Roundtuit

Sorry you've got these problems, but it looks like they need to start again really, as the warranty won't be valid if its not installed correctly. Have they used that silver flexi duct throughout? Rigid or semi-rigid would be more usual.

Assuming the screen is hinged to aid access, do you really want to silicone it? Maybe it's fixed a bit too far out? If it was moved back towards the taps a bit, would that help direct the run-off back into the bath rather than over the side?

Poor job. As above, its the sort of job that makes you wish you'd had a crack at it yourself. I'd have a chat with them and discuss your concerns; they're all valid. I'd also want more separation between the vents - can't remember what the recommendation is, but worth checking before you part with any money. (And the plenum should be covered in insulation when they've finished).

We'll be living with Covid 19 for the foreseeable future and managing the risks, so I guess you've got to decide if you want a heating engineer to come round and fix your boiler, or come round for dinner, a shower, and a quick scale and polish.

Maybe I'm just over over-cautious; I be nervous about making sparks inside, but have at it with everything else in the tool box. This why we all keep the knackered chisel and the slightly bent screwdriver ?

We've got 4 x smallish top-hung velux in our bedroom. I couldn't justify the extra cost for 3g (the rest of the house is 3g), so got the 2g 'comfort' glazing as the best thermal/soundproofing/cost compromise. I've nothing to compare them to, but no regrets 3.5 yrs in.

Doesn't look like there is any thread on the pin other than the the end for the nut, so it should just pull out.

Just had a look at the instructions, and it looks like the top hinge pin just pulls out without removing the nut, unless it's tight, in which case take off the nut, insert spacer, replace nut and tighten to pull up the pin a bit.

Short term, sort the gutters and any other obvious potential sources of water ingress, then the general rule is: heat and ventilate! Longer term, maybe need to look at DPM in the floor, external ground levels and dry-lining problem areas.

Proffesional products are not illegal for domestic use, but you should be qualified to use it. CRD website: "Professional products should never be used by the untrained amateur gardener". Seems fairly clear. https://www.hse.gov.uk/pesticides/user-areas/garden-home.htm

It's not legal to use products that are only approved for professional use (even if the active ingredient is the same) unless you're qualified to do so. If you're not qualified, best to stick to products approved for amateur use if you want to stay on the right side of the law.

Not fit fur purpose...

Every day's a school day, and I sense a gap in my education.... why lube something that you want to stay done up tight?

Yeah....maybe just ask them to check before causing you more upheaval though...

Nothing to add but 'good luck!', and that I hope karma works it's magic. ?

Definitely brackets; you don't really want to be damaging the factory finish on the frames. Mine were Rationel, purchased separately. You just need to be a bit careful if your tolerances are tight; I ended up hammering the crank out of the brackets as it was putting too much pressure on the jambs and bowing them in slightly overnight....

Good advice. Luckily I was able to visit site every day and could take waste in car-loads to the local recycling centre, so only one 8yd skip used at the end for the heavy stuff.

A couple of fire extinguishers wouldn't go amiss too.

Our water connection supposedly needed a road closure, but the council wouldn't authorise it and told Anglian Water to mole it instead. We still lost loads of time whilst this was going on, but it might be worth asking if moling is an option to avoid a road closure.

I'm really hoping that's true and you didn't just make it up for $hits and giggles...

?? Oh, ghostly. Thought you said ghastly...

I expect foundation design can mitigate any risk to the extension, but perhaps need to consider damage to existing foundations through heave if the tree is close, depending on soil type and tree size. It may need to be removed over the course of a couple of years; get some expert advice.

Google 'felt lap vents'; possibly an easy fix.

Sorry, I'm not a big fan of the natural wood look in this circumstance; just reminds me of a gopping pine t&g ceiling I had to sort out 20 yrs ago. I'd probably use softwood and paint it a complementary or contrasting colour; it could look stunning at a fraction of the price.

A 'standard' mvhr system takes up a lot of space when you factor in the unit, manifolds, silencers and the fact that you need ducting between all the components. Maybe have a look at something like this: https://fresh-r.eu/en/ No idea if it works or what the cost is, but on paper might be a solution!