Oz07

As an aside I've never found out what fully happened there and I'd probably been a member since 2011.

I think min investment would have to be 1000 maybe 500 at a minimum. As Ferdinand said above though on the whole a mortgage on Dave's existing house at low LTV would probably produce the cheapest borrowing. The debt would be serviced by the rent you receive and maybe even cover it a good number of times depending on amount you raise. Think that is the answer.

I'm not sure you even understand what you are asking. You sit the internal vent on the same course you place your beams. The beams hold the block infill 50mm above this course. Your vent fits in this gap what alternative is there?! What are you asking?!

So are underground fittings ok inside as long as no uv exposure? I've always kept them for underground use only.

Ground level outside

I'd get your building regs drawings done first if you haven't already. For pricing. A lot can be fixed, some will be provisional

If you fix to external skin your only really limited by how good a fixing you can get. 30mm over brickwork 40mm into cav seems to work ok. Last new build I used a different method for better fixing. Fixed a 2x2 treated batten up the inside face of brickwork, cavity closer thickness back from edge and dpc between timber and brick. This enables you to drop it back more but still get decent fixing. Although with a thinner cavity it might be hard to do.

Or do as we are on current job. Let partitioners do all work on price with double plasterboard. Don't bother to spec ply on back layer. let dry liners steam ahead covering everywhere. Later cut out patches everywhere to put support in for everything after skim and mist coat. Proceed to complain job is behind and wonder why finish is crap.

Just buy a box 10/12

Looks good

2 layers of dpm if pir insulation.

Thought there would be a solution! how was your racking done @ProDave? Studs set to imperial or metric boards sourced?

Is there no metric sheets of OSB made specifically for this issue? Or can t&g sheeting be bought which works with 400/600?

Didn't notice till you said! Small pictures on these phones! nice looking drum!

Op suggest 10% perhaps and payable day work starts?

Cmon @JSHarris your maths is better than that

BCO usually agree during build providing your as built SAP will still stack up

Providing you have the easement and could lay new pipe I'm guessing if the economics worked for one house it will certainly work for 5! I.e. You should be able to afford a new main with the uplift in value of land

Pm'd

Definitely coming from the flue. @Nickfromwales any ideas?

I wish! seems to be coming out the flue though. Just been outside and is as loud as inside.

My 18month old combi has recently started to whistle on heating. No such sound on hot water. Really high pitched. Got told could be air so bled every rad. None had any air apart from towel rail (highest so seemed to make sense). Was quite a bit in. This hasn't stopped it whistling though. Could there be air in the pump? Why only on heating and not hot water? One thing I did do for the summer is turn off all rads at TRV apart from one where room stat was (no trv) and towel rail. Came on for around 3/4 hour each night to dry towels. Now all rads are back on. Thanks in advance

Wouldn't want mdf linings myself. Can see the advantage with being more stable on a tight program but less workable imo

Henrys pretty bombproof I use it and like you, notice contract cleaners do too. Perhaps as @Ferdinand says try to source a non eu handicapped model. What's this about conversion kit to wet and dry?! also my Henry has lost one of his legs (wheels). Presume you can buy spares but every wheel I've tried to nick off other Henry's never seems to come off easily!

Eaves doors look crisp. What are they and how do they work? Can't see any hinge knuckles and don't appear to be staggered for sliding