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We received the certificate today: EnerPhit plus. Vital stats: 0.6 ACH (target: <= 1) 24 kWh/m2 heating demand (target: <= 25) 57 kWh/m2 generation (target: >= 41) Thank you so much buildhub for a 2.5 year crazy adventure

Not gonna lie, was buzzing to see the ASHP come to life so can get the UFH and DHW up and running and today was the day! I did all the plumbing for ASHP, UFH and everything else, got a preplumbed Ecodan which the spark powered up today. Few issues at first getting it going until.i realised that one of the pump valves I thought I'd opened was nearly closed - kept getting 'Low Flow' which as I'd 'opened' all the valves was puzzling until I realised I hadn't actually opened all of them?‍♂️ Not sure how long it will take for the house to get up to 20degrees from 14 but its going at it now. All set for a Christmas move in - few rooms Not finished but kitchen lounge and bedrooms good to go?(may have to shower in the van unless I can get a shimmy on and tile one of the ensuites - can't have it all?‍♂️) As an aside, doing all of the plumbing, ASHP etc as a.self builder really ain't difficult and I would encourage others to tackle it.

F plugs are about 10p each. Learn how to fit them to coax, it is very easy and robust and a quick way of making good patch leads just the right length. A much better connector imho that the old tv coax connector, especially the modern variants of that with a silly little tiny screw to clamp the inner connection to the pin (I much prefer the older, now hard to find ones where you soldered the inner core to the pin)

these are wise words. at the start I wanted everything perfect like it was on the drawings. it didn't take long to realise that reality is completely different to CAD drawings and building is just not a precise science. our Groundworker summed it up when he said 'building is basically a bodge'. by that he means that things will go wrong and so you find a solution to get over that and so on. then at the end of it all it's all covered up and forgotten about!

Yes standard F pugs on the splitter. But rather than use that splitter, replace your simple 1 in 1 out amplifier with a "distribution amplifier" that has 1 input and typically 4 or 8 separate outputs all individually boosted. Edit: post crossed with @joth who said much the same thing.

Decided we won’t have a log burner - it’s just wrong for our house and the environment ( understand perfectly though if you are non urban it’s justifiable ) . One of the very few neighbors that talks too me was only to happy to have the timber for their open fire . I have to split it and chop it up for them as they are old and most likely won’t survive the winter and a new Covid mutation ??

Sorry, bodgers. In and out, quick as. Imo bits of paper and certs can mean very little. Easy to buy into a club. A big problem is that as they've put a screw in from the top (again a bodge) they haven't kept the sill tight to the frame hence the gap. You might not be able to push the sill up as the screw threads will stop it. Did they use expanding tape or foam around the top and sides? Or is the foam packed you refer to pushed in foam? @craig?

Hello @LSB Hope this helps a bit and gives you some food for thought, even if just to help you rule things out. I have made comments / suggestions / rambling thoughts in italic in line with your text. Firstly don't depair and think the worst, hard to do when you are at the sharp end. I haven't posted to my blog for a couple of months, mainly because we haven't been able to progress until we got the Structural Engineers report. This was promised in 2 weeks and ended up taking 10. Hopefully they dropped you a note explaining why things were taking longer as a common courtesy. I now suspect that this was because they didn't want to tell us the news. Don't suspect anything at this stage keep an open mind. Our build is a barn conversion so we've had to jump through lots of hoops. ,making lots of money for other people. But you will have something a lot of folk would give their back teeth for. But, particularly for the SE, first it was the report where they said to planning that the barn was convertible. The SE may have been looking at the condition of the walls and could they be retained as planning constraint, maybe that was their brief? Cost would not have been a significant factor. Then the 1st phase ground contamination report, no issues there. Good. Planning approved with condition of phase 2 contamination report. No significant problems constraints with that? Any other conditions other than just getting the investigation done? Then we started preparing the site, documented in previous blogs, we did this thinking that it would benefit us with the SE report to get the building regulations drawn. How wrong we were. Maybe not.. just by messing about on site you can gather valuable information that can be used to solve a problem. One of the limitations of the barn conversion was that one side of the building can only be 2.2m high. We worked around this by designing rooms so it wasn't needed for walking. Yesterday, I received the report, only to be horrified to see that this low side of the building, 2.2m remember, needs underpinning foundations of 'at least' 2.4m. How can a single storey build possibly need foundations deeper that the height of the building. The opposite side is 3.15m high to the roof, here the SE say we only need 1m deep foundations, figure that out. The soil is not clay, not sand, there are a few 3" elm trees that are being knocked down so no large roots. From what you have said it seems like the soil is the crux of the matter. The roof loadings and the self weight of the wall are not onerous given the size of structure you have. I'm just speculating but are the walls close to a boundary with trees on the other side? Has the SE not realised that the Elms are young and to be removed.. then speculated that they will grow into large trees? It could be a simple lack of communication! Digging deeper if this is not a communication issue. You mention that the soil is neither clay nor sand. It may still bit bit expansive.. prone to swelling / shrinkage.. much depnds on which part of the UK you live in. Some of the Gault (fissured) clays in England are sensitive to ground and moisture changes, If for example you live in parts of Northern Ireland, Norfolk, Stirling in Scotland, the Severn type estuary regions in Wales then the ground can move about to a good depth. Another thing is that your SE may have identified a band of silt.. so not clay or sand.. and this is another type of material. Silts are tricky to build on so maybe the SE has, luckily for you picked up on this. But, it gets worse, they say that this must be done 1m at a time, doing 1st meter, then 3rd meter, then 5th meter, then 2nd meter etc.etc. This particular wall is 25m long. They have no issues with the existing internal walls. Unless you have spent say 10k plus on a pretty comprehensive ground investigation.. maybe with an interpretive report I can't see (willing to learn though) the justification for concluding that the founds can be significantly shallower for the internal wall.. which may be load bearing to some extent. This makes me lean back towards the trees rather some tricky layer of soil in the ground. I've never been so glad to be stupidly busy at work to take my mind of this fiasco. So, what do we do. Relax! Have a chat with the SE. The thoughts I have are: 1. Can we knock down the back wall leaving the rest and build only 1m deep like the wall on the opposite side, but I would still need to get planning. 2. Do we write off all the work we've done and all the money we've spent (lots) and try and get planning to start from scratch with a kit house. It would have to be self build though due to the extremely limited funds available. 3. The long wall splits into utility, 2 x bathrooms, 3 x bedrooms and a pantry. Do we knock down the wall for each room and then rebuild it bit by bit and with what foundations. 4. Do we start on the high side of the conversion and work backwards ignoring the problem for now. The sides vary from 1m front to 2m foundations at the back. The most disappointment I feel is that the SE passed the building as fit to convert, including digging holes to look at the existing foundations with no mention of anything like this. I don't know if it makes any difference, but the original SE was probably about my age, in his 50's, whereas the recent one (same firm) was barely out of nappies and didn't want to talk to us when he was here to discuss anything. What I have done is: a. Requested a meeting with the SE and his manager to ask why so deep and about a new wall. If we can knock down the wall and put in 1m foundations then that is manageable as with the digger we can knock the existing one down and dig the trenches before getting a groundworks crew to do the rest. b. Started compiling an email to send to the planners, but with the current situation I don't think I will hear anything. Also, I'm a bit wary, if we say what is required can they pull our planning and still not allow us a new build. c. Started looking at some kit companies who provide self build kits to get some ideas of costs. The one thing that we cannot do is dig down 600mm x 2.4m a meter at a time. Maybe a groundworks company could, but at what cost for what, in reality, is a tatty barn which, if we could have got planning we would gladly have knocked down and crushed. I spoke to the planners after we got planning to ask about this route and we told that we had no chance. Here's a little reminder of the layout. In summary see what the SE's have to say. If you get no joy then dive back on BH. Provide as much info on the ground as you can and some cross sections so we can see where the roof loads go, the wall thickness and so on. BH members can then have a few more bits of info to work with. Look forward to your next post/ blog once you have got over this bump in the road. All the best.

You can fit without top rubber (some people think the black rubber looks like mold so don’t want it) but then needs a good flexible clear or white ct1 or silicon

The insulation should be installed gap free, heat will just bypass the insulation, effectively taking the easy route. Two options remove and replace with better fitting pieces. Or foam fill the gaps to full depth, cut back flush once hardened. What ever is done all joints should be taped with aluminium tape. Is insulation going above or below, to mitigate repeat bringing through the wood?

Use CT1, both above the tray and below. Every time you undo it there's more likelihood of damaging the rubber, so do it bombproof once. +1 for the macalpine, available in Screwfix or Toolstation (just check the size of hole in the tray)

I’ll reply here rather than PM. Unfortunately I don’t have anyone local to you and I’m not planning to be in the area until January at the earliest. Install guide is clear on the fixing of sills. Yes it’s a pain the **** to fit the windows once they are fixed but it’s how they should be fitted and what they’re getting paid to do. If they wan’t paid the remaining amount and they will. They’ll put it right, maybe with gritted teeth but they will.

Yes, windows out and sills and windows fitted as per manufacturers instructions is best but I thought the OP did not want the windows to be removed. They should have screwed the sills in first. Like a scene from White Gold!

Thanks @Onoff replied via PM he sent but without seeing/knowing all the facts it’s difficult to be critical. I don’t like being critical of others installs unless absolutely necessary or I’ve been called in as an independent “expert” i use the term loosely as I’m still learning the trade every day. However, saying that. There is certainly issues which shouldn’t have occurred. Packers should remain in place as it keeps the frame square. Think heel and toe of glass, frames are the same. From what you can see in pictures, the honest answer is I’d kick my guys in the nuts, apologise to the client and tell them to get it sorted (properly).

Simplest yes, but not the long term solution. Silicon degenerates and goes hard. Then you will have to scrape it out and replace it. The boss of a good window company will despair at this (and be glad you told them), and get it remade at their own expense.

I used McAlpine Hi-Flow shower wastes at our last place. No leaks. https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/shower-traps-accessories/st90cp10-hp2c-112-90mm-hi-flow-shower-trap https://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/traps/cat831610?trapapplication=shower#category=cat831610&brand=mcalpine&trapapplication=shower

Main reason for the the thermal store is for the summer to divert solar PV to immersion. Hopefully will not use any or very little gas in the summer. No real economy being looked for, I wanted a combi, my wife wanted to be able to run 3 showers at the same time (and we can) we also have PV and wanted to self consume as much as possible; so have an immersion diverter. In the past, the combis I have had, always flowed less in winter compared to summer, so some preheat in winter gives me summer (or better) performance all year round, we are using a similar principles to the Superflow, see attached. The water is quite a bit warmer coming of the thermal store DHW coil than when it goes in, not hot but the stores only at 40 degs. In the summer the water will come out DHW coil and temperature controlled by the tcv and pass through the combi without further heating; as the boiler is designed to take preheated solar water. The water from stop cock is 22mm to the thermal store, with a reducer at the outlet of the temperature control valve from the DHW coil to the combi. Combi-SuperFlow-White-Paper-v1-2-4.pdf

Yes they can work: installed on the female F-type on the amplifier or wall plate, and then use a traditional UHF flylead. Alternatively you can get the opposite gender adapter to get directly in the back of the set, female F-type and male uhf

Be very aware that to qualify for Class Q this must be a conversion and incorporate the existing structure, not a replacement. This seems very stupid and petty in your case, but it is the law and from what you have mentioned your local authority would keenly enforce it. I understand that new foundations are a no-no for Class Q.

Sensible approach , if you have a preferred option just ask why cant we do this ? Our roof was designed by an SE the first design was, from an engineering point of view ,amazing a 10m span from the eaves to the ridge supported by 1 steel beam on each side at 8m , unfortunately from a construction and cost point of view very expensive and to quote the builder " i can do it but you can forget about one days crane hire i will need it onsite everyday until all 98 of the 9m long 2 x 9's are in place " he suggested we add 1 additional beam on each side, use 4.8m 2 x 7 timbers @ 600 centres rather than 400 . Put his suggestion to the SE and the reply was well you could do it that way if you want to and it might save you a bit in materials !

They look like F-types, same as sky/virgin use. A photo looking in the end of the connector would help. Generally the modern standard is to use F-type everywhere and just convert to UHF coaxial plug on the flylead going to the back of the set itself. You might want to save some bother and buy a dedicated distribution amplifier which had multiple F-type outlets built in. Your existing amplifier maybe more of a mast head booster than a distribution amp, they have different purposes. E.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Labgear-LDA2061LR-Way-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B00J623O88/ref=asc_df_B00J623O88/

You do realise your elderly neighbour points and says "That's the bloke that's always got wood for me!"

Let me tidy a few points up. It is not a fiasco, and it would be unwise to suggest that to your Engineer. I foresee a solution 1. Trees will the the issue here. 2.4m depth is normal enough if the trees are, or will be be tall, with high water demand, and the ground is liable to shrinkage. 2. Clay is the worst*. It expands and shrinks seasonally. If the ground was sandy, or the trees were pine or bushes really, the requirement would not be for 2.4m 3. The foundations are designed for the eventual heights of the trees not the current. 4. the depth is less elsewhere because it is further from the trees, and nothing to do with the building size. Now, you say the trees will be 'knocked down'. Does the Engineer know this? Even if he does, the trees' effect on the ground will continue. They could grow again if the stumps remain. For at least the next year after the trees are removed, the ground will move as the conditions have changed. the likelihood is that the ground will slowly get wetter, to many metres, and the clay will swell, and the ground will rise. Discuss this with the Engineer and ask for confirmation. then don't build your foundations for a while. The trees should then be removed asap, to let the winter water seep slowly into the ground (again clay is the worst for this, and will take time to wetten. BTW underpinning has to be done in 1m lengths or there is no support and the wall falls down. * Clay is made of millions of layers of silt washed into a lake a very long time ago. These layers allow water between them and expand. Then trees suck the water out and it shrinks again. At 2.4m down the tree does not drink the water, hence taking the foundations down to there.

It looks like rain could easily find its way in, especially if it is blown by wind. Once it is in there it will be trapped. Also cold air can circulate around the frame.

I would say address that question to your gas safe plumber. If he is willing to install and certify a second hand boiler, then I don't see a problem. All BC want is the gas safe certificate. They are not going to ask the age of the boiler unless it is obviously old and tatty perhaps.

You'll need to install attenuators on the supply and extract ducts. This not only reduces fan noise but also external noise. With semi rigid ducting, insulated exhaust/inlet ducts, I don't see it being an issue. We have our external ducts in place in our new build but no mvhr yet, and I can't hear anything coming in through them.

We are based in NE Scotland, labour costs are quite low, for your info

Rip it out and start again. Clean all the silicone off of it, every last bit. Was the trap the same make as the tray? Sometimes the trap rubber washers are generic thus a bit of a crap fit to that particular tray ( so said your uncle way back). I can only go by what I did and the tips given. I ditched one washer and loaded with Sika EBT. The top side has come out really well IMO. I wasn't overly fussed about underneath. Baby wipe around and walk away until set: Did the same with the overflow:

my money is on trees being the issue as even 1.5m would be overkill on clay in the absence of trees, piling would be cheaper.

Every SE I have ever used has massively over engineered the project - they always keep in mind that they are sticking their PI on the line with each design. If you have a decent building inspector it may be sensible to dig out a section and get them to inspect and to tell you what they consider appropriate. If you are sat in decent firm clay I can't imagine they would be expecting a massive depth.

Yes and very well done to you for seeing it through with a good result. What frustrates me is we have a government set on a path of slap a bit more insulation in and slap a heat pump in and that's the UK housing stock fixed and carbon neutral. I think they have totally under estimated the challenge ahead that they have portrayed as simple fix. There are going to be a lot of disappointments along that path.

Keep the battens. Fill any void with dry mix sand /cement 5:1 tamped down so it is level with the tops of the battens not above them. Then lay your engineered board fixing to the battens.

Mine is installed in our warm loft, and yes when up in the loft I can hear outdoor street noises more clearly than elsewhere, however it doesn't transmit this noise past the MVHR unit itself so we don't get those noises in bedrooms etc. (Just a bit air movement noise as expected) I've read some people have MVHR unit in a cupboard in a bedroom, I'd be very wary of the noise leakage from that.

That will be a Number 2 then.

Thank you for showing us what is possible. Before this thread I had never heard of enerphit. Now we just need to get the rest of the UK housing stock updated to this standard......

min £1500m2 for basic, complicated and nice fittings more like £2000m2. Best bet is to get your plans drawn up and have them QS'd then you will know to the penny what it will cost, its cheap to do as well. https://www.estimators-online.com/

think id be inclined to tuck it under the neighbouring tiles to make a smart job if it similar to whats been posted above.

Looks like the Pi can load a MAC address override during kernel boot. https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/68513/pi-using-a-random-mac-address-after-every-reboot-how-do-i-stop-this-behavior /boot/config.txt Perhaps you have that set in the SD card image you are using Btw MAC addresses are only supposed to be globally unique if allocated in the global (not locally administered) range, see b1 of the first byte in https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address That said I've seen manufacturers fail to assign unique addresses even within the so-called globally unique range. If you imagine a mass produced low cost devices (ESP32 *cough* *cough*) with multiple manufacturing lines running at once, perhaps in different buildings/cities, it takes a lot more time effort and money to coordinate all the lines to guarantee each device is unique, and no MAC addresses wasted (they are a limited resource after all). Much easier to blat a random address into each device and just hope no two identical snowflakes ever meet in the wild.

For me my heart said yes but head said no. I was dead set on a bloody boiler cooker too. I couldn't make any financial payback with it. (37 years Vs A2A @ less than 3 in theory) That was with free wood too. Passive class house mind you. Really poor for airtightness. If your house burns down here, apparently you'll need to prove you had a chimney sweep before your insurance pays out. Interior pollution. It's immediate and apparent unless you're super diligent. I want to minimise my chances of lung trouble. Chopping timber is dangerous. It's a labour to clean and fuel the thing daily. It does give a sense of purpose to the day when older or idle. Much like milking cows or walking the dog. It's nice to be able to blast a room up to sauna like temperatures with little guilt of a high electricity bill. All my hard work with thermal bridging and airtightness would be thrown out the window by having a 5kw stove capable of heating the house to Sahara like temperatures with no effort regardless. Fire is natures TV. Theres a smugness and security about having 10 years timber in the shed. Preparing timber can be therapeutic. I don't miss having ash dust over every surface In the living room like our previous house. Chimneys are a weak spot in the roof. Good stoves and flues cost a packet. In well insulated houses they can become an ornament. Fire is a visceral caveman pleasure that had defined us a humans for millennia. Fire might burn the house down and kill your family. Fire is good for disposing of things you never want to see the light of day again. I'm rambling now..........

If you are in a urban environment no need for a log burner.

We used British Gas (was three years ago) for the meter install (three phase) and as you say no problem. They even gave us £60 back when we had been asked "do you want a smart meter"? Then they realised no such thing was available at the time....

Morning wood.

??? you mean one department talks to the other?