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OMG ....Time to lock away your wife/girlfriend/lover. It’s Kevin the fertility god. Have you noticed that whenever he’s arround someone gets pregnant ?

That was clearly her devious side coming out then . She either would have ended up pregnant or you would have finished by now so as not to lose face!

We are talking about tiling aren't we?

‘... I know two magic tricks, elephant and windmill....’

Somewhat extensive explanation on Restrictive Covenants by Gary Baker QC is at the link below. http://www.pla.org.uk/images/uploads/library_documents/Gary_Blaker_notes.pdf He calls it the "Briefest of Overviews" thusly: "3. This is only the briefest of overviews of the law relating to restrictive covenants relating to freehold land. It is not in any way intended to provide all the answers, in some places there are more questions than answers." Wordcounter.net says it is 13,925 words. Enjoy. I applaud the distinguished Mr Baker for making his authoritative notes available, however... ☺️

Crack on and do the job as you’ve started - take comfort in the fact I’ve seen professionals do worse ...

‘He’ was in this version too. See them together, and I’d still go for Aidan out of the 2! ?

If the insulation is likely to sag I’m left wondering if the question should be, “am I using the correct insulation?”

and we have a date for the TF. Due on site w/c 29/10.

Yes you can buy it on rolls from any reputable wallpaper emporium.

Must be all that cosying up in a cold caravan. Thank God I had a rental flat ?.

Are women that devious?

I’m not ashamed to say my kitchen will be ex display.

Why not just close one valve? This assumes this is not a 'bypass' radiator. Water expands by about 3.5% over the range 20°C/70°C https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/volumetric-temperature-expansion-d_315.html Edit - forget this 'idea' Or leave enough air in radiator to absorb this without significant pressure increase, assuming this does not affect thermosyphon/circulation within radiator.

But the camera would pan round for the scenic shot and you are standing back all proud as punch in your birthday suit with one foot on your ground windows giving it the full Kay's catalogue pose. I reckon that would be a grand designs first.

Bump, anyone? Cheers

I thought about going on grand design . But you don’t get paid and Kevin Mccloud coming back and saying “It’s been 15 years and he’s still not finished “ would cause me to place a hammer in his irritating cranium .

But nor will they have approved the revised plans either if they ‘lost’ them surely? I’m not defending the council but surely you don’t go ahead with any radical changes without getting the necessary approvals? Might only have heard half the story though. But the ‘not in keeping’ argument again. There has to be some movement towards more modern designs being accepted surely or we will just keep creating the same thing over and over, from decades or even centuries ago.

This is where I get my ducting. This guide of theirs may be of interest: https://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/guides-and-tips/ducting/guides-and-reviews/top-tips-for-using-underground-ducting/ Should just add that some DNOs insist on red rather than black duct for "electricity", in Scotland in particular I believe.

Run in separate ducts I would.

That definitely isn't what I take from the headnote you quoted. Perhaps the case as a whole says more. I'm going to stop arguing now, as I think it's a bit of a moot point given that this part of the covenant clearly has no practical effect. My suspicion is that whoever drafted it just used standard language for such covenants, and didn't consider whether it could actually apply to this particular situation.

Thinking long term....... what happens when you sell? how do you identify yours from theirs in 10 years? maintenance laying at the same time...... how on earth can that be organised - four contracts, possibly several providers It makes too much sense to do it this way. I mean if wimmin rooled the world it would be done the sensible way, but they don't. Yet.

If you want really want concrete you will probably need to do beam and block or poured concrete as the hollowcore plank firms will not be interested in small footprint. Concrete will be more expensive and require more lifting equipment than timber. By the time you have space for services, finishes and ceiling it will probably be deeper than a timber floor. I would recommend an Easi-Joist type engineered metal webbed floor with 22mm Egger Protect chipboard. Specify that the maximum deflection must not exceed 8mm or 0.002 x span. You will more easily be able to incorporate services, including your MVHR, and ceilings are easy to fit. The floor supplier should be able to produce the design for you.

In relation to the roof; I took a tile (given to me by the roofing company) to the Planner's office. The documentation - if you can call it that - was scratched onto the sample tile with a blunt chisel - the addressee, his department, together with my details and handed it in to the receptionist at the LPA head office. I had a nice time wondering how he might file the slate in his filing system. In relation to the windows, I submitted a brochure with the relevant page marked with a Post It. All very high tech.

I think your arguments are generally sound, except that it's the benefited and burdened lands that need to be "reasonably close together", rather than the dwellings. I think it passes that test, but not all the others. Also, having read your comments above, I misinterpreted the covenant when I initially skim-read it. For the sake of others that might make the same mistake, all of the stuff up until "AND FURTHER" is actually protecting the right of the vendor to build other buildings that interfere with the light and air enjoyed by Jeremy's property by way of the "green land". The only rights that the green land enjoys are "such rights of light and air ... as they would be entitled to if the property hereby conveyed and the green land were in separate ownership and indefeasible rights of light and air as at present enjoyed in respect of the green land had been acquired under the Prescription Act 1832." If I interpret this clause correctly, then all it's saying is that the green land enjoys a specific, limited right to light and air only to the extent that it would have existed had the properties previously been owned separately at the time Jeremy's land was conveyed, and even then only to the extent that such rights would have been acquired under the Prescription Act 1832. In other words, I don't think you should even look at the current right to light laws to interpret this part of the covenant. For example, I don't think that common law rights are covered by this clause, unless they're referenced in the Prescription Act 1832. Since no dwelling on the green land appears to have had such benefit of light and air (although you might want to check out the "Prescription Act 1832" to be sure!) at the time of conveyance, I can't see that any such right can exist now.

That's my understanding from a previous debate we had, either here or on this forum's predecessor, where someone (almost certainly @Temp) found chapter and verse on the "right to light" legislation. Either way, I can't see how a house ~40m away from our boundary could possibly have a "right to light" with regard to land so far away, especially as there's a very big hedge on our boundary, on their side.

I think that right to light is a legally defined term for existing buildings. Specifically windows. So land in itself wouldn't have a right to light. You need a right to light surveyor with experience in such matters and probably a lawyer. Don't try and second guess it now with "expert" advice from the likes of myself :-)

My parish council supported my application (mostly local farmers that knew the site) only by not objecting!!. Don’t people get it that if small villages don’t expand and welcome new people they will die off, it’s no wonder pubs and local shops are going out of business. If I remember correctly government some years ago gave local councils more autonomy over local planning decisions. My fight for planning permission took two years and as the original house had burned down the site was an untidy tip for two years more than it needed to be.

Not exactly game set and match as you quote a single item as being a benefit and as @dpmiller says, to maintain reliability you need a honking big heat sink so your pretty SSR is now taking up the space for a single SSR that a 3 pole contactor would use ... ? As you blatantly ignored the logic level switching argument, the notion of using AC switching at load line level requires bridge rectification and other components within the SSR to enable the activation of the load which further adds to the MTBF reducing argument due to infrared component complexity .... Now where is the umpire ...??? @JSHarris..!!

I'd say that in the kit I work on (autoclaves, incubators) it doesn't matter whether it's SSR or electromechanical, they still fail. Also need to consider a chunk of space for the heatsink an SSR needs to make it reliable. At 13A non-inductive I'd go with a cheapo plugin relay and base though rather than a full-on contactor.

How about this RF one? They've a UK distributor: https://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/AirQuality/Humidity-TemperatureTransmitters/SeriesWHP

First point is moot as single pole switching in a central heating system is always either upsteam or downstream of suitable means of double pole ( dedicated ) isolation. Your precious contactor will, in normal service, be fed by a single pole MCB and not even that will be seen as routine isolation as a well designed system will not see you going into the fuse board to isolate for servicing. MCB are fault devices NOT isolators. Most MIs will call for such equipment to have “a means of LOCAL double pole isolation with a contact separation of at least 3mm” so the solid state relay would first be fed from either a 13a DP fused spur or a 20a DP switch which would be identified as the equipments means of local isolation. Are you saying a SS relay wouldn’t do the job? Without the clunk? A brief tutorial and please see the section on Solid State Relay Output Circuit where the primary example scenario is based on switching heating loads. Game, set and match.....”New balls please” ?

I would think twice about that bomher one, quick check online for parts are none existent (been there got the t-shirt with petrol strimmer with a very german sounding name) Makita could be a good option and should hold its value as makita is a familiar brand. Also have a look at pramac they use Honda engines and good Italian genneys, its what my local i independent plant rent & sale they are also a big makita agent. They are not a million miles away in price to what you are looking at. We rigged our genny on to a little skateboard for pushing it around site and left the skate board next to where we parked the van.

Short of winning the Lotto and being able to give up work to do the house without compromise then yes I'm going to live with it. I've more projects here than years left on this Earth tbh.

@Nickfromwales Solid state failure (esp Chinese cr@p) will fail unseen and has no physical indication of either failure or actuation. They are also single pole and leave the neutral in place so cannot be deemed to completely isolate the circuit. Given it’s likely that these will change over at significantly low frequency, the need to use an SSR that is designed for high speed and high frequency changeover, usually driven at logic level, then the argument for using them is drastically diminished .... your turn .... ?

When I did something very similar on my old workman’s cottage ten years ago, the problem I had was to make the ‘loose’ end of the banisters strong enough to be leaned on. The problem was that just attachment to the floor was not adequate, and tbh I did not know how to do it properly so I improvised. I created a floor to ceiling composite newel post, then filled in with a banister and decking, all from inexpensive sources. The newel was bolted or screwed to joists above and below, half over the hole and half over the floor to both attach to the joists and support the banister. I have attached a sketch and detail below that you are welcome to steal from. The components were: - 2x4 PSE timber, varnished. - Wickes DeckRail insert https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Straight-Deck-Rail-Insert---Black-914-x-270mm/p/154466 - Banister handrail like this but hardwood (decking handrails were too rough) https://stairpartsdirect.co.uk/range/handrail-with-infill-70-x-50mm/ Total cost Then was well under £80 iirc. It has been rented out since then and remains solid. Not especially elegant but it is a 1850 farm cottage that was just built cheaply so solid and practical is in keeping. ferdinand

You want to move te one upstairs not the downstairs one, as at present the ensuite loo is positioned to wake up the people in the other bedroom. Ideally it would be on one of the side walls. To make your ensuites feel bigger get a bigger shower ... even say 1m or 1.2m x 900 feels much more spacious than say 800x800. Ferdinand

Yes I ended up using the dishwasher all the time, it was a granite work surface and was forever needing polished with splashes , just not practical

I’m thinking more like this. Sirry for terrible sketching. tweak the wiw wall to the landing a bit too

Well the quote for our Leicht kitchen is in, £27,000. Remind me, what was Plan B.........

Christ some people need to get a life.

Not at all. I live on a cul de sac and all the other neighbours (3) objected on exactly those grounds. That there would be mess on the road and that during the build their access would be restricted at times. Thrown out as being not relevant to planning. Which was reiterated many many times during the build phase when they kept phoning the council to complain. However, 10 months later they *the neighbours* are still being 'stupid'. During the very heavy rain last week the drain, which prevents water running onto their drive was not draining. This drain has been cleaned by the council since the main building activity was finished but since then the electricity board has dug it up twice. The 2 most difficult neighbours spent some time clearing it. (I have sympathy for this but there is nothing I could have done to prevent it). Everything they removed from the drain was dumped on my drive. (I don't have an issue with this and am quite happy to dispose of it). However I'm not sure they realise that from my lounge I can see them looking and pointing. I had my kitchen delivered today. None of the neighbours (vehicles) were in. One came back about 5 minutes before the delivery ended. He left his car in the road blocking the delivery vehicle. Luckily his neighbour in crime wasn't home, so when the van needed to leave he meekly removed his car, without objection. However, had the other, more belligerent, guy have been home there would have been a stupid standoff. Which I would have left them to sort out with the deliverers as, it appears, me being there only inflates the situation and these drivers were professionals - unlike my original builders who inflamed the situation. 2 out of 3 of these neighbours had no objections when I spoke to them originally (didn't have the opportunity to talk to the 3rd) but, talking amongst themselves afterwards, built up resentment. Don't expect people to be reasonable, but try to build on it when they are, really try to get them onside when you get the opportunity to do so. AND at least until the build is finished, bite your tongue when they are being arseholes less than than agreeable.