Bonner

What make is it? Does it have a profile to form the ‘handle’? If so, I think they are correct as any spills would tend to flood the inside of the cabinets (drips will still track under the worktop though). However 20mm seems excessive, I think 10mm would be enough.

TPU is a great material and useful to be able to 3D print with it! Just a tip for anyone who does have the kit however.... You can buy O ring cord which can be cut to length and joined with superglue. The only trick is cutting the ends square and getting a smooth joint but you can make a jig to help with that. We use O rings made like this at work for testing pipes, up to about 2000psi (above that the material starts to extrude so you need a metal composite seal)

Lovely job!

Normally a system will leak continuously as it is always pressurised, although the pressure does rise as it warms up, so it is possible that opens up a small leak. You should have a manifold with a pressure gauge somewhere. If there is a leak, even a small one, the pressure will drop over time.

Condensate is clean water and small volume, should be able to go anywhere. I have a small soakaway under the concrete pad.

Very inventive but I assume a temporary fix until the shops open. You shouldn’t need two hands for caulking. Coincidentally, I was just looking for a ‘no drip’ gun since I happened upon a YT video yesterday.

I have a Grant 13kW MCS installed. Can’t vouch for it’s performance yet but the installers seemed to know what they were doing. Two UFH manifolds, radiators and a separate towel rad circuit. Grant supplied package including volumiser. PM me if you want any more info.

Or search for Blum parts

Definitely attend, some people will say things behind your back that they won’t say if you are there. It should be but in reality people have to make decisions and they are subject to being influenced by what other people say. Politics in other words.

That’s good going! I think mine will be twice that but haven’t looked at the bottom line since the main contractor pulled out. Just pushing to finish then add it all up. Not at any cost, we are spending wisely, just can’t predict the final cost. On the other hand, we have no idea what it will be worth in the current market so can’t say if it’s worth it financially or not. Hopefully we will enjoy living in it and look at back the build as a life experience 😬

Double check valve will solve that

Have you thought about a bidet? 🤔

Most people let their cladding naturally weather to silver grey, avoiding the need for regular repainting, have you thought about that? Colours are personal choice and some go better in different locations, you can find inspiration on sites like Pinterest

DIY Kitchens have a useful planner with 3D visualiser which you can easily move things around.

If the drawing states 3000, you are very unlikely to finish at that after building tolerances, plaster etc. If you want 5x600 units, you need to start with 3100.

+1 waste of time, the edges should be butted up to an upstand anyway

Been quoted list less 70% and still 30% more than on line retailers!! My local merchants is normally empty apart from a couple hours in the morning. Meanwhile they have to pay for premises, energy, staff and even a manager, with limited turnover. They will never compete with on line retailers and will only survive as long as customers are willing to pay trades ‘whatever it costs”.

I used Siberian Larch in the end but looked at many alternatives. I would not be comfortable with timber imported from West Africa even if it does claim FSC certified. Apparently not durable in it’s raw form, needs to be thermo-modified which then depends on the consistency of the process. After thermal treatment it is brittle so certain profiles not recommended.

I am thinking about a Samsung, what’s wrong with the electronics, functionality or reliability?

On a previous house, I did about 10 different mixes before I arrived at a close match. Even then the colour changes with age. Try another builders sand (bagged), a bit of Portland cement with the white stuff ...

I went to see a passive house which had only IR heaters. Could work in very low heat demand properties but otherwise I expect expensive to run. Have you done a heat demand calculation? Is this single or double storey? If two storey, you are unlikely to need much heating upstairs. The UFH cost seems very high. And yes, it is likely to put future buyer off.

We also went with dark colour inside (RAL7015) even though the supplier offered white. They contrast the white walls and frames the views.

Thanks, I needed to hear that 😬

Do I really need a SE to calc/spec structural elements of this garage? I could do without the fees unless they can propose a more cost effective construction. The main element is the beam for 5m span, but I was also looking to confirm specifications of the two smaller beams and wall piers. It will be inspected by local BC due to size but they seems quite relaxed about it.

I agree the drawing is not clear but the note states twist strap. It has 90 deg. twist whereas the other type has 90 deg. bend