Bonner

Looks like Mares-tail, quite a bugger to get rid of if it is

+1 for moving the wildlife on for a while. We cleared the site before the planners descended. No conditions were imposed but we have installed bird and bat boxes, wild planting and planning to dig a pond. New houses and gardens can actually increase the diversity of wildlife … after a brief disruption to habitats during the build.

In a hard water area they quickly show limescale (within days!). Scratches to the coating depends on quality and usage so can’t comment.

Never seen this on a drawing. Assuming they are built into the inner leaf of the cavity wall, it is the same as floor joists which are not treated. Just make sure the cavity tray is installed, then it will be fine.

The L shape doesn’t really add much useful room, makes access to the HW cylinder awkward. Better to keep the space for your pantry.

As @Alan Ambrose says, don’t expect to make any profit these days. Plots prices and build costs remain high with resale values generally uncertain. Of course it depends on the specific location and local supply vs. demand.

The screed might not crack but large porcelain tiles will expand at a slightly different rate. I also laid 800mm tiles on Anhydrous screed and wasn’t going to use a mat but decided to in the end. That’s just my experience, @nod is the real expert!

Separate issues; moisture, adhesion and movement. No doubt it will be dry after 3 years. Any remaining laitance will be fairly obvious and easily removed. A decoupling mat is still recommended to allow thermal expansion without cracking the tiles.

No reason for the gap, fill it up!

As above, opening window needed for ventilation but not fire escape

Unless I am mistaken, it’s fine as it is. The bedroom door opens on to the hall. Even though not directly it’s still part of the hall and acceptable fire route.

Ha! No problem keeping an eye on the builders from there 🤠

It says BSP one end, compression the other. Isn’t that the compression end? See if it goes on a comp fitting?

Looks great! Must have been challenging just getting out of the ground, steep site and proximity to neighbour!

More or less what I paid for a Grant 13kW HP MCS installed. I would have installed one myself but no time and benefit of 7 year warranty (for what it’s worth …)

I would go for a standard oak staircase from one of the specialists (Pears, StairBox, TK etc). It will be impossible to match the colours due to natural variations, just look at your flooring picture 😉

Really depends on what can support the landing. Is it butting up to 2 walls or 3? Can you share a drawing?

Just make the slab separated from your house wall/foundation. Don’t forget you need to maintain certain clearance for airflow according to manufacturer’s instructions.

2 x 1 battens would be cheaper and easier, there is little weight to support

Most people will say rebuild because of the complexity and risks involved with extending. Also you will undoubtedly end up with a better home. However you should get a full costing done, don’t rely on m2 rates to make a decision.

I have got this one which has a removable stabilising bar. It is not recommended to use without the bar but on a narrow stair case there’s not much wriggle room … https://www.screwfix.com/p/werner-3-section-4-way-aluminium-combination-ladder-3-51m/503kh

If you’re mixing the same day, just slosh some water around the drum to loosen the remnants and mix it in with new batch.

As above, either lots of exploratory holes or a neat cut out of the PB

IMHO it looks a bit tight. Think circulation space around your table, do people need to squeeze past the window or planter side when those chairs are occupied? I would add another 1m to the width.

+1 for flow screed. You won’t find anything better than standard PIR, all you can do is increase thickness. No chance of raising the finished floor level?