Ed21

Yeah that's the next step. Pipe is about 1.2m down, so gonna be a lot of fun once leak is found.

Thanks fopr all the replies When the mains water supply is turned off in the road the flow stops, so this is the souce. Water is tuned off at the house and toilet flushed, so no supply from there. House drain is dry. It's a single soil pipe connecting two drains and no way mains water can get in there unless both soil and supply has broken at the same place, which sounds pretty weird.

I've got two drains, one with branches from the house and the other for inspection. The inspection one has clean mains water running through, while the house one is dry, but can hear the same running water (supply at house turned off). Clealy have a leak, but this is plastic drain pipe and any water supply is also plastic. It's never been distiurbed or drilled into etc. and no trees or roots anywhere near. Can't figure out how mains can get in the soil pipe. Anybody got any ideas? Cheers Ed

Titan from Screwfix at £52 - does all that you want and loads of extras. I've got the bigger one which has a seriously good extra and IMO well worth paying for. Saws, sanders, drills etc. all have dust management outlets so it can be connected to a vacumn. On the £100 odd Titans it has a socket to plug in whatever you are using. This creates an auto-start soon as you switch on say a sander that reduces dust a lot. Use it a lot on my table saw.

I've got a large shed roof with corrogated Corilux PVC sheeting that has a few holes and cracks that needs renewing. Not a chance of doing this until next Summer. so looking to patch it for now. Any ideas what might glue or bond to stick two pieces of Corolux together? I've tried PVC solvent glue, but that's no good.

Hi Dave, House has an earth rod and yes the supply from the house connects to the satelite CU with it's own earth rod. Lampost is set in concrete about a metre deep. Ed

Looking for a bit of Earthing advice Got a small dedicated consumer unit (RCD/RCBO) whch is gounded by main supply & earth rod. About a metre away is a metal garden lampost which is grounded via the CU supply. Mate thinks it needs it's own earth rod, but it has it's own earth rod via the nearby CU. Not asking to win an argument, just want to know if the existing setup is compliant. Thanks Ed

Nobody :😀 Just a case of not wanting to pay the EICR twice. I can wait until it's due, can get the work done and just pay for a a single EICR, However wondered if a small amendment wouidn't need a full EICR, which would have meant could get it done now.

Quick question When work is added to a current Electrical Installation Condition Report (EICR), does the EICR renewal date stay the same or does itr run from the date of this additional work?

Cheers for that. I did think about UV, but was unsure as to how long it would last Trying to save some dosh as won't be using it for more than a year tops. How about DPC base layer covered with a green felt topsheet? Would that be any good?

This may well be daft, but got a large sloping ply roof that needs a cover. I also have a couple of large rolls of black DPC. Any reason(s) why it would be stupid to use the DPC as a roof covering?

Yes I'll be doing a test piece and the product is all good branded stuff and solvent based, . I was more concenrtned about longevity and potential hassle when or if it needs a recoat later on.

Hi All, I've got a fair few wooden exterior painted garage/shed doors that have been adapted to fit with repairs additions and have been fully prepped with solvent primer & solvent Crown grey undercoat. The actual finshed colour looks pretty good as is. I've got a 5lt tin of Sadolin Exterior UV barrier Varnish going spare, so any reason why I should'nt just use this on top of the undercoat instead of buying a gloss topcoat ? Ed

I should know this, but a comment has created some doubts !!! Bought a s/hand home office, more a glorified shed, that has a basic framework covered in stippled marine ply and thinner ordinary ply on the inside. Present insulation is a very thin sheet of fibreglass stuck randomly between the timbers. Want to change this out for some PIR, but wondering where the gap should be? PIR tight against the outside marine ply leaving an air gap between PIR and internal ply or PIR tight against internal ply leaving an air gap between outside marine ply an PIR? Which one do you reckon? Any help appreciated. Ed

Sounds good It's 1.3m down and 32mm pipe. Got a raised rim, so a chunk of 100mm EPS close cut all the way around resting on a stop within the hole and some small gravel round the pipe is the way to go. Thanks for that !