ash_scotland88

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About ash_scotland88

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  1. Because a few degrees off make all the difference. If my house is 19degrees I am comfortable, if it's 17 I'm starting to feel cold. Alternatively if it's 14degrees outside it's jeans and a top, if it's 16 it's shorts and t-shirts. Yet 16degrees in the house is cold but outside it's warm. Weird, innit. I'm finding your reluctance to accept a phrase coined in an industry to use it's correct meaning incredibly frustrating. It's like going to France and refusing to believe "petit dejouner" is breakfast as it litterly translates as "small lunch" then telling everyone it's wrong and doesn't mean breakfast and you don't have a small lunch, you only eat a breakfast and lunch. /Rant over
  2. An example of this is Truss. To most in here it will mean a roof trussing. For me my first thoughts are Prolyte Truss* (other brands are available). There's other terms that I have had to translate moving from event work to construction stuff, which I can't think of off the top of my head. *https://shopmtn.eu/products/prolyte-h30v-square-truss
  3. @TonyT it may be but I think going low voltage with this all in one sensor may the best solution. My hope is the garage (we didn't get to see inside of it when viewing the house) at street level has power than I can use to power the "gate sensor." I company that sells in the UK has come back with the price of £25 per unit, which will be even cheaper than having to buy various seperate sensors doing quick head maths. Depending on cable requirments this is where costs may equal.
  4. I still think upstairs rad is plumbed into the return of the system. Can't remember what my basis is on this.
  5. There's not but they do an IP65 box. I think some models the sensor is on a cable, and other units can't sync to have multiple control points. Found the website a tad over complicated.
  6. Found a solution. Hypertronik HC019V http://www.hytronik.com/products/dual-photocell-microwave-motion-sensor-hc019v.html which can be synced together Which will then be paired with a 24v dimmable driver eg https://www.bltdirect.com/osram-60w-optotronic-24-2v-programmable-led-driver Along with 24v e27 dimmable lamps (and housing) I was hoping I could run one 7core armoured cabled, but there's conflicting quick reading suggesting this is ok. 7 core= L240v N240v E240v (not required) L+ 24v L- 24v Sync cable. Thoughts? Have I miss understood?
  7. Thought I'd ask here to see if anyone has an understanding of the Home Energy Scotland Loan scheme and RHI payments before giving them a call tomorrow. First, anybody with experience of HES loans and RHI? Moving into a property without CH or a gas supply, some windows secondary glazed, needs insulation etc EPC guide is G1. I've used the RHI calculated that works out as £1300 per year, £9100 over 7years. Now let's keep things simplified and only be interested in an ASHP install for this example. HES says the maximum loan amount for ASHP is £10,000 (£2,500 loan plus £7,500 cashback) Where there are clauses for cash back, but let's pretend in this instance cashback is received at the full amount. A loan of £10,000 can be taken above 12years. Is this amount the original loan value? Am I correct in saying after cash back would the loan amount to £2,500? So this would become £2,500 over 12years? On a different webpage I've also found this information: If you install a renewable heating system and apply for Renewable Heat Incentive (RHI) payments you will need to declare any cashback funding. This will be deducted from any eventual RHI payments. So would this make the RHI payments actually £1,600 over 7years? I think now I've typed this out it's all made it simplified and easy to answer my own questions.
  8. Not sure if it's been said but I would push back the stairs. They look incredibley close to the front door, as in you have to open the doors fully to get around the bottom tread. You have a large spacious entrance hall that your immediately making feel cramp in a pinch point.
  9. Really don't want two sets of lights, will need to install even more to achieve that, and I think would look pretty poor, like half/third of the lights are broken. I think it will be a custom build job. There's a while to go till move in so plenty of time to keep researching.
  10. Been deep into Google and looking for a way out... Looking for a stand alone hi lo sensor. By this I mean something that will sense night fall, turn on at eg 20% then when it senses movement turns to 100%. I know all in one lights exist, we have one. Found manuals from a company that no longer exist, websites that mention they sell them but can't find the listing and some-one on an other forum looking to build his own... Our new house has a long 30m+ front garden including stairs, so will including multiple lights. My plan is to have it running dimmed dusk to dawn, and a PIR at each end so when the front door opens or someone comes off the street they'll come to full brightness with sufficient time to get to the end. Any suggestions?
  11. In Edinburgh you need PP to convert a residence to a short term rental, it is a business use after all. There was a recent study (I've been harping on ages why the inept council couldn't assign an admin junior to trawl the web to do so) the uncovered that only 1 out of 500 properties listed on Airbnb had planning to do so. I think they've now started going after the worse offenders. Edit with further info: "The council’s position is that commercial short-term letting is a material change of use requiring planning permission. If these results were replicated across Scotland, that would suggest 99.7% of short-term lets in Scotland could be unlawful" https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2020/mar/15/many-short-term-lets-in-edinburgh-lack-planning-consent https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.edinburghnews.scotsman.com/news/people/bombshell-report-reveals-only-1-500-airbnb-properties-edinburgh-have-planning-permission-2909921%3famp
  12. Is this to "standard?" Planning on my own garden install and I thought power had to be burried to a depth, gravel, marked etc. Or is that only for running mains to out buildings?
  13. What do Welsh building regs say about the way doors open at top of stairs?...
  14. @zoothorn cheers for coming back and correcting me. Looking at your pictures posted I thought there was a door entrance next to the old cottage with a timber stud wall going in to block it off, creating that hallway space. It sounds like you have a bunch of stuff to check first, to rule out possible issues. Checking insulation/adding more and trying to figure out why the radiator isn't getting as hot would be the top of my priority. Have you went back to basics and checked the thermostatic valve is correctly working on the big rad upstairs? Is the pipe going to the radiator feeling the same as the pipe in the room below?
  15. I've looked through your posted topics and from an "in progress" thread it looks like you extension downstairs has a small hallway separating the new downstairs room and the wall of the old house. While the upstairs room abuts directly to the old stone wall of the cottage. Is this correct? If so, and those that may understand these principles better than me, could the cold 4ft thick cottage wall be acting as a giant heatsink, or even a "coldsink"? It's a big old thick bit of stone that is taking a lot of energy to heat up while constantly being re-cooled from the outside and coldness moves along its mass from outside to inside. This is then acting as a giant cold radiator in your room. You're not getting this downstairs as you have that small hallway separating the new room and the old stone wall, here you have 4 newly highly insulated walls there and only 3 upstairs. My house, a 1950s semi with cavity wall insulation, I can feel a very small change of temperature from the corner of an internal and external wall to the middle of the internal wall, it's colder towards the exterior wall. Infact my kitchen, which is like your extension has three external walls, the shared internal wall is colder to the touch than an internal wall say in the lounge. If my theory is correct, and happy to be corrected, I would be looking at what the insulation is against the old cottage wall and if this is sufficient. Even if a damp barrier was installed, and even though it may not show physical signs of damp, stones are great for drawing it out the atmosphere and passing it along to each other (and dampness I found always make the air feel colder.). An internal cavity up here may even be the way forward, or you may just need time to allow what was a cold external wall (thats had hundreds of years to get that cold) to heat up to become a warmish internal wall.