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About mvincentd

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    North Dorset

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  1. mvincentd

    Hello from Christchurch, Dorset

    There's another one (or maybe the same on?) just off Lulworth Avenue right on the corner of the Hamworthy Park carpark, i'm 99% sure is a durisol build, I saw blocks going up in October.
  2. mvincentd

    The Build - Mission accomplished! We're in!!

    Nice...looks sturdy!
  3. mvincentd

    Joist Hangers: too many holes?

    I dunno, but check that with supplier. Mine were all specifically marked to show 'top chord' and it wasn't optional to flip them.
  4. That's me, four times so far. ...twice just last week but thats only because i managed to resist the inclination the other 14 times.
  5. Jeez, thank ek for that, i'm having a crisis of confidence about all aspects of my build currently and that question had me in a right panic...
  6. Surely 250mm of waterproof concrete with a fully bonded 0.8mm thick waterproof membrane is going to be more airtight than parged thermalites(or indeed most materials any house is constructed with)?. All external walls are either poured concrete or they're thermalites/135mm full-fill dritherm/flintblocks.
  7. Replying quickly so not sure if i'm off the mark but this is word for word what i put to my Building inspector and he approved it; Hopefully a quick question, i’ve been phoning but never seem to catch you right. Most northerly wall is the garage and the top sits roughly 1 to 2 feet below a 6ft fence on boundary with next doors garden (no nearby structure)….and less than a metre away from it. The fascia is planned to be cedar untreated. Likewise the garage east and west walls would have cedar fascia which would at their most northerly point get within a metre of that boundary fence. My understanding is that the cedar, battening etc should be fire treated. Is this stuff sufficient to meet the requirement?; meets BS476 class 0 & 1. This stuff means I can fascia the rest of the house and not have it look different to the bits in this fire sensitive area as this spray doesn’t alter the visual appearance of the timber.
  8. mvincentd

    DIY Battery Backup

    I have a good friend with a business supplying and fitting Sofar (he's a bit more commercial than domestic orientated). I've just checked with him if he could do a special deal for build hub on a pooled order for several systems. I told him you've already identified sub£2000+vat for 4.8kw, supply only. He said by all means collate a total order requirement and he'll better that, but it will be fairly marginal as thats already a very tight price. If this is of any interest let me know.
  9. ah, thanks for that...hadn't thought about air tight but not vapour tight......i'm now wondering if parge coat falls into that category, otherwise i've precious little of my outer box thats breathable! (monolithic structure of waterproof concrete throughout floor and 2 sides whose waterproof membrane is continuously bonded to the roof membrane, then above the blockwork wall's joist plate i've xps thats about to be air taped to the roof deck and joists).
  10. mvincentd

    The POSIs Picnic: a solution is in sight.

    ...point below presumably? 1st- I'm pleased to have been able to be of some help....but please don't mistake me for someone in any way qualified to make engineering the end of the day I was just chewing the fat with you and all. Cullens said you could block the top and bottom sections but that it was not i took from that my assumption of not critical at an engineering level. However I thought surely good practice to replicate the original intended 'shape' of the joist as far as possible given those parts surely provide some enhancement to performance (for one example don't the hangers have holes for twist nails going into those areas and aren't ALL holes supposed to be nailed). I only drew in the bottom yellow block out of laziness but yes it would make sense to do this at top too, but i'd think the bottom is the most important bit to remediate, and this is why; Remember that unlike your earlier joists these were designed not to be top hung, so here the bottom chord is the primary bearing point onto the hanger and without the addition of the bottom yellow block the 'too short' bottom chord is only catching maybe half of the hanger base. I know the hanger base isn't the be all and end all because of the twist nails through the sides....but my instinct has me more comfortable utilising all the hanger base, just as @joe90's design does.
  11. Appreciated Mike, sorry the main thrust of my question was intended to be "under my current scheme are the contents of my ceiling void gonna be ok?" rather than am i going about airtighting my outer box the best way.
  12. mvincentd

    PP Conditions

    Apart from road edge to gateline, ie the visibility splay area, usually 4.5m I think....I cant imagine why they are trying to dictate tarmac all over your drive and personally i'd look to have the condition removed. In the interests of storm water management surely they shouldn't be unnecessarily promoting the use of non permeable surfacing. chuck some gravel down.
  13. mvincentd

    The POSIs Picnic: a solution is in sight.

    I really don't understand why they are saying the filler block (particularly at bottom) isn't necessary, given its so easy to achieve and surely good practice at least even if not critical at an engineering level. Their drawing shows a single block reaching from back of joist hanger to joist vertical. Might they baulk at splitting that into two blocks...suggesting a shear line is introduced as per pink on drawing below left. In which case does drawing right mitigate.
  14. mvincentd

    Internal Fire Doors

    ah, that explains why its possible to buy a pre hung fire door set that doesn't include one.
  15. mvincentd

    Internal Fire Doors

    To act as a fire door it has to be closed! The only door in our house we ever close is the front door. I wouldn't go putting them where they aren't 'required' therefore.....and where they are required that requirement extends to them needing to have an auto-closer.