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markc

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Everything posted by markc

  1. markc
    Im presuming they will be connecting into a main. If the main is within your boundary then you can excavate right upto it and just leave a metre or so spare curling up. If the main is in the street or road then you should stop your trench at your boundary and leave sufficient curling up to easily reach the main with some spare.
  2. markc
    50mm water is no problem, yes the bend radii are larger but you will be surprised what it will go around. I dont know of any reason they cant be in the same duct
  3. markc
    +1 on the above
  4. markc
    Got to agree, the meter and billing may well be correct. Admittedly i didnt have variable rates but the APP showed i was using loads more power than i was and at very different times. But when i bill came it was correct to what i reckoned.
  5. markc
    The reduction in power station output is now being bolstered by stand alone generators housed in containers - makes no sense at all. A local company is churning these generators out as fast as they can produce them and tankers are going around constantly re-fueling them. All this waste and burning diesel just so they can say that power stations and being shut down.
  6. markc
    good morning and welcome, loads of info on here if you search the appropriate sections, failing that someone will answer most questions
  7. markc
    Heras will be fine with Ledgers and bracing to stop it falling over or sliding into the trench
  8. markc
    If either of you were to knock down the wall and it would affect the other person, then yes its a party wall.
  9. markc
    Find a sparky and volunteer to give him a hand pulling cables in etc.
  10. markc
    Yes, some timber frame houses have had problems, but look at all the standing Tudor and even older timber frame buildings. Whats on the outside? does it look intact? is the roof ok? most brick houses still have a lot of structural timber in them so dont be afraid, just cautious as with any older building
  11. markc
    @ashthekid can you show us what is below here. I assumed the joists were supported from below and we are looking at Cantilevered ends (continuing over a small corridor or similar) Reading other replies they are thinking the joists are supported by the 4x2`s Studs.
  12. markc
    Agree with Nod. and as the cracks are not straight you may find the paint will just peel off to reveal little and possibly no cracking underneath. (Thick vinyl paint straight onto bare plaster so not keyed in etc will often shrink and crack but peels off really easily ... so theraputic)
  13. markc
    Hello and welcome, looks like a fantastic project
  14. markc
    Hello and welcome. Interesting situation in that you are in effect extending a Shed ... no offence. But my feeling is yes, you will need to look at the whole building and comply
  15. markc
    Ahh, now with the different rates i can see your concern.
  16. markc
    Couldnt agree more, same with consumer units ... historically all metal, some bakalite, then they must be plastic (for safety) and now back to metal
  17. markc
    Generally no, brick and block is usually pretty stable. Maybe the overall design or lack on internal walls etc. making the Arch or Eng err on the safe sade
  18. markc
    No problem changing sizes of water pipe, and as its under the extension unlikely to freeze even with the shallow depth
  19. markc
    Im assuming the ply is specified for bracing. Ply is good in tension and compression, chipboard is only good in compression
  20. markc
    how would you fix the steel down? i cant see the difference
  21. markc
    Im with Octopus and they have been brilliant, Bills are pretty much as i expect. I tried the app but it was ridiculously inaccurate. Showed me using loads of electricity when i wasnt and nothing while running machines in the workshop. It sounds like the actual usage is as you expect but are App watching and that could lead to frustration
  22. markc
    +1 on the above
  23. markc
    I cant see any reason why it has to be ply, you could use Moisture Resistant MDF. Im guessing the boarding is to give some protection to the pipework and distribute floor loads.
  24. markc
    Screwfix SDS drill, Think its called Bayer or something similar (decals wore off long ago) Its indestructible! last week i had 3 127dia holes to put through a 22inch thick brick and stone wall. As the core drill was only 8inches long plus a 6inch drive shaft the big drills wouldnt fit into the hole. The cheapie ran for around 4 hours straight, deep in the hole sucking in brick and stone dust and still wouldnt die.
  25. markc
    A couple of days should be more than enough
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