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Hi Just wondering if repairs done by British Gas to my combi boiler come with a guarantee? Had it serviced under contract and some parts replaced 4 weeks ago but gradually the old problem of no hot water downstairs has returned. We were told at the time it was probably a diverter valve problem which the engineer replaced. Central heating upstairs and downstairs is fine but sink and shower hot water has recently become very slow to heat and often goes cold after a minute or two. The system pressure is down to below the safe minimum level today so we had to turn it off. I haven't noticed any leaks anywhere. A British Gas engineer is booked to come tomorrow and as there's an excess to pay on repairs with our service cover I'm wondering if it's likely that they will waive it because of the previous repairs not having been successful? All thoughts welcome. Thanks David

Hi everyone, I've recently purchased a new build which has a monocouche exterior. Monocouche feels quite crumbly and although it's super solid all around, close to joints or corners a few bits seem to have fallen off. I've attached a couple of photos of some areas, but I'd like to know if there is any way to patch these holes? If so, what material would you recommend? Thanks!

Been a builder for near on 40 years and done a little bit of everything over the years. Lived around the world a bit, from various countries in East Africa to New Zealand, and now pretty settled in Norway. Favourite work is the restoration of old brickwork using lime mortars, oh and fixing stuff, from cars to boats and everything in between. Was a silver trowel awarded bricklayer at college many moons ago. Love helping folks sort out their stuff, be it repairs, restorations or improvements.

We recently bought a small timber frame bungalow, which requires some repairs to the exterior render, as there is damaged to the section where the plinth meets the wall, I have attached pictures of the area. Unfortunately, so far we could not find anyone, who could offer use an explanation or solution to the problem. As seen on the picture attached the grey tape (which seems to be some sort of flashing tape) is broken and coming off on several areas around the house, exposing the metal edge guards and allowing cold and moisture into the walls, as on the interior the skirting boards are cold and when furniture are places directly on the wall causing condensation and mould. ( as a short term solution, We have now left a minimum of 10 cm between the furniture and the walls, which seem to solve the problem of sweating skirting boards and mould). Q1: Does anyone recognise what this exterior gab between the plinth and the wall is for?! is it just decorative or does it serve any purpose, like breathing of frame or expansion gab? Q2: can this gab be closed and the house completely covered with an additional layer of acrylic render? Q3: if the gab needs to be kept, how can we repair the damage? Any help and advice is greatly appreciated! PS: As far as we can tell the house is built up of the following layers, starting on the inside: plasterboard, yellow insulation wool, OSB board, insulation board, acrylic render with embedded mesh and sits on a concrete foundation.

Hi, I am planning a project to make a concrete shed into a live-able room. The walls are made of concrete and the roof is made of wood, I plan on insulating the roof but I'm not sure weather I need to insulate the concrete walls or just the concrete will be enough to keep it warm all year round. I've never done a project like this so if anyone has any pointers or ideas that would be great! Thanks!

I've been avoiding this for about 2 years. Admitting the cock-up, that is. There's nowt for it now, it's long past the time to do something about it. Here's a description of the problem and a suggested strategy for sorting it out. Look at this mess. @TerryE warned me years ago - change your mind just in time, not just too late. Trick is, knowing when ' too late ' is. We got the position of the loo window wrong. The shower head would be just next to the window. Stoopid or wot? Nay borra Jimmie , said the Durisol guy, You can move the window - easy. Out with the stone saw, whisked the front of the Durisol blocks off before I could say ' FFS stop will ya? ' Cue gritted teeth, rictus grin, self control and murder in my heart. And lots of displacement activity. Two whole years later, I've cooked up enough courage to repair it. Question is how? First, make yourself a work platform and a closer look at the mess..... The concrete hasn't been compromised. All that's needed then is a quick clear up, and a think. Cue another sleepless night..... What do you think I should do?

Being a responsible builder, I installed our eyewash station in the most used room of the house - the kitchen. Right where everyone can grab it easily and quickly. Put it up, right pleased with myself, until Debbie asked why the kitchen lights weren't working anymore? I've put a screw right through a cable buried in the wall haven't I? Right here..... The right hand screw is the culprit. The mood-o-meter says it all. To repair it, I need to isolate the circuit, prove that it is is dead ( a la John Ward) Dig the cable out, and find the break Then what? Help please....... I know less than anyone in the world about electrics. Thanks Ian

I got some inspiration from you all....... I bought another container yay! Trouble is it's a bit rusty in parts. So, scorched by the heat of my own brilliance at welding , I got the grinder out and had a happy half hour getting this far.. Now even I know that ain't good enough, level enough, bright enough, so I chickened out I am deeply ashamed and am off to the pub early to drown my sorrows and incompetence. Thing is, do I cut a piece out, and then weld over the top? Or do I just grind away until there's enough bright metal to which to weld (I'm stick welding)? Please tell me foam will be fine. Have a productive weekend. Ian