Bonner

Spoke to my plumber (who is very thorough in everything he does). Never used sand and cement. It used to be tile adhesive but now it’s the cheapest mastic on the shelf (No nails, silicone or even caulk). It’s just a bed to prevent concentrated loading

I have 7015 slate grey, slightly lighter than anthracite, so not so common as muck and happy with it. I agree with @craig, a dark grey would spoil the character. Why don’t you have two colours, light grey (7032?) in the old part and a darker shade in the modern extension? https://enlightenedwindows.co.uk/tag/ral-7032-pebble-grey/

The ones I had in the past were 300W and took about 30mins to reach temperature. Water heated, at least by an ASHP, are not faster to warm up but they always on. My point was relying on a PIR to switch on a towel rad may not work very well as you would be finished before it warms up.

Guessing you have a gas boiler? With an ASHP towel rads never get too hot and are always on, controlled by room and tank thermostats. I did consider electric and agree they could be a better solution for some. They are very slow to warm up so wouldn’t rely on a PIR sensor.

You will have a flow and return from the heat pump and you need a circuit for the towel rads. This just needs to be connected before the control valves. No extra piping just different connection point.

Not exactly run off the hot water tank but tee off the ASHP flow before any control valves. That’s what I have done and it works well because the towel rads come on whenever there is any demand from hot water or UFH. Even in the summer you need a bit of warmth and dry towels in the bathroom. I just turn them down manually when it gets too warm, maybe you could use TRVs.

Only if it is heated

As @Nickfromwales said, don’t worry too much about the engineering, be more concerned about the execution. Is it done according to engineers specification? If in doubt, send pictures to SE for comment.

Thanks, I will have to digest this and see how I can get the best efficiency from the HP

I have just had one installed so too early to recommend. Came with a 7 year warranty for what it’s worth. @JohnMo, might be too late but how do I find out how it should be installed?

You are unlikely to find anything made for the job. I would use some oak blocks cut to the size needed, will quickly weather silver grey.

The point is the research tool rather than the specific information requested. Looks very promising although when I just tried it didn’t have any free capacity. Will try again less busy time.

We have very similar double height space. No internal scaffolding to build the shell (brick and block + trusses). Even the roof windows were installed from outside by the roofer. Got my own tower for insulating, plastering and painting.

Yep, you should try another phone. I had to do this a couple of times with a few trades. Puts them on the back foot but reaction varied from apologies to blatant lies. As others say, at least you know if it’s a communication issue.

Theodolite, which is a challenge to spell or even say, hence the common term ... which I don’t know the origins of thinking about it ...

Bit late to this discussion ... we had similar planning requirement for a barn style house. The architects aim was to ‘echo’ the local vernacular but with a contemporary style so it sits well in the surroundings but doesn’t try to look old, which is often unsuccessful. Also, a fairly simple form which is not expensive to build. This particular style is unlikely to fit where you are but I would be challenging your architect to come up with something more imaginative.

What’s above it? 99.9% sure it’s not load bearing. Just take it down in sections, you will see/feel if it is supporting anything.

I know estate agents get a bad press but a good one should more than cover their fees by achieving the best possible price. Would you be able to coordinate negotiations including ‘best and final’ offers?

Quite sure you can, I think the suggestion was to save cost. A shear wall will probably work out cheaper than a WP

I can’t see any dimension of the return wall but I would say there is an argument that WP’s are not necessary on that side. You will need a SE anyway so see what they come up with.

The architect has probably suggested windposts due to the lack of buttressing by appropriate return walls. I don’t think the end wall qualifies as a buttress even assuming there is a lintel and masonry above the door, it won’t give the same stiffness as a full height wall. Normally they would say windposts or buttressing ‘to be confirmed by structural engineer’. Have the drawings been submitted to building control for approval yet?

I have this one which has been absolutely fine. As accurate as a tape measure and tough enough to be dropped many times. Has silent mode and still on the original battery after nearly 3 years of (occasional) use. Seems to be discontinued on Amazon but similar models available.

Thought I had seen an air valve with a flat flange, 2mm or so thick … but can’t find it atm. Could you not trim your valve flange?

Most induction hobs are 7.5kW / 32A, way over the rating of a 3 pin plug and normal circuits. It needs a dedicated supply off it’s own fuse/breaker.

I worked over in Bantry for a while, it’s a wild and beautiful landscape for sure. You will be building on solid rock or peat? Have you got views from the site? Love to see some photos!