CotswoldDoItUpper

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About CotswoldDoItUpper

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  1. Thanks @nod, helpful advice as always! do you think our tiles can be lifted without damaging the UFH pipes? I need to have an argument with our tiler and want to be well prepared! Will it also damage the dritra matting too?
  2. Great, but both can be used on natural limestone? Thanks!
  3. Can anyone tell me if there is a practical difference between the KF and MN versions of Lithofin Stain Stop? Maybe the god of tiling (and other things) @nod can point me in the right direction?
  4. We got design and supply from https://www.ufhtradedirect.co.uk who seemed reasonable. Think design on its own is £50, but that can be taken off the price if the kit if you order through them.
  5. Your cardiovascular system works harder to pump more blood to extremities when warm so that the process off evaporation from perspiration can take place. the exception is when you’re very cold and continually shivering. This can increase calorific burn by about 200/hr over non-shivering cold temps, but that is strictly not a reflection of an increase of your Basel metabolic rate. have a quick google for refs.
  6. You burn more calories to cool the body then heat it…. Therefore a warmer environment will assist those trying to reduce mass of body fat. #OffToppic #sorry
  7. Looks similar to what’s happened to our inside kitchen limestone….. no one (tile supplier, tiler, adehesive manufacturer, grout manufacturer or sealer manufacturer) really knows why, or they’re not willing to own up to causing an issue.
  8. 7 days after removing sealer we have this. Would it make a difference if the tiler had used the wrong version of lithofin stain-stop? For example He might have used KN instead on MN by accident. Would this have made a difference?
  9. Another ‘quote’… thus one seems much better thought about, though roughly the same price inc vat.
  10. That’s a great suggestion thanks! Did you install anything between the pipes abs the underlay to ‘level’ the floor, and if not, can you feel the pipes through it?
  11. @IanR our space heating is 34654 kWh per year and our hot water requirements are 2337 kWh per year. EPC from about 6 months ago when we bought was 19G. I think we will was a bigger cylinder anyway, but this quote was a starting point! I do think it is maybe a bit on the £££ side, but I’ll have to see what other quotes say. @LA3222 given our EPC the Gov website says we should expect £1300/year in RHI payments. 60% reduction in bills I think is a little strong, but I’d be happy with 40%! LPG is v expensive fabric is being improved, we’re adding insulation and foil tape everywhere we can to keep it as efficient whilst allowing a 200+ year old building breathe. It’s a challenge, but we’ll get there! @SimonD ooo good spot thanks! What’s the 60% vat rule? and no, I don’t think they have done their own heat loss calcs. We have an EPC from the purchase and I pointed out where it was incorrect but no more then that. To be fair, the guy came to quote for a different job (bathrooms) and I asked him to quote for an ASHP too seeing as he was here!!
  12. Does this seem reasonable? Never heard of Nibe either, any experience with them?
  13. Any idea what should go between UFH pipes and carpet underlay? surely if you lay routed chipboard there will still have to be a covering so you can’t feel the empty bits where there are no pipes?
  14. - air gap under joists (yes suspended floor) - joist depth 100mm on 400 centres - I wasn’t planning on putting underlay directly onto the eps, Im trying to establish what I should put between them. google images here I come!
  15. Didn’t know such a thing existed! yup will do that. Do the ‘empty’ bits of routed chipboard need filling with anything? Or would you feel the uneven surface of chipboard and pipes through the carpet and underlay? I guess you could always also use pir over joists for better results then the eps? Or are either not strong enough to take the further floor make up?