing each other and slip the patres in and drive four screws through Or set a piece of roof baton 18 mil in on the flat side of the stud

i gave it a real test today and moved a tote bag of sand --no problem certainly a lot more than a 70year old and his wife can lift off and then replace onto the repaired wall LOL

I suspect the guidance you were looking at is what is allowed under permitted development. A true wrap around extension would need planning permission. Perhaps you can post a sketch of the plot layout and what you want. Are you sure you are not missing a trick here? Double garage, spaced a double garage width from the house, is going to be about 15 metres wide. Plenty to build another house.

No.

Decided to fit an anti gravity valve.... this will be fun! Must put it in facing the right direction....

Rule 66: Be considerate of the needs of other road users when riding in groups. You can ride two abreast and it can be safer to do so, particularly in larger groups or when accompanying children or less experienced riders. Be aware of drivers behind you, and allow them to overtake (e.g. by moving into single file or stopping) when you feel it is safe to let them do so.

Dead easy to create a “false” window or former for the brickies to build around in timber, just make sure the dimensions are accurate.

Formers are used on most sites now From enquiries I’ve made It tends to be the budget windows that do the formers If your window company do these You can push on

1.2m is a pretty substantial load to be retaining-imagine how much extra force will be exerted when it’s been raining for a couple of days. It’s something your architect and/or SE needs to design really. I’ve built houses where the wall is retaining far less (<500mm) we lapped membrane from the dpc at FFL up the back of the wall& back in to a bed joint 150mm min above ground level,with an additional dpc at that level which was lapped down to as the ground level fell away to meet with the dpc at FFL. Absolute PITA to be honest. No cavity ties in that zone too so not an ideal solution I’d say,but I didn’t spec it.

That is not good for a "professional" Did you get recommendations before choosing a decorator? Always unscrew sockets, if the decorator won't would you be happy to do that and re fit them when done? At least now you could unscrew them yourself, touch up the wall with a small brush, carefully scrape any dried paint off the switch before re fitting. And use Frog tape for masking, it's the only one I have found that actually does what a "masking" tape is supposed to and keep the paint out in a crisp straight line.

I agree with that, I only did it because it was still fixed to the brick columns and I simply bulldozed the garage into our pit! In fairness there was not a lot and it is so far down I actually don't think it will get a chance to rot as I backed filled it with clay first and mushed it down with water before I chucked in the rubble for a soakaway. It will be like that Egyptian Pharaoh's boat they found that was still intact because it was buried so deep it was essentially preserved!

This will give you a flavour, at least for the AroTherm Plus model: Operational clearances: Propane related fire-risk clearances, especially from drains:

Yes. The aim of a footing is to put the load onto stable ground so the depth from ground level to the bottom of the trench is key. It needn't be full of concrete. The depth of concrete is determined by the vertical load which in your case is minimal. It's up to you if you fill it to ground level with concrete or just put in a couple of hundred mm and build up with blocks. It's a pig to lay blocks below ground level so concrete might be the simpler option. My retaining wall is 600mm high and I went down 500mm and laid in 200mm concrete and came out with blocks laid flat. I had spare blocks on site and access was poor so went for this particular balance. Most important for long-term stability will be drainage. A perforated pipe on the foundation and back fill wth gravel one the side facing the ground you're retaining will help keep the wall in good condition. I used a vertical drain sheet on the back of the wall to drain the surface down to the foundation level which, being plastic, also stops water leeching through and messing up the pretty stonework.

In terms of the design, this is the BRE standard solution for garden retaining walls: https://imgur.com/a/LJAP6pV You need about 1800kg of ballast per 1 cubic metre of concrete and (depends on mix strength) about 250 to 300kg of cement. Using the foundation dims on that detail: 0.5 x 0.3 x 18 = 2.7m^3 of concrete Which would take about 5 tonnes of ballast and 700kg (28 bags) of cement. Not allowing for wastage and the extra sand and cement needed for the mortar. Handy link: https://builderhq.co.uk/guide/concrete-mixing-guide/

If you are using bulk bags, buy all-in ballast instead of separate stone and sand.

He’s looking rather grumpy.

We had a Brown long eared bat maternity roost in our existing dwelling. 2m minimum height was required and like for like was requested for the space so built a 12m x 6m garage, planning showed no interest in the size of the new garage which was a win. The underside of the roof had to be lined with bitumen F1 felt and entrance and exit points at each gable end. The south facing roof had to be filled with cement between the battens under the metal roof to retain the heat and a heater inside! Try for the garden office roof space.

Why are you even considering going down the mcs/bus grant with this? All it does is inflate the costs for everyone. Just buy a unit (personally, not r290 based, siting them is a faff) and pay a plumber to install it. It’s a pretty simple plumbing exercise really.

I was going to say (but nick beat me to it) that I’d mitigate this by either fitting a flap type nrv or a 2 port valve into the return line, right next to the buffer tank.

What make ASHP / controller is it? As @Nickfromwales suggests, our ecodan FTC6 circulates all pumps when transitioning from DHW back to cooling, which means I get a slug of hot water right the way through to the bedroom FCU. So I've put a thermistor in the heat exchanger of the FCU so it can shutoff the fan when the water temperature is above that of the room it is trying to cool! Avoids a blast of warm air hitting us at 4:30am All that said we also has a 3 port diverter valve (mid position valve, stupidly) and I do worry it lets some by. If I knew how to do plumbing I'd change that up.

It just gets tacked on with a few nails / screws and the plasterboard screws go through both and into the studs. An online example ( random grab ) LINK so you can check out their website to give you some ideas of the different products that are available to tackle this problem.

Phone the water company. They'll come out and find it. Likely been tarred over at some point.

The rubber makes a huge difference. I now use Killmat on any waste pipes over ground floor bedrooms / snugs etc as it works so well with the high frequency stuff, like water splashing etc.

Taking a slightly different tact here. Might I suggest that your neighbour potentially isn't a bad character at all. Perhaps he was slow to have the works completed due to covid worries and felt a duty to accept a pushy contractors "take it of leave it" offer and he went ahead out of a duty to you to reinstate the fence. Almost all disagreements are due to physiological effects, ( pain, tiredness, fear, hunger) combined with narrow communication channels, (e.g forums!) when the meaning gets lost. Pop round with a cuppa coffee and a few buns, chat face to face and importantly listen to the neighbours thoughts before you go any further. This will ensure you have all sides of the story to make a reasonable plan to rectify the situation. Remember the saying " a good neighbour is better than a far friend". With a consideration you might be able to use this situation to improve life both sides of the fence.

My advice (slightly off topic) would be to look away from scotframe. Its a circa 25% markup using them compared with others. Fleming homes (located in the borders) seemed to offer a very competitive price when compared to scotframe. As a background to the above... I'm located in Scotland and at the final stages just about to select a supplier for my kit currently between SIPS ECO (sips kit obviously) and fleming homes for their factory insulated TF kit. Either kit will be finished with render board and render mounted in batons to provide my external cover. I did weigh up block and render as that seemed more 'sturdy' but...it added cost to the insulated foundation for an extra ring beam..and I can't be doing with relying on brickies turning up and at ridiculous rates and having a messy wet trade. I'm aiming towards high levels of airtightness and insulation but not to passivhaus levels (budget driven). I'm also going for an insulated raft foundation semi DIY. Save yourself time and just look at Kores foundation system. Half the cost of others out there for me such as isoquick and izodom. From under your render board down to cover your insulated foundation edge you would use cem-rock I believe. That's what kore says and shows on their wall buildup. See attached. Hope this helps Kore IFS Standard Details Rev 4-TF_46.pdf

😂. “You got this” as the kids say….

But that's an indoor one. Wouldn't last past the first rainstorm!

Yes, it is not bad, not are surefooted at my old 309s. And nowhere near the grip in the wet. It does have an A2AHP in it, just to get the thread back on topic.

I often upgrade my thoughts and opinions. Not as often as I downgrade them though. In my mind, I have upgraded my car to a Porche, in reality, it is a rattle C-Max (which is in the garage at the moment to cure the rattle). Reality kicks in when I take a corner too fast.

Really? I agree with retaining wildlife habitat etc but when in the wild did bats have heaters 🤷‍♂️.

I also use spelunking for rapidly scanning through a document - like going through screen by screen just pausing for half a second to recognise where in the document it is. It's like abseiling down a cave in jumps 🙂.