Dave Jones

air nailer here. cheaper, lighter and the nails a lot cheaper in coils. run mine off a cordless dewalt compressor.

7 weeks to validate ours. I involved the councillor and MP. Both were useless. I did ask the portfolio holder for planning why he hasnt sacked the head of planning for gross misconduct. no reply. There was talk a couple years ago of privatising the planning process to take it out of the hands of councils, needs to be looked at again.

avoid timber frame, costly, lower build quality than block and brick and bad for the environment.

100mm isnt enough fall over 4.8m you need min 1:40 to comply with building regs.

parapet done right look really good, depending on the size of it you may need two outlets for the water to comply with building regs. Good call going for a warm room, i'd pay the extra and buy tapered insulation so no buggering about with furring strips. It's not much more expensive and kingspan plan it out with crossfalls etc. Make sure you have at least 150mm from the rubber to the underside of the copers and lap the rubber right up tight to them. The copers need to overhang both sides of the parapet and have a drip groove underneath both sides to shed the water. Spend the money and get a really good vapour barrier something like Alutrix.

see if the farmer will let you bury the pipe in his field the other side of the verge. Even if you drop him £5k cash for the effort still be quids in.

Once you have dug it out you will have an idea from the soil you need to remove. Probably best to get a man with a digger in to do the lot in a day.

obviously not used the factory braced ones.

not at dpc level.

buy them ready made, the brickies will thank you as they wont have to level up the sides of the windows. They are dirt cheap and are held in with straps built into the brick courses.

need to make sure you leave 50mm gap from the top of the insulation to the underside of the breathable membrane under the tiles. Many make the mistake of pushing the insulation between the rafters as high as it will go which is wrong and can lead to issues.

a cold roof with zero ventilation. good luck breathing in all the mold spores that will inevitably grow.

dig down 250mm min, 150mm of type 1 compacted followed by the finish of your choice. as for slope follow the lay of the land and flatten out / retain anywhere where it will ground out the car.

so not a real cost then.

just be sure you have the completion cert in hand before you move in otherwise its still a building site and they may not pay out.

sorry looks awful. electric toilet with a visible cistern... not my cup of tea at all.

Assuming you have vehicle access then a 3 tonner can ream 3m no problem

Just be aware of creating a cold roof with with no ventilation can cause problems

I use https://subframes.co.uk/ not only do they provide insulation to to the reveals more importantly they are square which means you aren’t relying on the Brickie’s 4 foot level for door openings.

Can’t see a tunnel but if there is and a fire engine can’t get through it I can’t see how building control can sign it off as It won’t comply with fire regs.

Not really. Councils have to offer pre application advice sone even make a small charge. Nothing stopping a call to a planning officer and simply asking the question as well .if you can get through!

Your relying more a land registry plan to define a boundary? Oh dear. goid luck !

all depends on if you will be staying in the house long term or selling. If selling don't go eco £££££ crazy you wont get a return out of it. Money better spent on tangebale items, kitchens, bathrooms, doors etc will get you more bang for your ££

nah. 75mm semi dry screed with fibres and joins wont crack. Put it with a laser is best floor you can have.

just stagger them, use the offcut as a starter on the next row. You have to leave an expansion gap were boards butt up and they both need to land on the joist (doubler).