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Looks like the one in that listing doesn't come with the pokey bit, as the same seller has this listing for the same motor unit that includes a 1.5m poker: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handheld-Electric-Concrete-Vibrator-580W-150cm-Vibrating-Poker-Bottle-/333168934931?hash=item4d926a8013

Trevor at Cylinders2go will give you a good price too, if you want a comparison. He did a group purchase discount a while back for the forum posse

@Nickfromwales true enough, the improvement is a diffuser that helps retain the stratification even after drawing some water off, and some sensors to measure what the hot water "fill" level is. I too will be keen to get the price, vs comparably insulated and speced Newark UVC.

Do you want it to carry the load permanently or just long enough to add fixings? If permanently then i think you want to beware of creep. Eg it might support the load initially but over several years it slowly compresses the insulation. I've never done the sums before but just for fun... Google found some data for PIR in here....see "Continuous compressive stress".. http://www.react-ite.eu/uploads/tx_mddownloadbox/PP02_Thermal_insulation_materials_-_PP02_20130715.pdf It talks about 40kpa causing 1.5% deformation over 5 years and 2% over 20+ years. So if you had a ground floor window supported on 1m (height) of PIR it would compress 1.5% of 1m or 15mm over 5 years under a pressure of 40kpa. Sounds a lot but the pressure may not be that high under a window... To work out the pressure you would need to know the weight of the window in Kg and the area it rests on. Making up some numbers... Suppose it was a 100kg window resting on a strip of 75mm * 2000mm. The pressure would be.. Force/area = 100*9.8/(0.075*2) = 6.5kpa So might expect a 1m depth of PIR rated for 40kpa to compress 15mm * 6.5/40 = 2.5mm over 5 years. Good enough?

I had a GRP box made up for my front door sill. It's got a ply spine and filled with PIR. Haven't fitted yet so can't be sure it's going to work. But if it does I'll use the same method for the other doors

I've got same ICF cavity closer set up as you although in a different colour. I plan to install windows in an 18mm ply box, primarily to set the windows a bit closer to the outside as I've got 200mm outer EPS. If fixed on 4 sides through to concrete core I don't see the windows dropping.

Dont worry man, yer overthinking it. You have no idea how much I enjoyed writing that. No idea.

Our window openings / cavity closers were formed with timber. Yes, a cold bridge, but in the grand scheme of things didn't seem a detail worth obsessing about - provided an easy means for fixing windows. I'm sure it has a bit of an impact on our heating requirement, but at £200 a year for heating in our windswept location, I'm not really that worried.

What about cutting out a narrow strip along the line of the window and replacing it with something denser and more stable sitting straight onto the concrete? Something like a GRP box section or I-beam, or some laminated strips of concrete board? That'd minimise thermal bridging, although as you say, XPS might be a better shout on this point. What does the manufacturer say about long term compression?

Thanks @Ferdinand but I am going backwards on the posh shed at the moment. The flood considerations may require a fundamental redesign (and significant cost increase) ?.

Thats cheap - pay about £7 a tonne around here ..!

I was lucky, they were doing lots of resurfacing around me and I bought about 40 tons of the stuff for my drive and paths etc. At £4 a ton.

We had cess pit that serviced the old bungalow, I had it emptied,knocked the top off and filled it with builders waste (soil, clay, rubble) and topped it off with top soil, cheaper than a skip!!!,

'Cos you're a tough act to follow! ?

I added that bit when you were writing I think The downside for someone bringing a house that has been empty for over 2 years but not 10 years back into use is that there is no reclaim scheme so they either have to only use supply & fit arrangements @5% from VAT registered traders or pay 20% VAT themselves that can't be reclaimed if they are DIYing. The reclaim scheme for eligible conversions is EXACTLY like the new build scheme other than for labour or supply & fit you are charged 5% VAT initially that you claim back when you do the reclaim.

Kango?

Looks very much like a fairly generic Chinese import. Might be OK, but it doesn't seem to be inverter controlled (giveaway is the big motor start capacitor), so will be an "all or nothing" machine, much like units from a decade or so ago. I suspect a look around somewhere like Alibaba would find the exact same unit available direct from China.

Because that roof design is a pig..!! Why the Dutch barn roof for example ..?? The roof lights aren’t helping, they are quite high in the pitch so would mean that purlins would get in the way and a collar tie truss would possibly mean they’d need to be lower in the roof plane. Do the angled rooms rooms really need 4.5m high ceilings ..??

The "MH" on the plan will be for a manhole, I suspect. If the intention was to connect to mains drainage as soon as it was available then it may well have been a cess pit, and the original owners may have just put up with having it regularly emptied for the time that it was in use. Should make it easier to find, too, as the chances are what's marked as a manhole may be the access to the cess pit.

Best way to find them is to locate the inspection chambers on the drain runs, lift the lids and see where the pipes go. Any disused inspection chamber should be obvious, as it'll be dry and probably half full of muck. If you can follow the line of the old pipes then you should find evidence of the old septic tank. One of that age will almost certainly be brick or block built, as the GRP ones didn't really become popular until the 1980's. BTW, it will be a septic tank in all probability, rather than a cess pit. Cess pits aren't very common, as they need emptying several times a year, whereas a septic tank will drain to a leach field or soakaway of some sort, so will only need emptying once every year or two. Sensible to be wary of the thing not having been properly filled in. We had one collapse years ago and never knew it was there until then. It was right under my mother's farmyard, too.

very rough calc would say 18cubic metres of something which would be approx 24 tote bags @£35 ? a bag ==£840 or a truck load --if you can get it direct to tip it in

Cheapest fill is probably crushed concrete waste, as @nod suggests. if you want it to be a part of a garden, then worth smashing the top part in first, so it ends up down the hole, backfill with crushed concrete to within about half a metre from the top, then level off with topsoil.

The cost of filling it sounds high Though 2.5 tons doesn’t sound that much We had two old tanks to fill Both 2 mtr circular and 6 mtr deep We filled both with concrete I can’t remember the cost But only took a couple of hours If you have good access it should take long to back a lorry up and tip 10 ton in and see how far you are off levelling I’d wouldn’t use sand I would use the cheapest hardcore Reclaimed If you haven’t the access you would need a nan and a digger for half a day Still well within what you have been quoted Get the area surrounding the pit graded at the same time Within the price

I filled ours with shingle sharp sand and cement 3 1 1 same mix as wet dash Sets like iron

DO NOT remove the locking ring if you want to keep your fingers ! I have been using these knives for years and the only time I have cut myself is when the locking ring is not engaged. They are just not designed to work without it. IMHO

Yes. Just make sure it actually comes with the pokey bit

I had a similar thing, pedestrian traffic only, and ended up speaking to Marley technical. They said anything above 600mm should have a concrete cap (slabs or in situ concrete) over the top. 75mm gravel between crown of pipe and base of concrete.

I bought one very like that (from eBay, I think) for my build and it worked very well. Presumably not going to last for ever but it's not showing any signs of age and when I stripped forms it appeared to have done a good job.

There are a lot of differences between a home pool and public pool. This article explains the issues regarding steel corrosion. https://atguv.com/2015/12/18/how-uv-can-reduce-corrosion-in-swimming-pool-structure/ Public pools are open all day and heavily used. They will probably have a higher level of chlorine in the 1-1.5ppm range. The swimming pool smell that we are used to is not chlorine but chloramines caused by reactions of contaminants with the chlorine. It is these which particularly attack stainless steel. My pool has a UV treatment which breaks these down and you never smell that "swimming pool" smell. On top of this the pool is rarely open for more than a few hours a week and rarely has more than 2 or 3 people in it, so you just aren't sending as many chemicals into the atmosphere. Public pools are normally set to a 30C room temperature and left permanently open and evaporating. You often see condensing water all over the place in these pools. You should not see that in a well insulated private pool. Mine is only wet where people splash water. The combination of excessive temperature and humidity and chemicals in the atmosphere all lead to public pools frankly often being really unpleasant to be in and basically falling apart as everything is damaged by heat and humidity and chemicals. You really should not be getting a similar situation in a private pool.

I get the strong feeling that some of the interpretations of building regs are a result of "if the only tool you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail" mentality. The regs make no reference to needing laminated glass, they simply state that any ground floor door or opening window must provide a degree of protection from someone breaking the glass, putting a hand in and being able to unlatch it. Laminated glass is one possible solution, but not the only one. Anything that stopped the window/door from being opened by a hand poked through would comply with what Part Q actually stipulates.

I had the same issue. On here it says 600 http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain02.htm my BCO wanted concrete over it but mine was on the front drive, so maybe different depending on pedestrian or vehicle traffic?

No poker needed, it’s not holding up the bloody M1, save money for next project.

Welcome.

Welcome @Akadingbat.