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trialuser

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  1. The installation instructions specifically say to turn on the power at least 12 hrs before starting it up. I turned on for 24 hrs and it used about 300W in 24hrs. I can't remember where I read it but it is to pre heat the compressor as in cold weather the oil can get mixed in with the refridgerant (I think!) and it seperates again when warmed slightly. I dont think it's an issue when it is operating full time
  2. I think this is what was in the proper old nitromors, if you have a can of that knocking about.
  3. I bought 20L on ebay for 94 quid a couple of weeks ago, just seen the same seller is now 120! There is some for 95 at the moment though.
  4. What about when using resilient bars. The short ends of the plasterboard fall on the bars but all the pictures I've seen show the long sides of the plasterboard just butted together, is this ok?
  5. That's beyond my understanding. I wasn't aware of any convection flow. My understanding is that cold mains water enters the first cllinder at the bottom and displaces hot water at the top of the second cylinder? I don't have the room to physically mount one cylinder above the other. Thanks again.
  6. Thanks All, although I'm not sure I understand Nick, but I seem to spend half my life begging 😁 My reason for doing this is I have a highly insulated extension with ufh which is bigger than the original cottage, the ashp hasn't got a hope of heating the old stone cottage, and the ecodan cylinder was essentially a freebie with the pump. It would be a hassle not to use it as it has the ftc5 and the valves, thermistors and circulatorfor the ufh bolted on the side of it, by the time that was stripped off the cylinder would be worthless. My hope is that pre heating the water by ashp would lower the dhw cost slighty and give a bit of a buffer and backup.
  7. Pretty please, anyone, @Nickfromwales
  8. I have a setup whereby a new extension will be heated by ASHP / UFH, approx 100sqM footprint. The existing house is heated by a new condensing oil boiler and radiators (old stone cottage, no insulation to speak of (yet) The extension will be effectivelt sealed from the old part. Hot water to both parts is from the oil boiler and a 300L cylinder. The ASHP was an secondhand ebay buy (3 months use) and came with a preplumbed 250L cylinder. (Ecodan 8.5) I am proposing to link the DHW cylinders in series and heat the first cylinder to 40C (ecodan min hot water temp) to hopefully get a decentish COP, and feed the outlet into the inlet of the second cylinder and heat it from 40 to 60 ish with the oil boiler. All pressure reducing valves, temp and presure relief valves and expansion vessels will be fitted. Is this OK?
  9. The ct clamp only needs to go over the live tail or similar, according to the TLC website the difference in diameter between 25mm and 35mm double insulated tails is 1mm (11mm v 12mm)
  10. Google just found this photo of what I'm hoping to diy https://www.facebook.com/prizesprayingltd/photos/pcb.3692954434167072/3692943657501483
  11. I am talking about the area between the plasterboard ceiling of the ground floor and the egger chipboard floor of the first floor in a timber frame build, so not normally rendered. It's a strip around the perimeter of the building within the depth of the posijoists. I could stuff in rockwool but I dont think that will deal with the airtightness. Taping would be a nightmare, posi's are on 400 centres and are from memory about 122 wide, so about 60+ small 300mm x 280mm voids and the ends of the posi's ideally want a bit of insulation as well Thanks
  12. Similarly, but different... Because of a cock up installing my tony tray (Flapped in the gales, ripped to shreds and now cut off), I need to find a way to insulate and make airtight the first floor zone between the ground and first floors. The joists are 305mm posijoists. It will be tricky to cut foam and fit insulation between and across the ends of ths pozi's, so I was thinking about spray foaming just the joist zone around the perimeter. Does anyone have any ideas on whether this would work? Thanks
  13. Texecom power supply failures have been a problem for a few years now, I think they are made by elmdene. If you want to know more sign up on the texecom forum and you can spend hours reading about the hundreds of people who have wasted thousands of hours trying to fault find dodgy power supplies. The forum is quite active and very useful for obscure programming tweaks. You can easily blag it onto the pro installer sub forum.
  14. Before you go bunging in a 32mm pipe just because you can and it's only a few quid more, check it won't turn round to bite you later. Here in Scotland I am billed by business stream (farm with field troughs), and the standing charge per year for 32mm over 25mm is several hundreds of quid more. Perhaps just check that's not the case where you are. edit, just checked, £1233 v £436! I suppose you could add a foot of 25mm to the connection end
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