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I reckon they must be intelligent but dyslexic Magpies, they read his post and wanted to demonstrate their preference for ITV children's programming. "Go with Noakes, that will learn him, squawk squawk".

KISS would be a neon and stuff'em!

I'm convinced there's a bit of subconscious influence at work when it comes to whether or not we feel cool. 21°C indoors when it's dark, grey and wet outside feels too cool. the same temperature indoors when it's bright and sunny feels fine. We've noticed that this effect is far more pronounced in the early evening, for some reason. I guess we must sense the change in light level for the time of day and that somehow recalibrates how we feel temperature.

Somebody lopping the shrubs could also find the situation illuminating, briefly.

Higher ceilings are really important in large open plan areas that are the fashion. The bigger the room, the higher the ceilings should be. We're going with 2.7m in most spaces and vaulted on the first floor.

Standard plaster comes in 2.4, 2.7 and 3m. Plus 1 for high ceilings. We have 2.9m so cut off a 10cm of the 3m plaster.

All the timber you are buying is pretty much dependant on where it comes from. In general all the Larch grown in the UK is of fairly low quality. Makes sure you are buying Siberia Larch or European Larch from somewhere like Poland, Czech, Austria, where there is a proper winter and some mountains. This makes the larch grow slower and the wood of a better quality (harder wood). I don't know if this is something that regularly happens, but I was advised by UK timber dealer and sawmill to hang Cladding wet. This is complete rubbish and should be avoided at all costs. Only a sales tactic to get rid of wet timber and never heard this anywhere else. So either air dried or kiln dried. When properly dried shrinkage and movement with Siberian larch should be minimal, specially if you keep the timber on site for a few weeks before installing to let it "adjust" to local conditions. Also normally you should get way more than 15 years out of a decent batch of larch board. IMHO the most solid form of cladding is Board on board or board and batten (also Wayne Edge does something similar) as it allows the timber to move. Does not matter which one you use, all timber will move at least a little so I would prevent faults by using a technique that has been proofen for a few hundred years. Value/money siberian larch is pretty unbeatable. The high Sap content is making it so durable and it is still easy to work with. Instead of pre drilling, I would hand nail it.

Welcome. With a name like that, I hope you're following the gut microbiome/low carb thread

Hi there, corvids are exceptionally intelligent, and may have initially been rewarded by pecking insects and are now finding this to be enormous fun! Apparently aluminium ammonium sulphate can be used as a bitter tasting deterrent. I assume they were initially drawn to the windows by their reflection, its very common for birds to get fixated around mating time as they become territorial, and this may have something to do with it. If this is part of it and you can stop the reflections for a while it may extinguish the behaviour. I know a bird behaviour expert on FB, so will ask there for more suggestions. Sorry, I know nothing about silicone....

Shotgun, however make sure they have moved away from the window first.

My sprayer is on wheels, i find them clumsy esp when you are working just yourself. I would prefer just moving the pick up tube.

quick butchers 1st few that came up https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TITAN-IMPACT-440-AIRLESS-PAINT-SPAYER-WITH-HOSE-AND-GUN-101645-1-EB/283489010268?hash=item420143025c:g:~EwAAOSwJYZc4COV&frcectupt=true https://www.ebay.com/itm/Graco-490-Ultimate-MX-II-PC-Pro-Paint-Sprayer-bundled-w-Hose-and-Gun/283496299641?epid=1475638985&hash=item4201b23c79:g:kE8AAOSwOstc3H3B https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Graco-Nova-390-PC-Pro-Connect-Electric-Airless-Paint-Sprayer/264359369096?epid=2256164711&hash=item3d8d0bd988:g:9~IAAOSwR5FdAPah

Clause 16 is essentially a removal of your PD. I believe it is common in new builds, we also have it. You have planning agreed and cannot lose it by making a new application, (provided you are within the validity period of 3 years) so I would suggest no harm in putting in a new application. If you are close to the end of the validity date you can lock it in by starting development (e.g. dig a trench) then put in a new application. If you get the new scheme agreed then move on with that. In England, planning officers are difficult to speak to, but varies by area. They might ask you to put in a pre-planning application, which (IMO) is a waste of time as they can make decisions (judgements) which they do not have to defend as they would with a planning application. But no harm in trying to speak to them, I rang a few times and finally got someone who gave me some input. The difficulty for you is that you do not own the land yet, so if you apply (which you can) the land-owner could refuse to sell to you or raise the price if the value of the new house would be higher then the current plan. So you can either buy it and then apply or get some kind of agreement with the seller in place and apply on that basis. You are going to need specialist advise (solicitor) for the agreement if going the latter route.

Not with my windows it doesn't.

Hi, I am in England and not aware of NI requirements Here council is one option for BC, but private companies can also do too. I used Buildzone, adding BC on top of their Warranty was a small difference, I think around £200 (but was a while ago and memory not so good...).

I think there are still not any confirmed cases of legionairs disease, as opposed to the presences of the bacteria, caused by DHW systems. I may be wrong as it is a few years since a heated debate about this happened over at the other place. When I worked for the council, we had all the taps and tanks tested, part of the system got closed down and sterilised. Up until then, no one had reported any symptoms. After the system was isolated, a few people got ill and blamed it on the water. Go figure.

Remember to buy the machine on the way TO Vegas, not the way back.

Have you had a look on American fleebay (ebay.com)? There was a few selling new machines back when I was looking around, I have bought a lot of dewalt power tools that way.

The hose goes directly into the bucket. It’s identical to a Titan 400 just badged as Wagner for Eu and aus. Ive seen a few used machines for sale but they are £500+ and you don’t really know what you are buying. I’m considering a weekend in Vegas and bringing a Graco 390 back. Would be cheaper than buying one over here. I will be keeping it rather than selling it on.

Try Protek for a better site insurance policy cost.

Your body temperature starts falling in the evenings - that probably has an effect:

@lizzie The finance will totally depend on the type of project. For some types the deposit will be sufficient to get a self build mortgage, but there's a particular one that I've found where the planning consent has lapsed so isn't immediately mortgageable. For this one it would be the bridging finance that makes it feasible because without it I wouldn't have sufficient capital to buy the plot, even though once I've renewed the consent the figures appear to stack up fine for a mortgage.

I have Silvalbp Siberian Larch with new Age Gris sacrificial coating - via Vincent Timber. Its a horizontal secret fix. Stainless steel fixings used. The quality of the larch was far superior to other larch samples I had from Vastern etc I had always thought I would have WRC and had lots of samples, was pretty set on one from Russwood with Siou coating. Last minute unexpected swerve to larch when I saw the Silva lbp Larch sample - it was a coup de foudre! Reason for me dithering on the cedar was really because of the colour variations even from v expensive supplier - Russwood. I was also concerned with what you term bruising...if someone bashed a garden chair into it would not look good all dented. The larch is reassuringly heavy and feels more durable. We are high on a ridge very exposed. Our larch does not appear to have moved much on the house in the last year however my bin store and meter cupboards have had had a lot of swelling and shrinkage. That may have happened on the house but we are just not aware of it. I had a superb carpenter to fit it. Very experienced and took account of timber movement. I wanted the sacrificial coating as I hate the uneven old shed look and blackened bits a no no for me. Ours is crisp and beautiful and we have white render and RAL 706 too. I hope it remains as beautiful as it ages. I can't say anything about the longevity as too new but I would be expecting more than 15 years from it. The pic is last year about this time.

That is a good price then. I would find out who the local inspection partner is and give them a call

As above, I store at 48’ with an UVC so have concluded the risk is very minimal. On one of these threads I am sure someone wrote that there has never been a domestic case of legionella causing a problem.

It's a question of evaluating the real, versus imaginary, risk. If the DHW system is closed, so that disinfected mains pressure water comes in and hot water comes out, with no means for anything to enter the system, then the legionella risk is miniscule, as there's no path for the bacteria to make their way into the system. If the DHW is fed from an open cold water tank, or a water source that has not been disinfected, then there's clearly a significant risk that bacteria may be able to make their way into the DHW system and then multiply. Similarly, if the DHW only has a small volume, such as a thermal store or Sunamp, where the only volume of hot water is in the heat exchanger and pipes, then the risk is also small, as the water will be flushed through often enough to reduce the risk of any bacteria multiplying.

Early in my career I spent several years modelling the underwater plunge behaviour of air launched torpedoes, to try and predict the 3D underwater trajectory for the short time between water entry and motor start up, so the range of attitudes, depth and velocities in all axes could be predicted (the aim was to inform the guidance control people of the sort of start up conditions they would have to deal with). Back then we were coding in Fortran 77, using an ICL located 200 miles away, that compiled our code (transmitted via a 300 baud teleprinter link) overnight. Each day started by going through the errors flagged in the printouts that had piled up overnight, before trying to fix the code and move on to the next section. The best bit was validating the model, as that meant designing and building a pretty robust sensor and data logger (using 1/2" magnetic tape and missile data recorders) that we fitted inside dummy torpedoes that were released over as wide a range of drop conditions as we could manage. It did mean I got to fly a lot, though, which led to a shift to a career in flight test. To get the highest release speeds, we had to chuck the things out of a Canberra, doing around 400kts at maybe 150ft ASL. Lots of fun...

Galvanised conduit may be a real pain to run along that fence, plus it's not easy to pull cables through long runs of the stuff. If it were me I'd just cleat SWA to the fence and perhaps add a batten alongside it to give a bit of added impact and rub protection from stray branches. As to legality, whilst it's true that the wiring regs are only guidance, and not the law, this is a Part P notifiable job (in England and Wales) and failure to comply with building regs may be unlawful.

It does not satisfy BS7671 (the wiring regs) but it is not illegal - the police will not be making arrests, there are very very few things that do not comply with regs that would be considered illegal. You have many options here - this is just a summer house feed - I assume not part of building works or anything, in which case you just want to make it safe. Undo it, route it through conduit, clip conduit to fence, re-connect. Replace with SWA Dig a trench and bury SWA. Here are the sections which pertain to your situation: 512.2 External influences 512.2.1 Equipment shall be of a design appropriate to the situation in which it is to be used or its mode of installation shall take account of the conditions likely to be encountered. 512.2.2 If the equipment does not, by its construction, have the characteristics relevant to the external influences of its location, it may nevertheless be used on condition that it is provided with appropriate additional protection in the erection of the installation. Such protection shall not adversely affect the operation of the equipment thus protected. 512.2.3 Where different external influences occur simultaneously, they may have independent or mutual effects and the degree of protection shall be provided accordingly. 512.2.4 The selection of equipment according to external influences is necessary not only for proper functioning, but also for the reliability of the measures of protection for safety complying with these Regulations generally. Measures of protection afforded by the construction of equipment are valid only for the given conditions of external influence if the corresponding equipment specification tests are made in these conditions of external influence. 522 SELECTION AND ERECTION OF WIRING SYSTEMS IN RELATION TO EXTERNAL INFLUENCES The installation method selected shall be such that protection against the expected external influences is provided in all appropriate parts of the wiring system. Particular care shall be taken at changes in direction and where wiring enters into equipment. NOTE: The external influences categorised in Appendix 5 which are of significance to wiring systems are included in this section. 522.1 Ambient temperature (AA) 522.1.1 A wiring system shall be selected and erected so as to be suitable for the highest and lowest local ambient temperatures and so that the limiting temperature in normal operation (see Table 52.1) and the limiting temperature in case of a fault (see Table 43.1) will not be exceeded. 522.1.2 Wiring system components, including cables and wiring accessories, shall only be installed or handled at temperatures within the limits stated in the relevant product specification or as given by the manufacturer. 522.2 External heat sources 522.2.1 In order to avoid the effects of heat from external sources, one or more of the following methods or an equally effective method shall be used to protect a wiring system: (i) Shielding (ii) Placing sufficiently far from the source of heat (iii) Selecting a system with due regard for the additional temperature rise which may occur (iv) Local reinforcement or substitution of insulating material. NOTE: Heat from external sources may be radiated, conducted or convected, e.g.: - from hot water systems - from plant, appliances and luminaires - from a manufacturing process - through heat conducting materials - from solar gain of the wiring system or its surrounding medium. 522.2.201 Parts of a cable within an accessory, appliance or luminaire shall be suitable for the temperatures likely to be encountered, as determined in accordance with Regulation 522.1.1, or shall be provided with additional insulation suitable for those temperatures. 522.3 Presence of water (AD) or high humidity (AB) 522.3.1 A wiring system shall be selected and erected so that no damage is caused by condensation or ingress of water during installation, use and maintenance. The completed wiring system shall comply with the IP degree of protection (see BS EN 60529) relevant to the particular location. NOTE: Special considerations apply to wiring systems liable to frequent splashing, immersion or submersion. 522.3.2 Where water may collect or condensation may form in a wiring system, provision shall be made for its escape. 522.3.3 Where a wiring system may be subjected to waves (AD6), protection against mechanical damage shall be afforded by one or more of the methods of Regulations 522.6 to 8. 139 522.4 Presence of solid foreign bodies (AE) 522.4.1 A wiring system shall be selected and erected so as to minimise the danger arising from the ingress of solid foreign bodies. The completed wiring system shall comply with the IP degree of protection (see BS EN 60529) relevant to the particular location. 522.4.2 In a location where dust in significant quantity is present (AE4), additional precautions shall be taken to prevent the accumulation of dust or other substances in quantities which could adversely affect heat dissipation from the wiring system. NOTE: A wiring system which facilitates the removal of dust may be necessary (see Section 529). 522.5 Presence of corrosive or polluting substances (AF) 522.5.1 Where the presence of corrosive or polluting substances, including water, is likely to give rise to corrosion or deterioration, parts of the wiring system likely to be affected shall be suitably protected or manufactured from a material resistant to such substances. NOTE: Suitable protection for application during erection may include protective tapes, paints or grease. 522.5.2 Dissimilar metals liable to initiate electrolytic action shall not be placed in contact with each other, unless special arrangements are made to avoid the consequences of such contact. 522.5.3 Materials liable to cause mutual or individual deterioration or hazardous degradation shall not be placed in contact with each other. 522.6 Impact (AG) 522.6.1 Wiring systems shall be selected and erected so as to minimise the damage arising from mechanical stress, e.g. by impact, abrasion, penetration, tension or compression during installation, use or maintenance. 522.6.2 In a fixed installation where impacts of medium severity (AG2) or high severity (AG3) can occur protection shall be afforded by: (i) the mechanical characteristics of the wiring system, or (ii) the location selected, or (iii) the provision of additional local or general protection against mechanical damage, or (iv) any combination of the above. NOTE: Examples are areas where the floor is likely to be penetrated and areas used by forklift trucks. 522.6.3 Not used 522.6.4 The degree of protection of electrical equipment shall be maintained after installation of the cables and conductors. 522.6.201 A cable installed under a floor or above a ceiling shall be run in such a position that it is not liable to be damaged by contact with the floor or ceiling or their fixings. A cable passing through a joist within a floor or ceiling construction or through a ceiling support (e.g. under floorboards), shall: (i) be installed at least 50 mm measured vertically from the top, or bottom as appropriate, of the joist or batten, or (ii) comply with Regulation 522.6.204. 522.6.202 A cable installed in a wall or partition at a depth of less than 50 mm from a surface of the wall or partition shall: (i) be installed in a zone within 150 mm from the top of the wall or partition or within 150 mm of an angle formed by two adjoining walls or partitions. Where the cable is connected to a point, accessory or switchgear on any surface of the wall or partition, the cable may be installed in a zone either horizontally or vertically, to the point, accessory or switchgear. Where the location of the accessory, point or switchgear can be determined from the reverse side, a zone formed on one side of a wall of 100 mm thickness or less or partition of 100 mm thickness or less extends to the reverse side, or (ii) comply with Regulation 522.6.204. Where indent (i) but not indent (ii) applies, the cable shall be provided with additional protection by means of an RCD having the characteristics specified in Regulation 415.1.1. 140 522.6.203 Irrespective of its buried depth, a cable concealed in a wall or partition, the internal construction of which includes metallic parts, other than metallic fixings such as nails, screws and the like, shall: (i) be provided with additional protection by means of an RCD having the characteristics specified in Regulation 415.1.1, or (ii) comply with Regulation 522.6.204. For a cable installed at a depth of less than 50 mm from the surface of a wall or partition the requirements of Regulation 522.6.202(i) shall also apply. 522.6.204 For the purposes of Regulation 522.6.201(ii), Regulation 522.6.202(ii) and Regulation 522.6.203(ii), a cable shall: (i) incorporate an earthed metallic covering which complies with the requirements of these Regulations for a protective conductor of the circuit concerned, the cable complying with BS 5467, BS 6724, BS 7846, BS 8436 or BS EN 60702-1, or (ii) be installed in earthed conduit complying with BS EN 61386-21 and satisfying the requirements of these Regulations for a protective conductor, or (iii) be enclosed in earthed trunking or ducting complying with BS EN 50085-2-1 and satisfying the requirements of these Regulations for a protective conductor, or (iv) be provided with mechanical protection against damage sufficient to prevent penetration of the cable by nails, screws and the like, or (v) form part of a SELV or PELV circuit meeting the requirements of Regulation 414.4. 522.7 Vibration (AH) 522.7.1 A wiring system supported by or fixed to a structure or equipment subject to vibration of medium severity (AH2) or high severity (AH3) shall be suitable for such conditions, particularly where cables and cable connections are concerned. 522.7.2 For the fixed installation of suspended current-using equipment, e.g. luminaries, connection shall be made by cable with flexible cores. Where no vibration or movement can be expected, cable with non-flexible cores may be used. 522.8 Other mechanical stresses (AJ) 522.8.1 A wiring system shall be selected and erected to avoid during installation, use or maintenance, damage to the sheath or insulation of cables and their terminations. The use of any lubricants that can have a detrimental effect on the cable or wiring system are not permitted. 522.8.2 Where buried in the structure, a conduit system or cable ducting system, other than a pre-wired conduit assembly specifically designed for the installation, shall be completely erected between access points before any cable is drawn in. 522.8.3 The radius of every bend in a wiring system shall be such that conductors or cables do not suffer damage and terminations are not stressed. 522.8.4 Where conductors or cables are not supported continuously due to the method of installation, they shall be supported by suitable means at appropriate intervals in such a manner that the conductors or cables do not suffer damage by their own weight. 522.8.5 Every cable or conductor shall be supported in such a way that it is not exposed to undue mechanical strain and so that there is no appreciable mechanical strain on the terminations of the conductors, account being taken of mechanical strain imposed by the supported weight of the cable or conductor itself. NOTE: Consumer unit meter tails are included in the requirements of this regulation. 522.8.6 A wiring system intended for the drawing in or out of conductors or cables shall have adequate means of access to allow this operation. 522.8.7 A wiring system buried in a floor shall be sufficiently protected to prevent damage caused by the intended use of the floor. 522.8.8 Not used 522.8.9 Not used 141 522.8.10 Except where installed in a conduit or duct which provides equivalent protection against mechanical damage, a cable buried in the ground shall incorporate an earthed armour or metal sheath or both, suitable for use as a protective conductor. The location of buried cables shall be marked by cable covers or a suitable marker tape. Buried conduits and ducts shall be suitably identified. Buried cables, conduits and ducts shall be at a sufficient depth to avoid being damaged by any reasonably foreseeable disturbance of the ground. NOTE: BS EN 61386-24 is the standard for underground conduits. 522.8.11 Cable supports and enclosures shall not have sharp edges liable to damage the wiring system. 522.8.12 A cable or conductors shall not be damaged by the means of fixing. 522.8.13 Cables, bus-bars and other electrical conductors which pass across expansion joints shall be so selected or erected that anticipated movement does not cause damage to the electrical equipment. 522.8.14 No wiring system shall penetrate an element of building construction which is intended to be load bearing unless the integrity of the load-bearing element can be assured after such penetration. 522.9Presenceofforaand/ormouldgrowth(AK) 522.9.1 Where the conditions experienced or expected constitute a hazard (AK2), the wiring system shall be selected accordingly or special protective measures shall be adopted. NOTE 1: An installation method which facilitates the removal of such growths may be necessary (see Section 529). NOTE 2: Possible preventive measures are closed types of installation (conduit or channel), maintaining distances to plants and regular cleaning of the relevant wiring system. 522.10 Presence of fauna (AL) 522.10.1 Where conditions experienced or expected constitute a hazard (AL2), the wiring system shall be selected accordingly or special protective measures shall be adopted, for example, by: (i) the mechanical characteristics of the wiring system, or (ii) the location selected, or (iii) the provision of additional local or general protection against mechanical damage, or (iv) any combination of the above. 522.11 Solar radiation (AN) and ultraviolet radiation 522.11.1 Where significant solar radiation (AN2) or ultraviolet radiation is experienced or expected, a wiring system suitable for the conditions shall be selected and erected or adequate shielding shall be provided. Special precautions may need to be taken for equipment subject to ionising radiation. NOTE: See also Regulation 522.2.1 dealing with temperature rise. 522.12 Seismic effects (AP) 522.12.1 The wiring system shall be selected and erected with due regard to the seismic hazards of the location of the installation. 522.12.2 Where the seismic hazards experienced are low severity (AP2) or higher, particular attention shall be paid to the following: (i) The fixing of wiring systems to the building structure (ii) The connections between the fixed wiring and all items of essential equipment, e.g. safety services, shall be selected for their flexible quality. 522.13 Movement of air (AR) 522.13.1 See Regulation 522.7, Vibration (AH), and Regulation 522.8, Other mechanical stresses (AJ). 522.14 Nature of processed or stored materials (BE) 522.14.1 See Section 527, Selection and erection of wiring systems to minimise the spread of fre and Section 422, Precautions where particular risks of fre exist. 522.15 Building design (CB) 522.15.1 Where risks due to structural movement exist (CB3), the cable support and protection system employed shall be capable of permitting relative movement so that conductors and cables are not subjected to excessive mechanical stress. 142 522.15.2 For a flexible structure or a structure intended to move (CB4), a flexible wiring system shall be used.

Not sure whether it is a useful distinction for you, but when Ts want to play with electrics in the garden (eg power for dog incubators, mower or an extra freezer) I tend to get my electrician properly to install a double socket with RCD externally to whatever the standard is for that, which will either come off a CU or a fused spur. So I do have the ability to turn it off in voids, and if necessary my trades can do things without need access to the house interior. It is now part of the standard spec, as usually is an outside tap. And then, whilst encourgaging T to be sensible, I stop my responsibility formally at that point. Ferdinand

I was in a similar situation when building my brewshed. I spoke to my BC officer about it, and because it was classified as an outbuilding and not habitable space, he didn't care about it and wouldn't fall under his remit. Just said it would be installed to the appropriate standard by a competent person. I ended up extending an existing RCD ring circuit from an external socket at the back of the house. Used armoured cable and buried under the deck and lawn out to the brewshed. Couple sockets and a fused spur for a 5a lighting circuit. All works well, no issues. My neighbour who's a spark okayed it.

I can very clearly remember my mother teaching me to wire a plug when I probably about 8 or 9 years old. "Always remember, "red on the right" and make sure the earth wire is longer than the others". I still think of it whenever I wire a plug up now, nearly 60 years later (and even though the colours are now different).

No sorry I don't like that. NO access to any of the terminals to perform any testing, so when something stops working, almost impossible to tell where the fault is. Stick with traditional terminals or wago's and do all you can to avoid inaccessible junctions. I prefer wiring lighting circuits "loop at switch" so all the junctions are accessible at a nice working height. You can use wago's or screw terminals in the back of a switch box.

What a wonderful opportunity to improve the world ?.

@pocster You need to leave that little list somewhere more prominent around your house The laser level is on its way Thanks for all the suggestions. I went for the De Walt DW088CG in the end. @Construction ChannelI will check out the notebooks. Talking of Howdens, though, are self builders classed as "trade" and so able to order kitchens and doors etc from them? We are very happy with the design and quality of our Howdens kitchen.

SWA is usually the easiest solution, as it provides mechanical protection and it's resistant to sunlight, so can just be clipped along a fence or wall without the need for anything other than adequate electrical protection. If you can ensure the run is adequately mechanically protected, then you could use NYY-J, which is very slightly easier to terminate, is rated for permanent outdoor use, but doesn't offer the degree of mechanical protection that SWA gives. You can opt to bury SWA directly, whereas NYY-J is only OK for burial if mechanically protected, so if opting to put this run underground then SWA is the sensible choice. There's not much in it price wise, I think. The important bit is to ensure that the cable and the installations that it supplies are adequately protected against overload and possible earth faults, and that the earthing at the installations is adequate. If this run of cable is quite long then I'd be inclined to look at running the installations in the shed/greenhouse from their own local earth rod and RCD, as TT installations. That avoids having to export the earth from the house supply and is often a safer option if the length of cable is quite long.

I strongly suspect that cable is too small for it's length for any significant load. Most DIIYers that install that sort of thing don't understand voltage drop, earth loop impedance and disconnection times. And I bet it has not been tested in any way.

France would be my guess.

I did a bit of a search a few years ago and did not find a suitable supplier. Seems common in the USA, my searches landed there and prices were keen.

You may want to hold on a couple of weeks as I have been running one of my Silly Sunday Experiment (actually 50 weeks so far) about the thermal properties of different masses, but identical volumes. The data will show what is happening, not looking good for added mass. I also have some house data from a new build, hardly any difference between the heated and unheated sections even though they have very different masses.

I’m a big convert to tilt and turn - think they are brilliant and really don’t see why they aren’t used more. In uPVC they have 3 seals anyway on the frames so wind and weather isn’t a problem. I think they also seem to seal better than a standard sash.

Ditto. Tilt is great, better from a security perspective and can leave open in rain. Nearly 3 years since install and no issues with seals. I would not expect seal issues, inward opening is common in cooler European climates.

I'll just leave this here:

or something that looks pretty like marshalls dry stacking walling --do it yourself in no time https://www.marshalls.co.uk/homeowners/view-croft-stone-garden-walling the layer above sits behind the lower layer so it locks together i have used it ,water drains out through the gaps as well so no worry about a tsunami of mud

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I've ordered a couple of metres of slightly thicker fibre, 2mm diameter, and I reckon I can make up a support using a bit of plastic sheet fixed to the top of the relays with double sided tape, then run the fibres out through the spare cable gland to some sort of indicator panel (maybe another bit of plastic sheet with the fibres glued into holes in it).

Search for MBC Timberframe. The cost of ground works varies enormously, depending on the nature of the plot, the terrain, and the soil conditions. For example, we had to dig out ~900 tonnes of soil to level our plot and get down to solid ground, at a cost of around £30k. On top of that there was the cost of bringing in an electricity supply and the cost of installing a sewage treatment plant and associated drains (no mains drainage here). Someone on poorer ground conditions than us could easily incur another £10k to £30k in foundation related work, such as piles. Someone on really good, level ground could get away with just scraping back the surface, perhaps, at a lot less cost. Without knowing what the ground conditions are like it's really hard to estimate cost, it could probably span anything from £5k to £50k.

I got a small scare at the ducting cost, it adds up! I have went down a similar route to dave. i bought a job lot 5x xpleiar mvhr units off fleebay for £900, with the plan of 2 in my parents and 2 installed in my build with 1 spare for parts later down the line. I started buying from BPC but changed to blauberg (trade account) as they where a good bit cheaper (50m roll of 75 mvhr ducting with anti static/coating £82 plus vat compared to £116 plus vat from bpc). The down side i will need to do my own ventilation calculations. 480m2 build ducting (decent spec ie stainless external vent plus silencers etc) came to approx £2000 inc vat.

Well it Looks like weve got a fixed deadline now. Better get a wiggle on hadn't I.

Copy the patented design? https://atkproducts.co.za/product/eezi-roll-tr5-toilet-roll-holder/