Bonner

?! you said you going back to have a look, I am interested to know if UFH pipes do split if they freeze

what do your damp patches look like then?

Number of steps x rise - depth of stringer. About 1m. at a guess. It can be built up or another course knocked off later.

What exactly makes you think it has frozen? You’ve got water coming out of the manifolds which will be colder than in screed. Also you had 1 bar of pressure. If it has frozen, you might expect the pressure either off the scale due to expansion, or zero if it’s leaking (although it depends if and where an ice plug may have formed). I would be surprised if it has frozen and even more surprised if UFH pipe has burst.

... or try this simulator if you don’t want to do sums https://www.ubakus.com/en/r-value-calculator/

Is it single or two storey? How are the other services being routed? You may need to create some service voids. Might be worth posting the floor plan to get some suggestions what to do. Highly recommend you do fit some kind of ventilation system by the way!

Fees should only amount to a few hundred. Tiled roof will be heavier than sheet metal so structural calcs will need to be redone. Our roof truss supplier did those FOC. Keep in mind the change needs to be considered from an architectural point of view. Due to larger roof structure, eaves and verges could look different. There shouldn’t be any change in SAP, unless the larger roof timbers change your insulation strategy.

At least not wading through mud on site this week 🥶

Have you told the plumber which cistern is being fitted, bottom or side inlet, left or right feed? It looks like he has put it where it can feed any type of cistern and is out of plain sight.

I would be very happy with those prices if you have seen their work.

Seem like low prices although I am not sure what tacking is? Also the area seems quite small, is that the whole house? I am paying £13.50/m2 labour only for board and skim (including taping and beading). Walls and ceiling area is approx 1000m2 (floor area 280m2).

Good tip here, I know because I haven’t done it! Job for me in the Xmas holidays 😬

These look very bulky and expensive for something which should not be necessary IMO. A heat pump will be no more noisey than a passing car or the wind on a breezy day. In the summer, you might want to time it to come on at specific times to avoid disturbing people enjoying the courtyard. Suggest you plan to add one later if it really is a problem.

I got ‘estimates on line’ to do a costing off my plans. They send a detailed breakdown on a spreadsheet which I then used to budget and track actual costs. As @nodsays prices are all over place, most rising but signs of some falling depending on local market conditions.

If he is there everyday then fine, otherwise get a non-mobile portaloo. Caravan toilets tend to be too small, you might end up with various corners of site or even the house used as a convenience 💩 I have seen it on top of scaffolding

Yep, that’s a fine period telly stand!

As a 1.75, have you not got a loft space? Mine is very similar, just one pair of 150mm risers to the roof space and distribution to beds and baths from above. I would not be happy with all those pipes going up the walls. Even if you can hide them, it’s a potential noise issue.

I can vouch for this stuff. Had a very slow leak which was never found. Put leak sealer in and left it. Pressure not dropped for years since.

Normally they fit in a pocket, loosen a grub screw and pull it out. If you have to unscrew a threaded connection with seal, at least depressurise the tank!

It’s fairly obvious where the condensation is formed, just wipe it. If it doesn’t come off, on the inside. My windows (unoccupied new build) have loads of condensation on the outside every morning, presume this will go when it is heated?

d) Buy a sheet of 30mm PIR and cut into strips. Put that on the screed with full sheets on top. Fill 5mm gap with foam.

Have a look at expat forums. When parents had a place in Spain there were a few ‘men in vans’ shuttling stuff back and forth.

Have to agree with others, #1 must be your primary route. Hope you find a slim downpipe

Why do you want a standard door? I agree they are easier to use but how often and what would be used for (putting bins out, letting dog or cat out)? Have you got another back door, utility? Would you not want a wide opening from the kitchen in the summer? I would be inclined towards option 4

Assuming the gutters will be joined at the corner, it’s all down to flow rates. Maximum rainfall per hour in your area vs. gutter/downpipe capacity. Meteorological data from various sites, capacity from the manufacturer. Unless the architect intended 2 pipes for symmetry?