Bonner

DIY Kitchens have a useful planner with 3D visualiser which you can easily move things around.

If the drawing states 3000, you are very unlikely to finish at that after building tolerances, plaster etc. If you want 5x600 units, you need to start with 3100.

+1 waste of time, the edges should be butted up to an upstand anyway

Been quoted list less 70% and still 30% more than on line retailers!! My local merchants is normally empty apart from a couple hours in the morning. Meanwhile they have to pay for premises, energy, staff and even a manager, with limited turnover. They will never compete with on line retailers and will only survive as long as customers are willing to pay trades ‘whatever it costs”.

I used Siberian Larch in the end but looked at many alternatives. I would not be comfortable with timber imported from West Africa even if it does claim FSC certified. Apparently not durable in it’s raw form, needs to be thermo-modified which then depends on the consistency of the process. After thermal treatment it is brittle so certain profiles not recommended.

I am thinking about a Samsung, what’s wrong with the electronics, functionality or reliability?

On a previous house, I did about 10 different mixes before I arrived at a close match. Even then the colour changes with age. Try another builders sand (bagged), a bit of Portland cement with the white stuff ...

I went to see a passive house which had only IR heaters. Could work in very low heat demand properties but otherwise I expect expensive to run. Have you done a heat demand calculation? Is this single or double storey? If two storey, you are unlikely to need much heating upstairs. The UFH cost seems very high. And yes, it is likely to put future buyer off.

We also went with dark colour inside (RAL7015) even though the supplier offered white. They contrast the white walls and frames the views.

Thanks, I needed to hear that 😬

Do I really need a SE to calc/spec structural elements of this garage? I could do without the fees unless they can propose a more cost effective construction. The main element is the beam for 5m span, but I was also looking to confirm specifications of the two smaller beams and wall piers. It will be inspected by local BC due to size but they seems quite relaxed about it.

I agree the drawing is not clear but the note states twist strap. It has 90 deg. twist whereas the other type has 90 deg. bend

If you Google 900*100*30 twist strap you will find the right product. Designed to strap the truss to the wall, not fastening the wall plate which is what the angle straps do.

I used to live by a woodland, got a gleaning license from the forestry commission. Don’t think other people bothered but it was only a few groats a year.

+1 for the Titan from Screwfix which has a power take off for tools (despite its power consumption, it’s not running long enough to worry me that much).

On Channel 5 last night. Interesting prefab build, on a spectacular site with nice finishing details. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-11732091/amp/Couple-spend-1-1million-building-dream-Scandinavian-home-Scotland.html

Wow that’s tidy enough! Shame to cover it up 🙂

Spoke to my plumber (who is very thorough in everything he does). Never used sand and cement. It used to be tile adhesive but now it’s the cheapest mastic on the shelf (No nails, silicone or even caulk). It’s just a bed to prevent concentrated loading

I have 7015 slate grey, slightly lighter than anthracite, so not so common as muck and happy with it. I agree with @craig, a dark grey would spoil the character. Why don’t you have two colours, light grey (7032?) in the old part and a darker shade in the modern extension? https://enlightenedwindows.co.uk/tag/ral-7032-pebble-grey/

The ones I had in the past were 300W and took about 30mins to reach temperature. Water heated, at least by an ASHP, are not faster to warm up but they always on. My point was relying on a PIR to switch on a towel rad may not work very well as you would be finished before it warms up.

Guessing you have a gas boiler? With an ASHP towel rads never get too hot and are always on, controlled by room and tank thermostats. I did consider electric and agree they could be a better solution for some. They are very slow to warm up so wouldn’t rely on a PIR sensor.

You will have a flow and return from the heat pump and you need a circuit for the towel rads. This just needs to be connected before the control valves. No extra piping just different connection point.

Not exactly run off the hot water tank but tee off the ASHP flow before any control valves. That’s what I have done and it works well because the towel rads come on whenever there is any demand from hot water or UFH. Even in the summer you need a bit of warmth and dry towels in the bathroom. I just turn them down manually when it gets too warm, maybe you could use TRVs.

Only if it is heated

As @Nickfromwales said, don’t worry too much about the engineering, be more concerned about the execution. Is it done according to engineers specification? If in doubt, send pictures to SE for comment.