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Could you replace the freezer with another fridge (perhaps with freezer box) and have a freezer elsewhere? We have a fridge freezer in our kitchen which we would struggle with on its own but a chest freezer in the garage for bigger things, infrequently used things or bulk.

Nu, heat are talking out of their backsides, the heat loss will be huge, get it all broke out, new dpm and new insulation the amount of effort you have gone to already don’t skimp on getting the rest done right.

A few months back I promised (to @SteamyTea I think) to share further details about a side-project involving monitoring and controlling our MVHR unit with a Raspberry Pi. I was hoping to mature it to beyond beta stage before presenting it but, frankly, it'll probably always be in some unfinished state of development as between my extension and nearly-3yr old daughter I don't find much time for 'playing around' (as my wife calls this sort of thing). So, I thought I'd just share what I've got now in case it's of interest of use to others. As background, our MVHR unit is a Titon HRV 1.25Q HMB Plus Eco which I believe is towards the lower end of the range but I got it cheap (£350) on eBay (an interesting story involving a development of 50-odd houses all fitted with the wrong model MVHR!). As a seemingly basic model it comes with potentiometer-controlled fans speeds and boost timer, absolute humidity detection for boost, automatic summer bypass and provision for switched boost inputs. It uses a Recair heat exchanger which, being their party, could well be common with a lot of other manufacturer's units. There's no fancy screen or controls, although Titon do make such a device but I'm not sure it works with our model. Furthermore, it's something like £150 and my Northern genes made me think I could do better with a Raspberry Pi for a lot less than that! I'd like to show a detailed schematic showing all the component parts but as I don't have one I'll just list them: - Raspberry Pi Zero W (a cut-down, low power, version of the Pi with WiFi) running Raspbian as the OS with lighttpd (web server), rrdtool (stats gathering and graph creation), a couple of 3rd party tools installed for reading the sensors and a couple of scripts (attached) pulling it all together - Shelly 1 smart relay connected to the MVHR boost input (the Pi could handle this but the Shelly has been in for a while, hardwired to boost switches in the kitchen and outside the bathrooms, and has been left in for now as it works without issue) (Incidentally, the MVHR unit itself is powered through a Shelly 1PM smart relay which is connected to my smoke alarms such that if there's a fire the MVHR is switched off and I am sent an SMS to alert me of the fact, but all that is separate to this Pi stuff described here) - Four DS18B20 1-wire temperature sensors taped inside the MVHR ports to measure supply, extract, intake and exhaust. A fifth is dangling in the loft space as, being outside the thermal envelope, I've always been curious what the temperatures are actually like up there - One AM2302 humidity sensor (unfortunately not 1-wire and so requires different software to read and its own connection to the Pi's I/O port) As things currently stand, the attached script (capturetemps.sh) reads all the sensors every 5 minutes (trigger by cron) and records their values, and various calculated ones too, to an RRD round-robin database using rrdtool. I've always been a fan of graphs - not entirely sure why - and so via creategraphs.sh (and rrdtool again) it also produces some charts for whatever time periods are required, examples of which are shown below. Speaking of time periods, it currently stores - and produces graphs from - readings at 5 minute intervals for 3 months, 30 minute averages for 6 months and hourly averages for 5 years in a 12MB database. First off, system temperatures are recorded for all the ports which has been very reassuring in terms of the actually knowing this MVHR malarky actually does what it purports to do in terms of providing a supply of air at a temperature near to that being extracted (sometimes higher!) despite what's going on outside: These temperature readings are also used to calculate the efficiency of the heat exchanger which again appear to show it broadly working as advertised: The two calculation methods are as described by Paul Heat Recovery, the second of which (Method B) aims to factor in heat losses (or indeed gain) through the unit itself and hence be more accurate. I also measure and graph instantaneous power consumption (figures obtained from the Shelly 1PM 'smoke alarm' relay I mentioned that the MVHR is powered through): The system isn't yet fully installed (10 vents out of 12 done), balanced or properly configured and so the trickle (~8W) and boost (~42W) figures shouldn't be taken as necessarily relevant although that said we've been pleased with the performance at the current settings and so wouldn't be surprised if they don't change too much. This graph (not this actual one as it hasn't happened for a few days) also reveals when the summer bypass kicks in as it jumps the line up by ~5W. There's also the loft temperature graph which doesn't serve much purpose other than curiosity, and use up the fifth-of-a-pack-of-five sensors I bought: Speaking of curiosity, the novelty of looking at graphs will wear off one day I'm sure but one important reading I am logging is the humidity in the extract duct: This one has been particularly interesting, and indeed useful, given that the large 'spikes' correspond with taking showers and so are easy for the script to detect (it currently looks for a >5% rise in any five minute period) and request a 30-min boost via the Shelly smart relay. It hasn't missed a shower yet, and I am confident it'll work well for cooking as previous experiments show it being quite easy to pick up simmering pans. The script also looks out for an absolute value also being breached but it's only been running for a few weeks and so I really need to see a full four seasons, particularly when windows are closed in winter with washing drying indoors, to determine what sort of value would be suitable for that. Given the freedom and flexibility of the script it could even self-adjust over the year if need be? That's pretty much it! It's been good fun, a worthwhile learning curve and I think it'll have some utility too. My next step is for the Pi to take control of the summer bypass as the thresholds for operation cannot be adjusted on my unit - confirmed by Titon as being active when the extract temperature (dirty room air) is >22°C and intake (fresh outside air) >15°C, but not if the intake air temperature is greater than the extract as the heat exchanger serves to cool the incoming air slightly in such a situation. I think I'd like it to kick in sooner as 22°C is a bit warm for my liking on still summer nights where even the thought of 'cool' air being pumped in could have psychological benefits even if it won't actually cool the house down much given the volumes involved. Longer term I might even use the Pi to control the fan speeds too (reading the datasheets for them show they accept a 0-10v speed control input) but that might be overkill as I'm sure in time I'll be more than happy with just having fixed speed trickle and boost modes. If I can expand on anything I'd be more than happy to do so. And if there's any 'real programmers in the house please forgive my scripts as whilst I'm aware there's something called 'programming style' I'm not following anything other than what works for me as an untrained tinkerer! capturetemps.sh.txt creategraphs.sh.txt

It’s coming up to a couple of months since I last posted. With the upstairs now a contractor-free zone, we soon had many Ikea flat pack kits to construct for the kids bedrooms. Our joiner fitted the utility worktop and units in February and we have since been applying oil to both this and the kitchen worktops. The last bit we needed done to be able to get the house habitable was for the plumber to do second fix. This work had been scheduled for the end of March. The majority of the bathroom and en-suite was delivered a couple of weeks or so before the lockdown started but all of this has now been put on hold. The joiner was able to do a day installing the bathroom furniture. That is now the extent of the inside of work and it’s now a case of waiting till the restrictions are lifted. Given that we cannot order any materials or have contractors working, I decided to move my attention to outside tasks and do what I can with a shovel, barrow and metal bar. The first job was to clear away all of these scrap materials up the access road to the shed. I don’t have a van or dumper so did this with a wheel barrow over a few Saturdays. This took longer than I expected, just moving a pallet and half of dense concrete blocks burned a lot of calories! Some of the good sized left over broken slates will be useful for other projects but the rest and some smaller broken blocks were used as hard core to build up the path at the gable end. I plan to order a lorry load of chips which will be spread around the perimeter house. The next job involved pulling out loads of rushes using an iron bar and log to lift them out of the ground. I plan to add some additional drainage around the garden so have also started work on a French drain. Building control have given the okay to a timber ramp. I have bit more height to make up than your typically self build because of the suspended timber floor and to meet the regulations regarding the flight length this will need to be extended around the front inspection chamber. I plan to clad this ramp in Siberian larch with non slip decking. The next exciting job is going through the ground here to pick up hundreds of stones in preparation for grass seed. It’s not been the most interesting entry and I am hopeful the next one will be a ‘we are now in’ entry. In the meantime, to ensure progress, I’m going to pull together a list of jobs that I can do and others that I can plan for when the lock down ends. Stay safe and healthy.

Your absolutely fine tiling onto tile as long as they are solid You are better using a bagged adhesive for Porcelain You will need to leave it a couple of days before grouting

Does anybody do back blocking over here plasterboard offcuts stuck to the back of the boards in between the joists. Overlapping the joints i did my place in oz like this and it was very flat and true without skimming just jointed.

Hi, Had an old Westwood ride on myself a few years ago, the deck was on adjustable bars at the front like the one you have, and had a steel wires across the top of the deck at the back, over time the wires stretched with the weight of the deck, and I changed the bolt position on the front two bars to raise it a little.

Sounds great. That's what I want, the three Ns, no near neighbours.

If you use duplex 15 mil boards The edges don’t need to be supported Even at 600 centres

Come up to near the surface with your 90mm pumped pipe and connect to 110mm brown pipe with a bandseal connector and connect this to an inspection chamber at about 600mm invert. From the chamber, go down at 45 degrees, then another to connect to the neighbour.

No need for a back drop any more, the need for these disappeared a few years ago now, when there was a realisation that foul drain pipes work fine at pretty much any adequate fall. Just run the pipe down so the fall is even from one end to the other and it should be fine.

It doesn't take much to cause a fear that lasts a lifetime. One of my very earliest memories is of being out in the garden in a pram, that had a net over the top (used to be common practice years ago). A dog jumped up at the pram, and my mother over-reacted. My memory is mainly of her reaction, but I've always been really nervous around dogs, and I suspect that early encounter may be to blame.

Now although I don't like wasps, up until I was stung about 10 years ago they didn't really bother me and I won't go crazy seeing one (obviously a potential nest of them is a whole other issue). Cockroaches however, major fear triggered by my first holiday abroad to Fuerteventura when I was 20. I've travelled over 70 countries since and been lucky to only see one dead one. For anyone wanting to avoid bugs in home and abroad I always take a peppermint and citroenella essential oil mix and spray around any rooms or places we stay. Bugs and critters hate the smell (ok not keen myself but it does the trick).

I built five sets Some in pairs and some triple I purchased the sliding door feet from Slingers at Preston Between £40 and £75 per set Great quality

Similar here, a few layers of barbed livestock and a Loch at the front make some additional handy security features. I wanted a long access as Skye can be busy in the tourist season. We close the gates and we don't see anybody.

Papered edges stronger than cut edges that's why perpendicular. I always normally nog if 12.5mm boards so every edge has solid backing. Last job I used 600mm centres with 15mm plasterboard and no noggins. Unsupported long edges. Was ok but think I still prefer 12.5mm on nogs

You always have long edges unsupported but they are skimmed over...? Then you start the next board (1200mm edge) on a joist..?? Then it’s brick pattern to stagger the joints.

If you need Heras to be dismantled / moved frequently for access etc pay a bit more and get the round topped as the welded top ones just crap themselves.

Break out the concrete. Should not be a huge job. If it is just the area at the back it should only take a day or 2 including disposal. You have spent enough on this that it is not worth cutting corners.

I too did a multipanel overlay over tiles in a previous property. There are cheaper alternatives to multipanel if logevity is not your aim.

Could you sheet off the area with clear plastic, both sides and floor seal off entirely. then cut a slit for access with a garden hoe or similar , then dislodge it and see if anything comes out, leave it for a few days then wrap up and remove from roof. I'd do all this with as much skin covered as possible.

Because the temperature difference it is required to achieve is much the greater.

Yes you need a very minimum of 100mm of GOOD insulation so it all has to come out. Unless you want a step up as you enter the kitchen?

I think the single storey at the front of the house is unnecessary. Visually it makes the elevation look a bit cluttered. The cost of the steels etc will be expensive. If the office and garage are too small without then make the bedrooms above larger too. Similarly the porch overhang could be removed in favour of a structural storm porch, allowing bedroom 4 to be larger, such as shown in this picture. It would be more expensive, but also more impressive.

The project team have a company sterilising printed bands. Thats the reason they say you should not send them to hospitals yourself. My guess is they either irradiate them or soak in bleach.

The team behind that project have been working to get a design approved by the NHS. The stl files are on their site and were updated to version 7 today. The ones I've been printing were the previous version which I think are only accepted by care homes. They have been designed to be stackable eg you can print a stack of 4,8,16 etc in one go then split them. They have to be printed in PLA or PETG. Other materials might be acceptable but they haven't been tested yet. You just print bands. They have people making the clear part and doing assembly. The clear part is just a ring binder cover with 4 punched holes.

Can't say on the insurance. But similar length for our access and before I started locking the house. I would park the car at the front of the gates if we had materials on site and that provided sufficient security to me.

Depends on your site insurance. Ours required the site to be physically secured, with signage etc to try to keep people out. The main issue is probably that you (or your insurer) carries the can in terms of responsibility in the event that someone breaks into the site and injures themselves. Sounds daft, but it seems that this is the way liability works. I remember being amazed at being told that I had to remove the lower ten feet or so of a fixed access ladder up a 100ft antenna mast. I argued that the mast was inside a fenced compound, but the assessor was adamant that we had to fit a removable ladder section, in case someone climbed over the fence, climbed the tower and suffered an injury. Barking mad in my view, but then so is a fair bit of the liability stuff we now have to manage.

Its wasps, in our climate wasp nests are not multigenerational. They die out each autumn, there have been a small number of cases where nests were kept warm by displaced insulation and these were multigenerational but they a trivial in number. At this time of year a wasp nest is golf-ball sized with only an adult queen and larvae at most. Last years nest is full of disease because of disorganisation in the colony in autumn and new queens instinctively avoid them. Builders might adopt an 'ain't my problem' attitude as they will not understand/know its empty. You can just cut it down with a saw, it only paper mache, or if your nervous about it leave it to January when it will very definitely be safe. Adult wasps get at least some of their energy requirements from an excretion produced by their larvae, when the larvae die out in late summer/autumn the adults intensify their efforts to obtain sugars from fruit trees etc https://www.nhm.ac.uk/discover/what-do-wasps-do.html

I did exactly this in Australia and intend doing the same again, there is a company called buteline from New Zealand who I think do all the bits as you need to supply a brass threaded wall plate to project through the wall for the isolator to screw to. Let me know now what you find as I’m keen to do the same as I cannot fathom the ad hock way it’s done over here.

Popular in Italy and their brassware manufacturers make loads of them. Isolator Valve

I've used hydraulic lime bags that are well out of date and they have been fine. Never had much success with out of date bags of multi finish! Goes off much too quick.

I have a Combimate and it seems OK but not scale free. We are in a moderate hard water area. They are fairly cheap and quite easy to fit. I think they help prevent Coronavirus and bubonic plague too, which is helpful.

They say the same about us Jack

As a teenager I once jumped into the path of an oncoming bus to try and get away from a wasp. Managed to jump back but it was an irrational fear. Maybe someone he knows has passed this on or he's had a fright from a wasp / bee encounter? My teens are being phobic about spiders at present. I love spiders. Have asked them not to make me choose...

Sound on and good mic for the screams and buzzing please. Rgds Damon

Order a few more samples you'll have enough for your garage!

My wife held the ladder But soon disappeared when they came out