mvincentd

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About mvincentd

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  1. This thread is a tad mystifying. I don’t know what I’m missing but it’s content doesn’t seem to inform why a representative of the FMG and mod team should choose to publicly slap down an established forum member in this manner. I don’t actually know Sensus, but I’ve been at the wrong end of his responses and found their tone superior and intolerant, so it surprises me to find myself coming to his defence. However, an obnoxous tone doesn’t invalidate the information provided alongside.....and I do consider sensus as credible a source of information as any on the forum. Should that information fall short of comprehensive but act as a prompt to dig further, then fine by me. Was Nickfromwales speaking with Buildhubs voice???
  2. I have them due to straight sections of wall separated by full height windows...so walls not turning corners are less stable.
  3. you can set it up without it becoming 'actionable'(can't remember the correct term) so if your mum never loses mental capacity it wouldn't be relevant.....if she did, then someone's going to be making decisions on her behalf, she cant escape that fact.
  4. If the senders initials are SK then do expect some frustrations, and check quotes/confirmations with an absolute fine tooth comb!! I suspect its a timing thing, you caught them busy, ...and combined with your enquiry being 'general' rather than specific and not sounding like an imminent order...they sacrificed you in order to work on stronger prospects. Feel free to pm me if I might be able to answer your enquiries re futura, I have F+i & both types of sliders.
  5. No, keep oblong box room but make its big window a bay in a cheese wedge shape....bad example here but 1st I could find in a hurry;
  6. Is your concern that he ‘borrowed’ the drawings...or that you might end up with an identikit house next door after going to the trouble of having something distinctive and personal designed? I might save my powder given the relative insignificance of the former (and relative ease with which he could modify in a very minor way and circumvent), in anticipation of lodging a planning objection which might ultimately bring about a more significantly adjusted design. (Not withstanding of course maybe circumstances are such that it’s a safer bet having a matching house next door)
  7. Whilst I’m quite anti going to the trouble of building an aesthetically bog standard house I do think that if this is the only ‘divergent’ angle it may prove visually awkward/pleasing in equal measure. You could look at flipping to a contemporary bay window there, possibly even at a ‘cheese wedge’ angle thereby maintaining the constructionally simpler oblong at floor and roof intersections.
  8. Looks like evalon uses heat welded joints like sarnafil. I had a 4" length of weld that....wasn't welded. Sloppy installation, although easy to understand how it could happen....it's unskilled mind numbing work, but does require absolute fastidiousness, so if the phone goes while your at it and its the wife wanting a divorce it's easy to see how a fitter might falter. Check you cant push something like a very blunt bradawl under any part of the welds. I assume its membrane, insulation, vcl, deck....so if water has got through the membrane it will drop to the vcl, but thats near as dammit waterproof so the water will then run along the fall until it finds a failing in the vcl through which to soak the deck.....probably in a totally different area to the membrane fail. If your leak is at the extreme low edge of the fall; I believe my current leak will prove to be where the vcl turns up the side of the stop-edge that borders the roof edge which is the low side of the fall...I remember the vcl was installed with varying degrees of radius here rather than being tucked hard against the 90 degree turn, so there would be unsupported bits of vcl with pockets of air in effect, which I think could viably be punctured by the square edged insulation when laid. If the puncture wasn't entirely at deck level but say 6mm up then my vcl could be holding substantial water built up over time and only now overflowing each time it rains. None of which informs where the actual membrane leak is.
  9. whats the roof make-up? what stage of construction is it at where the leak is manifesting...ie are you seeing a wet underside of roof deck or are you seeing wet ceiling plaster?? Where water is coming-out is one thing, where its going in is another....as I'm sure you appreciate. Apparently the accuracy is not really so good as to provide any truly comprehensive reassurance but it will serve to pick up some installation errors. On tuesday my sarnafil installers will attempt to identify the source of my second leak and i'm bracing myself for the need to possibly remove half of the green roof growing medium (approx 6 tons) and put it 'somewhere'!
  10. Have your requests pointed out to them that as a vat registered entity actively collecting vat they have a legal obligation to provide properly formatted vat receipts and that you intend to inform hmrc that they are not in compliance with this.
  11. Good news. I love how dark our village is...only 1 streetlight in the whole village...it was the biggest surprise moving here from a city. There has just been dpp granted for a new cafe in an old barn in our village and has to have 'storm doors' that close over the skylights, with the dark sky reserve in mind. .........it also hasn't been permitted windows looking onto the aonb....uh???
  12. Given you've already wired to thermostat positions (are the back boxes on?) you can start by using as a single zone and if dont like then just cut through to the back boxes and put stats on. You'll also need to add actuators to the manifold and a wiring hub alongside it. I've used Heatmiser neostat v2's and neohubs. I've 2 manifolds with 4 and 7 loops from which i've created 6 zones (stats). The kit and caboodle to do this cost ballpark £650 plus (from the stage you're at now) it'll be an electricians day to hook it all up. Slightly off your topic Viv, I wonder if those promoting a single zone approach would do so almost regardless of house layout? I'm dealing with essentially a long bungalow with one half being bedrooms and the other being a single open plan live/dine/kitchen, and historically we never actively heat bedrooms(though they've always been upstairs so benefitted from rising heat).
  13. theory is that if it starts a certain thickness and its backing is peeled off it will then expand into the gap....which needs to not be larger than would require only a partial expansion of the compriband....and indeed keep a partial compression of the compriband. If it fully expands then the compriband won't be compressed and won't achieve it's optimum capabilities of 'watertightness'. Use the right size for the gap you have, eg; for 7-12mm gap the compriband on the roll is 5mm. It doesn't go hard, remains spongy. It is impregnated though and I wouldn't expect it to be waterlogged like a sponge even a fully freely expanded offcut lying around......maybe cheap imitation of compriband not impregnated? (all this is just my limited experience of using it on my one build).
  14. @Russell griffiths how did you do it.....as I think you had a similar (50mm) jump;