Roundtuit

Great post, and full marks for effort! As an alternative to mortar I took a punt on a jointing compound for ours (Joint-it) as I didn't trust myself to do a decent job and keep the sandstone clean. Not cheap, but quick and pain-free; 25 sq m done in a couple of hours.

Not really, sorry! I'd always try trapping in the first instance; cheap, quick and with visible results (or not), and no risk of secondary poisoning non-target wildlife. Each to their own of course, but why do you want a video of a rat?

There's no drain on my exhaust duct, and I don't recall any requirement in the installation manual. I'd be hoping the exhaust air is pretty cool, and that the airflow would keep it dry.

I used aco galvanised slot drains in front of bifolds leading on to the patio (only a ~4m run), 1 brick below dpc. I ran a bead of sealant between the slot and the brickwork afterwards to stop surface water going down between. Seems to do the job.

Good point; we've got loads of down lights with gu10 bulbs. Having bulbs rather than fixed units let's you vary the colour temperature and brightness around the house quite easily, and change it if you're not happy. Also, 3.5 years in and not had the replace a bulb yet.?

PIR sensor switch for downstairs loo. No more grotty pullcord!

I'm guessing that the beading is there to cover a gap between skirting and floorboard. Personally, I'd have taken it off and filled the gap first, then the carpet could have been fitted neatly at the edges. Not sure you can really blame the fitter for that. The two-tone stuff looks like a join, maybe with the pile running the wrong way. If they had to put a join in, they really should have made you aware.

As above. I'd have a look on some old maps perhaps, to see if you used to have two next door neighbours rather than one. 'Render for a reason' were my builders words of wisdom when we did a renovation job. If the brickwork was all in decent order, it's unlikely anyone would go to the expense of rendering it. If the render is coming off anyway, you can make the call when you see what's left behind. The bit you've taken off looks like it was just done for continuity between gable end and garden wall tbh.

The IDB didn't manage our dyke either, but we still needed their permission. I'd ask them if you haven't already - if they're not interested, they might be able to point you in the right direction. BC had no interest once the IDB had ok'd it. Don't know about the EA, but pretty sure they were not involved in our case.

I don't see why you shouldn't; if its at your boundary, unless you know otherwise, you probably own at least half of it. We got permission to discharge into our dyke from our local internal drainage board. They'll probably want a proper concrete headwall, but that's not a biggie.

1st tip: stop looking at it. No one else will ever notice! 2nd tip: a bead of white silicone would finish it nicely, but it needs doing by someone who can run a neat bead of silicone. (I don't think using clear silicone will help if it's the visual gap that offends).

Is that a bit high? We only have one humidity sensor (its in a weather station, so can't really vouch for accuracy), but it's usually <50% in the kitchen. We're approaching our 4th winter and not seen any condensation yet.

Sorry, think it might be £18 a set having checked: Vent Axia Sentinel Kinetic B.

Proportional humidity sensor is great - identifies a running shower pdq. Summer bypass never seems to do much, but to be fair, I haven't experimented without it. Our boost switches never get used. Filters get changed twice a year at £15 a set plus delivery (regular subscription with Filtermate - saves me remembering)

Depending on what they are, they might still be a winter food source for wildlife. If you're not in a hurry, I'd wait until any hawthorn berries etc have gone, then get the digger in.

Yes. It might be dusty, ugly, and feel like living in a building site, but there are no practical downsides.

For info, in the 'olden days', before the advent of plasterboard, walls/ceilings were built with thin laths of wood nailed to studs/joists and then plastered over with lime plaster, often with horse hair in the mix to help it bind. Phased out from 1930's I think.

My thoughts exactly...

Sorry, I can't add anything other than to echo the previous comments, but out of interest, is it an old house? Perhaps a lath and plaster ceiling?

Not specific to renovations, but generally lenders like to be confident that you've got funding in place to finish the job from the start, so I'd expect them to require the full deposit up front.

Sorry, can't advise. I never actually bought anything. I thought it was just a like a 'classified ads' place where people advertised their stuff, then you did the deal however it suits.

We use a clothes horse in the utility room with mvhr, and can dry a washing machine full overnight with no problem, and no condensation or high humidity. We do still have a condensing drier though, in case we need to turn anything round quickly. I'd invest in a new drier rather than mess about trying to duct your old one. Venting directly into the room might put steam into the room at a faster rate than the vent can clear.

It's difficult to tell exactly what we're looking at. Is the second pic a bit of quadrant in a corner? Anyhow, I'd give the mdf a good rub down with some fine sandpaper and another coat of paint, then caulk it again. I don't think you can rely on paint filling those gaps I'm afraid. Oh, and caulk after you've primed, not before.

If it doesn't look finished now, I can't see a sealer making the difference tbh. What are you looking for from a sealer?

I had to create an account for the same purpose earlier this year - instant access at the time.