mvincentd

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About mvincentd

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  1. It is what it is now, but I don't think so....I have 122mm wide posijoists at 400mm centres either side of the steels and they're not aligned webs due to the house being curved. heyho!
  2. I wouldn't disagree...it's a pain. However on a point to point system I would have had to get 12 runs of flexible ducting through steelwork, 4 times...the last of which is only a 2 metre long steel.
  3. mvincentd

    Swellable water bar

    Look beyond swellable water bar and there should be something viable. Attached is a pic of my slab with rebar rising out of it ready to tie into the concrete walls. There just so happens to be an upstand in my design but thats neither here nor there for the purpose of this conversation. The top of the upstand has aggregate exposed as a result of retarder being applied to that surface at the end of the pour (to me it makes sense to do this to the area you'd pour your icf walls onto but i've not seen it mentioned much amongst 'ICFers'). Rising out of the centre of that surface is a flat metal strip, as much of which is buried in the concrete. This was placed before the slab pour along with the rebar. It's a Sika product but right now I cant find it's name. I have the Sikaswell red bars at vertical joints so maybe it's because of the pre-wetting risk that they don't use it on the longer exposed slab. While mine wasn't icf I see no reason it wouldn't work, except if the plastic icf webs might crush it.
  4. You're not alone. At the end of last winter I bought algae remover and used on a large section of wall that was unpointed flint blocks, largely shaded over winter and looking green. The algae remover (from TP I think ??) wasn't sufficiently expensive for me to engage with home-brew ideas, and it worked well enough.
  5. I've a kitchen/living/dining area in the 170m3 ballpark....3x 125mm inlets and 2x 125mm outlets which expand into 150mm diameter ducting back to unit. I'm on a branched system with rigid duct so not sure if this is a helpful comparison or not...see attached.
  6. mvincentd

    Sewage SOS

    I doubt the chap @vivienz and I have in common had more than 4k off me for a 2 team labour, to level and blind approx 180 Sqm, and lay approx 70m of drainage inc 2 IC’s and 5cu of crates. I’m guessing at materials here, around 2k, I paid for direct. @vivienz at £11k I can see why you are questioning!
  7. mvincentd

    Sewage SOS

    With me he even got me a deal on ‘surplus to requirements’ pipe and bends from a n other Groundworker so I think he’s unlikely to be trying to stiff you on materials. Admittedly he’s not ‘cheap’ but he’s effective. That £415 for 3 team IS cheap, I’d expect £515 from him. I’d honestly be more inclined to cross check his time estimate than his materials. You mentioned in an earlier thread he was pushing to use Hepworth stuff......this might just be his perception that you only want the best rather than his insistence...he just automatically got me polypipe and I didn’t think to question it. At this stage he knows your site and job so should be able to identify to you where the problem/expensive/slow bits are better than anyone....push him for a comprehensive walk-through.
  8. mvincentd

    Basement - ICF vs Shuttered Reinforced Concrete

    I have circa 155sqm of rc walls containing 47.5cu, and 212sqm of slab containing 63.5cu Sika waterproof concrete. All shuttering was bespoke timber and fair faced ply. Sikaproof-A membrane was placed in the shuttering and is therefore bonded to the rc (external face) by the pour. There's near 1200sqm of A393 mesh and 170sqm of A142 in that lot. 172sqm of slab was powerfloated, concrete was pumped 35 metres, 8 separate days of 40 ton crane hire. Contractor was a respected specialist. £117k Independent quotes to waterproof the structure using external membranes and internal cavity drains (so replacing Sikaproof-A and Sika waterproof additive) were circa £27k...or if I chose to build icf they went up by £15k, for little better reason than them not wanting to have to waterproof subterranean icf. Are you considering a concrete 'top' because the wall/top junction is underground? If you have such a detail then ensure it is impeccably detailed and stick to a single manufacturer system of waterproofing solution...have them detail it. This will force you into a very early commitment which you might not fancy, ...but suck it up, if you value peace of mind.
  9. mvincentd

    Green roof

    If you want your sarnafil guarantee to hold up you’d be best to compose your green build up in accordance with Sika’s notion of how such things should be done. Also be aware sarnafil needs a root protection layer and i’d Personally suggest you use the sarnafil product (again for guarantee reasons). Look at the Bauder system equivalent to sarnafil......I think cheaper and better, I have both. The Bauder has a compatible thin build sedum system that’s real easy and light.
  10. This is what i’m Planning....only needs 13mm from slab top, so if you used a liquid tray and thin tile you should sneak in (your 300sq x100 recess also allows an increased fall within this area).
  11. mvincentd

    Velfac windows

    I have IdealCombi and think they (slightly) better than Velfac. Unified sight lines are harder to achieve across all units than at first appears so be sure to mention absolutely every criteria you have for each opening and explain how it’s constructed, especially thresholds, so they can establish viability. Also be sure you fully understand the tolerance and packer they’ll factor into your built dimensions....the result might be a thin frame, but it comes at the cost of a thick ‘no mans land’ of compriband around it and no real gain in glass area over many other frames. Also have them fitted by someone who is specifically experienced with them, not just a general window fitter....because they have their foibles. Having said all this I’d recommend them, and had zero problems from delivery to fit, which seems a rare thing! (Do triple check IC’s order confirmations for accuracy though).
  12. Yes am applying one coat in 2 coats.....seems necessary to eradicate block lines. Am using SBR on therms before. Has been built a year and had heavy green roof sitting on them and lots of stomping about....hopefully pretty settled, very few cracks so far. Blower proof had been considered but is a very expensive option. Anyway am effectively wet plastering now, with onecoat. Choosing onecoat as doesn’t seem to have any negatives apart from people’s perception of it as being amateur diy material....it works and gets me the texture I’m after. Materially perhaps a bit more expensive than scratch and skim materials but I don’t need the plasterers skills.
  13. I've thermalite blocks for an inner leaf of cavity construction. I'd planned to dot and dab then skim. Website wisdom says while 'correct' d&d procedure is supposed to achieve airtightness one shouldn't just make a plasterboard tent, ....parge your blockwork. All tradesmen and merchants so far have said "uh, parge, wassat then?" Knauff Parge Coat or Gyproc Soundcoat isn't stocked anywhere locally. It's all adding up to suggest nobody bothers with this step....do I have a false impression or misinformation or what? I'm now looking at achieving both the parge and my final surface by using Onecoat plaster, thereby deleting all dot dab plasterboard and skim. If I use a plasterer he'll be half the time/cost of skimming...but even I can Onecoat, though i'll never learn to skim. The tradeoff with Onecoat is the quality of finish not being as smooth as skim, but for me this is actually a desirable, I want texture....and so far in tests we've got the onecoat so smooth that i've added back texture with a paint roller. It's almost too good to be true! So what am I missing? Detail question- At my window reveals I think I need to introduce plasterboard. As pictured below my Ali framed windows are packed off the blockwork reveal by a good 20mm (weird I know-Idealcombi Futura windows) and I have airtight tape bonded from frame to blockwork( or in the case of the head; frame to Catnic lintel). On top of wall and lintel I have 4x2 timber wallplate that the joists sit on. For Onecoat should I mesh the timber as pictured and would it be wise to let that mesh run down and under the lintel....either to go behind pb that I then d&d on, or to go onto pb that I d&d on before the mesh? I'm looking for the onecoat to have a 'soft' corner where walls turn into reveals, so don't want to introduce a hard edged bead.
  14. Well you've heard it here 10 times already but i'll reiterate...forget 20 quotes. It's more likely you'll need to put out to 20 co's to get 3 quotes back. Put down any idea that because you're building a whole house you've got sway with trades, what you're doing is just normal to them even if to you it's the biggest personal financial project of your life. I also think a 'do it when you like, but cheap' negotiating stance is an invitation to have rings run around you....they'll do it when they like anyway:) Man management in a corporate environment is of course a transferable skill...but do expect a very different kind of zoo. Good luck, you'll have fun...and a nervous breakdown maybe, but it'll be worth it.
  15. mvincentd

    Plumbing questions (15mm all in? Pipe runs....)

    Thanks for tips...useful. Good luck with the rest of installation.