Tyke2

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About Tyke2

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  • About Me
    Looking for second self build plot. First one was 18 years ago - a grade 2 listed barn conversion.
    Worked in development companies, so I have a bit of knowledge on traditional house building.
  • Location
    Barnsley. Close to M1 J36.

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  1. I think that right to light is a legally defined term for existing buildings. Specifically windows. So land in itself wouldn't have a right to light. You need a right to light surveyor with experience in such matters and probably a lawyer. Don't try and second guess it now with "expert" advice from the likes of myself :-)
  2. Tyke2

    Getting the neighbours on side...

    If it gets refused, despite having officers recommendation for approval, the council have little or no chance of winning an appeal.
  3. Tyke2

    Getting the neighbours on side...

    Any objection has to have a valid planning reason to be taken into account. As said before, the planning officer should have taken all into account anyway. If it goes to committee and a councillor with some clout gets nobbled by enough objectors, they could refuse. But you would win on appeal. From experience - I had an application refused at committee despite it having officers recommendation for approval. The planning officer asked the committee to give him the reason for refusal to record the decision. the councillor replied "Just put - Too silly". The officer obviously didn't record it this way. When we appealed, the councils written representation extended to just two sides of A4. Ours was 200 pages. We won the appeal.
  4. Tyke2

    Footings for second storey on a bungalow

    Any column would need to be supported, either from the existing footing or a new specialist pad to support the new column. Or if adding extra load to the existing structure a structural survey would need doing. But unless its on filled ground or piled, I would think that the foundation used for a bungalow would support a second storey. In any case you really need to know what's down there.
  5. Tyke2

    Wayleaves etc., Part 2

    If the wayleave is voluntary and there is provision to terminate this agreement and serve notice for them to remove the over sailing equipment, why don't you just serve notice? If they then apply for a compulsory deed etc, they will have to compensate you for loss of value of your property and pay your reasonable fees I would have thought. @Ferdinand is wholly correct in my view. The professionals including your lawyer when you bought the property, and architect should have identified the obstructions and advised you accordingly. I had a similar situation with powergen a few years ago on a site, There was an easement for overhead lines 33kv if I remember correctly. Usually they have you over a barrel and you have to pay the costs of diverting them. But on this occasion the legal agreement had a lift and shift clause, where on notice, they had 3 months to remove them from the site. Straight away Powergen advised us that it would cost us £250k and take 12 months, until I produced the legal agreement. They said it was impossible due to their network agreements etc to divert them in 3 months. I just pointed them to the agreement and advised them to begin working up a compensation package for our losses. They started treating us with a little more respect then.
  6. There’s many reasons why a developer has covenants in the deeds to curtail homeowners builoing things. Such as to stop you building things too close to sewers and stopping them from being adopted. When all the plots are sold and roads and sewers adopted, they have zero interest in being involved. I was the person with the job of issuing such approval. Sometimes I would get a call from the owner of a 20 year old house insisting that we stop a neighbor building a rabbit hutch etc: Definitely not interested!
  7. I’m thinking more like this. Sirry for terrible sketching. tweak the wiw wall to the landing a bit too
  8. Looking completely out of the box - Could you perhaps move the ensuite sanitary ware to the space behind the bed. The space could even be a bit wider looking at where the foot of the bed is. I have seen similar without even doors on (not my choice but each to their own) The walk in wardrobe could then be twice as big or a combined WiW and dressing room.
  9. I have been reading loads of threads regarding everyone's multi faceted heating / hot water systems. One thing I haven't really seen, despite looking, is a common thread on how the systems are managed. If you have UFH, Sunamp, PV, ASHP,MHVR etc. how are these managed together? Are there proven Building Management Systems for domestic use? or is it more keep tweaking until they are balanced? and rebalance each seasonal change? I know in commercial buildings that BMS is common place, and that designing and setting these up is an expensive and complicated matter.
  10. Price wise. I don't know. Its just what the cost calculators for self build finance seems to produce. I assume its a new build garage. but if you extend the existing one , the costs will vary. 1) -One less gable to build. 2)+ Insulate existing gable. Build all the new walls in double skin brickwork plus insulation. 3) +build floor to building regs of a habitable room, i.e. insulate floors. 4) + cost of heating, toilets etc. 5) + internal finishes So I would imagine the costs will increase over that of a double garage. If I was you I would look for a local person who can draw up some sketch plans, the local paper etc normally has someone advertising plans drawn for extensions etc, and have 3 builders price it. Unless of course you intend building yourself.
  11. Its because they are operating a production line of a standard product. They would need to divert resource to making a bespoke item for little or no benefit to themselves. Look at it like if you went to Nestle and said " you're making five finger Kit Kats on that production line. Can you make me a six finger one, and a bit shorter than the others please"
  12. Speaking from a developers point of view - They would not touch it. They are in it for a quick in and out of the development. If you want something bespoke you need to do a self build. They might let you buy the materials through them. But if not they will surely let you know the exact manufacturer and type of brick, tile and maybe mortar if its coloured? If not just look on site at the brick and tile packs, it will say on the side what they are. The PD rights are in this doc :-https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/606669/170405_Householder_Technical_Guidance__-April_2017_FINAL.pdf Looking at the costs that some websites state for a double garage , they quote around £18k to £23k. This sounds a lot to me. You need to check what the foundations are on site also. Hopefully its a standard strip footing. If its raft or piled you will quickly increase your costs.
  13. Tyke2

    Staircase measurements - how accurate?

    It depends on how it arrives from the manufacturer. Mine came with tread/riser stair assembly all in one piece, all balustrade, and all other bits loose. I needed a joiner. To fit altogether along with internal balcony balustrade took a full day.
  14. Tyke2

    Group Project

    Hi Gudji Good luck in your ambitions for a group build. I think getting a group of people to agree everything necessary to buy a piece of land, get the finance together etc will be pretty much impossible. Its difficult enough when you can make your own decisions and act quickly.
  15. Tyke2

    Staircase measurements - how accurate?

    @PeterW is correct. Its one of the things that keeps me awake at night, contemplating the section through the stairs.. You need to know if the downstairs floor covering, carpet, timber ect is to go under the stairs or around the base and seat the stairs on the floor slab. Also what is the floor covering at first floor. Take the measurement with the builder. i.e. measure from whatever you are seating the stars on to wherever the top of the stairs will be. if its carpet, then I would think you need ground floor slab to top of first floor timber. make sure you and the builder are ok with what you measure and give this to the stair manufacturer to work to. Easy!