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About mvincentd

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    North Dorset

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  1. I think if you put PIR in the joist space of a warm flat roof you'll need to research hybrid roofs to ensure you're not heading for issues with interstitial condensation. You'll probably uncover numerous historical posts on here if you do a search. If you mean just to put the PIR in the external overhang part, that's ok. I regret not discovering the 'tony tray' in time as it makes relatively light work of making the joist space airtight, which can otherwise be 'fiddly' depending on how everything is detailed. This factor alone might turn me against posi's that 'shoot through' (making Tony tray impossible), in favour of a separate 'bolt-on' structure, perhaps based on some custom metal brackets given the 1.2m size.
  2. Brace yourself...not sure it's gonna be £50. I was connected only 3 weeks ago and the bill was....£70!
  3. I picked the links at random to illustrate the items....actually in my case I had 150mm diameter ducting so got the appropriate 'reducer' to fit that and go onto I believe a 160mm version of the chimney.
  4. I appreciate your flagging the concern, especially given the Genvex 3m requirement and my picture, however i'm on a Zehnder q350 and it states 1.5m minimum. Had I gone for a unit with a 3m requirement i'd have had real problems meeting it....anyway I had to introduce two undesirable 90 degree turns in the ducting through the joist space to achieve the 2.2m Use of a MAICO KWH as suggested by this passivehaus consultant would have enabled me to keep dead straight runs both in and out of the unit....but something tells me you wouldn't concur with his advice!
  5. I think they're 2.2m apart, which is fine with regs, in excess of my mvhr design recommendations, and acceptable to me given the exhaust air is only air that had been in my house anyway. Obviously the further apart the better but routing the ducts internally can be a minefield and there's a playoff in achieving external separation at the cost of sending the ducts through more contortions internally to achieve it.
  6. i have this ....and a reducer like this to get into my ducting. I've picked those links at random but all different diameters available at Tin top hat supposed to go atop insulation below membrane (assuming a warm flat roof) but roofers weren't concerned with using it. pic installed here
  7. @albert maybe worth noting from the example images given above that Onoff has the advantage of the supportive red tray so his ufh pipes not following the line of the mesh is unimportant, whereas the others do as far as possible stick to the mesh lines. The more instances of pipe spanning the middle of a 200mm square unsupported, the more vulnerability to a clumsy wellie etc' you have.
  8. The point of plastic tubes is to thermally break the fixing, whereas long wood screws represent hundreds of little thermal bridges.
  9. Snowcrete and 'light' sand with a dash of lime....and Marmite for colour reference (+ral 7021 door). To my eye the sand itself was yellow grey and distinctly pale when aside a standard sand, but in isolation I wouldn't think to describe it as white wasn't silica arena sand. When I wanted to use leftover snowcrete to haunch a kerb in my brickie was reluctant as he had reservations about it's strength. We've only used it for the pointing.
  10. August 2017 I was quoted £4750 for design & supply of Comfoair q350 based system + £350 to commission ( I believe the designing element represented £350). My ducting system is a bit different so i'd think you probably can just go out and buy your materials for £3000ish. The Comfocool system was quoted at £ not only required the addition of the Comfocool unit but also using all pre-insulated ducting and using the larger q600 mvhr.....for the sake of some not particularly effective cooling. I installed it all myself and am currently running it 'uncommissioned'....i'm expecting to fork out the £350 commissioning fee just to buy off the feeling that I might not have set it up to get the best out of it, but if you're not at all bamboozled by this document then I reckon you can do it all yourself. ComfoAir_Q_2018_(merged).pdf
  11. Indeed, maybe no reason but certainly Ideal Combi refused me a low-e/opaque combination saying either/or, so perhaps is worth people being alert to checking their chosen supplier does work with it.
  12. Even undisturbed chalk will put a sludgy sticky mess under foot when wet, and will be an ice rink in deep winter. I've had a chalk drive for 2 winters and am thrilled to have just gravelled it.
  13. I have 2 opaque units that are within 0.15 of their equivalent clear ones. (I do recall wanting ‘Low e’ glass for one of them due to its size and position, but was told it’s ‘either or’)
  14. solid core oak from £50 I always keep an eye on these guys having purchased 7 engineered wood doors from them at £10 each (+ £60 delivery) and finding them to be really solid, easily 25kg each.
  15. Ah, the simple explanations are the best! So according to your accurate independent sensors, you get pretty well zero uplift when new air passes through the unit on bypass? In which case i'll ignore the readouts on the unit because they were leading me to believe the mvhr was less helpful against our overheating than open windows currently! Thanks