Roundtuit

As above. I'd have a look on some old maps perhaps, to see if you used to have two next door neighbours rather than one. 'Render for a reason' were my builders words of wisdom when we did a renovation job. If the brickwork was all in decent order, it's unlikely anyone would go to the expense of rendering it. If the render is coming off anyway, you can make the call when you see what's left behind. The bit you've taken off looks like it was just done for continuity between gable end and garden wall tbh.

The IDB didn't manage our dyke either, but we still needed their permission. I'd ask them if you haven't already - if they're not interested, they might be able to point you in the right direction. BC had no interest once the IDB had ok'd it. Don't know about the EA, but pretty sure they were not involved in our case.

I don't see why you shouldn't; if its at your boundary, unless you know otherwise, you probably own at least half of it. We got permission to discharge into our dyke from our local internal drainage board. They'll probably want a proper concrete headwall, but that's not a biggie.

1st tip: stop looking at it. No one else will ever notice! 2nd tip: a bead of white silicone would finish it nicely, but it needs doing by someone who can run a neat bead of silicone. (I don't think using clear silicone will help if it's the visual gap that offends).

Is that a bit high? We only have one humidity sensor (its in a weather station, so can't really vouch for accuracy), but it's usually <50% in the kitchen. We're approaching our 4th winter and not seen any condensation yet.

Sorry, think it might be £18 a set having checked: Vent Axia Sentinel Kinetic B.

Proportional humidity sensor is great - identifies a running shower pdq. Summer bypass never seems to do much, but to be fair, I haven't experimented without it. Our boost switches never get used. Filters get changed twice a year at £15 a set plus delivery (regular subscription with Filtermate - saves me remembering)

Depending on what they are, they might still be a winter food source for wildlife. If you're not in a hurry, I'd wait until any hawthorn berries etc have gone, then get the digger in.

Yes. It might be dusty, ugly, and feel like living in a building site, but there are no practical downsides.

For info, in the 'olden days', before the advent of plasterboard, walls/ceilings were built with thin laths of wood nailed to studs/joists and then plastered over with lime plaster, often with horse hair in the mix to help it bind. Phased out from 1930's I think.

My thoughts exactly...

Sorry, I can't add anything other than to echo the previous comments, but out of interest, is it an old house? Perhaps a lath and plaster ceiling?

Not specific to renovations, but generally lenders like to be confident that you've got funding in place to finish the job from the start, so I'd expect them to require the full deposit up front.

Sorry, can't advise. I never actually bought anything. I thought it was just a like a 'classified ads' place where people advertised their stuff, then you did the deal however it suits.

We use a clothes horse in the utility room with mvhr, and can dry a washing machine full overnight with no problem, and no condensation or high humidity. We do still have a condensing drier though, in case we need to turn anything round quickly. I'd invest in a new drier rather than mess about trying to duct your old one. Venting directly into the room might put steam into the room at a faster rate than the vent can clear.

It's difficult to tell exactly what we're looking at. Is the second pic a bit of quadrant in a corner? Anyhow, I'd give the mdf a good rub down with some fine sandpaper and another coat of paint, then caulk it again. I don't think you can rely on paint filling those gaps I'm afraid. Oh, and caulk after you've primed, not before.

If it doesn't look finished now, I can't see a sealer making the difference tbh. What are you looking for from a sealer?

I had to create an account for the same purpose earlier this year - instant access at the time.

I bought standard outdoor sockets and let them back into the brick as far as possible, but you still end up with about 30mm + sticking out of the wall to allow for the front to hang up, cable access etc

Got a bit bored reading their response tbh. Looks like a 'holding' position whilst they decide what to do, with nothing of substance. They are probably just buying some time trying to find a way to get their ass off the line. The installation problems aren't going to go away on their own and aren't really subjective, so I think you're in a strong position to get it sorted. It'll be interesting to see what Vent Axia say.

If the old patio was dodgy, I'd want at least 100mm of type 1 compacted. Are they raising the height of the patio to avoid digging down? As above, the fall on the patio should run away from the house, so the drain needs to go where gravity dictates if the water can't soak away into the ground. Sounds like they don't much like digging.

Rather you than me, but I'm sure it's not a first. ? If 185mm is what you've got to play with, I'd put some more insulation in and use a thinner liquid screed I think.

As above, hacksaw and carefully, and deffo some timber to stop the profile distorting. There might be a risk of burning the powder coating back from the edge a bit if a cutting disc is used.

Our dishwasher came with an aluminium plate to fix to the underside of the worktop above the dishwasher (well, it would have done if I hadn't bought it off ebay). Google 'bosch vapour barrier plate' and you'll get the idea. I'd clean up your delaminated stuff to level it off, seal it with a coat or 2 of gloss paint or exterior varnish, then hide it all under a shiny metal plate. Job done!

Yeah... been meaning to say cheers for that...