Roundtuit

Our water connection supposedly needed a road closure, but the council wouldn't authorise it and told Anglian Water to mole it instead. We still lost loads of time whilst this was going on, but it might be worth asking if moling is an option to avoid a road closure.

I'm really hoping that's true and you didn't just make it up for $hits and giggles...

?? Oh, ghostly. Thought you said ghastly...

I expect foundation design can mitigate any risk to the extension, but perhaps need to consider damage to existing foundations through heave if the tree is close, depending on soil type and tree size. It may need to be removed over the course of a couple of years; get some expert advice.

Google 'felt lap vents'; possibly an easy fix.

Sorry, I'm not a big fan of the natural wood look in this circumstance; just reminds me of a gopping pine t&g ceiling I had to sort out 20 yrs ago. I'd probably use softwood and paint it a complementary or contrasting colour; it could look stunning at a fraction of the price.

A 'standard' mvhr system takes up a lot of space when you factor in the unit, manifolds, silencers and the fact that you need ducting between all the components. Maybe have a look at something like this: https://fresh-r.eu/en/ No idea if it works or what the cost is, but on paper might be a solution!

Wall is fine. I'd get the contractor back to fit the fence on the left level with the gate and trim the top off the post though ?

I had a box of D4 glue left over after our floor deck was laid. I thought the frame supplier had over supplied. Only later do you find out that you have some creaks and squeaks in the floor and suspect they probably didn't use enough... Bite the bullet and sort it now is my advice.

Unless your tight for headroom, you can put celotex between joists and then 25 or 40mm celotex inside, over the joists, fixed with battens, then plasterboard is fixed to the batons. I had 150mm between joists, 40mm over the joists, 25mm batons and 15mm plasterboard to get to about 0.13 W/m2k I think.

Good move; much respect! For that gesture, you’ll get your money back many times over I think.

Sorry, down to you I reckon. I supplied Velux x4 with flashing kits for my roofers to install, to make sure they had the correct ones. I think the insulation collar is optional; he can't reasonably have been expected to price for that too.

Yes, just another material!

They're pretty standard. I did mine to an acceptable standard, and I'm pretty fussy. Paintbrush in one hand, wet wipe in the other! ? If you take them off, you'll get paint in the hinge cut outs and then the hinges won't sit flush. Offer to pay an hourly rate if your concerned about a slap-dash job. I only use water-based paints now (usually Albany acrylic eggshell from Brewers). The finish is good if you don't over-brush, and brush clean-up is sooo much easier.

Unless you're talking big towers and zip slides, I'd probably just do it. Any neighbours likely to object?

I'd politely ask the builder to get a skip in to shift his mistake then ?

The workshop can always have another name for planning purposes, but electricity might be a stumbling block. To qualify for zero rating, the dwelling has to be capable of being disposed of independently I believe. Not sure what that means in terms of splitting titles etc, but HMRC will be the arbiter ultimately rather than planners.

Double boarded plasterboard for sound insulation? As above, you really need something solid to fix to. Can you find a stud? I built-in some 6×2 noggins in a stud wall to coach-bolt to. I reckon it's as good as fixing to blockwork.

I did that. Dumped all of the bricks, blocks, concrete, broken tiles etc in a heap where the patio was going to be, and spent 2 years looking at a pile of crap wishing I had a patio. When I did get round to building the patio, I decided it was a bad idea, got a skip in to get rid of most of it and put about 10 tonnes of Type 1 down. I'd say either skip it, or loose it bit by bit down the local recycling centre.

Asking for a friend? ? Sounds unlikely to be granted retrospective permission for a garage I suspect. Maybe 'outbuilding' that doesn't require vehicular access has a chance.

I think most people would fit 'standard' gates, and accept that the gap underneath at one end is going to be greater than at the other.

There's no easy fix, but if you're not going to be trying to get a car in there, you could explore the possibility of installing a perimeter drain inside the garage, running into your existing drain channel, then dry-line the inside. A similar solution is used for basements in old houses I believe (with a pumped sump). Might be easier than digging the driveway up.

Only the ready-to-eat stuff. You can buy unwashed and do it yourself if approved and validated food safety measures concern you.

I bought Siberian larch from an on-line seller, based about 50 miles away. The price was great, quality was pretty average, and service was poor. I'd shop around and get samples. Local is nice, but if the timber is coming from Siberia, the last 100 miles is neither here nor there.

Ha! One of those self-build moments that convert your ar$ehole into a manhole. I remember the time I thought my planning permission had lapsed whilst my new application was still in progress...