Bonner

If you’re mixing the same day, just slosh some water around the drum to loosen the remnants and mix it in with new batch.

As above, either lots of exploratory holes or a neat cut out of the PB

IMHO it looks a bit tight. Think circulation space around your table, do people need to squeeze past the window or planter side when those chairs are occupied? I would add another 1m to the width.

+1 for flow screed. You won’t find anything better than standard PIR, all you can do is increase thickness. No chance of raising the finished floor level?

I paid less and got less. For example, staircase can be designed for free by one of the specialist suppliers but if the architect does it, you can be assured it will fit! Electrical layout can be done by yourself but useful to get a professional take on it. If the architect works with the structural engineer, you have got a better chance of avoiding pitfalls during the build. All lessons learned for me. All in all, it seems a reasonable price.

As it says in the installation guide, 2-3mm joints. These are normally formed naturally by the shape of the paver, no spacers required. Bear in mind they have a ‘face’ side which is the way they should be laid.

Bit like pointing and rendering, get the mix right and it will stay. Don’t try to smooth it off wet, or it will slump. Scrape back when it’s dried after a couple of hours.

I’ve got Origin, quite pleased with them although would have preferred Alu-clad timber the budget wouldn’t allow. Maybe next time! Anyway no issues with Origin but your quote seems a bit steep. How many square metres?

I used a jigsaw with these blades. Virtually no dust. Much easier than a knife but the blade can wander if pushed too hard. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festool-Jigsaw-Blade-155-204345/dp/B07M6PKLCS/ref=asc_df_B07M6PKLCS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=412285882712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2151927361750310403&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007018&hvtargid=pla-872783453695&psc=1&th=1&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=85363719810&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=412285882712&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2151927361750310403&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007018&hvtargid=pla-872783453695

@kandgmitchell, if you use the @address you get a notification, I only saw this by chance. Will send a PM

My supplier of the main roof trusses also provided the calcs and materials for a fully vaulted room - glulam beam and cut rafters

I had a ‘collaboration’ agreed in principle between water and electricity networks but it fell through at the last minute. Electricity DNO dropped off a duct in preparation for the job. When the water contractor dug up the road, I asked them nicely if they would put the duct in for me. Initially they said they are not allowed so I asked if I could do it … “gis it here” said the man. DNO refunded the road crossing cost. Coincidentally the trench is being repaired next week, after two years it’s breaking up

You would be better off finding a reputable builder who has experience of similar jobs.

Some would say put a laser on it. Even though I’ve got one, would use a couple of string lines for a job like this!

Celotex has a compressive strength of 140kPa, about 14 tonnes per square metre evenly distributed! A person sitting on a dining chair might exert 300kPa so it will crush the foam. Human footprints create about 60kPa so you can walk on it without damage (in flat shoes). As others mentioned, the screed and floor coverings serve to spread the load over an area such that the pressure will be much less than the compressive strength.

Not for me, waste of floor covering. If you were tiling however, it would need to continue under the island to ensure correct levels and joints.

Just to clarify in case there are different interpretations here, £2.5k/m2 is reasonable for a finished house, for a weather tight shell it is a bit steep.

You need something under the LVT although nothing much. I used red foamy stuff from Wickes.

Have you got them on separate zones from the other rooms? If not you will want some heat in bathrooms when not needed in the rest of the house. As well as comfort, a bit of heat is needed to reduce condensation… and keep towels warm

I have something very similar from Nolte. Pretty sure they told me the worktop should overhang but I am sourcing my own so I can do what I want! I don’t think drips will be an issue, they are more concerned about a whole carton of milk running straight into the cabinet (for example).

What make is it? Does it have a profile to form the ‘handle’? If so, I think they are correct as any spills would tend to flood the inside of the cabinets (drips will still track under the worktop though). However 20mm seems excessive, I think 10mm would be enough.

TPU is a great material and useful to be able to 3D print with it! Just a tip for anyone who does have the kit however.... You can buy O ring cord which can be cut to length and joined with superglue. The only trick is cutting the ends square and getting a smooth joint but you can make a jig to help with that. We use O rings made like this at work for testing pipes, up to about 2000psi (above that the material starts to extrude so you need a metal composite seal)

Lovely job!

Normally a system will leak continuously as it is always pressurised, although the pressure does rise as it warms up, so it is possible that opens up a small leak. You should have a manifold with a pressure gauge somewhere. If there is a leak, even a small one, the pressure will drop over time.

Condensate is clean water and small volume, should be able to go anywhere. I have a small soakaway under the concrete pad.