PeterW

Buffer can go in the same place the inside box goes now - and the whole point is that it stops the units cycling so much. I would find a space and let them crack on

Building size ..? Number of wet rooms..? Need a bit more to go on

At 12m long, that roof is going to need either some serious steelwork at the apex to support the ridge, or you’re going to need to have something on show unless you use a scissor truss. I would start with a discussion with your SEng and then get them to give you options - that is going to need some serious design work to make it look how you want.

You won’t notice the 20mm or whatever, you will forever notice the slight chip or line in the stone where he’s made good when it is removed. My current worktop is 890, tomorrow it will be 905.. will I notice ..? Unlikely.

@Russdl which one did you change ..? The top isolator or the red isolator ..?

No, as it doesn’t take into consideration the flow through the heat source. You need the design flows. What does the blue pump go to ..? What circuit ..? UPM3 will do 12 circuits and over 1,000m of pipe with ease - have you changed anything else ..?

Inspection camera and drill a 10mm hole in a window reveal (easier to repair and hide..) and see what is behind. Pretty sure it will be something like a steel or timber frame and insulation within it - lots were done like this.

That isn’t that many when an average 2 storey 150sqm house uses close on to 10,000 facing bricks. To put it in context, Cawarden Reclaim hold over 1m bricks in stock … and Ibstock hold 7m on the site near me ! @nod have you got a brick in mind or approved ..?

Anthracite UPVC..?? 0.7 triple glazed in anthracite / white internal at £650 or so https://www.modernupvcwindows.co.uk/upvc-door-designer.php?t=1-0-0&w=900&h=2100&h0=900&v0=1250&v1=820&cill=150&c=131&x=000032T&pr=3&p0=00T2&p1=T003

Cracking job well done ! Fly through would be good too. And the forum profanity filter takes most things out … so feel free to stick around and pass on some of the experience

where does the £1000 come from..? You can do it yourself, you just need to use the letter template from gov.uk and they reply with the response and job done. If they don’t agree it’s only then when you need surveyors etc

Think Scotland have a rule on it but can’t remember anything from the guidance in the BStd without looking (but it is only guidance not a regulation at that point)

Self Levelling compound comes in different flavours - some are better for bulking up areas and some are better at feathering out to nothing. If you are laying parquet then it needs to be broadly level but don’t worry too much as the glue will make up some of the gaps and your sanding will take some of the edges off. Do you have any heating in the slab or not ..?? When you’ve decided what you need to do, then you need to make sure the floor is primed if it’s really dusty and then get it wet through if you want it to flow. It won’t flow if the floor is dry, and you probably want 20% more water in the mix than the bags say as otherwise it barely flows.

Nothing to do with planning ..! It’s a building regs issue so don’t even bother including it in any plans. When you get planning, you’ll need to work out where to site a pump station (usually between 12-1600 litres depending on the number of bedrooms/WCs) and then that pumps to a chamber that is above the sewer level and gravity takes over. The tank needs to be minimum 3m from a house IIRC. Where in the UK are you..?

A 2 post in a 3-4m span with the point loads near the edges will be fine on 150mm or less, move to putting it in the middle of what becomes a 7x6 slab and the concrete starts to react differently so you really do need to consider point loads as @Roger440 is eluding to. For any large span over 6x6m with unknown or variable point loads it’s fairly common to up the slab to 150mm with mesh or even 200mm as it means you can put anything anywhere. I’ve put the spare 150mm PIR under the slab in ours and ended up with pretty much 200mm of concrete in the centre and 350mm around the edges but it does hold its temperature well ..!

I doubt you’ll get planning for this in a residential area as it is borderline industrial unit size - you may need to start digging down to get the roofline down to begin with. Kroftman do a decent range of buildings that may be of interest but you’ll need to do some work to get them in under budget. Their 7x8 would set you back around £24k delivered, and then it’s a weekend job to build it for a team of 4. Probably talking around 10 cube of concrete for foundations, same for a 150mm slab and then add mesh and thickening for your lifts etc so your £3k isn’t far off. Dig out is half a day for a decent driver and you’ve got space to lose the soil on an acre. By the time you’ve added a mezzanine and walls for that plus electrics etc, you will be at your £35k. Any spare money, I would be putting solar on the roof and using it as a big array.

Why not go 3 phase at that point and go 4x16 and utilize the phases differently ..?? Easier than chucking 50mm around and cheaper too.

Doors are £5-700 ish, so that makes it about £1k per window fitted which seems a bit steep tbh. And that U-value is crap as you can get 1.2 easily these days

Min 750mm deep, use 75mm corrugated black duct for at least 1m either side and make sure it’s got the proper tape across the whole area. Better would be to cast the footing for the wall so it’s visible from the outset or at least a 2m section where this is. 100m is a long run though - will this become permanent ..?

It never happens. If it does, you’ve got a failure in the roof tiles, no membrane, incorrect falls, or gravity not working as if the gutter fills up it overflows over the front …

You could use 50mm EPS and cut it with a hot wire - not difficult to make

EPS or PIR ..? Thickness ..??

So there will be no insulation under it as you say, no way it will be suitable for UFH so discount it now unless you’re taking up the floor. That is ok - assuming you want supply only you can get this at half the price or less that Nu-Heat have quoted you. What about everything else you need ..?? ASHP will need a hot water tank (unvented cylinder etc) as a gas combo doesn’t. It could be substantially more than you think. Make the rads 25% larger as the new ASHP flow temps are getting higher. I doubt there is much by way of cavity wall insulation so why not line all the external walls with insulation or insulated plasterboard and you can bury the pipe runs in this - you will need to sort insulation overall as these houses were not built to be warm ..!

@Grian I think you need to approach this from the “how small can we make it” approach and think comfy caravan as a starting point and only add size if it adds significant value. I’ve been hunting through my links and bookmarks as I am sure I have some links to a beautiful teardrop shaped cabin in Canada that has to survive wind and snow but they have given it near 180° panoramic views and the whole lot was made offsite using 8x2 modules that were bolted together on site. They did some clever stuff with a porch so that the inside was kept clean (and warm) and also additional storage. Same thing with doors that open out, all things that save space, and sliding or pocket doors on bathrooms etc. The other benefit of a teardrop or triangular shape is that it “opens up” a view, and you can use the small space for WC/shower and then make the front space more open plan and have the sofa / bed / living space. Adding in lots of light to the front and you create some clever open spaces. One consideration that you could make (assuming you have decent water pressure) is to use a small unvented cylinder. You can then use immersions to heat it, and even use a solar panel or two as a power source.

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