trialuser

Just to bring this up again. I have looked througth the above regs and I cant see anywhere that it says that access panels or loft hatches are compulsory. Happy to accept that I've missed it ,so if someone could point me to the actual reg I'd be grateful. I can find stuff about the requirements if you do have one. I'd rather not, it's a trussed roof with virtually no room to move about and I have been fairly thorough in wrapping the house with tyvek airguard membrane to minimise ventillation losses. There is no requirement fo access for maintenance, only some 90mm MVHR ducting which is under 400mm of insulation. If I ever feel the need to poke my head up there I'll cut a hole and patch it again. Are they compulsory, and under which reg in Scotland? Thanks

Thanks

A question for anyone but hopefully @Gus Potter will chip in as I'm in Scotland. Does all this malarkey also apply to non glass balustrades and fabricated steel stairs. I'm building a large extension in Dumfries and Galloway and was going to self fabricate a heavy box section steel stairs with wooden treads. or if I had any doubts about my welding I would get a local steel fabricator to build them. I wasnt going to get to involved with structural calcs, just over engineer. Something along these lines (pic pinched from internet) Thanks

Bradfabs Ltd? 🙂

probably why they changed the name from 'safe' to 'prescribed' :-)

I'm wondering about this as well, but using tyvek supro. As I read it, the BBA cert says you dont need eaves and ridge ventillation, as does one of the FAQ's. But, experienced people like Nod, often seem to say the opposite? Still unsure

Whats happened to youtube, I had to watch a 20 second ad to watch a 13 second video! Crazy!!

The installation instructions specifically say to turn on the power at least 12 hrs before starting it up. I turned on for 24 hrs and it used about 300W in 24hrs. I can't remember where I read it but it is to pre heat the compressor as in cold weather the oil can get mixed in with the refridgerant (I think!) and it seperates again when warmed slightly. I dont think it's an issue when it is operating full time

I think this is what was in the proper old nitromors, if you have a can of that knocking about.

I bought 20L on ebay for 94 quid a couple of weeks ago, just seen the same seller is now 120! There is some for 95 at the moment though.

That's great, thanks nod.

What about when using resilient bars. The short ends of the plasterboard fall on the bars but all the pictures I've seen show the long sides of the plasterboard just butted together, is this ok?

That's beyond my understanding. I wasn't aware of any convection flow. My understanding is that cold mains water enters the first cllinder at the bottom and displaces hot water at the top of the second cylinder? I don't have the room to physically mount one cylinder above the other. Thanks again.

Thanks All, although I'm not sure I understand Nick, but I seem to spend half my life begging 😁 My reason for doing this is I have a highly insulated extension with ufh which is bigger than the original cottage, the ashp hasn't got a hope of heating the old stone cottage, and the ecodan cylinder was essentially a freebie with the pump. It would be a hassle not to use it as it has the ftc5 and the valves, thermistors and circulatorfor the ufh bolted on the side of it, by the time that was stripped off the cylinder would be worthless. My hope is that pre heating the water by ashp would lower the dhw cost slighty and give a bit of a buffer and backup.

Pretty please, anyone, @Nickfromwales