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Found 10 results

  1. Hi everyone I’d welcome your thoughts please, especially on heating. Wanted to reach out to you all as I’m finding it’s tough to get unbiased advice and personal experience. We’re just about to start a renovation and extension project to a bungalow. The existing building is a time capsule from 1979 with a stunning avocado bathroom suite so we need to do the works: heating, ventilation, electrics, skimming, new flooring etc. So we have a blank canvas. We’re trying to work out the classic air source heat pump vs gas, and UFH vs radiators conundrum. The existing property is 60m2 with a concrete floor (the very fashionable original self-adhesive tiles are below an equally fashionable retro carpet). Ceiling height is c.2.3m. We need to plasterboard the ceilings before skimming, so are losing a touch of height there. The extension will be 30m2. Attic insulation is going to be increased, there’s cavity wall insulation, and we’ll be putting in new windows. We’re looking at installing MVHR. The existing property’s radiators need replacing anyway and the pipes are all currently mounted on the walls, so if we went for rads here it would be a big job including all the pipework chased through the walls, etc. Even if we couldn’t afford a heat pump now, we’d want to make it as ‘heat pump ready’ for the future as possible by using low flow temp rads, etc. Because of the expense of this scenario, we wonder the actual cost difference with the alternative, which is a low-profile retrofit UFH system? I’ve been researching and awaiting quotes - I’ve heard back so far from Nu-Heat for their LowPro Max. I’m concerned with appropriateness for the existing building, cost, additional lost ceiling depth (although I’m pretty short!), and if there’s a building regs issue with presumably having no insulation with the original concrete floor. We’d like to do UFH in the 30m2 extension and have been quoted so far for Nu-Heat’s relevant system. The grant from April closes the financial gap between a heat pump and a new gas boiler, as if we went for old school gas there would be extra costs to replace the ancient combi as well as moving the gas supply (crazy money!), required to accommodate the new floor plan. So as there would be a relatively minor jump in cost to a heat pump, we’re wondering if the time is right now? And if so, how this would influence the choice of UFH vs rads in the existing part of the house? Would really appreciate your ideas, observations and experience. Big thanks
  2. Hi everyone! I’m new to this forum, I came across it yesterday when looking for some information on flooring insulation - found what I needed, thank you!! I decided to sign up so that I can get a bit more involved, and perhaps share the progress of our build that is due to kick off in March/April 2022. My partner and I bought a 50’s bungalow about 5 years ago, we re-wired, and heavily decorated/lightly renovated at that time, to make it liveable for the family until we could afford to extend and renovate properly. We have just received approval of our plans, and so are preparing to kick off the build when the weather improves - also giving us a bit more time to prep, save, buy a caravan, save, etc etc… Being a bungalow the front garden is big enough to site a static home, allowing us, the kids, the dog, the gecko, and all our stuff to move out….. yep, it’s going to be tight for a few months - that’s all a part of the fun, right!!!! I look forward to sharing progress in the new year!! Cheers for now!
  3. The bungalow has an average of 180mm of PIR under the suspended floor. The cavity walls have an average of 140mm PIR in the walls The loft has an average of 300mm of fluffy. Theflat roof has 200mm PIR. The doors and windows are the latest double glazing.
  4. The bungalow was built in the 1970's and extensively renovated in the last 4 years. It has external block walls and timber suspended floor, timber frame including all internal walls and concrete tiled roof running east/west at a rise of 23 degrees. Having never heard of, or gained knowledge from, buildhub I renovated and extended the bungalow as best as I knew. The garage was converted and has a flat roof. Fortunately the work included insulation, air tightness and a MVHR unit. We ended up with about a 100m2 bungalow.
  5. Air tightness was followed to a reasonable standard: All external walls sealed with plastic before the electric first fix Plasterboard ceiling to almost floor and then siliconed / masticed to floor. No open fireplaces, cat flaps or tricklevent.
  6. Hi there. This is my first post on the buildhub. I'm a halfways capable DIY-er, with more mistakes behind me than successes, but I learn. My current problem is the ventilation of my sons' bedrooms. Do you think you can help please? The window in each room has no trickle vent. Please see the attached photos. I do have a sliding vent above each bedroom into the hall. With 3 boys sharing two rooms, a lot of moisture and smell is generated overnight. I am not keen on leaving the windows open overnight, due to draughts and security. After watching a DIY video explaining how to retro-fit a trickle vent in a DG window, I drilled a pilot hole in one window frame, expecting a short penetration into void space within the frame that could likewise be accessed from the other side. Instead I hit something solid - possibly metal reinforcement within the frame. Anyways it looks like trickle vents are out, unless you can advise on what I might be doing wrong with the window frame, or perhaps suggest another means, e.g. through the brick wall? I'm concerned in any case these vents are passive and largely uncontrollable. They are also subject to clogging and the effects of wind and other weather stuff. Buildhub led me to the idea of PIV. I have plenty accessible space in my loft and easy access to gable ends, but not much money. I suspect they are expensive? I have two bathrooms, a kitchen and a living room, as well as 3 bedrooms to be involved in PIV. Do you think that might be a solution? What are the limitations? Can I DIY the installation? I also read about MVHR. Do you think that could work? Again, I don't have much money, what are the limitations? Can I DIY the installation? I read that this solution is dependent on air tightness levels of 5ach or below (air changes per hour). No idea how I can measure that. Do you know? A few questions here. Apologies. I hope you can provide some good advice that will help me. Ay. James.
  7. Hi there. I've recently bought a 1970s build bungalow. The majority of rooms do not have trickle vents in the double-glazed windows. I've joined this hub to seek some advice and guidance on the best way to ventilate my sons' bedrooms. With doors closed at night, and 3 teenagers sharing two rooms, a lot of moisture (and smell!) is generated and I'd like them to have fresh air circulating in their rooms.
  8. Hi All, Hope you're well. I am in the process of potentially purchasing a new property. It is a semi detached bungalow and the bungalow it is attached to has extended out the back (Single Story). When I went to view the property, the extension was nearly complete but I have since found out that planning has now been applied for. I have looked through the plans and my only worry is there are two frosted half opening windows on the side aspect effectively looking over my garden. My worry is, would I be able to build the same extension, effectively blocking out frosted window light of next door? Am happy to provide the planning application link if the above doesnt make sense. Many Thanks
  9. We've demolished our bungalow in order to build a new house. As the garden is large and slopes off away from the house, we want to use the broken bricks and smashed concrete to fill it in. As part of this, we want a totally flat area for our kids to play football on. Our demolition contractor says we don't need to crush the bricks before putting them in the garden. Will this work? Or is he just trying to save labour here and fob us off?
  10. Hi All, I've been reading this site for a couple of years, and now decided it's time to make my first post. My partner and I are currently looking at a building plot (a garden plot divided from the current owners) which has full planning permission for a 3 bed dormer bungalow. A bit about the plot: The current plot has a south facing garden, with 2 storey houses to the rear, right and on the other side of the road. To the left of the proposed dwelling is a bungalow. The proposed dwelling is 4.6m from the bungalow and the house to the right hand side, and 16 meters to the houses at the rear (they only have small yard, no garden). The current planning permission sets an eave height of 3.8m and a ridge height of 8.3m. The current proposed roof schematic runs so the eaves are only 3.8m by the bungalow (so in affect the roof is long). Currently the master bedroom only has a small window and two roof windows, but if we were to increase the eave height we would like a full sized window at the back of the property. Previously, the rear houses but in a object saying the window would over look there houses, (which are 16 meters back). Questions: Do you think we would have much success in putting in the a new planning application to increase the eave height to two storey? (From my reading, I don't think this would increase the ridge height) How much of a headache do you think it would be to a get a full sized bedroom window at the rear of the property? I've attached a link to the planning application. https://pa.shropshire.gov.uk/online-applications/applicationDetails.do?activeTab=summary&keyVal=NOLKXCTD0HG00 We thank you for your help. We would of course put in an offer subject to new planning permission, but would be useful to find out experiences before we do so. I hope that is clear, if not ask away and I will answer any questions. John
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