mvincentd

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About mvincentd

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    North Dorset

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  1. @Ian if you're in conversation with the Sika inspectors it would be interesting to ask them if Sika have now "withdrawn from waterproofing icf below ground as a result of getting too many problems associated with it." These are the precise words my Sika inspector said to me last week.
  2. If your on the same footprint do you mean the excavations already exist as required. Is any of the existing building acting as retaining these excavations. If so can any of this viably remain. If it is ALL to be removed what then protects the excavations. It's very typical of Poole given land prices, to utilise every last inch of plot and so ‘real life buildability’ becomes a question to consider with your Principle Designer amongst others. You could find a logistical consideration around how a builder physically achieves a task, significantly steers what tasks you should present the builder with....so you might get a great price for icf, followed by an insistance on sacrificial sheet piling to make it safe to then waterproof it externally, followed by a monumental quote to have a waterproofing system that comes with a guarantee worth its paper. Be wary of the headline price of icf. I love the concept of icf, researched it a lot, went on the Nudura course, pushed my SE at it and had my builds working drawings done based on using it, got quotes for it and for waterproofing it. I’m definitely not against icf....but the project has to be right for it. Walking away from it crushed my aspirations to literally self build my house, and drastically reset my budget before I’d even dug a hole. Unfortunately most SE’s, architects etc are still quite inexperienced with it so aren’t best placed to instantly know if your project is right for it...they really need to engage with YOUR situation rather than just shoot back some generalist reticence about icf. By the same token, and with the greatest of respect to those who have used icf above ground and express general enthusiasm for it, Its useful info but I don’t believe it gets you any further forward...below ground retaining walls are a very different kettle of fish. Are you going to actually build this yourself.....do you actually need a lightweight, low skill product to get to the end result of a poured in situ concrete wall with insulation either side. Icf is not THE way to get a poured concrete wall....it’s A way. I used built in situ shuttered concrete, carried out by a specialist contractor, which is slow, wasteful and soul destroying, and I wouldn’t as a generalisation recommend it, but I’ve yet to be persuaded it wasn’t the best option for my project. I honestly hope you can conclude that icf is good for you (but I doubt it) as I love the concept....just don’t let loving the concept lead to a blinkered determination to use it. My build is 25 mins from yours...you are welcome to come look, just pm me....I think I can show you stuff that’s pretty relevant to your project.
  3. Well on Wednesday they tried to tell me SA couldn't do heating AND dhw....then said they'd check with technical, and i've heard nothing since. I don't see these guys solving any time soon the difficulties we're all having with the communication of good information on Sunamps.
  4. mvincentd

    Hi from Dorset- re-build project

    Adam, just off Lulworth Avenue right on the corner of the Hamworthy Park carpark there's what i'm 99% sure is a durisol build going on....blocks going up currently...you might fancy being nosey. Don't allow your love for the concept of icf to get in the way of your hearing what might be legitimate concerns of your architect...he might have little experience of it but correct me if i'm wrong, you have none? Seems you're at a pretty early stage in your design process still, so it might pay to remain open minded.
  5. hah, well at least today my building inspector has been pragmatic about the adjoining door; says a bog standard old style solid wood fd30 will do with a lock on it, and the garage doors will surely be secure enough. It's a nice easy going response.
  6. mvincentd

    How do I fill this gap?

    Vivienz, what's your final floor build up consist of on top of the concrete slab? I'm hoping there's a degree of 'optical illusion' going on in this photo.....the slab height relative to the window unit looks somewhat 'marginal'?
  7. mvincentd

    Acid stained concrete floor finish?

    At the end of the day it's only going to affect colour, not texture...so you need to be happy with your concrete surface as it is, otherwise you'll need to factor in some level of grinding work.
  8. mvincentd

    Concrete Edging Repair

    Adowax is shuttering release agent, but i'd struggle to discern it particularly from any other wax (including ear)...so don't waste the money for just a little bit. Fosroc conbextra gp or maybe hf ....these are civil engineering grouts so local merchant unlikely to have. Its what my SE wanted me to use for a similar situation.
  9. mvincentd

    Widest french doors

    I saw a set of side hinged Tekentrup doors today, 2.5m wide brick to brick...losing65mm each side to frame so 2370 drive through. https://www.teckentrup.co.uk
  10. In your situation as drawn Vijay you could put a wicket door into the lefthand garage door rather than bash a whole new opening to the side. Or if as you say its going to be one large garage door you could use a side slider like Hormann HST with a preset that just auto opens it a 'personnel width'. I got a quote of £5800 inc fitting &vat for a 4.6m wide by 2.2 high. Am struggling with these conundrums myself currently too. Hormann personnel garage doors are not secure by design, but their sectional doors are. The personnel doors aren't cheap compared to the sectional doors. However we plan to use the personnel door more often than our front door, treating the 1st quarter of the garage much like a porch. We have a 4.6m opening & I plan to put a 1m personnel door, a 0.6m 'decorative infill panel', then a 3m sectional door. My front door is a couple metres to the left and the opening is 1.6m which will be a 1m front door & a 0.6m 'decorative infill panel'. Trying to get an aesthetic match through front door, personnel door and garage door without breaking the bank. Hormann seems like sensible middle ground. BUT the personnel door isn't secure by design. I think it's possible to swap this to a Latham security door and ral colour match (some compromise to aesthetic matching but minimal as we are trying to keep everything very plain). Going this way would make the garage sufficiently secure that the adjoining door into the house wouldn't strictly need to be secure by design I believe? It would still have to be fd30 and I believe u-value 1.4 or better? A door that's all things....sbd fd30 u-1.4 seems to cause furrowed brows wherever I ask for one....to the point i'm thinking i've misunderstood my requirements. All in all i've caught myself out with some unexpected expense, not giving due consideration to all the implications of garage door, front and rear garage personnel doors, and adjoining house door....and aesthetic matching to nearby main front door.
  11. mvincentd

    Retaining wall and habitable spaces

    In basemented sections I went for external insulation, dpm, reinforced concrete wall...that's it, a spot of clear sealer on the walls and i'm decorated. You could dot n dab plasterboard on if you prefer a more traditional aesthetic. Be sure to carefully detail all areas where external insulation has to transfer to cavity or internal.
  12. Aluminium frames with PUR insulated cores that pass all the CWCT tests, and provide unified profiles with all your other windows, at Velfac prices; idealcombi Futura.
  13. mvincentd

    Paint for concrete floor?

    https://www.watco.co.uk/paint-and-sealers
  14. mvincentd

    PIR variations

    Are they coated differently, ie foil or not.
  15. mvincentd

    protecting flat roof from rain

    How long do you think you'll need temporary cover? This was monumentally stressful for me all last winter. I started out thinking it was just a few weeks and so didn't put enough time and effort into the 'temporary' setup. I ended up using 800sqm of dpm repeatedly trying different solutions and reworking it. If you make a tent be sure to give it a good pitch so the weight of water...or snow..doesnt 'dish' the dpm into the framework and create individual swimming pools!