Bonner

The electricity DNO is being quite helpful in my case, they are happy to throw a duct in the trench. Water need to do the dig because they go deeper but they are not willing (at the moment...) to ‘install others assets’ ? I am not giving up, just need to find the right person the speak to in the water supplier, also getting the council highways involved because they don’t want an A road closed twice!

I am currently trying to get the water and electric suppliers to collaborate in a road crossing, which is not easy ? I looked at getting others to do the non contestable work, nobody was interested in such a small job (must be approved contractors). As above, the utility companies must do their own connections.

It depends on the particular species so you will need expert advice. Critical factors are time of year, size of root ball you can move and if the plant will recover from hard pruning. The latter is important to reduce the shock load on the root stock, if it can be cut back to near the ground that would give it the best chance.

It depends on the sensitivity of the area (conservation area, AONB, etc.) and the local vernacular. Your front gable is significantly wider than all the others so I can see where they are coming from. Having said that, if it is not in a sensitive area, they won’t have legitimate ground to refuse. I recently had some challenges from the planners about my design. After a lot of sleepless nights, I decided not to compromise and the planners immediately relented.

Suggest you need a supply to the dining area for better distribution and balance the extracts

I have looked at this before and still thinking about making one eventually. In this country you have to think of it as a pond which you can occasionally take a dip in high summer. If you try to heat it without loads of chemicals the water will turn green with algae, some types of which are harmful to health.

I know someone who had a similar restriction but (whoops) the structure fell down. They promised to restore the same building envelope which the planners accepted. I was frustrated for these people, who through their honesty had to do a lot more work than necessary.

Looks good. Have you calculated the centre of buoyancy?? Please send photo when it’s on the pond ?

Not sure, it was in an old house about 12 years ago. I will have a look later.

I have seen this before, waterproofing causes the rain to run off so it soaks the untreated brickwork below. Treating the whole wall may be the only solution.

I had the Clearview which was excellent. Fully welded steel construction but still a few noises as it warmed up. These were not at all intrusive, just part of the character of a real fire.

I have used towel radiators with electric elements connected to central heating and stand alone. Stand alone rads were filled with water, with or without inhibitor (sealed system so corrosion won’t be an issue). Leave an air space for expansion as mentioned by @Onoff

£1800 inc VAT for my building regs drawings but they are the basic minimum to get building control approval, very little construction detail. This leaves a lot to work out with the builder, and potentially go wrong ... depends how much you want to fix in the drawings

Thanks @nod, I will have a word with the architect, definitely don’t want the cladding proud of the brickwork it would look so wrong!

Morning All, I am looking for ideas to improve a cladding detail on our plans. Just received building control drawings from the architect. The section shown is a timber clad section over the (recessed) main entrance door. It is brick either side so they have replaced the brick with block and put the cladding on that. I would prefer the cladding to be set back from the brick face by 3-4 inches. Is there any way to do that while keeping the inner block in the same line? Thinking timber framing packed with insulation, vapour barrier, then lath and cladding?

Not looked into Telcom myself yet as I am concentrating on building supplies. I also have a pole near the corner of my plot so assuming it will be straightforward. The neighbour who converted a barn next door said it was the easiest one to sort out, just want to make sure it can go in the same trench as water and electric on site so we don’t have to dig another.

I am going through this at the moment, water and electric on the other side of busy road. Both utilities said they would collaborate to avoid closing the road twice but I have to pay both for the road closure and dig in advance. They promised some refund if they don’t need to do all the works; road closure cost in full but only part of the excavation cost, depending on what they need to do. I will trust them and hope for a fair deal in the end. Water supplier will probably do the road crossing due to depth required. I am treating this a challenge to get two utilities to work together and if I save some money, that will be a bonus!

Update - the first quote was an estimate, apparently not taking into account there is no 3 phase supply nearby!! The area engineer rang me last week to ask if I really need 3 phase because they would need to extend their network which would cost (me) ‘5 figures’. So I won’t be having 3 phase then ?

That’s a fine piece of woodwork and if it doesn’t do as a filter, you can always use it as a commode ?

Bodge alert! My mate who is a plumber put my shower tray on a bed of decorators caulk (3 tubes if I remember). No movement in the 12 years I had the house. Lay it down on 2 thin battens then pull them out.

Agree with @Bozza, I know it looks like a waste of space but you will appreciate more space on the landing!

Enjoyed watching that with my porridge ? Agree that proper large panel SIPs would be better insulated, and stronger. Site safety is not exemplary, probably how most people would do it but not what you expect to see on a promotional video.

Hadn’t thought of that! Not sure if the DNO will entertain that assuming that they need to fit the meter? Would the spare phases just be terminated in a box before the meter?

Evening All, My first new topic so forgive me if it is the wrong section! I can see this has been discussed previously but I have a few specific questions ... Been quoted a electrical connection at £2400 single phase and £2600 three phase. Thinking about future generation and car charging, is it worth £200 extra? Are there any other additional costs or other implications to having three phase supply? For example meter, consumer unit, cabling etc. Planning to connect into a kiosk at the plot boundary with temporary building supply taken off. Eventually, I would run three phase to the garage and single phase to the house (hopefully without bothering the DNO!). Appreciate any advice!

I am also looking at MVHR for my new build starting early next year. I haven’t done the maths in as much detail but my conclusion was that heat recovery savings are marginal. Moving the air is probably going to cost more in reality, once ducting and filtration losses come into play. I think most people enjoy the comfort/health benefits and that is what I will be looking from the system. Main selection criteria for me would be investment cost, running cost, noise/vibration and reliability/serviceability with heat recovery efficiency low down the list.