Bonner

Having travelled in many countries that don’t have any apparent planning control, I do support the system. On the other hand, I support the reasonable right to do what I want with my own property (sounds like I am sitting on the fence!). In this case the planners think it’s harsh, you agree and neighbours and passers-by probably do too … The hedge will form a soft boundary which everybody thinks is acceptable. However there is no guarantee that hedge will be there in a years time from the planners perspective. Then the street will be left with a hard boundary … which you could paint bright pink.

That’s a lot of work! Stairs move a lot so the fixings will tend to loosen (of course you can try threadlock). Even if everything remains tight, bolted joints allow lateral movement which will cause creaking. I have just installed a kit staircase, the manufacturer says everything must be glued. Any maintenance can be done in situ, if you need to replace a tread doesn’t matter if you ‘break’ it off.

Can’t comment on the validity of this formula however the result should be 0.06958 and the unit is metre, therefore 69.58mm so you were right!

Presume you are using an MCS installer, in which case they should know the grant requirements. Mine was installed last December and grant approved using design EPC/SAP, still not finished so no air test or as built assessment.

You have everything needed to generate cracks, doorways, lintels (probably timber) landing joists … most likely minor movement due to temperature and humidity. Nothing to worry about in a house of that age, unless it gets much bigger.

That reminds me … @jack, is the anemometer still available?

I would follow the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations. Primer is used to ensure the adhesive bonds to the floor, whatever you are sticking on top. Having said that, our resident expert @nod, may know other tricks of the trade.

Maybe share plans for the replacement dwelling might help identify some improvement or line of defence. The existing house clearly lacks any merit, why would the planners want something similar?!

Not TV but YT … https://youtu.be/OpIRhkTOPAI?si=w5rU1roee0FxQnIt Don’t usually watch these things but thought this was interesting and quite enjoyable to watch. Some dodgey safety practices but I liked the simplicity of construction

Check the bottom of the walls are plumb and scrape if needed (plasterers often leave the bottom curled out!) Mist coat walls See YT for recommended adhesive, Robin Clevitt has some tests. Consensus seems solvent based is best. Caulk the top edge before fixing if you can

As @Tetrarch, mine came through on day 56, after a last minute flurry of activity!

Hi and welcome. Look forward to hearing more about your project.

Temporary staircase, cheap prefabricated one or make it yourself. Hint, make the main flight a bit short so you can adjust the height as you build the floor level up

https://www.lighthouseaudiovisual.co.uk/alustage--decotruss-quad-truss-straight-sections-128670-p.asp?_=&variantid=128860&gclid=CjwKCAjw5_GmBhBIEiwA5QSMxKV6vL-sDFllRQ4ihhcRtq3Tq_vdAa_dQFscuii-7RgTTHgZvapFohoCc2cQAvD_BwE Something like these? Search for lattice beam

There are steel or aluminium prefabbed trusses used for stages which will span 10m, can’t imagine they will be cheap though. If you don’t find a cost effective single span, a 100mm post in the middle would be a game changer

We had the ridge height challenge and responded by designing 1 3/4 storey barn style house. We have ceilings which slope down to 2.1m, low eaves detail over the windows. I think it is better proportioned externally and the internal sloping ceilings add interest without feeling compromised. The only minor issue was fitting wardrobes into the slope.

Leave them be, they are unlikely to do any structural damage. I had them in a previous property for 13 years without any issues. Masonry Bees are solitary and do not gather in large numbers although a few will choose the same patch of wall which suits them best.

Absolutely! Must be the very definition of one’s curtilage 😉

In this case, it may be in your interest to define your own curtilage. Not only on a drawing but also by erecting some kind of boundary. A simple post and rail fence should be sufficient, make it look permanent but keep in mind you may need to move it. Keep the area reasonably in proportion to the house, one purpose of defining domestic curtilage is to restrict urban sprawl in the countryside.

What about land registry, does it show just one parcel of land? Often domestic curtilage and paddocks are on separate deeds

I didn’t think Velux were expensive compared to the other windows! Highly recommend motorised opening with rain sensors, we use ours nearly everyday in the summer.

Looks like Mares-tail, quite a bugger to get rid of if it is

+1 for moving the wildlife on for a while. We cleared the site before the planners descended. No conditions were imposed but we have installed bird and bat boxes, wild planting and planning to dig a pond. New houses and gardens can actually increase the diversity of wildlife … after a brief disruption to habitats during the build.

In a hard water area they quickly show limescale (within days!). Scratches to the coating depends on quality and usage so can’t comment.

Never seen this on a drawing. Assuming they are built into the inner leaf of the cavity wall, it is the same as floor joists which are not treated. Just make sure the cavity tray is installed, then it will be fine.