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I used 3 layers of Rockwool slabs, cross layered. 140mm,70mm and 50mm in the walls. Also 40mm Pavatherm on the outside of the studs. In the photo you can see the 70mm being fitted horizontally. The slabs are very manageable with zero waste.

+1 Wall tiles would have looked like pi$$y little rips there. Cut floor tiles will look much better. As Uncle Nick taught me: Put an upside down tile on 1mm / credit card thick packs. To get your cut line etc.

If your not looking to tile in one hit A row of tiles down the centre will look better and make it easy to work middle to either edge once set Unfortunately you will have to wast the middles of the upstands as they won’t have a glazed edge

As everyone else says, get a set of 1M long SDS bits. Done it loads of times. If the wall is rubble in the middle get a sleeve ready and an assistant to push the sleeve in from the other side as you withdraw the drill. 25mm drill and a bit of 22mm copper is a perfect sleeve for 15mm.

25mm drill bit with a 22 mm copper pipe sleeve and 15mm pipe inserted in sleeve. ends of pipe/sleeve sealed.

SDS plus to max adapter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/121009-Chuck-Adaptor-Shank-Makita/dp/B00JRD0CMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?

But only half way! .. which I can do easily.

3ft long 25mm cheap SDS drill with a piece of conduit over it.

Watching this like a hawk as I have 1 bar of 4g or nothing, weather dependant.

Well I'm impressed. No quibble refund via PayPal when I cancelled my order with Banggood.

The level shifts you are talking about I would not worry about PD or not, I would just do it. Te the garage, take the retaining wall alongside the garage with a gap so you are not piling soil against the garage wall. If you have building rubble that will need disposing of so get rid of that first and then determine final levels by what is needed to use up the soil.

Okeydokey. Just bouncing ideas around!, will it be finished by Wednesday.?

again NO, your not being OCD, it’s not right, end of ?

I’ve been helping a friend extend his house I advised him to do the same and it looks really professional Its so easy to drift with floor tiles Laying a row down the middle gives you a real solid base to kneel on But more importantly two parallel straight edges

Regarding the cuts, just cut them twice, you cannot put a cut edge up against a factory edge it will look shit.

then its not marble --just that you could have polished up cut edegs if they were marble so when you cut them what colour is on the cut edge --maybe different than top ?

or one floor tile dead in middle of door way ? Iwould play about and see what going to look best and see how cut bits at edge are going to work out

It happens in Australia. North of Brisbane on the Bruce Highway is a sales yard where you can go and buy a second hand timber Queenslander type house and they will transport it and re erect it. These were never built to be portable but they literally cut them in half and stick some girders under them and transport them on low loaders. I saw a tv program about it, they have to travel at night with a police escort as abnormal loads.

Sorry a bit late to this thread, I don’t rate architects much (sorry) and I designed our house myself, and don’t think I need an ID either, ours is “cottage” and magnolia all over till we live in it for a while, I also think colours should come from furniture, curtains etc. We know what we like so why do we need someone to tell us this?.

Even if you pass it may be worth spending a day or so plugging any gaps with foam or tape or OSB. It is annoying when you have plasterboard on dabs. You can get SAP to treat the space between plasterboard and wall as a low-e gap, which add to insulation. The reality is that mostly it allows cold outside air to freely circulate.

150mm rockwool in a 140mm frame would fit as it is in compressed bales when it is sent to site but you would find your Frametherm (Not DriTherm as that is for masonry cavities) 37 would probably be closer to 0.385 due to the compression of the product reducing the air space. Either way it will be suitable and full fill means it is easier to install and not worry about it moving in a partial fill.

Assuming that the flow rate and heat capacity of the water is constant, then temperature difference is a pretty good proxy for heating power, and then multiplied by time gives energy. Essentially it sets the size of the lumps in which the heat pump delivers energy - the idea is probably to reduce short-cycling without affecting comfort too much, and changing the parameter allows you to vary whether you prioritise avoiding short-cycling (big number) or achieving a very stable temperature (small number). Basically you want the biggest number where you don't notice any issues with comfort.

Just saw this post I’ve had to watch it!! It now makes me feel good about the speed of my project ?

I saw in play at the Nags Head pub, High Wycombe, in 1977. Knew he was good then, Declan Patrick MacManus.

I don't think we can compare a cafe with a house purchase. Shared equity/help buy schemes are a con. They don't help people on the housing ladder, they help the rich get richer. Every few months of so, you come across a BBC article about some young twenty year ago, saying how they saved £10,000 deposit to buy a 2 bedroom developer home and now have a massive mortgage. Young people read this propaganda and fall into the cycle. If you are a young couple, both go to Uni £80,000 worth of debt, struggle to get decent graduate jobs, then buy a crappy over priced developer home with 10% or 5% mortgage and that is you sorted with a chain around your neck for the rest of your life.

Poor hungry me going into a cafe and having to pay their profits so I can eat!

The staircase technique ?.

We spoke to a couple IDs exactly for this, and quickly realised they really didn't want to help and it was a lighting designer we really wanted. Fell in love with the first LD we spoke to and made a massive difference to our plans (and, bank balance... ?) We're now just doing the paint selection ourselves, various shades of white everywhere except the snug which is thick with F&B brinjal estate emulsion. We'll regret one or the other (or both) of these choices, but... we'll learn from both the decisions and paint is easier to change than moving/adding light fixtures

I'm only building a garage, therefore requiring just a small proportion of trades and services/suppliers compared to most, and I'm really beginning to wish I hadn't bothered managing the project. As soon as I get my head around a problem or source what I need which makes me feel like I am making headwind, I often get let down by trades or strung along which adds further delay. I am starting to think it's an idea to back off a bit and chip away one at a time rather than try and pre-empt everything and make stress for myself that I don't need to. It's as if the more I try and find out, the more questions I find than answers which is frustrating. The more answers I discover the more I feel I could otherwise crack on and make better progress if I wasn't waiting for others.

We came in at £780 5 bed 3 bath Traditional built to a high standard I expect to keep under a £1000 m2 for our next one

no drama. You need a pumped chamber, big barrel with a pump in it that works of a float (not floaters). They are not that expensive, oversize it. https://www.plasticdrainage.co.uk/underground-drainage/septic-tanks-and-sewage-treatment-plants/pump-chambers

We have stick built primarily for cost saving, will share the actual cost later but hopefully £50K+ saving, fortunately have some time and energy though I do feel a bit bushed in a good way at 53 and the challenge and satisfaction from it all. Also having the support of my Dad, he's 74 has been invaluable and an opportunity to spend time together. Maybe that sounds a bit odd. I am still enjoying it.....

But you will need to drill more holes to get the beads in ?????

That’s exactly what’s happening.... time to order some beads! ?

and you end up with a cavity wall (after a long time) ?

Ah. A technique I use is to withdraw completely and re enter the hole repeatedly until the cave ins pack tight and stop. I was reluctant to type that!

Move house, it will be easier in the long run. Or go and buy a longer drill bit, drill all the way through and push in a bit of 20mm plastic pipe as you retrieve the drill. Then slide through the copper.

Yep. You then get a factory edge on top. You remove the 1mm packs when the tile adhesive has gone off. Then ram in clear CT1 and baby wipe off. Finish with a fillet of your choice of coloured silicone. (& remember to only take photos of the good bits ? )

Yes, but does he ?????.

Thought that's what he was doing?

Get yer uncle round! ?

Does that mean SWMBO could go for 3 months then I could go after? That'd work... Thinking further if she did Jul/Aug/Sep then I went Oct/Nov/Dec it'd take us into the next year and start all over again......

SWMBO busy?

Thank you for the encouragement. I have been going 5 years, only another 3 to go then. When we set out to build our retirement home, I did not realise I would still be building it after I have retired......

That's how we built our house. One step at a time, never having trades lined up, who'll let you down. Mind you it took us eight years .