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About mvincentd

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    North Dorset

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  2. I have one window done with this approach, suggested by the window fitter and approved by idealcombi.
  3. mvincentd

    Help with my noggins please

    I've just fallen foul of this. I put noggins at 1200 vertical centres on advice of builder, but they stagger with every other one being 1150 to make fixing them with paslode with 50mm thick noggins the consistent unimpeded height where I can unify top of back box height has resultantly become 1125. Rules say top of switch max 1200, and depending on switch plate thats approx 25mm lower than top of my switches have been pushed down 100mm by my noggin strategy. Given i'm boarding 2400 vertically i'm gaining nothing having noggins where they are versus set 100mm higher.
  4. mvincentd

    flimsy Eclisse pocket

    I've just plasterboarded my Eclisse sliding door frame and the result is pretty flimsy. I'm considering taking it all off and starting again with ply instead but i'm not convinced the same thickness of ply will make a load of difference. Also the minimal depth of grab the supplied screws achieve into the steel frame (to avoid intruding into the pocket) make me unsure about choosing a much chunkier heavier ply thickness (...and thicker material will necessitate more mitigation when it comes to the supplied lining kit too). Interested in others experiences and solutions, thanks?
  5. I have a warm flat roof which from outside in goes as follows; membrane insulation vcl osb deck furrings metal web joists & associated void plasterboard (& eventual skim) I created upstands for skylights after the deck went on, before vcl etc(as per every and any picture i can find on google). These are 25mm ply sided boxes on 75mm timber framework which are insulated in between. The vcl crosses the deck and climbs the external face of the ply upstand, not to the top but just enough to ensure the membrane joins it to encapsulate the insulation. The membrane does climb to the top. The width of deck underneath the upstand therefore does not have vcl and nor does the internal vertical face which will get plasterboarded. I now think I need vcl lining the skylight void before plaster boarding....but where to terminate I cant seamlessly join to the deck vcl? I dont feel i've created anything unusual and yet cant find any illustration of a comprehensive vcl in this scenario. Minor additional question; at the top edge of the plasterboard which stops just shy of the skylight glass, what should be the approach to finishing this?....i'm imagining it could be the recipient of any condensation that drips off the glass?
  6. mvincentd

    Board concrete form moulds

    i'm actually going to experiment next week with rendering a wall with Thistle Onecoat then stamping it with board. I know from prior experiments that the board can create suction and drag the wet muck off with it, and also that if too dried it won't take the stamp, so the working time window of receptive surface is quite short. I wouldn't want too much wall rendered and drying at once. It shouldn't be any great problem to do it in small sections anyway. I did one boardform wall with poured concrete. You need a product called Adowax to smear on the wood as a release agent. I just used rough sawn 4 x 1 and 6 x1 from Travis. Typically for a poured wall the concrete will be a pump mix, so not stiff, and it will get pokered a lot to remove air. I fear without these in your mould system you will get voids in the surface that will really spoil the aesthetic.
  7. mvincentd

    Plasterboarding on yer lonesome ....

    I'm currently on this task myself and have purchase a board lifter, which will get its first use tomorrow. I have relatively simple low flat ceilings but it's still brutal work. My 15mm boards are 33kg each and if I can just once lift them over my head then step onto a hop-up, use my head to hold the board against the ceiling in the correct position and tack it on....I certainly cant do it multiple times, and then turn up to do it again the next day. A deadman or two are helpful, but are also more to juggle when single-handed. The board lifter (based on an initial play) will make the task 'viable' solo..but painfully slow. I'm imagining two people working together can do 6 times the pace of a solo. I cant really grasp the idea of putting a lift on a tower and trying to operate it safely others i'm a bit concerned.
  8. mvincentd

    Elvis has left the building

    All looking great and tantalisingly close to habitable. Ian is plastering for me in April so great to see your photos of his nice work.
  9. mvincentd

    Pleased & relieved

    Sorry to hear such sad news, especially when there is so much to be proud of, not least of which yourself. Great respect to you and indeed your husband.
  10. mvincentd

    Excavation cost / benefit?

    2 years ago I paid £21k for the combined excavation and muck away of 3000 tons of largely chalk. This was pretty much the price of most of the other muckaway quotes without the dig. The exceptional advantage of my chosen contractor was his yard being only 3 miles/8 minutes away versus the next closest at 20 minutes. ..... so geography will likely be a big factor in your price. Go make friends with your local farmer or anyone else with land where they could lose your muck.
  11. mvincentd

    Comical EPC thingy

    My plumber told me he knows a farmer with a biomass boiler which he runs 365 24/7 and opens the doors/windows in the summer....because govt incentives effectively pay him to do so.
  12. mvincentd

    Cedar Cladding

    My untreated western red cedar is silvering........or at least I hope it is! I don't know how to differentiate natural silvering from fungal decay. After rain its quite grey and blotchy, and if I rub the surface with my finger it pills like wet paper and reveals the original colour beneath. Paranoia is creeping I have a problem?
  13. mvincentd

    Heras fencing

    Paid £12 per panel set (fence, foot, connector) and £50 delivery, used good condition from who tend to have loads available after festival season ends, don't know about right now. How much you need, where are you?
  14. You can spec trimmable ends, and to varying amounts...i was able to take up to 100mm off each end of mine.
  15. mvincentd

    Green roof

    Sedum will be in growing medium and the growing medium will either be in trays or it will be on a route protection membrane/barrier, and this lot will be on your waterproof membrane (of single ply/GRP/felt/rubber/whatever ). It is possible to have a waterproof membrane that incorporates its own root protection into it, but that’s not the most typical situation. It is also possible that you might choose to incorporate other layers between the growing medium and the root protection... such as water retention/ drainage mat( possibly sandwiched between the fleece). If you don’t want to just follow the rules big roof membrane co’s lay down in order to maintain their guarantees, Charles Fentiman might be a good one to consult: