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We’ve decided to use local authority BC again Call before 10am for same day visit 416m2 £720 including vat No limit to the The amount of visits

You are over complicating it. It is just like any other 2 zone heating system. Just use a 3 channel programmer, one for the UFH one for the radiators and one for the DHW and wire it as any other S plan system.

His speciality is actually diagnosing and solving damp problems in old houses and designing roof details. Our house is almost 100 years old and had quite a lot of damp, so before insulating it we needed to resolve that. So that is why we consulted him. He's also a nice guy and not stupid expensive.

Thanks for the prompt I’ve just re added mine

It was a means to an end and it can be OK, I built a wooden lean to which housed a lot of stuff so wasn't cramped. Would I do it again, nope, but then I wouldn't build a house again either! Been there, got the t-shirt, onto the next project which will involve learning how to lay bricks coz I've just about run out of money for my garage, gym and retaining wall?

Something for the romantics

I put rebates in my slab as part of the pour so I could have flush thresholds. So there are 50mm bits where the my 5m wide and 3m wide sliders sit. It was all then packed up to suit a 4mm LVT flooring, plus I made an allowance for a 3mm latex screed as my slab wasn't power floated. Worked out well. My underfloor heating is below my mesh attached to the insulated foundation with mesh on top ( but castles keep it off the pipes.)

Both of the above will ship all over the world So no problem to your location Both will send samples also If you go for a Spanish or Italian Your assured of the quality

File of layout supplied Have a look at building-innovation.co.uk its part of ecotherm and they supplied at a third of the price of Kingspan and was cheapest from about six suppliers. Bi20_130273_C-Green Lane, Leeds.pdf

Yes 12 mil tile x adhesive = 25 mil

The problem I had first time round was Private BC insisted on at least a couple of days notice Which is fine for most of the build But not workable with foundation We where on difficult ground and had a morning and afternoon visit for the first three days Probably the best money spent on the whole build

I would work the spans out - tbh 6x2 would be fine here - and go the long way across so the 4m span at 600mm centres and you will need to just drop in a row of pillars at each end and one in the middle if you turn it into a ring beam. I would use 2 blocks on flat and then one on the top of them to lift the base but unless you’re on very odd ground then you won’t sink as the ground pressure from 9 pads will be negligible.

thanks Craig. I was thinking of contacting you anyway but thought you only did triple glazed but looking at your website again I see that Zyle Fenster offer double glazed units. I've back to back meetings today so I'll give you a ring next week sometime to discuss options with you if that's ok.

While there are plenty of wireless temperature/humidity displays to choose from, getting the data out of them for our own home integrations is always a challenge. And while they're not always too expensive, things soon add up if you want them in every room. Throw in slightly more sophisticated sensing like PM2.5 or CO2 and the price skyrockets. I have mentioned before how I use low-cost BTLE thermo-hygrometers with custom firmware to expose their data as BTLE beacons. Gathering the data from these beacons and dumping it onto the local network as MQTT is a perfect task for an ESP32. So while I was thinking about 3D printing an enclosure for the ESP I came across this nifty little IKEA gadget that provides a PM2.5 air quality indicator in a rather nice looking desktop case: XIAOMI Thermometer next to a couple of IKEA VINDRIKTNING The VINDRIKTNING (or 'wind direction' translated) has a USBC port round the back and three LEDs giving a crude 'traffic light' readout of air quality. People have already hacked these to extract the sensor data and relay it over WiFi as MQTT for integration into Home Assistant or whatever. This struck me as an ideal 'base station' for my XIAOMIs while at the same time providing air quality data and anything else I could squeeze inside the box along with the ESP32. ESP32-CAM wired to IKEA VINDRIKTNING PCB ESP32 dev. boards tend to be a little bit bigger than ESP8266 so I had a job finding one that would fit. Oddly enough, the cheapest proved to be the ESP32-CAM which actually comes with a camera! As for getting more value out of the modification I also mounted a BME280 module on the ESP32 to provide temperature/humidity/barometric pressure as well as PM2.5 data from within the base station. Oh, and there's a light sensor that VINDRIKTNING uses to dim the LEDs so I fed that into an analogue input. There's also enough room in the box for a CO2 sensor but I've yet to wire that in. Unfortunately these additional sensor use some of the camera connections so a sneaky CCTV from this device wouldn't be possible when fully loaded with sensors. CO2 sensor at the bottom left of the enclosure The end result is a base station providing air quality measurements costing <£20 that can host numerous ~£6 thermometers. So today we lightly browned some toast mid-morning and accidentally burnt flatbreads while making supper: This base station is currently in the garden room, off the kitchen, next to a sliding patio door so the temperature swings quite a bit. However, In this position it picks up a thermometer about 20m away in the back garden, one inside the fridge and another in the kitchen. Those show up in different plots. Here is the barometric pressure and light level:

Personally I’ve never believed that gas boilers would be fazed out Certainly not in my lifetime We will go from a gas boiler to ASHP on our next build I’m expecting that it will be 20% more expensive to run plus a much higher initial outlay All on a very well insulated home What chance have these leaky homes that are having ASHP fitted retrospectively It all sounds like the solar energy program from a few years back Ten years down the line Is there going to be solicitors offering no win no fee to people who have been mis sold ASHPs

Yep. Very good point. Ours of course is the direct electrical and it is as simple as a simple thing.

You can get wood coloured marker pens for that specific type of job. Or use you kids felt tips and then wax

with the amount of mould growth I would imagine the heat exchanger inside is gutted. hate to say it but mould spore is hard to remove from duct surface. Physical brushing / cleaning / wiping is required in my experience.

Nod.. I think this needs some qualification from you as could be confusing to new BH members. For me it's about making sure that folk do things in a safe way and don't encounter problems later if someone asks for verification that the founds are ok. Yes there are many practicalities when you get on site.. like bucket size. Often to change buckets and try and dig founds of different widths costs more in time and increases the setting out complexity.. ground is mucky stuff and the spray painting lines say can get lost in the heat / excitement of excavating and getting started. Yes on a large commercial job with all the technical/ setting out back up varying found types are doable. You don't want to be digging for Britain (you'll get the sack as a designer) but we are talking self build / local builders/ diy here and what is practical in this context.

Money usually works ?‍♂️

When the cost of demolition, clearance, digging out and removal of 160m3, drainage inc twin pump sewage station, 90t hardcore, insulated foundation, 30m3 of concrete, power floated, then 3500blocks built to 3.15m wall height, roof joists and including labour at £14500 comes to £38000 then £34000 for the roof build up is hard to swallow.

Buffer can go in the same place the inside box goes now - and the whole point is that it stops the units cycling so much. I would find a space and let them crack on

Never heard of this before, but the wikipedia entry for Portland has this:

There are several ways to add a buffer.... https://blog.heatspring.com/2-pipe-versus-4-pipe-buffer-tank-configurations/ Figure 1 is what I have... In my case the room stats control the right hand side via a wiring centre. The wiring centre performs a logical OR function to control the manifold pump. The boiler/left hand side is controlled by a stat on the tank (and an optional timeclock). The left and right hand sides work independently from each other the only common thing is a Switched Fused Spur that powers both sides. However there are alternative ways. The two port system in Figure 4 is claimed to be more efficient but I've no experience of this approach.. The idea with thus approach is that flow from the boiler can go direct to the UFH. The buffer only takes "excess" water that the UFH doesn't need (for example if only one loop is calling for heat). I think this approach is better for ASHP systems as they have lower flow temperatures and this approach helps maintain the flow temperature.

Ok, have had a bit of back and forth with the architects but struggling now to come up with more changes to the front facade, including the porch design. These are the changes we've already made: 1. Incorporate velux roof lights to bring in more light to the centre of the house. 2. Increased window size on the 1st floor to match the ground floor one. 3. Keystone effect above the windows to provide a bit of detailing/design 4. Colour of bricks changed to red, windows and general details to white. Roof will be grey as it gives us a nice classic colour theme that we've seen and like. 5. Porch design - struggling a bit. The ideas that I have are: 1. Reduce the height of the porch to a standard sized rather than 2 storey - as the light is not being transmitted to the house and feels like wasted money on glazing. Even the double height space will not really be used for much. A standard sized porch will have shoe storage, coat storage and benches for seating. OR 2. Porch walls replaced with glass to give it a bit of a wow factor? 3. Some sort of design on the hipped roof between the 2 gable windows on the 1st floor ? A porthole seemed like a good idea but worried it would look like a 3rd eye somehow. Kind of stuck now and would really appreciate any help or suggestions as to what we can do within the current design to make it more visually appealing.

You need to get the plumbing and electrics done mate - can't live in the place until it is wet and the lights are on. To do this all bathrooms need to be done and tiled first and the kitchen plumbed and isolated if not in. At this stage you are nearly done anyways... You have to also ask yourself 'why would I want to live in a shithole?'. You are going to hate the place enough by the time it is done anyway - at least you have the opportunity to f*&ck off of an evening and leave it in the rear view mirror for a few hours - that is valuable in and of itself. Served notice on my rental last week - happy days. I would have probably topped myself if I had to live in a caravan. On the Fen. In winter... Yep - definately a bullet!

they dont do the warranty inspections though so you pay twice. on the plus side they really dont care and will pass anything.

Why don't you choose the floor finish you want and then set the threshold at the height above slab that matches the build up of your chosen finish? I've got just 4mm of poured resin flooring on my power-floated slab, and the thresholds are set down to match this.

Just got a quote....what was £2800 before is now £9500... what even the fu......... I hate structural warranties.

It was Radio 4 and they're a lying bunch of woke f***ers with an agenda.