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mvincentd last won the day on December 10 2019

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About mvincentd

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  1. I have 6 of these v2's 240v spread between 2 heatmiser wiring centres. They're set at the default 1 degree drop to trigger so right now i'm setting 23 degrees (uncalibrated). The only measurement of temperature aside from the v2's I have is from the mvhr....they generally only disagree by around 0.5 degree and like @AliG i'm not concerned with the figure itself just my warmth perception relative to it. I don't get the issues discussed here but agree the bloody things aren't fit for purpose; The V2 auto backlight comes on of its own accord randomly in the middle of the night. I've caught 4 out of 6 doing it so far. The light then stays on for an inconsistent period that doesn't accord with the auto-backlight function. There is no viable trigger in the house for this, i've consulted with Heatmiser technical, head scratched it with the sparky, and now removed the two which keep waking me up in the night. Heatmiser aren't very interested and being only 6 i've decided to get on with my life rather than have a fight. So i've been searching for V1's which only differ by the lack of auto backlight and the backlight's colour. They can snap onto the same backplate so a fuss free transition.......if I can find some....not yet! I will however be going to war with Heatmiser if I have to fit different backplates and stats from a different brand to the wiring centres. My other issue is that with a power cut they fail to retain programmed settings and time, which they should do.
  2. All very interesting, particularly this bit. Not to hijack the main purpose of @sean1933's thread i'm interested in this because you're right about my load diffential between inner and outer leafs there. Outer is the pretty negligible 1 block height, whereas inner carries the roof and all that entails. So my Pozi's were specced and supplied by Crendon working off drawings from my SE which identified that Catnic lintel. I raised a slight concern over it with my SE....he responded; "....capacity of the catnic lintels is actually within the required loadings, so theoretically the lintels should be fine. That said, if they do feel flimsy as per your description on the phone then perhaps we should take note and include say a 100x100x5 angle as a protective measure, almost as a bit of insurance...With lintels we do not often get feedback from site, they are usually just constructed by the relevant contractor and that is it, but since you raised this concern it makes sense in our eyes, to eradicate any doubts, especially if you have sourced some additional steelwork already, to include an additional angle where the joists span onto the lintels." No mention/discussion of 'load ratio' and no references to it in Catnic product details/specs, so I wonder if contractors ever give it consideration....or ever need to, perhaps the standard tolerances of standard lintels is wide enough that it would be a bespoke steel rather than a standard lintel being specced when load ratio is a factor? Overall i'm unsure if my SE was just humouring my paranoia, or was overly casual in his original spec', or genuinely acknowledging in-practice observations deserve a weight of consideration against 'the maths'. In summary i'd agree @Gus Potter not to change SE details without checking with them....but do check, don't dismiss bricky opinions or your own instincts, and don't entirely be slavish to the presented maths. I'd also absolutely go through all pozijoist specs carefully as I suspect the estimators at those organisations likely churn out quotes avoiding direct dialogue with SE's on fine detail....put your pozi quote in front of your SE. (just for the eagle eyed....yes the steel isn't fabricator had some 80x40x5 and the SE approved that!)
  3. Maybe...add a small box section steel above the lintel similar to the blue one shown in pic below....hang off that. Might need bespoke hangers, or fab' hangers into the box section even! That one pictured is a 1.8m wide window below, green roof above, and the pozi's over the window also support a 240kg skylight....the SE didn't spec the box section, it was at my insistance. G20789AC Posi Flat Roof (Higher Roof) Layout 31_01_2018.pdf
  4. Why not scrap the manifold and just drop the T (with two 40mm branches in the sides) straight in....worked for me.
  5. I have as sketched below in various positions on my build....the Marmox block continues the insulation.
  6. With 300mm of concrete in the basement i'm wondering why you need to build a blockwork inner leaf at all..just plasterboard the internal face of the concrete, put the insulation outside...start the upper cavity wall outer leaf on a marmox block to enable the insulation to achieve continuation across to the cavity. Sit your floor on the concrete.
  7. honest answer...i don't think you should place enough value on my opinion on this for it to be worth me saying, sorry.
  8. Well it's tangibly quieter at 35% and i've every confidence the house and air quality would be fine if that's what it ran at....i've not changed anything since it was commissioned to regs'. Be careful how much you conclude from my house is not typical, it's basically a concrete bunker, no carpets, and this likely effects sound transmission. Also it's a branch system of 160mm diameter ducting (reduces to 125mm after 20metres) rather than the seemingly more typical radial systems. The house shape also forces a lot of turns so for example the pic here is showing a forced deviation from what would be a straight run in an oblong house. None of this lends itself to optimum system performance. What i would say is don't obsess over'll buy a noisy fridge, plug in some gadget or charger that has a gentle hum to it, or have a partner that snores, all of which will render mvhr noise concerns irrelevant.
  9. I have the Draper trim router and plunge base, which appears to have rather a lot in common with that unbranded one ( except about £20 more). Got it from local tool shop and he's now cautioning me against trying to use it in a router table as reckons it will lack the beans, especially with hardwood. I don't have prior router experience to reference against but seems to perform ok handheld, the plunge is a bit grabby.
  10. ?....if your cistern is already 'charged' won't that slug just effectively go to overflow?
  11. No, I think I took the stance of not getting drawn into all the 'marginal gains' add-ons....i'm happy enough if it does it's core function well.
  12. I'm 200sqm, the attached screenshots from the app show currently it's shifting 194cubic m by using 50% fan duty. My commissioning cert' says medium supply-54.6%, high supply-72.2% I'd assume like you re' the q450 though so if space and money is no issue.....but i don' think you NEED it.
  13. Your 1.5x2m floor has a surface area of 3sqm. This will require 1 standard bottle of wine to totally cover it at 2.5mm deep....assuming you spill it in the farthest corner from the door and get lucky with the puddle pattern. A standard general purpose bucket is typically 14 litres ..or 18.6 bottles of Rioja. So whatever method of arriving at a waterproof floor you use, the doorway will need to stem the flow to a height of 46.5mm and i guess it'll have to be a kerb because a sealed door would have to remain closed. I agree with you that @AliG's suggestion is the best...but because it'll do what you NEED and deal with a bottle. Do not misunderstand... meaning it'll do anything like what you've specified.
  14. My q350 is mounted to concrete wall in utility room, 4 metres as crow flies from where i'd sit on sofa. I've concrete floors throughout too so sounds do travel in the house. Sitting on the sofa in the dead of night with mvhr on 197m3/h 50% fan speed the DecibelX iPhone app' measures 29....i hear the mvhr but not from the unit directly but from the 3 outlets that feed the living/dining area. Turning the mvhr up or off makes an audible difference but doesn't shift the decibel reading. Nowhere in the house reads lower than 28.4 on the app'. Standing in the utility room 1 metre from the unit it reads 32.5 and nobody could fail to notice it on entry. I dont think my install is the quietest....the supply and return ducting directly out of the unit could have been done better (i did it!). The utility room isn't quiet..i wouldn't want to sleep in would be like a hotel room with an aircon unit running, which i hate. I do sleep in the living room (when i get in trouble) and am aware of the mvhr, but it doesn't bother me...the fridge will kick in soon enough with some weird noise anyway that totally overshadows the mvhr! I wouldn't let noise concerns prevent you from siting it in your utility. If you are hypersensitive to noise then you could potentially tune into air pushing out of bedroom outlets anyway (depending on how your system needs setting up).
  15. Interested in the outcome here, sorry can't offer any useful advice. Please do update results.