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Hi I hope to start renovation of small “3 bedroom” Victorian terrace house. House is called by us “the tower”- four storeys including basement. Structural building is sound and looks bit over engineered. what we plan to do: moving up first floor section around 15 cm to get some headroom in basement knock down wall between two so called “bedrooms” to get one proper size insulation -IWI PIR on external walls, wool inside roof heating system –radiators connected to manifold with attenuators and central control plumbing for cold and hot water on manifolds ventilation with heat recovery some tweaks on electric wiring intercom , proper burglar alam system etc. and of course like always decent bathroom and general refurbishment Generally I can make everything myself (and calculate it before) J As you know rules of physics are same all over the world. Sorry that we can’t tell same about building regulations. I will try to place my questions in proper section of forum and share my knowledge with others huck

Try shutting off all the radiators and opening up one at a time to see if you can get water to flow to each in turn. It might just be an air lock. How is the multi fuel boiler joined to the oil boiler, usually there is a neutraliser or low loss header. Can you turn something on to get that pump running?

Er, yes.

Have your requests pointed out to them that as a vat registered entity actively collecting vat they have a legal obligation to provide properly formatted vat receipts and that you intend to inform hmrc that they are not in compliance with this.

You are now entering the 'Why does a dog lick it ****s' territory. Because it can.

Sounds like the hot water circuit might be gravity, how many pipes go to the multifuel? Or is the system "pumping over", with the pump forcing water out of the vent pipe and back into the F&E tank? Are there any other pumps, like beside the oil boiler? You might try as a first go, closing the valves on the hot radiators to force the flow to the others. Once you've flow to all than you can worry about balance...

please.

If I tried that on my tribe, I would be told in no uncertain times that "the shower is faulty" and it must be replaced.

Factory built house, all wood option, 16" thick walls..

This might not be helpful but might depending on where the drip appears. I stupidly cut a wee bit of flashing to put at a downpipe outlet and sliced through and put a score in the EPDM (yes, don't even ask, I was nearly done and rather than...you know how it is). Anyway, I knew exactly where I'd sliced (about 3cm) and boy was it hard to find it again only 5mins later when I had the patch sorted! My point is only - once you've eliminated the other suggestions above, if it's simply a puncture no-one 'fessed up to, it can be hard to find - but easy to fix. You may need to identify a broad section and on hands and knees, work it methodically to try find it. Our EPDM has insulation directly below and then a VCL below that - which means if we ever did have a leak it wouldn't come through - not sure if you're is the same - I don't recall the build up? Point being - wherever the water is entering water could be redirected for the whole length of the pitch assuming a slight fall)? Good luck!

If you want hot water when you get in, to be able to save water (time limited) and have different temperatures for the tribe, then a digital (smart) shower is what you need. YMMV

I prefer “KISS”. Less to go wrong and simpler/cheaper to repair.

yep done that - Mira ones come with a 10m control cable. Only downside is the cold “leg” from the unit to the outlet but you could say that’s no worse than the dead leg from the tank to the shower mixer in a normal shower.

think you got idea about this job -- I need to get money back ,where ever I can to to build it hence when its all finalised i will putting parts of the site,which all have very good potenial up for sale probably after I have got outline planning for them - notgoing to be a quick job-so have plenty of time to do things cheapest and best way to get the desired result

About the size of a big shoe box for mains pressure, a bit bigger, or even two units if it’s gravity with the pump module. You can run the pipe as far as is practical, but you’ll have to extend the signal cable that goes between the remote control ( in the bathroom ) to the unit.

Fitted 3 to my barn conversion. Aqualisa Quartz, supposed to be the best, very expensive. Over 10 years all 3 failed (one unit twice). The control boxes have no real serviceable parts so you have to buy a swap out unit which is easy to do but more £££’s. In the current place just went for Hansgrohe units with the first fix back boxes. Simple to fit and a lot cheaper. Works the same!

Ok. A digital mixer shower is a box that goes under the bath or in the attic / airing cupboard ( or ‘hot press’ if you’re a big lover of potato’s ) and takes a hot and cold feed ( can be mains pressurised with solenoids or gravity fed with pumps, all integral of said box ) and mixes both feeds into one “digitally-controlled” output. That single pipe output emerges in the bathroom as the riser rail / shower head feed. Simples. Do not confuse these with ‘mixer / power showers’ as they’re chalk and cheese.

Probably worth having a look at all the other ICF systems around, too, as there are quite a few, and each has its own pros and cons.

Yep fitted a couple. Mira ones are nice - they are easy to fit and well made. They are good as you only need to run single pipes to outlets - I’ve done one with a bath filler and that’s good as you basically push the button and it fills the bath to correct level and temperature then switches off. They are also a fair bit more accurate on the temperature blending than a wax cap, but if you do get a problem then they do get a bit expensive.

Can you tell me what swung your decision to Isotex, and what other products you looked at. Cheers russ.

Depends if you want to be able to claim on your SE's indemnity insurance later because if you go against their instructions and something goes wrong you're in a tricky position. Have you approached the SE with the BCO's view to see what his thoughts are?

no idea ,i,m not a stone mason ,and i wll have neough to do --will looking to move them on as they come off the cropper and just to make it more interesting there is at least another house and lots of other ruins that will give up cut stone . the project is so big i get the feeling that i may be buried there before i get finished .LOL Iwill post up complete project area, 70 acres, in the future which includes at least 3 other lifestyle or biz oppertunites ,which i wil need to move on to fund this build views from all are to die as they are all elevated, across the estuary - from this house i can see across isle of man and to Ireland no problem.

We have them in my current place (albeit 10-years old models). Audible noise from the motor; prone to dumping cold water on your head after the shower is paused and restarted; all-in-all pointless. But they do have a flashing LED. Of the three we have, one has needed servicing.

And is more EXPENSIVE parts to go wrong.

cos all being well -I will need to split cut granite blocks to re use them as an outer wall on new house --but no rush --just looking for things see no point in using 9"+ thick ones for cladding --but 4" will be fine and managable wright for me to work with and other halfs i can sell-- about 900sqm in the old building so for someone wanting to extend exsisting granite house or wants make a real statement ther must be a market for them

https://magpi.raspberrypi.org/articles/back-up-raspberry-pi

After getting some good advise on the forum (DON T DO IT!!! LEAVE IT TO THE PROS!!!) I decide to ignore that and buy some 2nd hand equipment on ebay. How hard can it be http://tintabernacle.blogspot.com/2019/10/setting-out.html?m=1 It wasn't. Just time consuming. At the end it always is a question of wether it is cheaper doing it yourself or if it actually would have saved £££ getting a pro in. My case for doing it myself (as much as possible) is the massive knowledge gain. Even if it turns out to be the same price than having someone doing it for you (which most of the time isn't the case), I wouldn't want to miss what I learned so far.

Yep. Time is the main difference. The commercial for Digital Total Station tells that the average traditional 2guys team does approx. 400points/day and with the digital tools you can now double the point to 800points/day(marking) with only 1 guy. I was doing traditional autolevel points on my own and approx. 30points/day. Completely unacceptable for pro-contractor. But I have 0 cash for contractors and a fair bit of spare time to build the house.

I’ve a wired system to the new build Which is linked to my phone via Texecom The App is really user friendly and a great bit of kit

I've drilled it out to 10.2mm (M12 tapping drill). It's a tad off centric but spins nice on a 10mm drill as the video clip shows: Video: Will try and get in the post Monday.

Mr Cheap Seats here. Graft this to a similarly cheap, battery powered, wireless doorbell. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Indicator-Detector-Pressure-Resistant/dp/B07Q61M64H/ref=asc_df_B07Q61M64H/?

Yes @Triassic you should skim.......tape is for low end spec builds. We did tape joints not skim in the garage and thats ok for there but I would never have it in the house. You will spend many years looking at those walls, you dont want daily reminders of a bad decision. Save the pennies elsewhere and get a good plasterer in.

I also disagree, taped and filled PB is office style on a good day. You try sanding back on a PB wall and you hit paper. You knock a PB wall and you hit paper. You BREATHE next to a PB wall and..... With skim you get a layer which is infinitely harder wearing, can be filled and sanding without instantly lifting fibres, and can absorb all the undulations that boarding, taping and filling simply cannot ever do. Ive been around both long enough to give an informative perspective. Plaster if you want a home, tape if it's an office. When the sun hits a taped wall you can even spot where the studs are.

Roger Scruton (misquoted): in Britain everything is permitted unless it is forbidden; in Switzerland everything is forbidden unless it is permitted; in France everything is permitted, even if it is forbidden; and in Russia everything is forbidden, even if it is permitted.

Dog saliva is antibacterial: for a dog's withers, nothing cleans better than a good lick. Having once been nearly killed by feline oral flora, I'm pretty loath to be licked by anything on four legs.

What he meant to call them was “ibox”’s. Pretty nifty bits of kit and more robust than BoJo’s plans for a swift exit.

They say that in Switzerland "if it is not illegal, it is compulsory." In the 70s I was refused entry to Switzerland because my motorbike, a Yamaha YDS3, was too noisy. Odd how the Italians thought it was normal.

Just get a few of these... https://www.rapidonline.com/Piggyaxe-555-Flasher-Kit-70-1051?IncVat=1&pdg=pla-294357559827:kwd-294357559827:cmp-757438067:adg-44804851896:crv-207912323492:pid-70-1051:dev-c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-ZL699yq5QIVyrTtCh1DngMLEAQYASABEgI5nvD_BwE

Basically what @joe90 did. His garage is larger than my house though. So when it comes time to build one, I shall take his old car out and build my dream house in the dry.

whats the roof make-up? what stage of construction is it at where the leak is manifesting...ie are you seeing a wet underside of roof deck or are you seeing wet ceiling plaster?? Where water is coming-out is one thing, where its going in is another....as I'm sure you appreciate. Apparently the accuracy is not really so good as to provide any truly comprehensive reassurance but it will serve to pick up some installation errors. On tuesday my sarnafil installers will attempt to identify the source of my second leak and i'm bracing myself for the need to possibly remove half of the green roof growing medium (approx 6 tons) and put it 'somewhere'!

Bragging rights? ? You'll need the £600 flush plate to go with it.