ProDave
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Everything posted by ProDave
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Well if you do use the same builder, keep a VERY close eye on them. I don't know what it is with builders and steel beams, but on a new build I wired last year, the builders put two steels in the wrong way round, meaning most of the holes that had helpfully been drilled in them went nowhere, and me and the plumber were fighting over space in the only 2 holes that were of any use.
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It would probably be wise when purchasing the plot(s) to get the title split into two at that time so you each buy half the total area (or however you wish to split the plot) since you will be employing solicitors, so there is no confusion that you are both self builders each building one house for yourself on your own plot. The fact you are related and the plots are next door is then irrelevant.
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Building the Dream s6e4 - Are they exaggerating the profits?
ProDave replied to AliG's topic in Property TV Programmes
And add in the cost of changing the owners first choice of light fitting, for their second choice when they find they don't like the first one (after you have fitted them of course). That's why I only do estimates, not fixed prices.... -
I presume the existing planning is for conversion of the existing barn? To replace it with a new build would require a new planning application. If the barn is not listed and the new build is a similar footprint and design to the barn, then the chances of getting planning are probably good. I know someone up here who bought a stone barn for conversion, but found the existing structure was in poor condition so he got planning to replace it with new following the same outline. He built with timber frame and clad the outside in the original stone.
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Hi and welcome to the forum. Another one here advising to get a drainage solution agreed first. This caused us several weeks of worry when building control rejected what I thought wa a workable drainage system, and for several weeks we had no solution = no building warrant, until a compromise was agreed. Is it a listed barn? If not, a complete new build (probably keeping the look and feel of the original barn) would probably be the better option?
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I would be having very serious words with your builder, to the point I would stop all further work until this is sorted. Those packers are wrong, they have to be changed. At the left hand end it has been designed to sit on a stack of 6 uprights to support it, but because the timber and the steel beam are too short, only 4 of the uprights are taking the load. The builders should have realised this was wrong when they came to put the first steel in, but they have swept it under the carpet hoping nobody will realise. If they don't offer a solution at their cost I would tell them I will be getting the building inspector to look at it and let him say what needs to be done, then they will have to do it. I would definitely want the SE to look at it and propose a solution.
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That's not what I call "precision" work there. For a start the timber the beam is sat on is too short and the beam is too short. And what's that blob of cement for? I would have preferred the packer to have been re made the right thickness. Can we have a more general zoomed out shout? Has this only just been done?
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I don't understand the need for the extra wall plates? Our present house has UFH upstairs on conventional solid joists. 9mm OSB to support UFH pipes, 25 by 50mm battens then whatever floor you were going to have anyway. Nothing complicated or particularly expensive at all. And yes why so much insulation between floors? Less insulation and the saving more than pas for the extra floor make up.
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What's wrong with a single pane of glass for a Front door? We chose frosted glass for ours. The "letterbox" issue has been solved. I was given a good condition Swededoor by our neighbour, so that is now the pedestrian door into the garage, complete with letterbox. That is where the postie will be directed to.
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I know my browser is old and does not always show pages properly, but I can't see what the price is?
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I had a go in my BIL's 13 ton Komatsu on our trip down under a few years back.
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It's a regional thing. when I was in the South, Timber Frame had a bad name, because some mass builders built some shockingly bad TF houses. Then I moved to Scotland. TF is the normal construction method up here, they have been doing it for decades and know how to do it. Everything fits properly, and nothing rots. Granted over the years insulation has improved. I have encountered older TF houses with a 4" frame and no insulation. It wa about 15 years ago that they moved up to 6" frames being normal to fit more insulation in.
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Fun, and satisfying isn't it.
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I set out to build the best house I could for the money I had available (and yes not having unlimited funds probably forced a compromise) I did try to get a quote from MBC for their twin wall system, but that never happened. I documented my search for a builder at the time on the other place. I also looked at Touchwood (too expensive) and Beatie Passive (too big up front costs for the design). So I ended up with the best I could find which was a local designer and a different local builder to build it. One of my "design briefs" was I did not want a cavity and rendered blockwork skin. That is just an expensive rain shield adding virtually nothing to the insulation. That's when I was offered the wood fibre and render option which seemed to tick all the boxes. Yes I would have preferred that wood fibre and render finish on a twin stud frame, but that just wasn't to be I am afraid.
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Interesting. Our present house has a constructional hearth (it didn't need it) and one of my design "features" was I didn't want a raised hearth, so the finished, tiled surface of the hearth is dead flush with the surrounding wooden floor. BC never raised any issue with that.
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Is that you in your own digger?
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Looking for a small site office
ProDave replied to Ferdinand's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Look for a portakabin type building. I connected the electric to one that would have suited you perfectly, insulated and lined, windows, electrics, and a small kitchenette across one end. -
Thermal mixer bath filler? I've seen them in hotels so they exist. BUT the flow rate from them was disappointingly slow.
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Several points. You should be able to get 3KW of panels and the inverter for about £2000 then you need the in roof kit. that will yield about 2250KWh per year. IF (and it's a big if) you can use all that yourself, then you will save roughly £330 per year on electricity, so loking ab about a 10 year payback. It all depends on your lifestyle.If you are in during the day and can use what you generate (washing machine etc in the peak daytime) then it might be worthwhile. I am thinking along these lines, but split E/S/W to get a lower, but more consistent and probably more "self usable" generation throughout the day. And I will be considering battery storage to ensure I self use as much as possible.
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As I understand it, if the stove manufacturer states it only needs a 12mm hearth, that is all you need to provide. I see plenty installed on just a slab of stone sitting on the wooden floor.
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Electric shower vs. instant water heater
ProDave replied to Crofter's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
I'm surprised the limestone is as far north as Assynt, the limestone borehole I was referring to is still in Ross-Shire, not even quite in Sutherland. Been to Smoo cave. Of course Fingals cave on Staffa is worth a look (and the boat trip to get to it) did that last year while on Mull. Back to the topic. Just about everything has to be tested and certified for rental, but I have never actually heard of anyone asking for a certificate for UVC's in rental properties. Keep quiet or I am sure someone will introduce one. -
Electric shower vs. instant water heater
ProDave replied to Crofter's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Interesting. This part of Scotland is not exactly well known for it's caving, but where there is limestone.... Just curious to know the entry points to the caves (not that I am intending to go exploring) -
Electric shower vs. instant water heater
ProDave replied to Crofter's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
The brown tinge in Scottish water is almost certainly peat. Our water comes from Loch Glass, about 6 miles away. when we first moved here when it was windy, our water would turn slightly brown. It was described to me as the water outake from the loch was quite low, and in windy weather, the waves stirred up the silt. About 5 years ago they built an upgraded treatment works and no more brown water. No chlorine or other stuff either. It is very common for isolated houses wiith private water supplies still to have often VERY brown water. As Crofter says, there's a limestone band all across the top of Scotland. A small isolated group of 5 houses 10 miles from us share a common borehole into that limestone aquifer. I have replaced one of their immersion heaters every 5 years. and when I do so, I spoon a good bucket full of limestone out of the bottom of the HW tank. -
That won't cut the mustard with SWMBO, it has to be a proper 3G unit with the stained glass bit in the middle.
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There's only one glazing company up here that can do it (and even then I have not looked into any detail with them) but I am not necessarilly happy with their product (largely because we had two 2G panes replaced by them ant their performance is abysmal) I would have to be a lot more clear about our requirements if we used them again. Other than that I can only find "artists" who want to make a bespoke unit at a bespoke price.