Roundtuit

Ours is rebated feather-edge, face-fixed at 400mm centres. There was the occasional slightly cupped board that wouldn't pull in tight when it was fixed, but I don't think anything has moved much since installation.

Wow... demolish and re-build would be my first suggestion. Assuming that's not an option, I'd try and get a reputable builder or two over for an informal chat to get an idea of how viable this is.

Is this an 'add on'? Can't see those pillars on the elevation drawings, or am I missing something?

If your main contractor doesn't have the necessary resource 'in-house', then I think he needs to do whatever it takes to help you deliver your project. Sounds like the requirement has been pretty clear from the outset. What's his proposed solution?

Ah well, back to flicking through the tv channels then 😉

As above: waste of time. Stuff only germinates much nearer the surface, and a membrane will only restrict worms from doing their job. Get the hosepipe out if you need to; no need for sprinklers unless you're really precious about your lawn and/or don't have time to get the hosepipe out.

We went with 'c'. Didn't give it much thought or really consider the alternatives tbh, but used bigger ducting. Our island has hob, SensioPod electric socket on the kitchen ring (well worth considering), and led lights over the plinth, switched from a wall.

I used about 3000 of the tongue tite 45mm screws on siberian larch a couple of years ago. No issues with pull through or movement, so you should be OK with lost heads.

From the plan, it looks like there is quite a lot of 'amenity' land included in the development. I can see why the council aren't keen for you to box your bit in, and if everyone did it, it would significantly affect the character of the area. I think I'd accept the 1m fence option tbh.

I saw an 'interesting' outdoor storage solution in a back garden recently; a couple of knackered old fridge-freezers. Not pretty, but reasonably weatherproof, comes with adjustable shelving, and available foc in a lay-by near you! 😀

Easier to plane some timber down to size and fit new I think, so no need to be so careful when getting the old ones out.

I think you need to separate the two issues. The planning objection is the one that needs the focus. Their poor administration is neither here nor there really in my opinion, and pulling them up on it is unlikely to change the objection.

Might be worth trying Mitchell Piling at Saxthorpe. Piling and reinforced concrete is their main speciality, but they do other groundworks I think. They did a good job on our piles and ring beam.

I can't recall the exact qualifying criteria, but you can possibly use your 'free go' for a second application, so the only cost is time (and a bucket full of stress!)

What was the actual wording of the refusal? I assume that the objection has come from the Council's Tree Officer? In my experience, Tree Officers can often be part-time or shared between councils, and may not have much time to put into giving considered feedback to applications, so default to 'no'. I'd try and make contact and get them out to site for a meeting to discuss mitigation measures. You might be able to reach an agreement without spending any money on consultants.

Sorry to hear you've got this problem; no mist coat by the sounds of it. I repainted a bathroom ceiling for someone last year with a similar problem, and it was a real pain in the ass to get an acceptable finish by the time I'd soaked, scraped, sanded, gouged the plaster etc. If you don't get all of the old stuff off, you can still see it through the next coats. If it had been mine, I'd have had it re-skimmed. If its walls, have you considered tiling instead? It will still need some prep work, but might be easier to get a satisfactory finish.

I can't think of a way of your builder justifying an additional charge tbh; it should have been priced in, but even if they did, we're surely only talking about a couple of hundred quid for half a day's work?

I used those 45mm tongue tite screws for our cladding on to 25mm battens over blockwork. Anything sticking out of the back of the batten just screws into the blockwork. Screw heads are just below the cladding surface and barely visible at 5 paces.

I just keep the dog away until the spay has had chance to properly dry. If it's a dog that has a habit of eating grass however, perhaps keep it fenced off until the spayed area has started to desiccate and becomes unpalatable.

Mrs Onoff. She's seen the rate you're getting through the job list...

+1 for the brush-in resin stuff. I used Joint-it. Not cheap, but good results and way easier than pointing up with mortar. Ours has been down for a couple of years and looks as good as day one.

Sounds like too many extracts unless you have a lot of 'wet' rooms. The air needs to flow through the house, not just out of a feed and back up an adjacent extract. Generally I think you can just extract in toilets/bathrooms/utility/kitchen, and feed to every habitable room. As above, a plan would help. (Don't forget a 10mm gap under all of your internal doors is required to get the air flow 😉)

Nah... I think that when he submitted the objections his battle-lines were already drawn, and he'd resolved to live with whatever fall-out followed...

Sounds like your neighbour is set on being a pain in the butt. How was the letter delivered? If not recorded delivery, I'd be tempted to bin it and carry on as planned. However... wiser words are as above. If you can still manage to be civil with the guy, try and come to some sort of understanding and agreement, but you really need to understand what your legal rights of access are first.

Why not just use slate, with a bit more slate, and slate on top of that? Just tap it in until it's tight and chip off anything overhanging.