ProDave

Building control were happy with me not continuing the foundations under the garage door opening. They did mention if ever I converted it I would have to dig up that bit of floor and pour foundations but I am 100% sure I will never want to do that.

I think it was a D5 I drove down under, but I can't find a picture of it. Yes that's it, two brakes and two clutches, to turn left, you pull on the lever to brake the left hand track.

This is me on a "proper" roller. At my BIL's farm in Queensland a few years ago. That re defines the meaning of "shake rattle and roll" It was the most weird thing to drive. It was basically controlled with a hand throttle (that kept adjusting itself) with a decelerator peddle if you want to slow down. Mind it was nowhere near as weird to drive as the buldozer......

Hi and welcome to the forum. It sounds s very interesting project. Why not start a blog here to document your progress? Glad you found us in our new home.

Was this a ride on roller? I thought you were talking about a push along.

Where's the "this thread is useless without pictures" icon?

Whatever make you choose, definitely go for the cross line type. It will get your downlighters in a straight line and all sorts of other useful things. The rotary one is a one trick pony, it will give you a horizontal line all the way round, but ONLY a horizontal line.

The buttress just confirms it is a single skin wall and you need those in single skin walls to add a bit of strength. I like the lifting beam and crane. you can do your own engine swap (if the car will fit) 2.6 metre internal width is small, and by the time you have built a proper wall upstairs, won't leave much width in the room.

I used a dewalt laser level for all my setting out. Even outdoors (at dusk). Mine is a laser line level so as well as projecting a horizontal lint, it will also project a vertical line. Damn handy bit of kit.

That sounds remarkably like the description of a static caravan. Well apart from the low impact materials bit.

All looking good. That's a man sized digger he has got there, that should make short work of it.

I have to say I am totally underwhelmed by the "quality" of standard UK meter boxes. My main gripe being just how fragile the hinges are, and how easy they are to break if you don't treat them very gently. Letting in water does not surprise me in the least, that's what I would expect from such a "quality" design. Any electrician designing stuff to live outside permanently will use a decent IP rated sealed enclosure. Yet for out mains distribution kit, this excuse for an outside electrical enclosure is what we are stuck with. (I wonder how the DNO would react if you offered them a proper sealed IP rated enclosure but not to their "standard" design) In my case the meter boxes are in a section of "fence" so if water gets in, it can run out of drain holes at the bottom with no harm really done. Not so easy when it's built into a brick wall.

I was going to say I like a house with a garage and think converting it would be a bad move. But if you struggle to open the door of a MINI then it must be a pretty small garage!!!

I see, so in an official test, the fan speed is controlled in a closed loop system to maintain the pressure differential, and the amount of power needed to maintain that measured the air tightness.

Highlands, near Inverness. 2KW system, been in use 5 years. Total so far 7565KWh, so an average of 1513KWh per year. So your 3340 for 4KW being further south sounds about right.

I will answer your question, partly by referring to your REAL question, how to build your next house. I know someone who built his own house single handed stick built on site. He worked offshore and spent his 3 weeks between shifts building his house. I know the house well because I wired it. It took him nearly 3 years to get it wind and watertight, and I believe there were issues with his structural warranty company due to the length of time the frame was exposed. My present house was TF but built as a kit and assembled on site, normal (for the time) 150mm frame and block outer skin. This time around I didn't want to go that route. 150mm is not enough insulation, and the block wall is just an expensive rain shield adding little to the insulation. So this time I have a 190mm frame directly clad in 100mm wood fibre board and render onto that. So all 300mm of the wall build up is insulation of some form. this was detailed by a structural engineer. I then had the frame built (off site) and erected by some local builders and I am doing the rest. There is no reason given the time and inclination that I could not have stick built it on site myself and with the SE's drawings there would have been no "sign off" issues. If I could give two bits of advice (just my personal feeling) is forget a brick of block outer skin to a TF house. And make the roof a warm roof supported on a ridge beam so the whole internal space including any loft is within the insulated and air tight structure of the house. So much easier to keep everything sealed and less chance for things to go wrong.

I have been pondering this. I believe I have a large mains powered fan on the way (15" diameter fan) so you can run the fan and measure the pressure difference between inside and out. BUT there is a "missing link" to actually measure the leakage. In a perfect house, once a certain pressure difference is achieved, there will be no air flow through the fan? is that right? So to measure leakage into the house you must measure the air flow exiting through the fan. Anemometer? or will the flow be to low for that? without that measurement, yes you can suck air out and go looking for obvious leaks, but you have no measure of how good it is.

You are not supposed to ventilate the service void, at least not to a room above or a floor void, there are supposed to be fire stop battens in place,

What size twin wall did you end up with? and what do the manufacturers say about "distance to a flamable material" I find I have a potentially "tight" situation that where I want to put the twin wall through the roof, I have only just over 400mm between joists. I have seen twin will with a 150mm flue and overall diameter 200mm so that would do as long as the manufacturer states 100mm or less to flamable material. for some odd reason everywhere I look, everyone advises against 4" (100mm?) twin wall, I would have thought that would have been plenty for this little stove but everyone says not to use it.

Hi and welcome to the forum. "the planned house is too large for our needs really but maximises the use of the 1/4 acre plot" Well build a smaller house that suits your needs, perhaps designing it so it could be easily extended later if you need more space. We are building a modest 3 bedroom house on a plot nearly 1/3 of an acre. I don't feel I am under usilising the plot in any way, it is the house that suits our needs.

Nope, not there. I'm using a wmdows pc and Opera browser. What are you using? does the link only appear on a tablet? on the mobile version of the site?

I would seriously try hacking back that render to just above DPC level (assuming you do have a DPC?) I'll bet it drastically improves your damp issued.

Most people put a slab of stone up the wall which looks really nice and is probably what we will do. I take it you don't want that just want a cheaper option that can be painted and look just like any other bit of the wall?

I must be viewing a different page to the rest of you (I followed the links) I don't see that button that Steamy has. All I see part way down the page is this:

If I am expecting a signed for parcel when I am out, I leave a note on the door telling the delivery man where to leave it (currently the unlocked pedestrian door into the garage) and they take that note as a "signature" and leave the parcel.