PeterW

Controller isn’t seeing the stats - are they wired or wireless ..? If wireless, start by changing the batteries in the stats and check that by manually changing the status of the heating (do these show sun/moon etc..??) and see if they trigger after that.

Look like old Modern Smooth greys that have weathered - if you’ve only got 100 you’ll probably end up giving them away but there are roofers who sometimes buy them to do patch jobs.

Zilmet are a decent brand - it’s lasted 13 years so that’s good !

If you take the pressure out of the system and only remove the one component you may be able to swap it without too much hassle.

Not really viable as the saving is about £1 /day and the payback is around 12-14 years

Why do you think the pressure vessel is leaking ..? And no, not possible to change that without at least a partial drain down.

I’ll take some photos of both brown (in oak / meranti doors) and white in painted FD30 and see if you think that’s the same - you cannot see them unless you go looking.

Speak to BCO and get FD30 doors with 8mm trimmable sides then rout the doors. You can get an intumescent strip cutter from Trend, takes 5 mins.

But 50mm doesn’t meet building regs however well or badly it’s been fitted !! So there must be some drawings or spec that they are following to meet regs ..? TBH I would be going down the internal insulated plasterboard route.

sorry I’m slightly lost here. If the roof isn’t on, do you mean this is a new build extension ..? If so, you can’t have met building regs with a 50/50 insulation and cavity build up so how is this being signed off ..?? Or are you saying the builder has cocked up with the insulation levels ..?

No the glass will be unsafe - I wouldn’t trust the sheet glass to that especially with someone who may lean against it. Trick is to carefully drill the holes for the screen in the grout crosses between tiles and then you can grout it over if you remove it ans you’ll barely notice.

Yep - give PS Glass a call - they will have what you need https://www.psglassfittings.co.uk/product/shower-u-channels-for-10mm-glass/

Stand the glass on 2 or 3 5mm spacers and tape the floor and the glass - then put clear CT1 between the spacers, tool it and let it cure for 24 hours. Pull the spacers and then fill the gaps, tool it and then take the tape off.

But for a significant loss in performance and wouldn’t meet building regs. You need at least 250mm of EPS to replace 150mm of PIR

See if you can get the ones with an infil that you remove after as cleaning plaster and paint out of them is a pain and the ones I’ve seen used are easily scratched. Also make sure they are perfectly level with the surface they are shining on to - get them slightly off and it shows ..!

Ok so is the storage tank very large and away from the main property ..? You’re going to need something like a multi stage CH4-50 pump to get the pressure and flow, I’d even consider a tandem set up so you have redundancy. Header tanks are pointless as you won’t get the pressure. https://www.anchorpumps.com/stuart-turner-ch-4-50-5-bar-centrifugal-multi-stage-booster-pump-240v

Generous tanks and shower controls won’t get away from the laws of physics…! Even with an 8l/min flow to a shower, you’ll need heading toward 50 litres a minute on your mains supply. That is heading toward hydrant levels of flow - what has your water provider said about connections ..? Assuming here you’re not having a 22mm water meter ..?! The other issue will be recovery rate and storage - ASHP doesn’t give you lots of rapid heat so you need to oversize. As this has variable usage patterns then I would domino the tanks using two or three smaller tanks - gives you flexibility and you’re not heating 6-900 litres of water when you don’t need to. I would go with three 300 or 400 litre Telford Heat Pump UVCs in a domino set up, but get them upgraded to 32mm cold flow and hot outlets. I would also get the first with twin immersions - this is your “daily” tank so you need to be able to boost it. A hot return will be needed but I think you may have to return it to lower than the top of first tank so a custom tank connector would need to be specified. Control wise, I would put a 12kW ASHP into the set and use diverters to alter the return flow - you’ll need to manually switch these to give you the tank volume so would also suggest getting industrial valves that don’t have a hold open current. Not expensive but means you don’t end up munching synchro motors. This needs a fair amount of space - how much have you got planned for the plant room ..??

All in use at the same time ..???

What’s the use of the building in totality ..? How many bathrooms / showers etc ..?

Right - first off use Hep2O and there are no joints under the floor. No point in doing that - just creates a problem later down the line. You may need to look at how you maintain ventilation under the existing floor if you’re blocking any air bricks.

10mm masonry bit, cheap garden spray, box of gun foam and a decent gun and some patience ..! Drill holes about 150mm apart at probably 100mm from the timber line, then get the sprayer lance in the hole and give a decent squirt of water into the cavity. Follow with the foam gun and don’t be shy with the pressure and you’ll start to create an insulated line along the ridge as the foam creates a barrier. Other option is to get one of the blown bead installers to fill the whole wall - may not be that cheap though for such a small wall.

Internals don’t count as planning doesn’t care. Back windows - if they are visible - may need full planning.

How much “moving” are we talking .?? Less than 250mm then don’t worry, anything else could be a non material amendment or a full plans application depending on the scale of the changes.

yeh they don’t - you can push it up tight and see if it will clip onto the outlet or just cut a short length of downpipe and solvent weld it to the running outlet and then fit the socket accordingly.

Agree about the markets being separate but don’t agree on quality. I do snags on new builds that the bricklaying is appalling and you can see where multiple gangs have done different parts, and their quality is also variable ! The brick gangs round here are pretty poor overall - I saw 3 packs of facing bricks laying in mud on a site a few weeks ago - mentioned it to the site manager who said in one breath there was a brick shortage, and then said they would get scooped up and put in a skip as waste … apparently one of the brickies got bored waiting for some bricks to be moved so tried with the telehandler himself ..! Flip side is I’ve got a 60 year old brickie who refuses to do the new build sites as they want quantity not quality, but his day rate is such that even when I ask for “sloping dentil finish using reclaims” he goes ‘OK’ and the finish is perfection - doesn’t cost me much more and tbh what I’m paying is what he wants and is always reasonable. When he’s on blocks he can definitely keep up with the younger ones yet will usually point all joints where others leave them flush. I think it’s horses for courses and on a self build having someone a little slower does mean you can adjust and make decisions along the way, which is good if you’re not well versed in the industry.