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SuesieG

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    Planning the build of a close-to-passivhaus replacement dwelling.....
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    N.Staffordshire

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  1. Interesting to read all this as we are currently building - we are 360 sqm house ( 3 bed plus 2 bed granny annex - effectively a pair of semis with shared plant room and utility room). we will be the equivalent of passivhaus standard for insulation & air tightness with triple glazed windows - timber frame due aug 7th We are having ASHP with wet UFH downstairs. Also MVHR of course. we've had both SAP calcs done and Heat loss cals We've lived with wet underfloor heating upstairs & down stairs for the last 30 years in our last self-build so fully understand how it works as well as MVHR. We will not be having ufh in bedrooms this time (response time is too slow & we like cold bedrooms overnight plus we are far more insulated & airtight) so upstairs - debating which way to go : 1. bathrooms - wet underfloor heating & towel rail OR electric underfloor & towel rails 2. bedrooms - no heating - but putting in either electric points for future electric radiators if needed OR pipework ready for radiators if needed in future We also have 12Kw solar pv with 17.4Kwh battery storage and 3 phase electric supply. We too have large glazed south facing windows - for the stunning views (not a telegraph pole in sight!) but we have planned them with 1.5 meter overhangs & brise soleil to prevent overheating. so electric or wet upstairs??
  2. I would be very interested to hear what you find out from the visit & how big the house is & how many occupants. Luckily our DNO upgraded our area to 3Phase recently!! however we did pay to have our cable put underground.
  3. Very interested to read this thread as we are in exactly the same position. We've lived with underflooor heating downstairs & upstairs plus MVHR for the last 25 years and are now building our second house which will be approaching passivhaus standard and considering our options for all systems. I think we have decided that whilst we may go for the HPV unit for the ventilation side of things we are not prepared to risk it all on that so will have wet underfloor downstairs provided by an outdoor ASHP plus heated towel rails in bathrooms . we are also having 12kW of solar pv, batteries and solar diverter to immersion heater in hot water tank. I might add that we are quite a large build at 350sq m but this is a house & granny flat. There will be no other heat sources (log burners etc) You thoughts very welcome too
  4. We have lived with a powerful but simple Genvex MVHR system in a largish house since 1995 - it has an integrated extractor with a washable metal grease filter (like fuzzy wire)and a boost button by the hob. Blissfully quiet and it works wonderfully well with no grease build up issues as long as the filter was washed about 3 monthly. We are intending having similar in our new house build - I have no desire to have a noisy extractor fan or one which recirculates into the room.
  5. Yes I meant 30cm 🙈🙈 cold high roof hence the lower insulated ceiling at 8ft so we can use whole osb boards!
  6. Yes garage is existing, built from big "figure of 8 shape " concrete blocks with a screeded floor & high cement fibre pitched roof. We intend dry lining with 75mm PIR insulation and OSB board. Floor to be similar with mdf flooring, ceiling to be put in with about 30mm Rock wool. Putting in the small mvhr which is in the existing house which I know does help even in a leaky old house - especially in bathrooms.but I understand its limitations. There will also be opening windows. No chimney but have existing twin walled flue and logburner to be reused and a free supply of timber which we are well used to using - farm! Garage is 30m from house. We have 3 phase available at the fuse box. Heating load for new house will be low as building to roughly passivhaus standard. My craft workshop and the gym will be used year round
  7. Thanks... We have a wood burning stove so that's no cost & don't see the point of storing hot water for future intermittent use so we had come to the conclusion too that either a single powerful electric water heater to do sink & shower or seperate ones is best. Then add electric resistance heaters where necessary.. At least one in the shower room! As we have no experience of these we were looking for reassurance that this would be best.
  8. Suggestions please on the best/most economic way to provide hot water and heating without using gas in the following situation: A 7m x 7m x 2.4m, well insulated, temporary accommodation for us while we build (max 1 year hopefully), which will ultimately be used intermittently as part craft workshop/part gym. size (approx 7m x 7m) which will ultimately be split into two rooms Walls are concrete block dry lined with 100mm insulation and OSB board Floating floor - 50mm insulation & board, insulated ceiling There will be a simple MVHR system in place to provide ventilation Living area ( to become a craft room), bedroom, shower room, small office (to become gym/workshop) Living area will have a log burning stove in 12kw solar panels on the roof ( for use with house also ultimately) Eventual use will require hot water - preferably instantaneous, as it will be used occasionally and often for shortish periods . Heat from the log burner in the craft workshop will be sufficient.
  9. We will be demolishing a brick/block built bungalow which has foam filled cavities (blown in & rigid). Has anyone had experience of issues this creates and whether the resulting rubble is useable as hardcore and how the foam is removed! Not yet spoken to demolition companies but will be doing soon. Thanks
  10. There's a longer backgound story to this to do with embodied carbon - but keeping it simple.... We are contemplating alternative roofing materials for our new build and need to know if/what the impact on the design of the construction of footings and structure will be if we have to use tiles over our choice of seamed metal. The metal roof covering weighs about 2 tons the tiled roof more like 22 tons. We are planning to use a timberframe construction too. Do we need beefier footings = more concrete and beefier timberframe = more timber? At this stage we'd prefer not to pay a structural engineer to actually work it all out as the design is still a bit fluid and hope we can get an idea from yourgoodselves! Comments gratefully received. thank you
  11. ??? you mean one department talks to the other?
  12. Hi folks. Thanks for letting me join this forum, we're looking forward to sharing information and learning lots! We're just starting out on a replacement dwelling for the bungalow my father built in the 1950s. It'll be our 2nd self build... Or rather self managed build - with some physical input from us all. Our 1st was 25 years ago. This one is to be approaching passivehaus probably and maybe a timber frame build. We also have yet to gain planning and we are fortunate to have a stunning location. We're a very practical 60something couple with a 30 something married son +DIL who we will be sharing it all with. We're planning to build a house which provides 2 separate living areas and kitchens, but shares a utility room and plant room, so it can ultimately be one house when we've popped our clogs! Looking forward to the journey!
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