Dave Jones

surprised they would work of that pile of rusting scrap. H & S would have a field day.

must be a reason professional kitchens use gas.

you can make one out of a small 250mm inspection chamber, the linear drains dump into it (the outlet is higher than the bottom so the silt can collect). then every couple months take the lid off and clean it out. ready built larger one to give you an idea. https://www.plasticdrainage.co.uk/600mm-catchpit-silt-trap-for-en1401-upvc-drainage-pipe.html

maslow was full of $hit. money not a motivator. what a crock.

permeable wont help you in a flood event, nod is correct on our block drive it runs down it in torrents when it comes down hard. Once it stops whats left drains through. Linear drains do need a lot of maintance especially downhill ones as they fill up with crap quickly. Have a silt catcher between them and the soakaway/sewer so its easy to get them unblocked.

klober do a good range https://klober.co.uk/product-listing/dry-verge-and-valleys

cil is supposed to be paid up front before the build starts...

the pencil line on a 1 in 100 drawing is a good 100mm on the ground.

i think he means I beams

two pronged approach needed. 1. try and move the water that wants to make its way into your garage around it and away, liner drains etc. 2. You need a vertical cavity tray all the way round to the height of the wall next door, so any water penetrating the outside skin cannot get any further. As its block and render it wouldnt be a massive job to sort.

not a fan of fascia or soffets. I like to see rafter feet and brickwork to the top. dry verge compliments it very nicely, you can get nice straigh line systems that look really good and of course no muck to repoint once the frost gets at it.

get hold of your local counciller, MP and portfolio holder for planning. Sooner the whole planning process is privatised the better.

not uncommon in houses of that era for internal walls to be bricked straight onto floorboards. Have a look on youtube gosforth handyman he has exactly this issue. massive cracks as the wall was built on wood!

small doors 2 or 3 sections and off the shelf lintels are ok but personally i would also use an beam or rsj with an 8mm welded bottom plate as when the building settles/moves they will pinch usually in the middle.

builders should be getting used to this now as reverse vat rules are live.

Make a list of your concerns and ring them (building control)and ask them to come out, hows relations with the builder as there could be a fair bit of correcting work.

pumped chambers are easy to fit and maintain, had one in previous house. infinitely better to be on mains sewer. £1300 quid mark https://www.tanksforeverything.co.uk/waste-water/pump-chambers-for-sewage-or-effluent-p/sewage-pump-chambers-for-domestic-or-commercial-installations-p/harlequin-1100-litre-sewage-pump-station-1100psv1-single-pump-chamber

https://tricoya.com/ Rob Clevett on youtube left some underwater for a month and it didnt swell.

not to add more to your hassle, but you have a cold roof. These have to breath to stop them sweating and getting mould buildup especially in very humid areas like kitchens. Normally this is done by leaving a minimum 50mm gap between the tiles and insulation with ventialtion at the ridge and gutter. Has this extension had any checks from building control ?

thought so, they have pulled the membrane into the inside so that water can run in should it find its way onto it. The velux instructions state this has to be stapled outside. check 30 seconds in on this velux window fitting vid from velux

the lindab gutter looks really good, there automatic leaf dumpers for the downpipes are brilliant.

there are different velux flasing kits for different profile tiles, you need the flat one. The tiles sit on a foam strip around the window to seal against wind blow rain/debris. lead flashing is pretty poor finish with it being out of level, why did they hammer it on the pebbledash ? They could sort that easily. The roof pitch looks like it could have benefitted from the wall plate being 6" lower so the lead didn't hit the bottom of the window frame. I'm a fan of dry verge, maintenance free. You need something like this https://klober.co.uk/product/pitched-roofing/dry-verge-and-valleys/uni-line-continuous-dry-verge-t-strip Black will contrast well and doesnt show the dirt like white fascia. The middle velux has what looks to be a sliver of loose tile at the top, id want that mechanically fixed preferably with a tile specific clip. Can we see the ceiling side or has it been boarded ?

7n block. It will be specified by the block and beam designer on their drawing which building control will need to see.

it very well may be easier than you think. the slab may well be able to be pulled up by a digger relatively easily without hammering. Pick a wet day to keep dust and smoke down and burn it as you demolish. Good digger man would have the lot done in a day.